LED bulbs flash when the circuit with stair switches is turned off

After turning off the circuit with stair and cross switches, LED bulbs (230V ones) blink. I checked, there is a voltage of 65V on them then. From where ?

There are no neon lights in the switches.

Install the filtration condenser. Should be OK. 100nF or more at >300V

Added after 39 [seconds]:

Please post a picture of these switches

Thank you for your help.
I will try to take a photo, but these are ordinary 2-stair and 3-cross switches, without any backlights.

A 15nf/630V capacitor was connected in parallel to the bulb - the problem of flashing LED bulbs is solved.
I had 3 and 5W LEDs and a considerable length of cable in the wall in both cases (about 15m each).
Unfortunately, induction in alternating current is merciless.

I have a problem. As you wrote with an ash capacitor (10 micro F, 400 V) parallel to the bulb. Before turning on the power, the LED bulbs actually stopped glowing. However, after turning on the power, after a few seconds, the capacitor burned, emitting a lot of smoke. I immediately say that I have kept the polarity (the longer leg of the capacitor is plus, the shorter one is minus). I connected the capacitor in the switch box (about 10 meters before the light bulb).

You connected the wrong capacitor. And this "bulb" is powered by direct current that you write about plus and minus?

tomsurm wrote:

I immediately say that I have kept the polarity (the longer leg of the capacitor is plus, the shorter one is minus).

What's the plus? Maybe an electrolytic capacitor?

Of course, the electrolyte, with a capacity of 10 uF and plus and minus, is 99.99% electrolyte.

Will this one be good?

Technical data:
Model: MKP1846
Type: polypropylene
Nominal capacitance: 15nF (+/- 5%)
Limit voltage: 630V

Good

Hello
I have a similar problem, I connected the MKP 100nF 305V AC capacitor in parallel
and the light bulb still glows, albeit weaker, but still glows
Regards

Give a smaller 15nF capacitor.

Hello,

Me with the same problem as in the attached video:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vUA7khjUxAQ&feature=youtu.be
This bulb is Osram Led Star classic P25 3.5W

The switch is an Ospel Sonata with a diode that can be pulled out. However, I do not want to deprive myself of this diode (it facilitates orientation in the dark )

Switch and diode:


You're talking about a capacitor. Where should I put this capacitor and what kind? Do you solder it to the can? I don't have much access to the box where the wires going further around the apartment "branch off". Or maybe to the wire going to the switch in the switch box? Or maybe to the cube of the chandelier? Or maybe to the legs of this diode (only I do not know if then the legs will have contact at the depth because the diode will protrude slightly upwards). Can someone help with a picture?

Hello,

I also had a similar problem. With the use of stair switches with backlight and energy-saving bulbs, the lamp flickered every now and then despite the lights being turned off. I used a small capacitor connected in parallel to the lamp's electrical cube. The capacitor costs a few zlotys and completely eliminates this phenomenon. You can also use ordinary light bulbs or ordinary connectors, i.e. without backlight. But I didn't want to give up either of them. In the footer, there is a link to a page where someone described how to set up such a capacitor.

Regards
Stephen

DJ_Dexinter wrote:

Install the filtration condenser. Should be OK. 100nF or more at >300V

Firstly, the voltage of the capacitor must be at least 400V (if there is no abbreviation AC, i.e. the given value of 400V is the instantaneous value). This follows from a simple calculation:
230V AC in our mains is rms value and the instantaneous value is 230 x 1.41 (root of 2) = 330V. Taking into account mains voltage fluctuations, 400V is assumed for safety reasons.

If there is an addition AC (e.g. 250V AC), it means that the capacitor withstands 250V rms value (i.e. about 400V instantaneous value). Such markings are most often used for capacitors of the X2 type (so-called across), which are constructed as typical filtering systems at the network input.

Added after 2 [minutes]:

By the way, a helpful post in solving problems with LED flashing after power off.

Added after 12 [minutes]:

tomsurm wrote:

I have a problem. As you wrote with an ash capacitor (10 micro F, 400 V) parallel to the bulb. Before turning on the power, the LED bulbs actually stopped glowing. However, after turning on the power, after a few seconds, the capacitor burned, emitting a lot of smoke. I immediately say that I have kept the polarity (the longer leg of the capacitor is plus, the shorter one is minus). I connected the capacitor in the switch box (about 10 meters before the light bulb).

Dales 10uF parallel to the grid? No wonder you boiled it in 3 seconds. Do you know what the current flowed?
The guys wrote about 100nF or 0.1uF and you were 100 times bigger. For such a capacity, the lights must have dimmed throughout the house before the capacitor exploded :)

Second thing, what does "I kept polarity" mean? Plus to phase and minus to zero or vice versa? Anyway, it doesn't matter. in both cases, the electrolyte will not last long. It will evaporate in an instant.

Don't do any more experiments like this because it will end badly. And so much detail...

Hello. I'm bumping this topic because I feel like my problem is similar:
At home, I made a system of 2 double stair switches (legrand niloe, without backlight) supporting 2 independent LED lamps, 3.5 W each, connected to 230V~. Connection according to the scheme from one of the topics from this forum. The system works (switches on and off as it should) but when the lights are turned off on one side, the LEDs still gently glow with a continuous light, and when turned off on the other side they do not (although they may also shine only much weaker, at the limit of visibility, because at night I had the impression that you could see the diodes though). This applies to both lamps. I don't have a meter to check the voltage at the outputs. Could it be the same reason, i.e. currents induced in the wires and the solution is the same (add a capacitor in parallel to each lamp)?
I will add that there are about 3-4 m of 1.5 mm? wire between the switches and about 2 m of 0.75 mm? wire to the lamps.

Add a capacitor in parallel to each lamp

Thanks for the quick response, I will buy these capacitors and let you know if it helped.
I'm just asking for confirmation if these will be ok allegro.pl/oferta/kondensator-15nf-400v-mkse-5-r-10mm-x5szt-6727474270

neonidas1 , such capacitors (intended for this purpose) can be bought in every electromarket and stores with electrical goods.

neonidas1 wrote:

I'm just asking for confirmation if these will be ok allegro.pl/oferta/kondensator-15nf-400v-mkse-5-r-10mm-x5szt-6727474270

For the same price you will buy 15nF at 630V. I would choose these (https://allegro.pl/oferta/kondensator-15nf-630v-mkse-20-r-15mm-x5szt-6727476221).

Useful in this topic:
link

Thank you very much for the really quick response I'll let you know what I bought and if it helped

Edit.
Welcome back.
It works
I bought something like this on alledrogo:
Fluorescent lamp flare eliminator
energy-saving and 230Vac LED lighting
RC-LED 100nF +120k? 275Vac X2

I connected parallel to the connection block at both lamps and the problem disappeared as he took his hand away :D

By the way, a bit strange that in the era of more and more common LEDs, no one warns anywhere that such a thing may be needed for illuminated switches and/or stairs. I guess it's obvious for qualified electricians...

Thank you very much for your help and I am sure that you have helped many others along the way

neonidas1 , only cheap light bulbs create such problems.