Camshaft Sensor Error DF119 in Megane II, 2.0 dci 150KM 2006: Diagnostic & Possible Solutions

Hello and welcome. I will try to describe the problem as accurately as possible, and I would appreciate any advice, because I'm running out of ideas. Megane II, 2.0 dci 150KM engine, 2006. Error DF119 lights up at the moment of firing - that is, a camshaft error. 1DEF or 2DEF lights up alternately after the error has been cleared. When the engine is running, the error is displayed on the CLIP in red. I checked the wires from the sensor to the motor controller - they are OK. The voltage at the sensor is 12V. Impulses are generated on the middle pin - checked with a meter and a LED. The plug did not contact, so the contacts were bent - now it's OK. The sensor was replaced with another one just in case, also without results. Shaft sensor - OK, after disconnecting it, the engine goes off. The car was purchased with this defect, so I do not know how this defect occurred. What else could I check to resolve this issue. Regards

Check the timing setting.

Well, only that this engine has a chain and to get there I would have to pull it out so that's why I'd rather make sure I can do something else first, because checking the timing is the last resort. I read on foreign forums that these cases were usually solved by replacing the software in the controller, but I do not know how to do this either. Maybe someone can guide me or I can come up with something else here. Because I'm leaving these two cases as a last resort for now.

Hello. Today I checked what are the differences with the disconnected camshaft sensor, here is the photo:

and version II with the sensor connected:

My question is whether the values: the position of the camshaft and the position of the engine flywheel should be the same? What do you think about these parameters? Should I look for another camshaft sensor or is the error caused by a shifted timing? What opinion please.

Have you noticed it getting an error on startup?

What does this mean?

For me, a binder, a tensioner and sliders.

Yes yes I know. The error clears and literally as soon as the starter makes the first revolutions, a permanent error appears (status usually 2DEF - red). The timing in this engine is on a chain, (please confirm to me if the chain is a different kind of gear?) From what I have learned, the engine in this car was replaced. I put the car back together, but I can't deal with this topic. I am asking you for more details, what else can I check from electronics? Slowly it dawns on me that I checked rather everything possible and the timing remained. Do you have to remove the engine to get to the timing belt on this car? Is there any other way?

You have a good sensor, the problem may be in the synchronization of the camshaft with the crankshaft.
Check the timing - knowing the ideas of Renault engineers, all gears will be smooth without wedges. You will need timing locks to set it as the manufacturer set it.
Shifting even by 1mm is a lot and an error will pop up right away.

Added after 1 [minutes]:

You don't have to take the engine out.

With this synchronization, it is also not very clear to me, because when turning the starter, an error pops up and in the error context window there is information about the lack of synchronization, and in another place there is information that the synchronization has been made. Please tell me how to get to this chain? Between the engine and the right fender, it is practically impossible to put your hand, not to mention any key, so even if you fix the locks, how do you go about switching, if I understand correctly, you need to remove the chain for this operation, set the wheels on the locks and put the chain back on, or so ?

Added after 21 [minutes]:

I am asking for info if the timing on the chain could really move - jump? How is this possible ?

timing on the chain theoretically has no right to jump, sometimes the tensioner jams, but it's a failure, the chain can also stretch, e.g. standard in petrol micras or VW with TSI engines
I would suspect a bad setting during recent repairs

Yeah, I have that suspicion too. The engine was postponed for an unknown reason and I also have no knowledge of what was done when inserting the second engine, maybe it was just something buried in the timing. vw82 - will you guide me how to go about this work? What is the way to set this chain without pulling the engine? Does the engine need to be disassembled too? Or only on the side? I can't find a manual for this M9R engine anywhere. Today I will ask the mechanics what kind of money they would like for this work.

Added after 4 [minutes]:

One more question. Is it possible to drive it gently with this state of affairs (engine starts) or is there a chance of bending the valves, etc?

If they were to bend, it would already be over.

timing kit for 2.0 dci
It looks like this


as you can see the lower wheel is a small wedge
it's bigger on the roller in the head has three egg-shaped holes for adjustment and here is the cause more information I will give in a moment but the adjustment is to be made on the car

Added after 1 [hours] 10 [minutes]:

as I promised
you need to buy locks on allegro, they look like this


next (sorry for spelling mistakes, I fix cars/ not a Polish student)

1- remove the pastic floor, support the engine from below + remove the right front wheel with the plastic wheel arch, thus ensuring access to the lower pulley.
2- unscrew the engine mount with the bracket from the timing side
3-unscrew the black metal cover covering the upper timing gear gently pry off the silicone
4-unscrew the aluminum shaft of the pump is on the head on the opposite side of the timing shaft near the high pressure fuel pump
5- turn the lower pulley until the roller lock clicks into the notch on the roller
6-release the 3 screws on the upper camshaft
7- unscrew the plug in the block, it should be at the right shaft - anti-torx key 14
in some cases, the right hemisphere needs to be clarified
8-screw the locking pin, remembering to properly set the lower wheel (nothing fast and forceful)
9-after screwing in the pin, tighten the 3 screws on the upper timing gear
remove the locks, put everything back as it was
10-success guaranteed
if it scares you, I invite you to my workshop in Czestochowa

Thank you for the description. It's really cool and very detailed. Nothing in this car scares me anymore I folded the whole front so I can handle this topic - I think. I will definitely let you know about the effects.

Added after 5 [minutes]:

By the time you replied, I had read quite a bit and seen these blockers. I also found a pretty nice cross-section of the engine and you can see how the chain is guided. There really isn't much philosophy there. The most annoying is access to this part of the engine, but if it can be done without pulling it, I will stick to it In a nutshell, we block the bottom and the adjustment is on the floating gear wheel from the rollers. As for the right axle shaft, it was also pulled out, because the predecessor pressed it incompetently and oil flowed through the o-ring in the box Theoretically, nothing terrible, and in practice we'll see Regards

Buddy vw82. I have one more request for you. Is the plug from the connecting rod lock for sure at the rear of the engine (in the area of the right half-axle)? I looked at the engine from the canal (so far I haven't removed the wheel arch), but I didn't see any plugs. There is only a shaft sensor in the box area and going further to the right there is a mounting (holding) of the exhaust, then a bearing from the axle shaft and an oil sensor. Could you give me more details on where to look for this plug? Ok Thursday I should have locks

buddy, it should be near polish, the plug is a simple screw on anti-torx14 as I remember
because in older engines 1.9 dci and 1.5 dci this plug was under the starter

Added after 1 [minutes]:

when the blockades come to you, you will have instructions and obraski where to do it and greet you

Moderated By Przemo9826:

A colleague will take care of his spelling, according to the rules you have accepted:

Statute

3.1.13. (10.9, 15) It is forbidden to publish entries that violate the rules of spelling of the Polish language, careless and incomprehensible.

The lock enters on the front of the engine, it's under the starter.

The engine is gone, I can't see the disassembly of the cover on the car, the damn screws, and this silicone like window glue .... Unless the predecessors glued it to another.

Ok, thanks for the info, I'll take a look tomorrow and let you know if I found it.

If the shaft lock will have to be inserted from the front, I will rather have to remove the entire front, because the accessories with the radiator cover the entire view - access. I found on the net photos of the M9R engine (I don't know if it's a 700).
engine front:

engine rear:

If anyone could point out where the shaft lock is screwed in, I'd be grateful.

Przemo - Thank you, really great stuff. As soon as I receive the blocks, I get to work and let you know about the effects. May it be a timing issue

Hello. Today I went to work. I attach a photo where the connecting rod lock is located in the M9R 700 engine (maybe it will be useful to someone) - it is next to the air conditioning compressor:



I set the connecting rod so that the marks more or less match, I screwed in the connecting rod lock, the connecting rod resting on the lock and the upper roller lock cannot be inserted (it does not fit perfectly on both rollers), i.e. the timing is shifted. However, I have a question about the short chain, in my case it is quite loose (it can be bent about 1-1.5 cm) I attach photos:



Is it normal ? Could it be that the chain is stretched? And please pay attention to the gear wheel from the pump - is it not worn too much?
And one more question - is the oil pump also adjusted? Is it irrelevant and I tighten the pulley without knowing how the oil pump is set?

Snout, I see, you only undressed, and this is 70% of disassembling the engine ;)

The pump is fine, you don't have to set anything.

And a colleague will also get acquainted with the basic construction of the engine, because the connecting rod does not rest against the lock ...

Przemo - better just write what resists, because my hands just fell slightly. Imagine that the timing is set to lock (on the bank according to the drawings, i.e. the bottom is blocked, the signs are as shown in the drawings, the top is on the lock (now it enters nicely as it should) twisted tightly as it should and after firing, error DF119 (only now it catches it a bit faster because already at 200 with a small hook of engine revolutions). Is it still a timing issue? One mechanic also told me that this error can be generated by injectors - the error occurs because the engine spins too long on the starter - what do you think? similarly, should they let through at a stop?There are different opinions on this subject.

Leave these returns alone, they are not electromagnetic injectors, you have such a valve on the returns, it is supposed to maintain 10 bar if I remember correctly.

I have no idea, did you replace the sensor? Also, take the valve cover off and check that the shaft is ok.

I took off all the accessories from above along with the vacum, but the cover is glued to the same black glue as the timing cover, so I gave up for the time being. What could be wrong with these rollers? As for me, it's logical that if the impulses are generated and the vacuum works, there can be nothing damaged there - am I doing it right? As for the camshaft position sensor, I had it of unknown origin, maybe it would be wiser to just buy a new one? I don't know anymore. Save Przemo - any ideas - what about this cover - what could be expected there?

I disassembled this engine a long time ago, and I don't remember if there are wedges there....

Look at this:

I was wondering if sometimes someone had moved the shafts relative to each other, but I moved the gear wheel with the chain slightly from the shaft and the part that is visible in your drawing (left shaft) is its permanent part and if the lock fits, the shafts must be set correctly in relation to each other. Is that what you meant? Honestly, I read somewhere about these wedges, but I don't really know where to check it? If I could ask you, write a bit more extensively and more in layman's terms, because I don't catch everything here on the fly, but I learn quickly In your opinion, does it make sense to jerk off with this valve cover and take a look at what it all looks like there?

The point is whether the wheel has a wedge in it that fits into the groove in the shaft, if there is a wedge, there is no possibility of incorrect assembly of the wheel on the shaft, unless the wedge has been cut off, if the wheel is so-called. you can put the floating wheel in any place.

With this hood, the point is to check what is rotating "in front of the sensor", I don't remember if there is a gear on the shaft, thanks to which the sensor determines the position of the shaft.

Przemo - in my opinion, the gear wheel is floating - you can put it on the shaft as you want:


As for the sensor, it is unscrewed and when turning the shaft you can see how the shaft moves and the places where the sensor reads the impulses - everything looks whole. In addition, when the engine was assembled, I had an LED connected and the LED flashes on the middle pin of the sensor, so the sensor reads impulses. So it seems logical to me that it is OK - what do you think?

Added after 5 [minutes]:

One more thing about this sprocket - because it is floating, you need this lock, because thanks to it you can be sure that the shafts are set correctly in relation to each other, there is a mark on the chain, and on the sprocket there is a dot that coincides with the mark on chain, there is a vertical mark on the right shaft (as it should be) and a lock fits on both shafts, so you can't set it wrong.

This right wheel may be without a wedge, but I emphasize that I am not sure.

On the left wheel, you loosen these 3 bolts on the mounted lock, put on the chain, unlock the tensioner and then tighten them, the counterweight on the crankshaft must always rest on the lock.

Also pay attention to item no. 20 in one of the photos I posted, the line is not perfectly aligned, it is a little below the shaft axis.