Connecting 7.2kW Induction Hob & 3kW Oven: 3-Phase Socket vs 230V with Kettle & Fridge in Circuit

Hello, I have a question about connecting an induction hob with a power of max. 7.2kW and an oven with a power of 3kW.

I have a 3-phase socket in the wall and now my question is whether the hob and the oven must be connected to a 3-phase socket together, read only the plate, and the oven to 230V.

The problem is that I have the plate (where phase 3) on the other side of the wall as the oven, but I can pull the cable to the other side, but is it necessary?

If I plug the oven into a regular 230V socket in the kitchen and the oven, electric kettle and fridge will work in one circuit, will all the standard installation in the kitchen last?

Greetings,
Jonathan

A typical single-phase socket (plug too) is able to withstand a load of up to 10 A. An oven with a power of 3 kW consumes a little more (when fully started). Installation in perfect condition (1.5mm?) withstands more, but the circuit can be protected with max. 16 A, so in total, the circuit should not be loaded more than 4 - roma kW - then without a plug-socket connection only through the installation strip (cube). I advise you to pull it by force.

only now to which phase to connect this oven ??

Connection diagram of the hob

When the hob is connected to phase 1 and 2, connect the oven to phase 3.

And 3rd phase is brown which is compact with blue? because something's wrong with me.

Maybe someone will write to me what wires should I connect with the contact, green-yellow-blue-brown? it makes no sense because blue and brown are compact?

If you have new equipment, I advise you to order a fitter with home permissions, because you must have the fitter's seal in the warranty anyway

It will be a company to install the equipment, but I want to prepare the sockets, and now, before painting, how to do something, a socket for the oven and pull the wire from the 3-phase

Listen to the mirofalcon, if not, I will explain to you. The board works on two phases, the third is not needed. Everything is in the diagram - N is connected to the operating zero in the installation (it should be a blue wire, but you need to check it), PE protective conductor (yellow - green) is connected to the same in the installation. If there are no two separate zeros in the installation (old installations were four-wire), then both N and PE are bridged with one zero. The other L1 and L2 are connected to any two phase conductors From the oven N and PE the same, and the third wire (not blue N or yellow - green PE) to the third unused phase.

I will stick to the topic and ask about one thing from my esteemed colleagues. I am familiar with buying an induction hob Link with a power of 5.6 kW. my question is about connecting this device. I have a power socket nearby (3 phases, zero and protection), but the power cord is YDY 5x2.5mm. is it safe to connect this board to such a cable?
greetings

For a power of 5.6 kW it is enough with a large margin.

basgol wrote:

For a power of 5.6 kW it is enough with a large margin.

thanks mate warmly. I have one more question; what maximum power can i connect the hob to this socket so that it is safe?
greetings

It depends whether you are connecting two or three phase. If you use three phases, you can load up to 10 kW, with two-phase up to about 7 kW, these are safe loads.

There are no three-phase boards, and as there are some few models, the third phase powers the electronics. In addition, the heating zones work on 230V.

Always the left side of the plate is one phase and the right side is the other. We will use the third phase for the oven.

I am at the stage of selecting an induction hob and all those I watched from the bottom can be powered with one phase, two or three. I have the ability to connect the board to three phases, so I will. I understand that with this type of power supply and with the cross-section of the power cable 5x2.5mm square, I can connect a 10kW board. I understand that I can load one 2.5mm square wire with the power of about 3kW, right?
the fact that the fields work on 230V seems to be logical, but this is why power is used with two or three phases so as not to load one wire with such high currents - this is my reasoning. when it comes to 230V, the voltage between the "0" cable and each phase is 230V, and between two phases 230Vx?3 or 400V. I still remember this from school.
thank you all for advice, information and opinions.
Best wishes

I will add that some boards actually have 3 phases connected to the connector, but only two can be physically used and the third connector is only to plug in the cable there so that it does not fall over the housing.

Check carefully whether the selected three-phase connection diagram contains certainly the description of 3 x 400 V? , because often a three-phase connection applies to marine or military networks marked with the description 3 x 230 V? , where the voltage between the phases is 230 V and connecting according to of this schematic the 3 x 400 V network gets a big buum !!

the board will be connected by an authorized electrician. I just want to find out about the possibility of connecting the device, the permissible power of the device, in order to safely use this equipment before buying it.
since the boards are powered by only two phases, what maximum power can my board have to safely connect it to the socket, which is powered by a 5x2.5 YDY cable?
greetings

In this case (as I wrote above) it can be up to 7 kW (8 kW will also last), moreover, a licensed electrician will certainly know.

Virtually all commercially available plates can be connected to an installation made with such a cross-section. Of course, we are talking about connecting 2 x 230V.

basgol wrote:

In this case (as I wrote above) it can be up to 7 kW (8 kW will also last), moreover, a licensed electrician will certainly know.

it is a pity that it will only be spoken when it is already bought.

samsu100 wrote:

Virtually all commercially available plates can be connected to an installation made with such a cross-section. Of course, we are talking about connecting 2 x 230V.

this is the information I meant. Thanks.

greetings

after a few months of using the album, I can say that it fully met my and my wife's expectations. even electricity bills did not increase by more than PLN 50 / month.
now my question, of course regarding this album. This plate is connected to the electric network with cables with a cross-section of 2.5mm2. The cooking zones are divided in such a way that the left two are powered from one phase, and the right two from the other, the third one is known to the oven. when on one side (on one phase) there are two pots and both fields are turned on, one of them (always with less power) as if waving. waving consists in continuously, evenly switching on and off the induction currents, but as I wrote earlier, only in the field of less power. in practice, the field heats up 1.5 seconds, and the next 1.5 seconds does not heat up all the time. of course, what is in the smaller field will be cooked, but I do not know if this is the correct operating mode of the induction hob. changing pots, increasing their diameters and the like does not help. pots, of course, intended for the induction hob.
greetings

It just so happens that I am also buying induction - specifically TEKA IR 641 (I would have to install gas in a new apartment - which would take several months and eat up several thousand hence the profitability of connecting questionable - at least for the next few years). I have a question here - I would like to connect this board myself - I am an automation specialist and I have the power to 15kV and connecting 4 or 5 cables is not a problem.
And here is my main question - do I have to look for an electrical installer who will stamp this stamp and how much can it cost me to have a valid warranty? It's a bit annoying - because I don't have an electrical installer stamp and I don't have any friend who would have such a stamp.

It just so happens that yesterday I called the portfolio asking what qualifications an electrician must have to raise the guarantees. It turned out that SEP E 1kV qualifications are enough and you do not need to have a stamp, only a photocopy of permissions is enough.
By the way, I have a question because in the manual of this board it says "When connecting the device, make sure to prepare an installation that allows disconnecting the device from the mains (switching off all poles) with a contact gap of at least 3 mm by means of a contact - a wide opening.
for this purpose, the LS-contact, fuses and contactors are used.

minoor wrote:

It just so happens that yesterday I called the portfolio asking what qualifications an electrician must have to raise the guarantees. It turned out that SEP E 1kV qualifications are enough and you do not need to have a stamp, only a photocopy of permissions is enough.
By the way, I have a question because in the manual of this board it says "When connecting the device, make sure to prepare an installation that allows disconnecting the device from the mains (switching off all poles) with a contact gap of at least 3 mm by means of a contact - a wide opening.
for this purpose, the LS-contact, fuses and contactors are used.

This is a matter of gibberish from some unsuccessful translation. The point is that after disconnecting the power supply, the distance between the contacts of this device should be at least 3 mm apart. Something like this is ensured by the so-called flat automatic machines / fuses from German LS (Leitungsschutzschalter) http://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Leitungsschutzschalter http://pl.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wy%C5%82%C4%85cznik_instalacyjny