malinaa6692000 wrote: how you can easily limit the heat, that is, screwing it down
It would be best to install a thermostatic valve at the top of the elbow instead, which, in combination with the thermostatic head, would automatically close the valve or open it to maintain the desired temperature in the room.
But this requires calling a specialist who will make the appropriate modification.
roman 18 wrote: Back, this is the bottom of the radiator, you have a nut on this angle valve, under the nut there is a screw for an Allen key 6 or 8
Complementing.
@ malinaa6692000 Just be careful, because some "old" valves like to leak, so as long as you do not move it is OK but if you turn the screw with an Allen key, some of them can pee with water because they are leaky.
Prepare a cloth prophylactically so that there is no surprise.
Some valves have a locking plate preventing the allen from being unscrewed completely, but some of them do not have such a counter, so if you want to open the radiator again, be careful not to unscrew the allen too much, because it will flood your room.
Usually such valves allow for about 5 full turns counting from full closure.
I usually adopted the rule that the screw in which you insert the hexagon socket should not protrude beyond the outline of the hole in which it is screwed in, preferably that the edge of the screw should be slightly screwed in.
You will unscrew the cap and you will see how it is today.
For the test, close the valve completely and count the number of turns so that you can return to the starting point if necessary.
roman 18 wrote: turn this screw clockwise to limit the flow
@ malinaa6692000 It is worth remembering that this is a manual adjustment, i.e. if you screw it too tight, when it cools down, the radiator may heat too little and then you will need to unscrew this screw.
Screwing is best done once a day, because sometimes you have to wait longer for the effects, especially if you have an overheated room now.
As I wrote above, first turn to the maximum and count the number of turns, if it will be e.g. 4.5 turns, then write this value and for the test, open the radiator by half the original value, i.e. 2.25 turns and see if the radiator will be warm for you optimally.
Then, based on trial and error, you have to combine it and, if necessary, unscrew it in the event of frost.
Write down the number of revolutions for given frosts and the temperature you got in the room, it will be easier for you to find the optimal settings.
Added after 12 [minutes]: malinaa6692000 wrote: I don't know much about it, I don't even know what to tighten, please help me.
The necessary elements for adjusting the heat output of the radiator are shown only in 1 photo.
You have a fixed elbow at the top, so nothing can be adjusted there, but as I wrote, you can install a thermostatic valve there if it's your apartment and your installation.
If you only rent a place, the only way to adjust it is the hex key at the bottom after unscrewing this small nut, if it is impossible to unscrew by hand, you need to use the appropriate wrench / pliers, etc.
The next photos show an air vent at the top. You unscrew this little screw with a square head with a special radiator bleed key to be bought in building / plumbing stores for a few zlotys or with a flat screwdriver if you need to bleed the system and the radiator. Then, in the white plastic housing of this vent, you can see a small hole and water seeps through it or air escapes if the heater is air-tight.
You can unscrew it for the test and put a cup of cream, etc., because this operation of the heater may be useful in the future.
