Conduit Wiring: Choosing Wire Cross-Section & Diameter for Lighting, Sockets & Garage Door

Hello, a trivial topic that is often troublesome.

In the backyard garage, a few years ago, someone decided to put the wires in conduits and plaster them. However, the installation was never completed, because no one could connect it.
At the moment I would like to fight this, but I need help with a few issues.

1. What cross-section or diameter (so that I can measure with a caliper) wires should be let go? I think that according to all the truths, 1.5 mm ^ 2 cross-section (about 1.4 diameter) is enough for lighting circuits. However, the problem arises here that it is planned to hang several lamps in one part (such as for two fluorescent lamps), it is not known whether they will be turned on all at once or not, but this scenario must be taken into account. What about other circuits? Those.network sockets and a circuit for connecting the automaton to the garage door. Are 2.5 mm ^ 2 wires (1.9 mm average) sufficient here? I am afraid that, for example, by connecting a 3 kW single-phase induction heater, and for example, a grinder and a drill, the wires may at least heat up. I'm right?
I am sending a quick drawing of what it should look like.



Green - automatic gates
Yellow - light sources
Red - network sockets

1, 2, 3 are room numbers.

There is to be a three-phase connection to the garage, so I thought that it would be possible to bite the topic like this: phase 1 as a power supply for mains sockets and the gate machine in room 1, phase 2 as a power supply for mains sockets and the gate machine in room 2, and a 3-phase power supply in room no. room 3 and all lighting. Does this make sense?

2. What is the most effective way to replace / add conduits in conduits that are already plastered (you have to take into account 90 degrees angles!)?

Thank you in advance for your answers, I would like to add that I am not a complete layman in the subject, but I do not have much experience with electrical installations.

best regards

Kamilpl123 wrote:

I am afraid that, for example, by connecting a 3 kW single-phase induction heater, and for example, a grinder and a drill, the wires may at least heat up.

If they are well protected with an appropriate switch, they will not heat up, in the event of an overload the circuit breaker will disconnect the circuit. A cable with a cross-section of 2.5mm ^ 2 can be secured with a 16A fuse, so about 3.5kW of power can be loaded.

Kamilpl123 wrote:

2. What is the most effective way to replace / add conduits in conduits that are already plastered (you have to take into account 90 degrees angles!)?

The conduit has a correspondingly larger diameter than the conduit? The conduit in the conduit is loose?

Kamilpl123 wrote:

There is to be a three-phase connection to the garage, so I thought that it would be possible to bite the topic like this: phase 1 as a power supply for mains sockets and the gate machine in room 1, phase 2 as a power supply for mains sockets and the gate machine in room 2, and a 3-phase power supply in room no. room 3 and all lighting. Does this make sense?

What value is the protection on the power supply?

Kamilpl123 wrote:

2. What is the most effective way to replace / add conduits in conduits that are already plastered (you have to take into account 90 degrees angles!)?

Legend has it that someone once did.

Kamilpl123 wrote:

2. What is the most effective way to replace / add conduits in conduits that are already plastered (you have to take into account 90 degrees angles!)?

The pilot But two turns max. Or you attach new ones to the old ones and pull out the old ones and pull in new straight ones

Thank you for your response
The case looks like this, I will reply to the posts one by one from the top.

To my colleague kosmos99:

The cables are loose, but it depends where, you can definitely cram an extra one, but it will be difficult.
Regarding power protection? You mean my colleague about overcurrent? I was thinking about the C20 x3.

xury:

Legend says a friend, but I'll try to try.

maziar1000:

Which pilot does a colleague recommend? Maybe a specific link? How do they differ (except for the company and length).

best regards

Kamilpl123 wrote:

Hello, a trivial topic that is often troublesome.
....

2. What is the most effective way to replace / add conduits in conduits that are already plastered (you have to take into account 90 degrees angles!)?

In my life, I would not decide to revive the corpse. You will start combining with the use of old wires and cables, and when you finish and start taking final measurements, it turns out that someone has drilled some wire somewhere and the whole thing is not working. The sly loses twice.
If I am to be sure of what I am doing, I do it myself, all over again, without looking at any leftovers. And I am not interested in dragging wires into plastered conduits, because it is a Sisyphean task.

Hmm, according to the drawing I posted in the first post, in room 2 there are plastered walls, and the switchboard as if to be in room 1, which is not plastered. So nothing is lost until the end. However, to let go of the wires from room 1 to room 2 I encounter one angle of 90 degrees, is this a job to be done or not? To add one wire there? It will be easier to tear the conduits from an unplastered room as from a plastered one, right?

First of all, it is not a switchgear but a switchgear. If you do not know what it is, you are very ignorant of electrical topics. I advise you not to do any installation yourself. You will not be able to avoid mistakes.

If my colleague thinks so, I respect his opinion, but the lack of knowledge of precise names or terminology is due to the fact that I did not pay much attention to objects related to power grids. Well, I can only say that I will try to do it myself, thank you for the criticism and for your help.

Another small digression that I noticed here on the forum. If someone does not know something or is sure, most often they are referred to a specialist who I suspect that they also do many things on the "feel" or to books. This is politics.

Regards Kamil

Kamilpl123 wrote:

Another small digression that I noticed here on the forum. If someone is not fully aware of something or is sure, they are usually referred to a specialist

And when your tooth hurts, do you go to the dentist or the blacksmith? Or you tear yourself out with pliers and ask on the forum how to do it ...?

Kamilpl123 wrote:

Another small digression that I noticed here on the forum. If someone does not know something or is sure, most often they are referred to a specialist who I suspect that they also do many things on the "feel" or to books. This is politics.

So I will explain to you. A responsible man, seeing someone who uses incorrect terms, knows immediately that this someone does not pay attention to small things, to details. And just like a doctor who does not give you a prescription over the phone because he knows that a diagnosis without knowing about the details may be wrong, a responsible electrician will not give you an answer. Because only dilettantes have simple ways to solve problems. If the installation was a thing for the ignorant people, nobody would go to school, what for? You will take two old strings, attach a light bulb to them and it will glow! Therefore, real electricians go to schools to know and understand how it all works and to predict the consequences of their decisions, because mistakes can threaten the safety of other people who are unaware of anything.
And I do not want to contribute to someone else's death or loss of health. Take it on your conscience, as you have already boldly announced.

I understand it all very well, I will add that during the classes they said: "You should not be afraid of installation, and it is not that difficult". Well, as you can see, according to you, it is difficult, and if you have a minimal idea of it (as I mentioned, networks and installations are not my strongest side), there is no chance of correcting it, even if you write: don't do it, because the result will be this and that, then it will be best to do it and so on.

Maybe a colleague retrofood is right and it should be left to a specialist. I will do that too.

I consider the topic completed.