Connecting a bathroom radiator, what PP pipes should you choose?

Hello, I would like to install a heater in my bathroom. He was never there so I would have to plug in the pipes. I want to use PP pipes for connection, but I don't know what to choose.

best regards

A radiator PP-R stabi 16mm or 20mm is sufficient for the radiator. I recommend 20mm for mechanical reasons. For this, place pipes in a conduit or lagging if they are forged into a wall, floor.

the entire connection is very flat near the furnace as well as the main pipes. All I have to do is cut the inlet and outlet pipes and connect tees and pipes about 50cm long, then the valves and radiator. Do these tubes require a scraper or not? I would like to use ones that do not need a scraper.

16mm aluminum stabi usually requires a scraper and you can buy 20 without scraping. Just buy a stabi pipe with a non-fiberglass aluminum insert.

From what I read, each with an aluminum insert needs a scraper so now I don't know if aluminum or fiberglass, and why can't it be fiber?

For years, he has been using stabi sigma or kalde pipes and you do not need any scraper, because the aluminum is inside, not outside. In thin 16 mm it is physically difficult to do due to the wall thickness and there is often aluminum on top of the pipe.

Aaaa or scraper is needed when the alum cover is on top? Do I also have any connectors to choose for these pipes or just that they will be fi 20?

Added after 5 [minutes]:

And why can't it be in fiberglass only with aluminum?

andrzej lukaszewicz - what are you nonsense you write !!! Each PPR pipe stabilized aluminum must first be machined with a tool called a scraper. First, you strip the aluminum layer with the outer material to the length of the weld, then the welding process takes place and the last to cool down. All pipe diameters are made of aluminum, regardless of the manufacturer, i.e. from 16 to 110 mm, they must first be machined with the appropriate diameter with a stripper.
Well, but I've already seen such miracles that shock:
- Threaded PPR pipes and fittings screwed into tow (yes, those for welding).
- PPR pipes connected to the GEBO system (this system for connecting without threaded steel).
- ALU-PEX pipes welded to the PPR knees.
- PE-RT pipes (for water and garden connections) welded with PPR fittings in the entire residential house on the water and central heating
I suspect that it was done by people with very low knowledge about the implementation of hydraulic installations.
Once again, aluminum stabi pipes must be scraped off with a scraper, stabi glass pipes (stabilized with various fibers depending on the manufacturer) are welded immediately after cutting without tearing like ordinary pipes without stabilization.

Thank you for your help so I would have to buy the best stabi but with fiberglass? Is it possible without stabi? As I wrote earlier, I would like to connect a bathroom radiator on them. If I buy the right tube, should I also choose fittings somehow, does it matter?

Added after 6 [minutes]:

ziomekorko I will add that from a store I got a message that the pipe "WELDING pipe 20mm STABI aluminum PN25" does not require a scraper ... But PN25 is probably not there?

ziomekorko wrote:

andrzej lukaszewicz - what are you nonsense you write !!! Each PPR pipe stabilized aluminum must first be machined with a tool called a scraper. First, you strip the aluminum layer with the outer material to the length of the weld, then the welding process takes place and the last to cool down. All pipe diameters are made of aluminum, regardless of the manufacturer, i.e. from 16 to 110 mm, they must first be machined with the appropriate diameter with a stripper.

Recently, I made water at home - I dumped steel pipes and made PP. I used Romanian stabi pipes for hot water. Aluminum inside, no stripping required. I did "20" and "25"

Added after 7 [minutes]:

ziomekorko wrote:

Once again, aluminum stabi pipes must be scraped off

And once more: do not have to be ripped off if the aluminum is inside (between layers)

But as far as I know, PN25 is not only PN10,16 and 20.
As for fittings or do they have to be special for each pipe? As far as the diameter is concerned, I know that for pipe fi 20 there must be a fitting fi 20. And when buying such a pipe, look at the thickness? Because I also saw fi 20 but it's of different thicknesses.

sebaele22 wrote:

But as far as I know, PN25 is not there

And what is that?
Bought in a store in Poland.
Show white and say black.

Added after 5 [minutes]:

sebaele22 wrote:

WELDING pipe 20mm STABI aluminum PN25 "does not require a scraper

sebaele22 wrote:

But PN25 I think there is no such thing anymore?

That's what I saw at your place .
And there is no PN 25 http://www.pipelife.com/media/pl/p DOWN/k_PP-R_Pipelife.pdf
As for these connectors to buy some special or no matter if it was fi 20?

From what they told me there are no special ones, but it was not a big store and they could be wrong. I did ordinary. The connectors are thick, so they probably do not require additional stabilization, but choose the uniform ones because I saw them and those on the knees (arches) were thinner than on a straight section (what is welding).

Added after 18 [minutes]:

And here it is: http://www.sigmali.pl/system-sigma-li-pp-r/rury-pp-r/rura-stabi-pn-25

Wawrzyniec - I assure you that SIGMALI does not produce such pipes as you showed in the picture. Anyway, you have the answer to one of them where this invention comes from and you know it, just do a test laboratory in your home is it good? Time will tell. I asked my friends plumbers and wholesalers from the installation industry in Wroclaw and no one has heard about it and certainly does not trade. I recently made installations on SIGMALI stabi pipes in diameters 40-75 mm and it was necessary to scrape on each diameter.
Out of curiosity I will say that not long ago I tried another invention with a sanitaire - copper fittings joined with soft solder. On ten knees purchased online and soldering them according to the attached instructions seven leaks. So I thank inventions of unknown origin. I prefer to stick to old, proven materials and technologies.

ziomekorko wrote:

Wawrzyniec - I assure you that SIGMALI does not produce such pipes as you showed in the picture

You don't have to reassure me because I know that. Stabi pipes are available for these and sigmals. Sigmals have to be ripped off. Interestingly, the store has fittings only from sigmals, and regular and stabo pipes from sigmals and Romanian stabos (more expensive than sigmals). Installers prefer Romanian because the job goes faster (no need to rip off).

Added after 1 [minutes]:

ziomekorko wrote:

copper fittings bonded with soft solder

I haven't met that.

ziomekorko wrote:

andrzej lukaszewicz - what are you nonsense you write !!! Each PPR pipe stabilized aluminum must first be machined with a tool called a scraper. First, you strip the aluminum layer with the outer material to the length of the weld, then the welding process takes place and the last to cool down. All pipe diameters are made of aluminum, regardless of the manufacturer, i.e. from 16 to 110 mm, they must first be machined with the appropriate diameter with a stripper.

Restrain yourself with such opinions because you still have a lot to see and learn as you can see.
Just because you use aluminum on top does not mean that there are no others: aluminum between layers.
Col. @Wawrzyniec showed on one of the photos how it looks.
So much for the subject. Works for 20 minutes and writing for an hour.

Hello again, the heater is connected. I had to buy pipes with a layer of aluminum on top because they were on supply and return, for this I bought a scraper. As for connection, I can honestly say that I did it for the first time, everything is tight but I am afraid that it may go off after a while. Scraping is terrible because sometimes it scrapes more than just the aluminum layer and the pipe is slightly thinner. I would like to ask if such connections on connectors must be straight? I am asking because on some connections I had to gently curve so that the leads on the heater would fold.

A slight deviation will not cause leaks, only a poor visual effect. Do not worry about the welds (after scraping), because after welding PP is a uniform material and is thickened with an external fitting. If you cut such a weld, you can't see where the joining was.

Thanks and can you gently stretch, bend etc. after welding?