Is it possible to save money by turning down the thermostat on the radiator?

Hello, I have a question about thermostats on radiators. I decided that setting the thermostat at 5 was too high, the rooms were too warm, over 23 degrees.
Now, if I turn the thermostat down to 3, will it consume less gas? Should I understand that if I change the thermostat from 5 to 3, the stove will have less water to heat and it will be more economical? What does it mean to turn down the thermostat on the radiator?

And you don`t have a temperature setting on the stove?

The temperature on the stove is about 65 degrees.

Radiator thermostats close the flow of heating medium after reaching the set temperature in the room.
This means that less energy will be drawn from the stove after turning the knob from position 5 to 3.
At a lower temperature in the room, the losses (heat radiated from the building) will also be lower because it depends almost linearly on the temperature difference between the interior and exterior of the building.
Position 3 for me is about 20°C.

Thank you for the info, Mr. Grzegorz.

Each number on the thermostat corresponds to a certain room temperature. Set the appropriate temperatures (numbers) on the heads in each room (so that you feel comfortable, don`t look at the thermometer) and the savings will be significant, because why heat a room that is already warm?

Okay, but when I turn down the thermostats on the radiators, what happens to the furnace? It still has to work to heat the water in the radiators. Unless the thermostats are turned down, the furnace has less water to heat, is that true? Can the furnace work for a shorter time? And then this saving.

The gas furnace (without an external regulator) operates according to the temperature sensor of the water returning from the central heating system. If some of the radiators are closed by thermoheads, the water in them will not cool down, i.e. water will return at a higher temperature and the stove will not heat longer. It will only turn on when the water in the circuit cools down more. If it is a stove controlled by a room programmer. After reaching the set temperature in the room where the programmer sensor is located, the stove will go into standby mode (switch off the stove) and the stove will be turned on when the temperature in this room drops below the set temperature.

The furnace works on a room programmer. That`s why I have a question about savings and regulating thermostats on radiators.

wertiko7 wrote:

The stove works on a room programmer. That`s why I have a question about savings and regulating thermostats on radiators.

Then don`t forget just two things:
1) The temperature sensor is placed in the room that loses temperature the fastest;
2) In the room where the room thermostat sensor is located, the thermostatic heads must be fully open (in this room, it is the programmer, not the head, that controls the temperature).

It`s a bit different for me, and I`m worried if it`s ok. My apartment has two levels, the second level is the attic, the building is new. The developer placed a room thermostat on the first level in the living room. Normally, without heating, the second level is cooler by about 2 degrees if the outside temperature is about 5 degrees. And downstairs, if you set the radiator thermostats to the maximum, the living room heats up for a while and the upstairs doesn`t have time to heat up yet. So I have to cheat the thermostat a bit. In the living room, where there is a room thermostat, I set the radiators to 3, maybe 3.5, only then does the upstairs get warm, this is because the temperature in the living room takes a little longer to reach 21.5 degrees. In general, it`s difficult to adjust it now because of the lack of frost, I don`t know how it will work when frost comes.

wertiko7 wrote:

It`s a bit different for me, and I`m worried if it`s ok. My apartment has two levels, the second level is the attic, the building is new. The developer placed a room thermostat on the first level in the living room. Normally, without heating, the second level is cooler by about 2 degrees if the outside temperature is about 5 degrees. And downstairs, if you set the radiator thermostats to the maximum, the living room heats up for a while and the upstairs doesn`t have time to heat up yet. So I have to cheat the thermostat a bit. In the living room, where there is a room thermostat, I set the radiators to 3, maybe 3.5, only then does the upstairs get warm, this is because the temperature in the living room takes a little longer to reach 21.5 degrees. In general, it`s difficult to adjust it now because of the lack of frost, I don`t know how it will work when frost comes.

The installation must be detected.

Please be clearer, because I don`t know anything about heating technology.

It is best to arrange everything when there are not too many frosts (it hurts less financially).
When it comes to setting, I would do this.
1) He bought thermometers and placed each one in one room;
2) I would bring all rooms to a comfortable temperature (the temperature that is to be maintained);
3) I would write down the readings of all thermometers and turn off the heating completely for at least 12 hours (preferably 24 hours);
4) I would go home and read all the thermometers;
5) Where the difference in temperatures before and after would be the largest, I would install a room thermostat temperature sensor (usually you can leave the programmer in its current place and only remove the sensor and move it to the appropriate room;
6) In the room where the room thermostat sensor is located, I would completely open the thermostatic heads;
7) Now all you need to do is turn on the stove and select the power at which it should operate so that it has the highest efficiency and ensures heating of all rooms.
When using thermostatic heads, orifice does not give the expected results because the head maintains a constant temperature (within the hysteresis range). This worked when thermostatic heads were not used.

Added after 29 [minutes]:

wertiko7 wrote:

Please be clearer, because I don`t know anything about heating technology.

Throttling is the throttling of the flow of CO liquid to individual radiators in rooms. Regulation like in a tap, the liquid flows in a smaller or larger stream.

deg wrote:

Grzegorz Siemienowicz: Thermostatic control on radiators should not be used in a room with a room controller sensor.

That`s why I wrote to open them completely.
You can also dismantle the head itself, but the effect will remain the same.
Crimping in systems that operate continuously and are equipped with thermostatic heads on radiators is pointless. This is basically required when thermostatic heads are not used to control the distribution of CO between rooms.

Grzegorz. Fencing makes SENSE because, apart from the fact that all rooms heat up relatively evenly, we do not waste energy on pushing water to places where it is unnecessary. Higher comfort of use, the installation is quieter and lower operating costs.

Crimping is best done by setting the appropriate "number" on the thermostatic valve. If there are no thermostatic valves - you can use the return valves (as my friend wrote earlier - with an Allen key). Throttling involves throttling the flows on individual radiators in such a way that more water flows to others. Water is "stupid" and will always choose the shortest path with the least resistance, which is why it is often cooler on the upper floor or in some rooms and too warm in others. Where it is too warm, reduce the flow on the radiator so that more water goes to cooler places. Briefly.

kabee84 wrote:

Grzegorz. Fencing makes SENSE because, apart from the fact that all rooms heat up relatively evenly, we do not waste energy on pushing water to places where it is unnecessary. Higher comfort of use, the installation is quieter and lower operating costs.

I use thermostats at home and I still don`t see the point in circling them.
To make it more fun, I use it both when the gas furnace with a room regulator is turned on and when the solid fuel stove without control is running.
After reaching the temperature set on the head, the valve controlled by it is closed, so that no CO medium flows through the given radiator until the head opens it again.
If you didn`t use orifices, you wouldn`t be able to achieve (like in my case) all the thermostatic heads turning on and off at the same time... and even if you did, the situation would be worse for the pump than when they closed and opened. individual valves.
It is possible that ruffing could be effective if the weather sensor was not in the room that loses heat the fastest, but...... this would be at the expense of the room with the sensor heating up much slower.

That`s not quite the point. A very correctly performed installation (very well selected radiators to the dimensions of the rooms, well "graded" pipe diameters taking into account resistances, etc.) does not require flange, or at least we will not feel it directly. Crimping has a very significant impact when our installation is done "by mistake". But despite everything, orifice makes sense - among other things - because of the electricity consumption of the circulation pump. Why should the same number of liters of water flow per minute through a 600x400 radiator as through a 600x2000 radiator? The installation should heat evenly, regardless of whether the radiator is turned off by the thermostatic valve or not. Valves are intended to be only a dietary supplement, not a prescription drug....

In my kitchen, CO flows through the radiator for approximately 10 minutes and for 1.5 hours (90 minutes) the thermostat is closed. If I reduced the flow, I would extend the valve opening time without changing the time when the thermostat is closed. It`s probably natural unless... you think otherwise.
So where is the saving?
PS
The pump motor consumes more electricity and heats up more when it works under a higher load, i.e.... if we orifice (reduce the patency because we probably do not drill the pipes), we create artificial resistance to flow.

Correct me if I`m wrong but... with justification.

I think the same, the thermostat is a way of extracting money from "suckers", what does the water flow through the radiator matter when the thermostat is screwed down? if we screw it on, the water flows slower through the radiator, so it cools down and comes back cooler, not warmer, so the stove must heat it up - maybe it`s not?
Additionally, why buy a thermostat for PLN 40 when you can screw the nut on or off or tighten it depending on the desired temperature. After all, the thermostat will not unscrew itself and the price for it is probably adequate to the amount of scrap they put in it

Please correct spelling errors.
mod - mirrza

And this is where you are wrong.
By setting the flow of the heating medium using a screw or an orifice, you permanently set the power that the radiator will give out, of course taking into account the differences in radiator-ambient temperatures (Δt). This is, in simple terms, how it works.
However, when using a thermostatic head, you set the desired room temperature. After the room is heated, the thermostatic valve closes the flow, the boiler "sees" less demand, stops heating - consumes less fuel and money.
In the so-called comfortable temperature range of 18°-25°C, heating the room by 1°C consumes approximately 6% of fuel. The thermostatic valve will not allow this. She takes care of your money like a wife.
Regards

laptop-tops. First, read how the "thermostat" works. You cannot set the temperature with the cap. Anyway, irus.m explained it quite nicely in a nutshell.

>>10316670
What if the temperature in the room with the sensor is too high?

>>11856591
How does the boiler see less demand and stop heating?