Fluorescent Lamp 85W E27: Irregular Flashes When Disconnected from Power Supply in 1993 Flat

Hello, at the beginning I would like to mention that I was looking for the causes of my problem on the Internet, but I met with different opinions, so I decided to write on my favorite forum. Well:

I bought a 85W fluorescent lamp (equivalent to 400W). It is a fluorescent lamp with a standard E27 thread. Today I installed it in a room that had been "disassembled" for a long time and after two hours of burning this fluorescent lamp and its You I noticed her irregular flashes of varying intensity.

Why does this fluorescent lamp blink if it is theoretically disconnected from the power supply?

Looking for an answer to this question, I also came across threads about incorrectly made electrical installation or bad connection, so below is what it looks like for me:

Poland. A block of flats put into use in 1993.
Standard single switch (no backlight, no dimmer)
The box contains three cables: red yellow blue
Three cables come out of the ceiling: yellow blue blue
The fluorescent lamp is screwed into an E27 socket with its own cables (blue and brown), which I have to connect to some of the ceiling via a cube.

At the moment I have red and yellow connected from the box to the switch, and blue and yellow from the ceiling connected to blue and brown from the fluorescent lamp socket (blue with blue, yellow with brown)



I hope I have provided comprehensive information in a legible way. If any of you could help me, I'd be grateful, meanwhile tonight I'm unscrewing the fluorescent lamp because it'll schmooze me

Quote:

Standard single switch ( without backlight without dimmer)

I bet the voltage is induced.
Turn off the fuses from the lighting circuit and see if it blinks.
Turn off all fuses and see if it blinks.

If in the first case it stops blinking, it is induced from other wires connected to this point in the ceiling.
If in the second case it does not stop blinking, you have a free strobe with power supply by induction from the neighbor above [/b]

Hello
One more case can cause such an effect, the phase is applied directly to the lamp, zero goes through the switch. It's easy to check: when the lamp is off, the neon tester must not glow when testing on the lamp holder.
George

Jerzy Bartnicki wrote:

Hello
One more case can cause such an effect, the phase is applied directly to the lamp, zero goes through the switch. It's easy to check: when the lamp is off, the neon tester must not glow when testing on the lamp holder.
George

Unscrew this fluorescent lamp, unscrew the switch, disconnect one wire and then check with a voltage indicator on each wire. If the indicator is not lit, you have it connected as a colleague writes. If only one is ok. (lit by induction)

Hello Phase by switch / not dimmer and not illuminated / zero directly. There should not be any problems.

Hey, thanks a lot for the tips, it seems to me that what Jerzy Bartnicki wrote about incorrect connection may indeed be the cause . As soon as I find/buy such a cable tester, I will test it and let you know if it helped.

I will add that it is certainly not the fluorescent lamp's fault, I checked it - first I lit it for a long time and then I unscrewed it from the socket, to my surprise after a few seconds it gave one weak blink, but then it did not blink anymore, and when screwed into the socket it blinked constantly every now and then so there is definitely something wrong with these cables.

I'll let you know how it goes, thanks again!

PS: I love post-communist buildings, I would like to congratulate those "foremen" on the random selection of wire colors ...

Added after 4 [hours] 8 [minutes]:

Hi! Well, I have a voltage indicator (this kind of screwdriver with a lamp )

Can:
Red = voltage (indicator is bright)
Yellow = light voltage (indicator is barely lit)
Blue = no voltage

Ceiling:
Yellow = voltage (the indicator is bright when the switch is in the ON position, the indicator is weak when the switch is in the OFF position)
Blue = no voltage
Blue = no voltage

After completely disassembling the switch, I have a strong voltage on the red and a weak voltage on the yellow in the box, and a weak voltage on the yellow in the ceiling.

WHAT IS IT ABOUT ?? :/

Hello
Everything is fine with the installation. The problem is that the voltage is induced on the wires. For a layman (the wire between the switch and the lamp acts as a transformer), someone has already written about it above. It doesn't hurt at all. This can be prevented by connecting a resistor in parallel on the holder, but I have never done it, so I will not give you the parameters of the resistor.
George

mullen wrote:

I bought a 85W fluorescent lamp (equivalent to 400W). It is a fluorescent lamp with a standard E27 thread. Today I installed it in a room that had been "disassembled" for a long time and after two hours of burning this fluorescent lamp and its You I noticed her irregular flashes of varying intensity.

Quite a puzzle indeed.
I recently had such a situation, but in the switch I had a neon lamp that began to "let go" and therefore the bulb "blinked".
Are you sure you don't have this type of switch?

If there is a switch with a backlight, a small current flows through the fluorescent lamp (thanks to this, only the backlight of the switch is lit). This minimum current causes the capacitor in the fluorescent lamp's ignition system to charge and the lamp to ignite. This is the cause of 90% of fluorescent lights flickering. Especially this problem occurs with cheaper fluorescent lamps where there is a simple ignition system. With the more expensive ones (PLN 30-40), there is practically no such effect because they have a better ignition system.
The price does wonders

tom78922 wrote:

If there is a switch with a backlight, a small current flows through the fluorescent lamp (thanks to this, only the backlight of the switch is lit). This minimum current causes the capacitor in the fluorescent lamp's ignition system to charge and the lamp to ignite. This is the cause of 90% of fluorescent lights flickering. Especially this problem occurs with cheaper fluorescent lamps where there is a simple ignition system. With the more expensive ones (PLN 30-40), there is practically no such effect because they have a better ignition system.
The price does wonders

It's just not my case
In the existing installation, without changing the bulbs, there was simply "blinking" (btw. I have compact fluorescent lamps rather from the top shelf). My hair stood on end when it turned out that with the switch off I have voltage where it shouldn't be. After disconnecting the neon - cured

I had a similar problem. For me, it was stuck in a red diode that made it easier to find the light switch. After disassembling it and disconnecting the diode, the problem disappeared.

Hi,

I bought a new lamp for five light sources, I bought 5 brand new LED light sources, OSRAM Value Classic A40 6W, for the lamp. The lamp switch has two buttons, the phase goes to it and is divided into two wires. Three yellow-phase, black (left)-neutral and black (right)-phase wires come out of the ceiling by the lamp, all as in the attached picture below:


The lamp is connected in such a way that on one phase there are two LEDs (two black wires with the yellow phase on the cube), on the other phase three LEDs (three black wires with the black phase on the cube - most to the right), all wires are connected to the neutral wire at once(middle wire from the ceiling).

Five OSRAM LEDs are screwed in, everything works, but there is a problem, when ONLY one button on the switch is turned on (i.e. only two light sources or only three light sources on), the other LEDs gently blink every few seconds. I would like to mention that I do not have a lamp in the light switch, zero from the ceiling runs directly to the network (not to the lamp switch).
My question is why are the LEDs blinking? With the same lamp connection configuration, other light sources such as fluorescent lamps or LEDs of another brand (IKEA) did not blink.

I solved the problem of blinking (off) LED OSRAM when in each configuration (3 light sources and 2 light sources) there was one fluorescent lamp or bulb. When among the 3 or 2 above-mentioned sources there was one LED of another brand (here: IKEA), the turned off LED from IKEA did not blink, while the one from OSRAM did. Below is a picture of connected LEDs and fluorescent lamps, leveling the flickering of OSRAM LEDs. (Switch configuration: 3 light sources - three middle ones in the picture, 2 light sources - left and right in the picture - one fluorescent lamp in each configuration).



Question: why? And is there any remedy, I would like to have 5 brand new LEDs in the lamp
Of course, I know that the wiring looks like a total makeshift, but it is protection against punctures. The wires in the apartment are aluminum, and 30 years old I cannot afford to renovate the electrical system in the whole house, and partial replacement does not make sense.

Thank you in advance and best regards
Bartek

And tell me, do you have the momentary button from turning on the light with backlight?

Quote:

[...] I would like to mention that I do not have a lamp in the light switch, the zero from the ceiling runs directly to the mains (not to the lamp switch). [...]

Well, I don't have a backlight in the light switch