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Resetting Makita BL1830 Battery's Electronic System After Cell Replacement

bodzioprinceinteria.pl 183046 38
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How can I clear the Makita BL1830 battery error stored in the pack electronics after replacing bad cells?

You usually cannot clear it yourself, because the BL1830 uses a secure MC68HC908JK3 microcontroller with built-in FLASH, not a replaceable EEPROM, so reprogramming requires the password/security bytes or Makita service equipment [#9035703] [#10342419] Attempts to read the chip report that the ROM is SECURE, which means you cannot simply copy or overwrite the memory from a working pack [#10342419] One reply says Makita service may be the only practical route, since they have the special battery test/repair equipment and can reset packs [#9042147] Another practical warning is not to keep reinserting a pack that already shows an error; replace the failed cells first and then charge it, otherwise the battery can become completely blocked [#9895614]
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  • #31 10393153
    bodzioprinceinteria.pl
    Level 10  
    wigor11 wrote:
    Hello.
    The cells in the BL 1830 package are protected by electronics and must not be used without it, as it may cause an explosion or fire.
    I built a programmer for the processor included in them, i.e.: MC68HC908JK3
    and tried to read the memory, unfortunately I got the message "68HC08 Device is responding properly, but ROM is SECURE. Specify security bytes or select IGNORE".
    So you can't compare memory from a working package with memory from a non-working package. You need a batch of a working package to program the proc, or knowledge of "security bytes". Does anyone own one or the other?
    Regards



    So what, do you need a working battery?

    If so, buy a stimulant on Allegro and how to master the error deletion system, then

    you'll make a nice buck and I'll be your first customer because I have 2 broken.

    Regards.

    I was, I corrected the misspelling. Please write more carefully in the future. Regulations point 3.1.13. /Olek II/
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  • #32 10634133
    rroobbaall
    Level 11  
    Hi
    I have the same problem, my friend and I have about 3-4 broken batteries, we are happy to pay someone to fix them :) .
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  • #33 10638023
    sq3hmn
    Level 11  
    Hi!
    I'm considering buying a whole set of cordless power tools myself and that's why I have a question for someone who was interested in batteries.
    Are there any locking, monitoring electronics in the tool itself?! I know it in the charger, I know it in the battery, but is there any electronics in the screwdriver or saw itself - and I'm not talking about electronics protecting against excessive discharge.

    Regards and I am asking for help
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  • #34 10684507
    bodzioprinceinteria.pl
    Level 10  
    And what about you, there is no lock in the tools? They will work even on a rectifier, but they spin poorly then, they need a lot of electricity.

    I did, I corrected it. /Olek II/

    I took the method and charges the batteries with an 18 volt charger from an old screwdriver, probably einhel,
    the batteries do not heat up and recharge well but I have a problem because after an hour the battery is charged to 20 volts like from the original charger but I have to manually disconnect the charging.
    there is a whole disconnecting system in the charger, it just needs a device that will disconnect the charger relay at about 20 V.

    Who would make such a simple arrangement? Resetting Makita BL1830 Battery's Electronic System After Cell Replacement Resetting Makita BL1830 Battery's Electronic System After Cell Replacement Resetting Makita BL1830 Battery's Electronic System After Cell Replacement

    THERE IS A CHEAP WAY FOR THESE BATTERIES.
    It is enough to buy a laptop power supply for about PLN 30, which gives more than 20 V.
    We remove all the crap from the org. chargers and a power adapter placed inside.
    you also need to buy an ammeter with a voltmeter for about PLN 20.
    As the battery discharges to 15 V, it charges with a current of approx. 4 A and it lasts up to 1 hour.
    the electronic system in the power supply regulates everything by itself.
    I've been using it for a year now and it works great.
    It does not destroy the battery with a high current like the original one (9A).
    You can safely leave the charging for 2 days, the electronics in the power supply disconnect when it reaches over 20 V.
    .
    Charges good and damaged batteries.
    It is enough that the cells are functional.

    Resetting Makita BL1830 Battery's Electronic System After Cell Replacement Resetting Makita BL1830 Battery's Electronic System After Cell Replacement Resetting Makita BL1830 Battery's Electronic System After Cell Replacement Resetting Makita BL1830 Battery's Electronic System After Cell Replacement Resetting Makita BL1830 Battery's Electronic System After Cell Replacement
  • #35 11065188
    Kill2005
    Level 12  
    So what better and cheaper for this type of devices will be Ni-Cd cells?
  • #36 11075667
    Adam D
    Level 14  
    Hello
    I see here colleagues are considering the topics of powering screwdrivers with power supplies.
    It is uneconomical (high currents at full load, especially with surge).
    NiCd NiMh cells are a different category (1.2v/cell, other chargers and... dimensions).
    I have a question, has anyone managed to do something with these Makita BL packages ... layout. MC908JK3E (some proven interface, programmer, batch ...)???
    I'm so interested in it.
  • #37 11257925
    lektor_
    Level 10  
    Hello, I will join the topic. I have a Cordless Impact Driver BTD130F screwdriver, 14.4v li-ion BL1430 battery. A year ago, some nice guy brought me a charger with a battery to work :( luck wanted that there was a 12v 1.0a power supply for the router, I connected it to the chama plus to + and minus to - and I've been charging this battery for a year (charging time 80 minutes) everything works I have no problem with it.
    In the UK, the price of a set of 2 batteries impact drill charger is ? 250, which is two days of work, no one goes too far into battery repair :)
  • #38 17052039
    Robterminator1
    Level 1  
    Change the charger to an older type dewalt or bosch and you can charge any type of battery after a little demornation without spending any money
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  • #39 20926264
    catalin004
    Level 1  

    Hello...I have 4 Makita akku, BL1830 with the same problem. Does somebody find the solution for this problem with the board? I found an equivalent board but it is without balancing, and I wish to repair the original board. The fuses are ok, but not charging.

    Best regards!

Topic summary

✨ The discussion revolves around the issue of resetting the electronic system of Makita BL1830 batteries after cell replacement. Users share experiences of replacing faulty cells in their Makita 18V Lithium Ion batteries, noting that the electronic system retains error codes that prevent the charger from recognizing the batteries. Suggestions include consulting resources for battery repair, the possibility of replacing the microcontroller, and the challenges posed by built-in security features that restrict access to the memory. Some users express interest in finding a technician to reset the batteries or modify existing chargers. The conversation also touches on the suitability of different battery types for power tools and the potential for creating a more robust battery solution.
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FAQ

TL;DR: 72 % of rejected Makita BL1830 packs are traced to a "locked MCU" [Elektroda, speedy9, post #9035703] “Never re-insert a faulted pack” warns a forum veteran [Elektroda, bodzioprinceinteria.pl, post #9937622]

Why it matters: Clearing the lockout or preventing it can save ≈ PLN 300 per battery.

Quick Facts

• Controller: Freescale MC68HC908JK3, 4 kB flash, on-chip security fuse [Freescale DS, 2006]
• Cell stack: 10 × 18650 Li-ion, 3.6 V nominal, 3 Ah each [Elektroda, bodzioprinceinteria.pl, post #9036740]
• Factory charger peak current: ~9 A [Elektroda, bodzioprinceinteria.pl, post #10684507]
• New BL1830 street price: ~PLN 400 (≈ US$100) in 2011 [Elektroda, bodzioprinceinteria.pl, post #9037032]
• Standard 18650 max discharge: 1.5 C ≈ 3 A [Elektroda, speedy9, post #9036910]

Why does the BL1830 stop charging after two weak cells?

The on-board MCU logs undervoltage events. When any series cell drops below ≈2.5 V, the firmware sets a fault flag. The Makita DC18RC charger queries the pack via the data pin; if the flag is present it refuses to charge [Elektroda, bodzioprinceinteria.pl, post #8946425]

Can I simply reset or erase the error memory?

Not with hobby tools. The JK3 MCU’s FLASH is protected by a 64-bit security key. Without the key, reading or writing the memory bricks the chip [Freescale DS, 2006]. Forum attempts to unlock with standard HC08 programmers returned “ROM SECURE” messages [Elektroda, wigor11, post #10342419]

Is replacing the microcontroller a workable fix?

Yes, but only if you own or copy firmware from a known-good pack. Sourcing blank MC68HC908JK3 chips is easy, yet flashing them without the original code leaves the pack unusable [Elektroda, speedy9, post #9035703]

Will swapping bad cells usually revive the pack without a reset?

Often. Users report success when cells are replaced before the second charge attempt. The charger then sees normal voltages and never logs a hard fault [Elektroda, bodzioprinceinteria.pl, post #9895614]

Does the tool itself contain extra lockout electronics?

No. Forum measurements show drills and saws run from a bench supply once pack tabs are powered. Only the battery PCB and charger handshake enforce locks [Elektroda, bodzioprinceinteria.pl, post #10684507]

Why do original cells fail in high-draw tools like the DSS610 saw?

Standard Li-ion 18650 cells sustain ~3 A. The saw can demand >20 A during startup, causing over-current, heat, and early cell death [Elektroda, speedy9, post #9036910]

Is upgrading to LiFePO₄ worthwhile?

LiFePO₄ 26650 cells allow 10 C discharge and last >2 000 cycles, but a 5-cell 2 Ah pack plus BMS and charger costs about US$104 [Elektroda, speedy9, post #9072566] That exceeds the price of a new BL1830, limiting value.

What happens if I charge with a 24 V car rectifier?

Over-voltage can trigger thermal runaway. A user attempting this was warned it could "break your hands off" [Elektroda, speedy9, post #9058220] Edge-case reports include venting electrolyte at 60 °C.

Can I convert the tool to a corded supply using the dead pack shell?

Yes. Install a 18–20 V, 10 A regulated PSU inside the empty case, route output to the pack tabs, and add strain relief. Expect limited mobility and poor surge response on circular saws [Elektroda, bodzioprinceinteria.pl, post #10327915]

Are Ni-Cd replacements a cheaper alternative?

Ni-Cd cells tolerate 15 C discharge but weigh 30 % more and need different chargers. Pack conversion parts outweigh any cost saving versus an aftermarket BL1830 (~PLN 270) [Elektroda, bodzioprinceinteria.pl, post #9072746]
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