Resetting Makita BL1830 Battery's Electronic System After Cell Replacement

Hello.

I have 2 broken Makita 18V Lithium Ion batteries, Bl1830

In these batteries, usually 2 out of 10 cells fail.

with 2 broken batteries, you can easily replace 2 cells.

The problem is that the battery has an electronic system that saves in memory the number of charges that can be read by the makita service during the warranty repair.

After replacing the cells, the charger still rejects the batteries because the error is stored in the battery memory.

Does anyone have an idea how to remove this error? ?

I recommend watching this page:
http://hackaday.com/2010/01/12/makita-battery-pack-repair/

Here are pictures of the battery:


I found something I was thinking about on this site: http://broncosis.blogspot.com/2010/01/my-intro-well-to-start-of-i-guess-i.html

I'd rather fix it than mess it up like this

http://sbworkshop.com/ maybe deco will explain it to you if you had a new batch you can put the new batch into memory ps. how can you tell what bone is there

I'm not very strong in such electronics, could you do it for a small fee?
Will post pictures of the entire board later.

But a first class item.

And would it be possible to replace (fly out) this eprom memory with a new one, of course, if I get one in the store? What do you think.

What you showed in the picture is not memory but a microcontroller. It has 4kB of built-in FLASH memory. You don't have an external EEPROM. The problem is that this microcontroller has built-in security, requiring a password when reprogramming. If you don't know it, you won't be able to access the internal FLASH. They secretly did it. I'm afraid the MAKITy service remains if they entered that password.

Datasheet: http://datasheetz.com/data/Integrated%20Circu...icrocontrollers/MC908JK3ECDWE-datasheetz.html

Programmer: http://www.hc08.net/projects/pgmr.html

What if he replaced the whole microcontroller?

There are more and more of these batteries and I suppose that you could make easy money on it, on erasing the errors themselves, or on a comprehensive repair of these batteries.

He is looking for a smart electronics engineer who would master it and I would be his first customer

I could possibly send a plate from my battery for testing.

BTW What are the links exactly? Standard Li-Ion 18650? Do they have any markings?

Cells have after 3.6V (3Ah has the whole battery, so one cell probably 3000mAh )

I see that even well-known manufacturers have started to make everything "on the cheap". Such cells are not very suitable for devices that consume a lot of electricity, and the screwdriver is one! Their maximum discharge current is ~1.5C, i.e. ~3A. This is probably why they are frequently damaged by overloading. Such packages should contain LiFePo4 batteries with a discharge current of up to 10C. Their undoubted disadvantage is, unfortunately, the price.

The screwdriver and most of the tools work for a very long time on the battery, but the circular saw gives the most ass and it's what I used to kill my battery.

And you think these are cheap, in the store such a battery costs about PLN 400, it's good that Allegro still exists :D

That's why I think that someone who would master this battery would have a good profit on it.

.

The fact that the battery is expensive does not mean that the cells it consists of are too. I buy LiIon cells for about PLN 10-12 per piece in detail.
Coming back to the topic, you would need to have a list of the values of the appropriate bytes in FLASH, and know the password, which probably is, otherwise they would insert bq2060 and would not play with microcontrollers. You have to bribe the Makita serviceman

I suspect that the Makita service in Poland does not even know how such a battery is built, but I will probably ask what they think :D

maybe something like this would help but expensive http://www.powertools2u.co.uk/Batteries/Makita-194088-1-Battery-Checker.htm#

It may be that they send to a central service. Makita even makes a special device for testing and repairing batteries.

As for the laptop battery, just replacing the cells is not enough. It also needs to be reset. Look for regeneration offers on Allegro. It may also pay off to buy a refurbished one.

Hello everyone.

Or maybe it would be worth thinking about upgrading the charger?
After all, it's a Li-ion battery, probably similar to a cell phone, and those ones don't have such electronics. As well as the so-called sticks - they are also Li-ion and the charger is much simpler ...
I tried to charge such a battery (18v) from a 24v car rectifier, it worked only that the wrong voltage did its job
Maybe someone has an idea to remake the original charger.

anzyd wrote:

Hello everyone.
After all, it's a Li-ion battery, probably similar to a cell phone, and those ones don't have such electronics.

It's not quite as you write. Li-Ion batteries usually have built-in over-discharge protection, and the charging electronics sit in the cell.

anzyd wrote:

I tried to charge such a battery (18v) from a 24v car rectifier, it worked only that the wrong voltage did its job

Did you charge the Li-Ion battery with a 24V rectifier?!?
Good thing you didn't break your hands off...

I've been sitting on Makita BL series batteries for over a year and I haven't come up with anything smart electronics codes an error after 10 minutes if the voltage is too low. And overheating them is standard. Recently, I was in Bielsko-Biała for this, but I came back dumber than I was (not proper exploitation). And this battery costs a lot in the Japan version (resistant) less and the Ang version (carcass like chargers) is better than the ARKOF replacement. At least it blocks when the cells fail and not when fully discharged.

Unfortunately, as I wrote above, standard Li-ion batteries are not suitable for power tools.
I would recommend replacing them with these:
http://www.all-battery.com/3-2v1100mahlifepo4rechargeablebattery.aspx
appropriate electronics and charger.

This package is indestructible. Look at the allowable discharge current of the cell. Standard li-ion allow max 3-4A depending on the manufacturer. Overheating of the cells / the entire battery, which my colleague wrote about above, is due to its overload.
Unfortunately, the price of such a battery modification is a bit discouraging I was trying to convert my NiCd battery from a screwdriver to LiFePo4.

Small calculation, for 18V battery 2Ah :
5 x LiFePo4 cell = ~$54
Electronics: ~$26
Charger: ~$24

Total: ~$104= ~300 PLN

krzysgrom wrote:

I've been sitting on Makita BL series batteries for over a year and I haven't come up with anything smart electronics codes an error after 10 minutes if the voltage is too low. And overheating them is standard. Recently, I was in Bielsko-Biała for this, but I came back dumber than I was (not proper exploitation). And this battery costs a lot in the Japan version (resistant) less and the Ang version (carcass like chargers) is better than the ARKOF replacement. At least it blocks when the cells fail and not when fully discharged.

Buddy, what is this ARKOF replacement? ?

How do you separate these two versions, can you post some pics?

I bought a set of mykita from the USA,

I often drained my batteries completely, but I think I finished them off by putting them straight into the charger right after a major discharge.
now i set it aside for 10 minutes to cool down first.

After repair, he charges the batteries with a charger from an old 18 V 2 A screwdriver.
I calculated the charging time at 1.5 hours
after this time the battery is cold (charger only hot)
The battery seems to absorb more current than the original, which can be felt at the speed of the saw.

I admit that these combinations with the charger are starting to annoy me, such things can be played at home and not on the "robot"

P.S. Do you know how to turn on classical music in the charger
You have to put the batteries in and out of the charger again and again, 2 or 3 times in a row.
Later, every time after inserting it into the charger, you will not hear a classic beep, only classical music.

Added after 6 [minutes]:

speedy9 wrote:

Unfortunately, as I wrote above, standard Li-ion batteries are not suitable for power tools.
I would recommend replacing them with these:
http://www.all-battery.com/3-2v1100mahlifepo4rechargeablebattery.aspx
appropriate electronics and charger.

This package is indestructible. Look at the allowable discharge current of the cell. Standard li-ion allow max 3-4A depending on the manufacturer. Overheating of the cells / the entire battery, which my colleague wrote about above, is due to its overload.
Unfortunately, the price of such a battery modification is a bit discouraging I was trying to convert my NiCd battery from a screwdriver to LiFePo4.

Small calculation, for 18V battery 2Ah :
5 x LiFePo4 cell = ~$54
Electronics: ~$26
Charger: ~$24

Total: ~$104= ~300 PLN

Even if you like to play such alterations, it's still too expensive fun.
On Allegro, you can buy a new battery for PLN 270, so all this misses the point.
I think with normal use, this battery will last for many years.

Well, the thread shows that Li-ion does not last for many years ...

With tools such as all screwdrivers, jigsaws, etc. the battery heats up very little and I doubt it will ever be damaged.

But a circular saw can discharge the batteries in 2 minutes, I used such a saw on the roof and after each discharge I immediately put it on the charger,
a message that the battery overheated often popped up, and instead of letting it rest, I force it to charge and there are effects.

ARCOFF replacement table:
.
And the table with production codes is too big to paste it here and it won't change anything anyway.

What have I learned recently

If any error pops up after inserting the battery into the charger, DO NOT insert the battery for charging a second time!!!

You have to replace the cells with good ones and only then put them into charging.
In this way we will avoid completely blocking the battery.

And I just converted my Einhell screwdriver from NiCd batteries to LiPol. Testing next weekend. The battery I used should provide a maximum of 72A, so it should be enough. By the way, instead of 1300mAh I will have 1800mAh. The battery cost me PLN 56, plus a charger for PLN 69 (universal, for many types of batteries, the purchase was still in the plan) + some of my time.
However, what prompted me to convert it was the fact that I rarely use a screwdriver and usually, when I needed it, the batteries were almost discharged from lying down. The new one has no effect

Buddy, what does your alteration have to do with the Makita BL1830 battery repair?

I think we're getting off topic unnecessarily.

In this way, chaos is created on the forums and later you can't find anything specific on a given topic.

I am asking you to move your battery to another page titled, for example: "I converted Einhel to Li-ion" OKAY ?

Regards.

In fact, if a battery error pops up, you must not insert it for charging a second time! ! !
Recently my second battery died but I replaced the broken cells and the battery charged normally, so far it works.

Moderated By _PREDATOR_:

Do not write a post after a post!

I've been having a problem with my makita screwdriver lately. I've had two out of four recently.
I ordered on Allegro, but it's a pity for these two, so I thought that since the cells themselves can be replaced, maybe it would be worth gutting new electronics from the new battery and installing it in the charger, and the batteries would only have cells without electronics, what do you think??

Hello
Would the charger charge batteries with broken electronics?

Please correct the post - regulations point 3.1.13 [days]

blady114 wrote:

I've been having a problem with my makita screwdriver lately. I've had two out of four recently.
I ordered on Allegro, but it's a pity for these two, so I thought that since the cells themselves can be replaced, maybe it would be worth gutting new electronics from the new battery and installing it in the charger, and the batteries would only have cells without electronics, what do you think??

This could work, because I don't see that this electronics has any discharge control circuit (protection of the battery against too much current). Only the eyes of the manufacturer did not "secure" the electronics for such an eventuality?

Unfortunately, new cells will not last that long. I still argue that they are not suitable for such equipment. That's why I wrote earlier about the modification of my screwdriver. I didn't use LiIon, only LiPol. Only LiFe and LiPol cells are suitable for such equipment. But, of course, it is better for companies to put cheap LiIon and charge customers for new batteries, for which they charge themselves as for the proverbial corn.

... and my colleague continues about the superiority of li-po, if it were as you say, then li-po batteries would be produced for tools, but this is not so ... why? you have google, so read it, and then make your arguments about the superiority of one over the other, because you're wrong.
The question was about resetting the chip .... really no one has come up with anything yet with this contraption?
Thanks and no offense.

Recently, I had an idea to gut the old battery and put a transformer or some electronic system in it instead of cells, and thus connect the tools directly to the 230v socket.

Tools such as a chainsaw need a lot of current in a short time, which is a drag on the batteries, and there is no need to use batteries when there is access to the electricity network.

The tools have 18 V and probably with 10 A you need or maybe more to work because 2 A will not pull, it barely spins.

And ideally, it would be an electronic system with high power, so that it would fit into the battery.

If anyone has any good advice, please post!

Hello.
The cells in the BL 1830 package are protected by electronics and must not be used without it, as it may cause an explosion or fire.
I built a programmer for the processor included in them, i.e.: MC68HC908JK3
and tried to read the memory, unfortunately I got the message "68HC08 Device is responding properly, but ROM is SECURE. Specify security bytes or select IGNORE".
So you can't compare memory from a working package with memory from a non-working package. You need a batch of a working package to program the proc, or knowledge of "security bytes". Does anyone own one or the other?
Regards