Smart home – I’d like some advice – I’ve got the walls and ceiling sorted. Now I want the wiring :-)

A warm hello,
I’m currently building a house. It’s not very big – about 160 m². Naturally, as a self-taught electrical and electronics engineer (and enthusiast), I’d like to make it a bit of a smart home. I say ‘a bit’ because I’ve met a few people who’ve ‘gotten carried away’ when talking about the system. Above all, I want to design a sound installation that I can expand on later. The knowledge I’m interested in is less academic and more practical.
I’d like to divide what I’ve managed to find out into a few topics, which I’d like to explore further with the help of specialists and practitioners, for my own benefit and that of my ‘friends from the countryside and the cities’.
Topic 1 – Distribution board/main junction box
I’ve forgotten the technical term for it. It’s a plastic box containing fuses and a residual current device (RCD), which most people install above or next to the front door. I want to have this box in what’s known as the utility room. As it’s “almost the central point” of the house – accessible from the main corridor – I decided there’s no need to install it next to the door. Additionally, in the next stage, I’d like to connect the underfloor heating temperature controllers to this distribution board. But more on that later. Apparently, a control unit of this sort should have a capacity of around 80 modules for this house (what does that mean?). And all the cables from throughout the house should converge at this point.
Topic 2 – Electrical installations
At this stage, I can run whatever fits into the walls. The simplest solution is a standard 3x1.5 or 3x2 cable. Apparently, for a smart home installation, you also need to lay a control cable. What is this cable? Should all cables from all sockets converge at the control centre? Should there be any other junction boxes or distribution boards along the way? Is there anything else I need to put in the walls? I’d appreciate some clarification.
Topic 3 – sockets, junction boxes, switches
Are any special components required for the installation? Of course, I’ve visited a few websites where sockets cost between 50 and 100 euros – and what can I say to that? That I don’t want them. What components are essential, and is there a ‘normal’ shop with affordable prices? Should the junction boxes to which we screw the sockets be any different?
Topic 4 – Lighting
For several years now, I’ve noticed that the cost of photovoltaic cells has been falling. I’ve come up with the idea of setting up low-voltage lighting and, in the future, connecting a roof-mounted panel with a battery to power this part of the home’s lighting. I’ve learnt that there’s no need to install a separate circuit. Apparently, all you need to do is run the appropriate cables to the distribution board and reconfigure them there so that part of the system ‘runs’ on a different voltage. As this is a forward-looking solution, I can afford to waste a dozen or so metres of cable to ensure I won’t have any lighting issues in the future. I should point out that I don’t want to use those ‘cheap LED strips’ that have been all the rage recently, as they make the house look like an airport; instead, I’m after subtle, subdued lighting that serves more of an aesthetic and navigational purpose than for working or reading. These functions are to be fulfilled by floor lamps and desk lamps.
Topic 5 – Roller blinds
One of the specialists suggested avoiding the Somfy radio-controlled system with centralised control because it’s simply expensive (for my house, it came to around 6,600 net) and that it would be better to use wired motors and connect them to the smart home system. That’s what I did. I ordered the wired ones. I’m not a fan of wireless systems and remote controls at all. I currently have six remotes at home. A specialist came round and said that instead of all of them, I could have just one. I trusted him. I spent a week trying to switch things on and off, fiddling with the controls, and then I returned the equipment.. I’d rather have six standard ones. I won’t even mention my wife, because she gave me a right telling-off for that veeeeeeeery clever remote control. So I’d prefer a wall-mounted control unit. It could be touchscreen (but that’s a thing of the future). I wanted the roller shutter system to have a ‘home’ mode and two additional functions: opening the shutters and closing them. A mate of mine can control his blinds via his iPhone. When he closes a blind and the phone rings, the system goes a bit haywire and can end up opening the blind. It’s the same with the TV audio system.
Topic 6 – TV audio.
I’ve decided to install a satellite dish on the roof with three or four converters. So, about four cables will be run from the roof to my control unit. And now comes the key question. Should I focus on coaxial cables or rather on network sockets (computer sockets)? I’ve read a bit on the subject and, as I’ve noticed, nobody is planning to change the coaxial cables or sockets. Should I still install network sockets (computer) next to the coaxial sockets on the walls? I’m assuming that each receiver will have its own TVSAT set-top box. As for the audio system, I don’t really have any ideas. I’m not sure what I might want. Does anyone have any good ideas or interesting experiences to share?
Topic 7 – How to connect it all.
This is all a bit of a mystery to me. I thought it might work like a computer, where you connect individual devices and use software to make them perform specific functions. But I suppose it’s not like that. There’s some sort of control unit that everything connects to in some way.

Topic 8, or rather Topic Zero – System/Installation
This should probably have been the start of the post. Where can you find resources (websites, books, magazines for enthusiasts) on choosing equipment and putting theory into practice? Apart from shops selling a standard socket for four stówy. For the installation in my cottage, including the lightning protection system (without any control functions), a specialist quoted 37,000 net (but including cables . Another one showed me how he uses his iPad to switch off his wife’s desk lamp via the internet. Sorry, but I sent him on his way after that. On the one hand, I’ve got smart home specialists who want over 35,000 zł for the installation alone, whereas a traditional installation costs 14,000 zł. I don’t think the difference in price for the cables and junction box alone is that great.
On the other hand, I’ve read comments from engineers and representatives of various companies on Elektroda. Well, that’s all very well. But for me, as a user, it’s all far too complicated. I want something simple that will perform the basic functions of switching things on and off, either individually or in groups. I realise that a good solution (if one exists) would be to buy an inexpensive ‘home automation hub’ which, once wired up and connected to the internet or via a laptop, I could programme to do whatever I want. Is there such a thing?
I would be grateful if the forum members could offer their help and advice.

Best regards,

Tomek

Have a look HERE .
You might find something to your liking

McTommy wrote:

Hello,
I’d like to make my home a bit smarter.

That sounded a bit odd

McTommy wrote:

Topic 1 – Control unit/control box
I’ve forgotten the technical term.

electrical distribution board

McTommy wrote:

with a residual current device,

residual current devices – not just one per house, but several, or even a dozen or so

McTommy wrote:

which most people install above or next to the front door. I want to have this box in what is known as the utility room. As it is ‘almost the central point’ of the house – accessed from the main corridor – I decided there was no need to install it next to the door.

a very good spot

McTommy wrote:

Additionally, in the next stage, I’d like to connect the underfloor heating temperature controllers to this control unit. But more on that later. Apparently, a control unit of this sort should have a capacity of around 80 modules for this house (what does that mean?). And all the cables from throughout the house should converge at this point.

You need to think about what the system’s capabilities will be – for a house of around 260m², automation, electrical safety systems, a LAN network, a TV network, two cupboards measuring 75cm/195cm and a second one measuring 100cm/195cm

McTommy wrote:

Topic 2 – Electrical installations
At this stage, I can run whatever fits inside the walls. The simplest solution is standard 3x1.5 or 3x2 cable. Apparently, for a smart home installation, you also need to lay a control cable. What is this cable? Should all cables from all sockets converge at the control centre? Should there be any other junction boxes or distribution boards along the way? Is there anything else I should put in the walls? I’d appreciate some further information.

Read up on:
network topology, e.g. Nexo www.nexwell.pl
selection of electrical cables in terms of long-term current load
Ideally, everything should be routed to a central point.

McTommy wrote:

Topic 3 – sockets, junction boxes, switches
Do I need any special gadgets for the installation? Of course, I’ve visited a few websites where sockets cost between 50 and 100 euros, and what can I say to that? That I don’t want them. What components are essential, and is there a ‘normal’ shop with affordable prices? Should the junction boxes to which we screw the sockets be any different?

Head to your nearest electrical shop; the sales staff there will explain the basics with examples – you can also buy sockets for 7 zł each.

McTommy wrote:

Topic 4 – Lighting
For several years now, I’ve noticed that the cost of photovoltaic cells has been falling. I’ve come up with the idea of setting up low-voltage lighting and, in the future, connecting a roof-mounted panel with a battery to power this part of the home’s lighting. I’ve learnt that there’s no need to install a separate circuit. Apparently, all you need to do is run the appropriate cables to the distribution board and reconfigure them there so that part of the system ‘runs’ on a different voltage. As this is a forward-looking project, I can afford to waste a dozen or so metres of cable to ensure I have peace of mind regarding the lighting in the future. I should point out that I don’t want to use those ‘cheap LED strips’ that have been all the rage recently, as they make the house look like an airport; I’m after subtle, subdued lighting that serves more of an aesthetic and navigational purpose than for working or reading.. Floor and desk lamps are designed to fulfil these functions.

I won’t comment; if you have your own ideas, go ahead and put them into practice – but first, read through plenty of threads on this forum. To put it simply: there’s one rule – either you design and build something from A to Z, or you’ll always end up ruining things – it’s like building a house and assuming there’ll be an extension anyway – there’ll be more work to do – the previous work will be ruined, or it’ll be in a state of ‘constant renovation’.

McTommy wrote:

Topic 5 – roller blinds
One of the specialists suggested I avoid the Somfy radio system with central control because it’s simply expensive (for my house it came to around 6,600 net) and that it would be better to use wired motors and connect them to the smart home system. That’s what I did. I ordered the wired ones. I’m not a fan of wireless systems and remote controls at all. I now have six remotes at home. A specialist came round and said that instead of all of them, I could have just one. I trusted him. I spent a week trying to switch things on and off, fiddling with it, and then I returned the equipment. I prefer six ordinary ones. I won’t even mention my wife – she gave me a right telling-off for that veeeeeeeery clever remote. So I prefer a control unit mounted on the wall. It can be touchscreen (though that invention is a thing of the future). I wanted the roller shutter system to have a ‘home presence’ option and two additional functions: opening the shutters and closing them. A mate of mine can control his roller blinds via his iPhone. When he closes a blind and the phone rings, the system goes a bit haywire and can end up opening the blind. It’s the same with the TV audio system.

Four roller blinds in Nexo – that’s one module – check the price, I think it’s around 800 zł, after that, you control them using standard switches, a remote control or an LCD panel, but here’s the thing I mentioned earlier – you either set up a centralised system or have several ‘tree-shaped’ setups around the flat.

McTommy wrote:

Topic 6 – TV audio.
I’ve decided to install a satellite dish on the roof with three or four converters. So, about four cables will be run from the roof to my control unit. And now comes the key question. Should I focus on coaxial cables or rather on network sockets (computer)? I’ve read a bit on the subject and, as I’ve noticed, nobody is planning to change the coaxial cables or sockets. Should I still install network sockets (computer) next to the coaxial sockets on the walls? I’m assuming that each receiver will have its own TVSAT set-top box. As for the audio system, I don’t really have any ideas. Because I don’t know what I might want. Does anyone have any good ideas or interesting experiences to share?

Have a read: tuners with two inputs, installation on a multiswitch, card splitter, DVB-T terrestrial TV – SAT aerial cables are essential; no LAN can replace them. Of course, you run the LAN separately, unless you want a radio connection – I’m not a fan of that.

McTommy wrote:

Topic 7 – How to connect it all.
To me, this is black magic. I thought you could do it like a computer, where you connect individual devices and use software to make them perform specific functions. But I suppose it’s different. There’s some sort of control unit that you connect things to.

Years of practice and you’ll get the hang of it all, but I don’t think you can do it on your own – you’ll need a mentor, or to spend a few months working on these kinds of projects – otherwise I don’t see how it’s possible. Sorry, I appreciate your creativity and ambitious plans, but electrical work isn’t a game, and you certainly wouldn’t want to be held responsible for someone’s life in court, especially if it’s a close family member..

McTommy wrote:

For the installation in my cottage, including the lightning protection system (without any control functions), the specialist quoted 37,000 net (but including cables .

Is this a shell?

McTommy wrote:

On the one hand, I have smart home specialists who want over 35,000 zł for the installation alone, whereas a traditional installation would cost 14,000 zł.
I don’t think the difference in price for the cables and junction boxes alone is that significant.

It’s hard to say for sure, but I’d estimate around 3,000 zł for the electrical design of such a system; with a traditional installation, you run a single power supply for the lighting across several rooms – here, every switch and socket outlet has to be routed back to the distribution board – there’s several times more work involved; the concentration of additional cables at a single point significantly increases the time taken for laying them, terminating them, and so on

Best regards

Cheers for the advice. It’s brilliant. I’ve been doing a bit of reading recently and scouring forums, and my knowledge has increased by 100% (I should point out that it wasn’t zero to begin with, because anything times zero always equals zero . But I’ve got a question about laying the cables. I’m wondering whether to do it myself. I’ll have plenty of free time in January and February.
In theory, it seems straightforward to me. As a trial run, I bought a few dozen metres of cable to connect the lights to the motion detectors on the building site. So I started laying it along the wall and ceiling (starting from the bottom). The 3x1.5 cable kept twisting, and to be honest, it doesn’t look great. How can I stop the cable from twisting? I know it’s a matter of experience, but is there perhaps a special way of unrolling it from the reel? On the other hand, I’m thinking about using a cable chaser, although I’ve read that it’s very labour-intensive.
One of the electricians who was at my building site said that he lays all the cables in conduits or cable trays on the floor. In my case, there’ll be 15 cm of polystyrene at ‘zero’ level. On top of that, underfloor heating. Upstairs – 10 cm of polystyrene and underfloor heating. I read somewhere that running cables in the floor is a mess and shouldn’t be done that way.
As I’m on a very tight budget, I’d like to do as much as possible myself. At the same time, I’m thinking about installing (just the installation for now) a central vacuum system and ducting for a heat recovery unit in the future. How would all that fit in with the cables in conduits on the floor?
And one more question regarding the height of the sockets. Do you think that where there’s a desk, the LAN socket should be placed higher than 20 cm from the floor? Or would it be better to place it at ‘under-desk’ height? That way, you wouldn’t see any cables hanging down or lying on the floor.
Oh, and what’s the best drill bit to buy for drilling holes for outlets and junction boxes?
And how much does it cost?

McTommy wrote:

How can I stop the cable from twisting?

Take roughly (or rather more) the number of cable coils you need for the section in question from the roll (starting from the centre) and unroll it onto the floor.

However, I’d suggest you find a knowledgeable electrician to carry out this installation for you.
You’ll make so many mistakes along the way that fixing them later will cost you more than the money you’d have saved by not hiring an electrician.

Hello
It’s all doable – the end result will tell you the truth
I reckon that without experience, practice and supervision from someone who knows what they’re doing, you’ll find it terribly fiddly; you won’t have a feel for it, you might damage some of the cables, and you’ll spend twice as long on it, but as they say, practice makes perfect – just make sure you don’t end up kicking yourself later.
Unwind the cable like fishing line from a spool; you can roll it along the floor so it doesn’t get twisted. Temperature is also important here – it’s worth heating the room; you can also straighten the cables by pulling them through a cloth, which makes them easier to lay.

Run the cables along the floor as a last resort, in places where there’s no other way, using protection – PVC pipes or a flexible conduit. On walls in designated zones – 15 cm from the ceiling and 30 cm from the corners of door frames; the zone should be 30 cm wide, but this is only theory; in practice, it’s often impossible to maintain these dimensions – take photos with a tape measure. The height of sockets everywhere (except in kitchens, bathrooms and utility rooms) should be approximately 30 cm above the (final) floor level. Any corners – whether concave or convex – should be levelled and reinforced. You can run cables in the space above the KG board, including within a conduit.
That’s just a very brief overview – the most important thing is to draw up a plan showing the layout of sockets, switches, lights and household appliances, and have it checked by someone who knows what they’re doing.
Regards

Have a read about the FIBARO system, mate. An affordable way to set up a smart home

I’ve been reading up on Fibaro. It’s a really nice control app and the brochures are absolutely stunning. But for the price of a Fibaro system for my house, I could fit out the whole electrical system with Fatek, get a central vacuum cleaner, install an air-con system, and probably even fill up my car with petrol. Blimey. Why is it that in this country you have to pay a fortune for everything? A single-circuit dimmer switch for 241 zł? Come on. Radio control? I don’t want it. Fibaro sounds nice and looks very smart... but it’s not for me. If I want to expand the system in the future, I’ll end up spending a fortune on every little thing. And I don’t want that. My aim is to set up the system and connect a controller to which I can then add various components. Maybe a garden watering system with a moisture sensor, maybe a few garden lighting circuits with easy-to-program scenes, maybe, maybe, maybe. I’ll achieve all this using Fatek, Siemens or other industrial controllers. I wouldn’t even recommend Fibaro to myself, because in future I want to install energy- and cost-saving components, rather than getting caught in Fibaro’s ‘jaws of the shark’.
Phew. I may have phrased that a bit harshly, but I’ve just come back from meeting a friend of mine whose smart home was installed by Company X. After he’d moved in, they were supposed to come and do the programming, control setup and so on. The installation for the 300m house cost 50,000 zł. But the control and programming cost a further 17,000. And any additional component (’Sir, it’s peanuts, we’ll do it later’) usually costs 1,000 zł including programming. So the 23 components missing from the installation (garden, heat pump, underfloor heating and alarm) amount to at least an additional 23,000 zlotys. Well done to the specialists. It’s just mind-boggling. If anyone is surprised that I want to do so much myself, it means that:
1. They work for Company X,
2. They think you have to pay tens of thousands for nothing.
This doesn’t mean I don’t respect other people’s work. Especially that of specialists. For a ladder-style programme to switch on (two clicks) two lights in the bedroom – Company X asked for 350 zł net (offering a two-year performance guarantee).
Thank you to all the wonderful, good-natured people who don’t mind an amateur doing his own installations, learning to programme, and so on. Although they’d probably laugh at the results of my first attempts, but never mind.

I’ve deleted the suggestion. Please stay on topic. [retrofood]