Lead Acid Car Battery Regeneration Methods: Desulfation, Rinsing, Effectiveness?

I have a question, are there any ways to regenerate lead (car) batteries, e.g. desulfation, rinsing. How exactly is it done and how effective is it?

Don't bother with regeneration and desulfation of the battery, it's a waste of time and nerves - how old is the battery?

Regards.

This battery is 2 years old and 1.5 years old, they don't have a short circuit on any of the cells, but their damn capacity dropped 10 times with a starter and it crashes immediately.

Hello
this will surely help...
1: remove the old electrolyte (pour it .. only where - a question for an ecologist)
2: flood the battery cells with distilled water and connect the charger
(usually max. charging current 1/10 of battery capacity)
enough for the whole night - it is designed to: remove deposits, cleansing
plates, etc.... and purge the liquid from the cells again
It is recommended to perform this operation twice.. you will see for yourself how much crap can be there
3: flood the cells (to the desired level) with ready-made electrolyte (a solution of sulfuric acid and distilled water) which is usually available in automotive stores - I hope you don't mind mixing it yourself.
4: connect the battery to the charger and charge it
It really depends on the condition of the battery
Mine worked much better anyway
watch out for your eyes, hands and clothes are acid!!!
best regards good luck

mkubol wrote:

This battery is 2 years old and 1.5 years old, they don't have a short circuit on any of the cells, but their damn capacity dropped 10 times with a starter and it crashes immediately.

At 2 years old, he should still be in great shape! I threw my Megan after 6 years, and the battery was still good, only in winter, when it stood a little in the cold -15, its capacity sat down. Check the electrolyte level (if it is low, add distilled water), charging in the car and the current consumption from the battery after turning off all receivers (remove the key, turn off the radio, etc.)

The problem will not be the battery, but too low charging voltage. At my older one who drives around the city with lights and blowing, he also went on strike in winter, but the battery is still original, i.e. from spring 1998 :)

ps. at idle the voltage should be at least about 14V and after gassing 14.3-14.5V. Maybe your belt is slipping?

sorry
the author of the news - he writes clearly about the problem related to the regeneration of the used battery - so I gave him one of the few, but effective
way to bring him back to life.
we do not know if a given car has an efficient charging system.. I suspect that if there was something wrong ... the appropriate controls would let us know ... although it is not entirely certain
in any case, I wouldn't have known that there was anything wrong ... until ... when ... ... the toddler in the middle of the road did not stop at night after a few hours
driving with lights and wipers on
and everything was fine
Regards

Too low charging voltage will not show any lamp on the board. Only voltmeter measurement. The battery has no right to die after a year and a half of operation, if of course we take care of it. In winter, you should recharge the battery from time to time, especially if you drive short distances. I have a 35Ah center battery in my R19 (I didn't buy it specifically) and it works for over 2 years without any problems. I entered it "for a moment" as an emergency, because in the previous one I lost one cell. He did so well that he stayed. Even in the cold there was no problem with starting. Just the alternator gives me 14.5V and that does the trick.

Thanks for the answers about the electrics of my car, the idle voltage is 14.7V when I turn on all possible receivers (lights, heated windows, blowers, wipers) the voltage drops to 14.4V so that's fine. As for the electrolyte, there is as much as I should care about it. The battery was charged with a very high current because the rectifier control went down and I noticed it only when I replaced the battery. it was hot and bubbling well inside him. As for how to rinse it, I will definitely do it, I will let you know how it turned out. thanks again and best regards.

Nothing will work! Overheated - to be thrown away, not desulfurized.

Regards.

It probably tore the active mass from the plates. Not really salvageable

Flushing helped not that the battery was like new but it spins not bad and it doesn't need anything else. It lasts longer and gives more electricity, but for the winter you still need a new one, thanks for the advice

How can I determine whether the battery is suitable for regeneration, i.e. whether there are no permanent defects that cannot be removed - an internal short circuit or damage to the separator - or something similar???/

Hello.
if you want to check if it is suitable for regeneration, connect the battery to the charger overnight. In the morning, measure the battery voltage and the density of the electrolyte in each cell. If the densities are the same or similar, then such a battery is worth saving. In my three-year-old, two cells died. Despite the voltage of 12.5V, the density of the electrolyte in two cells is contained in the red field of the measuring device electrolyte density - there is probably no rescue for this battery

There used to be plants regenerating batteries - it consisted in melting the plates of the battery (and maybe something else) and here my question is whether, apart from melting the plates, any other activities need to be done?

Sorry for the dig.

This is how to build a new battery with only lead at your disposal.

There is such a thing as an aerometer. It is a glass tube with a rubber bulb and a float inside it, scaled in g/cm or only marked with colors: red, yellow and green. When the battery is discharged, the float dips to the red bar. When well charged, to the green one. by the color of the electrolyte that we take into this pipe, you can determine the condition of the battery. A good battery will have a transparent electrolyte. Sulphated - cloudy milk color. A battery in which the plates are damaged has a brown or black electrolyte. at the bottom of the battery. As long as there is a small amount of it, it does not short-circuit the plates. However, when you try to pour out the old electrolyte, the sediment rises up and can short-circuit the plates. worth the candle, and above all health. Acid fumes have a bad effect on the vocal cords. It's not a joke.
You can buy an aerometer, for example, at a gas station. The price is not scary
and great help.

@Jack14

I mean batteries for an electric vehicle, if I have to buy it every few years, it's not worth it, but if you can regenerate it relatively easily and cheaply, then such a vehicle is the most profitable.

Generally, batteries in which the active mass has not dropped from too long charging, and there are no short circuits in the cell, can be fought by appropriate charging, no need to rinse or replace the electrolyte, I charge such batteries through a 21 watt bulb from the direction of the toddler, the current is fixed at 350mA and depending on the battery capacity, I take breaks in charging every month, two, three, large truck batteries sometimes sit under such a rectifier after half a year. After such charging, the battery recovers 60-70% of its capacity, then I connect a 5 watt bulb to it with which I discharge it to a voltage of 10 volts, after such a discharge, after reconnecting to the rectifier, such a battery can regain its parameters completely, the most susceptible to regeneration in this way are crude truck batteries, regeneration takes a very long time, but the battery fully recovers its parameters Now, at the very end, I will repeat that regeneration makes sense with young batteries, without short circuits and without any fallout of active mass, the less active mass due to fallout, the lower the starting capacity and battery capacity.

Hello.
Battery regeneration is a vague term. Most often it consisted in the fact that the electrolyte was poured out of the faulty battery and the electrodes were removed. After rinsing the vessel, new electrode plates were placed in this place and flooded with new electrolyte. All that was left of the old battery was the casing. I suspect no one cares about that anymore.
Regards.

Today, this method of regeneration is simply unprofitable, batteries are cheap, widely available, and non-dismantleable. It is not even profitable to change the electrolyte, because for the money spent on the electrolyte, you can buy a working battery for scrap. they are scheming, making me laugh out of this world, because after all, how is it to buy a new battery for PLN 200 for a customer, it's a shock

mkubol wrote:

Thanks for the answers about the electrics of my car, the idle voltage is 14.7V when I turn on all possible receivers (lights, heated windows, blowers, wipers) the voltage drops to 14.4V so that's fine. As for the electrolyte, there is as much as I should care about it. The battery was charged with a very high current because the rectifier control went down and I noticed it only when I replaced the battery. it was hot and bubbling well inside him. As for how to rinse it, I will definitely do it, I will let you know how it turned out. thanks again and best regards.

It looks like your voltage regulator has failed, the voltage should not exceed 14.4V. Too high charging voltage can also damage the battery. Measure the voltage at 2000-2500 rpm, if it exceeds 15V, you have the answer why the battery died. The 1.5-year-old battery does not need to be recharged yet, unless the car is parked more than it is driven.

I see this thread from 2005 hasn't gotten old yet.
tzok * thanks for the advice, but I don't have these batteries anymore, I even got rid of the car. Greetings to all, I do not close the topic because I see that it has come to life.

A little information about the production of plates:

http://www.akumulator.pl/aktualnosci/artykuly...mulator-accumulator-step-by-kroku-part-1.html

Are the electrolytes for each battery the same? What should be bought for such (71Ah 670A). The battery is quite old (7 years) will regeneration help?

marekskowro wrote:

Are the electrolytes for each battery the same? What should be bought for such (71Ah 670A). The battery is quite old (7 years) will regeneration help?

It's not worth bothering with him 7 years is already pension .
Regeneration will help a bit, but this battery probably walked with an abscess and is supposed to continue walking in it, so you can skip regeneration.