Drilled Wire in Wall: Safely Repairing Damaged Power Cord for First Floor Plug Sockets (B16)

Hello,

Here is the situation:

Wanting to make two small holes in the wall at the height of the lighting connectors, I found a power cord for plug sockets on the first floor (2 rooms).

When drilling, I saw only 2 sparks and automatically the drill stopped working.

It is known that there was a differential or overcurrent protection.

I went to the electrical cabinet on the ground floor and saw that the B16 "esak" flew out.

I thought: "esiak" flew because I shorted L and N with the drill. If I shorted L and PE or N and PE, a differential would fall out.

When dealing with an electrician on a daily basis (measurement technician - service technician) (not an electrician), I know that in order to sleep peacefully I have to fix it according to the "art"

I went about it this way:

1) Of course, for it to be safe, I turned off the power

2) I made sure there was no tension and began to gently break off the wall to check the condition of the wire that I had drilled through.

3) After the wire is exposed, it turns out that the insulation has been damaged and the phase conductor L (brown) has been partially damaged.

It is known that you cannot do makeshift, I want to sleep well and because I am not an electrician and I do not have much to do with laying installations, but only with measurements, I would like to refer to experienced electricians (because this is probably a forum for this) and ask for help.

How to properly repair a damaged cable so that nothing overheats and that everything is in order?

It is a YDYp 3 x 2.5 cable.

Excessively, it is not an option to replace the entire cable. The apartment is newly renovated and it is not possible to break the walls and break through the ceiling to the switch cabinet.

From the knowledge I have, I would do it like this: (as in the photos)

1) Seating the fi60 box and connect with 2.5mm2 cubes

2) Making an insert and connecting to two cubes - but here the can is rather fi80 or square? How long should the cutout be? Initially, I made one for 8 cm

Or maybe a different solution?

Twisting and soldering are not an option.

I wonder if it would be better to use WAGO quick couplers instead of cubes - they have a load capacity of up to 20, so I guess you can do that too.

I am asking for specific advice - as I wrote, I have no experience in typical assembly work - I am not afraid to do this repair myself, but I would like to know how to repair a damaged cable so that I can sleep peacefully and not have a problem.

I will only add that there are 12 sockets on this circuit and in the future 2 computers with monitors will be connected in this way, a printer, phone chargers, desk lamps, a vacuum cleaner etc.

As you can see in the photos, I have already cut the cable.

I measured the insulation resistance:

Towards the residential switchgear Riso = 2Gom and towards the loads (sockets) Riso => 3Gom

Thus, the insulation of these wires is flawless with the requirements of 1Mom.

I would like the can to be embedded not visible at all - is it possible to embed the can deeper and cover it with the lid and then plaster it immediately?

As far as I know, such a place must be available, but I prefer to be sure.

Ps. The next cable is to the antenna (intact)

Ps2. Can I change it a bit when I put the box on, i.e. cut a groove for this cable from the antenna along? so that it passes through the can without cutting it?

tren90 wrote:

... because I am not an electrician ...

One would like to have such non-electromechanicals. Your course of action is as lucid as possible. You have the right idea of electricity and are unlikely to need a hint. Whatever you do will be fine.
Let's not talk about the superiority of the weight connectors over the ankle (bar) and vice versa, because there will be an unnecessary discussion.

Smaller box = less forging - if you have enough cable (and the photos show that it is) to connect with one cube, I would stay with a single connection ...

And as for filling the can so that it is not visible ?? I don't think there are any problems with that - you won't hide it very deeply and a gentle dragging of the lid with plaster and painting it over will not bother you at all, as long as you remember "in" where it is - although it is also not important if you make the connection correctly.

Thank you.

However, there are some details that I'm not entirely sure about.

e.g.

1) There are myths or not that WAGO should not be used for sockets, others say that this is nonsense - I understand there are pros and cons - but in my case I do not know what will be better, more durable and safer.

2) Whether to make an insertion or just twist one ankle.
If the insert is WAGO or a cube?
If without an insert, it's just a cube or maybe press the sleeves, stretch the heat shrink? (this is also a solution on my mind - but I do not know if it is done this way).
How to make a long cutout? Is it like in the picture or longer?

3) If I do everything as described, will I not feel warm? Will there be no problem? Will it all be done with art?

It is known that after work I will do the insulation and short-circuit loop impedance measurements again.

4) If I put a box p / t fi80 or a square 80x80x45 and give a dedicated cap (white cap), can I easily plaster it and then smooth it with a putty knife and repaint it so that there is no trace?

Ps. Can I cut the box so that I slide it over this antenna cable?

I am in favor of twisted connections. If, when twisting one ankle, there will be no stress in the cable, I will leave only one. If the connection is made solidly, nothing should be heated.

It seems to me that Colleague 19barti78 He wrote enough and there is no need to come up with additional theories. Greetings.

Aren't you too preoccupied with the problem ?? By the way - I understand that you want to sleep peacefully, but with these measurements it seems a bit exaggerated - just treat it as a junction box - after all, such have existed for a long time

Maybe it is right that I worry about it, because I want it to be done properly and also a few tips from more experienced colleagues is also a science for me.

In any case, thanks to everyone for the response and helpful hints.

It's great that you can count on professional help.

Greetings.