Ultimate Speed Charger from Lidl: Switching from 6V to 12V for Scooter Battery Charging

Hello, recently I wanted to charge my fallen battery from a scooter and for this purpose I used the Ultimate Speed charger from Lidl, it seems to be a good charger, because it had the options that it "resurrects" the dead battery. And here the problem started, because I had almost no voltage at all, and this rectifier caught that it was supposed to be 6V and it is still charging it and does not want to switch to 12V.
Do you have any idea how to charge it to 12V?

Disconnect the charger from the battery and from the mains, wait a minute, reconnect and set the correct voltage and charging current. This is what automatons do, they do not want to charge deeply discharged batteries. If it doesn't help, you have to charge it with another rectifier without automation and then with that. It is also possible that your battery, after deep discharge, is only suitable for scrap.

Unfortunately, I did it and still charging, or actually supporting it on 6V. I have 7.01V on the meter. The rectifier can not be changed to 12V, it "supposedly" automatically detects what battery it is.

Added after 24 [minutes]:

I have an older scooter battery and it catches 12V, the older battery showed 10V on the meter. Maybe somehow connect these batteries?

If you do not have another rectifier, charge the older one, then connect the batteries with each other + to + and - to -, preferably through a 12V halogen bulb, so that the equalization current is not too high, so you will charge the newer battery to the voltage at which the rectifier should work .

Thanks for the answer, I'm already trying. I'll be back in a few hours

I quote user Wolfstar:
"... generally I have the same charger myself ... and it took a while before I learned how to use it .. it seems that unfortunately these are simple user manuals for this device and regardless of whether they are original or translated into Polish, they are far from perfect, to put it mildly ... many things about this otherwise very good charger are not included ... so you probably do not have a damaged charger, however, even switching it on requires meeting a few conditions ... a charger of this type will not turn on below a certain temperature and voltage below 7V + - 0.5v, besides, it may seem to be damaged (so-called chirping during operation, showing the end of charging and blinking the red LED ... at this time, impulse charging with high peak voltage at 18V, after which the charging completion indicator light is on, although the battery does not is charged ... then go back to Standby and re-engage landing ... for that there is a changing value of the charging current in the first phase about 3.6A and in the next about 0.8A ..., besides, the method of connecting the charger to the battery is important, the order is simple and you should stick to it first, connect the crocodile clips to the battery and then connect the device to the battery. 230v, wait about 20 seconds and turn it on .. it happens that the device does not want to "surprise" sometimes it requires three times pressing and holding the Mode button after 2-3 seconds ... and if it does not want to start in this way, it requires the battery to be energized. . I have adopted two methods, fast and slow, the fast one involves activating the battery by connecting the power supply for about 60 minutes, about 12v / 1A .. (you can connect for a moment in parallel to the above-mentioned charger and run Ultimate Speed) (personally uses an old power supply from some device ) or slower method (I recommend) pouring about 1/3 of the battery capacity of the electrolyte and filling it with dematerialized water and then connecting Not for about 60 minutes of a 12 / 1a power supply and then the above-mentioned charger which will "" save this battery "itself ... the second method has been tested several times by me (a battery from a 30ah, 8ah .. car 70ah motorcycle and allows you to regain the efficiency of these devices .. they work until today .. the most spectacular battery recovery is the one that stood for about 8 months under the cloud - had clean electrolyte .. and now has been working for about a year ... the time to save this wreck is almost 38 hours ... o other things, ask .. generally it's not a bad device, but undoubtedly fussy, but if it works well ... "
It helped me, the rectifier is great

There is nothing in the manual about the "chirping" and blinking of the diode. I have this situation, the battery has not been charged. I connected another - the same. I am going to advertise it as damaged. Do you confirm the theory of foras1.

My friend fza
From the context of "diode chirping and blinking" described here, I conclude that this is a function called desulphation of a deeply discharged battery. In this program, the charging LED is not constantly on and it flashes - "ticks".
Now the second thing. The charger does not want to charge at 12V because the battery voltage has dropped much below the value of activating the 12V function and sees it as 6V. As it has been described to you, you must first charge your dead man with some ordinary (not electronic) so that he has at least 9V on him. Then when you turn on the lidl, it should enter the desulfurization mode and flash.
By "ticking" you can also specify the voltage sustaining function after charging the battery (the green LED is on and something is ticking inside the charger )
I will not be optimistic about adding that your battery is most likely suitable for disposal.
I am going through this topic with a small AGM battery, which is not even a year old, and which I have forgotten about, and attempts to resuscitate this charger do not give any effect - zero capacity.
greetings

I had the same problem with the motorcycle battery.
Unfortunately, I connected it to the charger too late - the charger did not want to switch to the 12V mode.

I connected the battery for about 10-15 minutes to an ordinary charger. After such a procedure, the Lidlow charger surprised and recharged the battery.

Question:
If someone does not have access to an old-fashioned rectifier (because, of course, he bought a "modern" one), what is another home way to increase the voltage in a discharged battery so that the automatic rectifier will charge to 12V?
Can I use a rechargeable car battery?

MACIEK_M wrote:

connect the batteries with each other + to + and - to -, preferably via a 12V halogen bulb

Is this a safe way? Do I have to disconnect the clamps in the car first?

depsima wrote:

Quote:

Is this a safe way? Do I have to disconnect the clamps in the car first?

Yes, it is a safe way, the bulb acts as a charging current limiter.

I do not understand it, you buy equipment, use a technical language and you cannot afford a meter for PLN 20, after all, you have to measure your experiments, the key parameter here is the voltage and history of the battery, each battery behaves in its own way, apparently the word intelligent charger is a pseudo phrase.

My friend morcin2
For starters, finding the number of vehicles in the first person. is spelling I understand , not understands . I'm sorry, but I draw your attention to this because it is as glaring to me as any other spelling mistake that has become very common for some time.
The second thing. Why do you assume we can't afford the measure? Where is it written, or from what do you conclude that no one has measured anything? Unfortunately, there is contempt in the tone of your speech. You joined the thread on a "they-stupid, me-expert" basis, without bringing anything of value to the topic at all. That's it.

Regarding disconnecting the clamps, I never do. Even more so, I would not do it when connected through an incandescent lamp, which, as described above, is supposed to limit the current flow. For example, firing one from the other with jumper cables is a greater risk of damaging the electronics, and everything is fine. Nota bene, disconnecting the battery from the car's installation can also mess with the car's electronics. These are today's "delicately" cars

Hello everyone and allow me to throw in my "three cents".
I do not agree with the "theory of not disconnecting" the battery when charging.
Damage to the car's electronics can just happen as a result of overvoltage from the rectifier. If the disconnection resulted in damage to the electronics, it would be impossible to repair the car in any way. In addition, all work on the car in the area of airbags and their sensors absolutely requires disconnecting the battery clamp.
There is no risk in disconnecting the clamp from the ground except for the need to reset the clock.

tw24 wrote:

There is no risk in disconnecting the clamp from the ground except for the need to reset the clock.

And it happens in different ways - there is a risk, however. A neighbor has a Toyota truck and had to call for service after disconnecting the battery. It was impossible to unblock the immobilizer for the hell.
What is certain is that disconnecting the battery will not damage the electronics or anything in the car, but it can cause a lot of trouble, including calling the service technician to start the vehicle.

You can afford to connect the rectifier without removing the clamp, if it is an electronic rectifier with protection (eg CTEK).
My Honda is full of electronics and the manual IS clearly WRITTEN! to disconnect the battery while charging.
With conventional rectifiers with transformers and diodes, the risk of overvoltage or transferring overvoltage from the network is very high.
On the other hand, problems that arise after disconnecting the battery can come from completely different sources. Returning to my Honda, after disconnecting the battery, the automatic window closing function is disabled and you need to "calibrate" through the procedure of closing and opening the window.
I think you need to read the manual sometimes.
Car manufacturers have anticipated situations when electronic systems are de-energized just like any other electronic equipment. Otherwise, discharging the battery, e.g. at low temperatures, would result in calling the service each time. Nobody would buy such a car, would you?
But as life shows, even a simple act of disconnecting the battery can be fatal, which cannot lead to general conclusions.

Hello colleagues,

regarding the abovementioned charger ... well, I have the same and I want to charge it with a 12V 7Ah battery, the meter showed about 10V so it's not "probably" bad with it ...?

The manual says that this charger can save a discharged battery by impulse charging - then the LED blinks red next to the charging icon.

ok, I connect the battery, press mode and it happens - this led blinks, but after 2-3 minutes it stops blinking,
I press mode again and this led blinks again ... and so 3 times after which something that you described as "chirping" starts - the led lights up next to the motorcycle icon (which means charging 12V 0.8A) and at the same time the led blinks green at full battery icon, at the same time you hear the relay engage.

My meter is dead and it shows stupid things so I do not even connect it to check what is happening: /

And here are my questions:

is there something wrongly translated in the manual?
What is the difference between this red LED blinking next to the charging icon and the green LED blinking and blinking next to the charged battery icon while the motorcycle icon lights up?

uf .... I know I wrote, but I don't know whether to look for a 12V 1A power supply or leave it cycling overnight ....

The blinking of the green LED means that the voltage on the battery is sustained by the voltage pulse in the cycle of this relay "ticking" (when the charger completes the charging process and the battery is not disconnected, the sustaining mode is activated). The blinking of the red diode, on the other hand, is a desulphurization process.
Since, as you write, the charger switches to the maintenance mode after a while, it means that the battery has lost its capacity and you most likely will not save it. I feel something like this desulfurization mode with cheap marketing. It was the same in my case.

Perhaps he is dead.
Whenever I was charging a battery that I was sure was OK, both the 7Ah gel and the car battery, the charging process ended with a green led next to the battery charged icon - which I thought ended the charging process.

I have never had a situation where this LED was ticking and blinking.
Or maybe I disconnected the battery too early?

Somehow it looks strange for you or it can be wrongly deduced from the description.
For me, the whole process is as follows:
Flashing the red diode (as if desulphating), then the red diode lights up permanently (normal charging) and finally the green diode lights up, which blinks but so once every 5 or 10 seconds and the relay "cycles", which is maintaining the battery fully charged.

Yes, I think that if the green LED is blinking so often, it may mean that the battery is soooooo dead. The rectifier starts the charging process, but after a while it sees that the battery has reached voltage and turns off the charging (green LED lights up). After a while, however, the battery loses its voltage and the charger switches to the charging or even desulphation mode for a moment. This will give the impression of a green LED blinking. This is what it would look like to me.

_magu_, fact, it looks strange.

How long does it take (on average) to charge the battery. e.g. a 40Ah car charger with such a charger?

I, when I hook the battery from the car (which is really barely spinning), after a few hours (max 6h), this led lights up green with the battery charged and nothing else happens.

I will check again today, with the meter, both batteries that I have
I will unload the battery and connect it to the charger.

One more remark. I noticed it today. Check that the cables connecting the crocodiles are properly tightened. How loose are your charger goes silly.
I had the case that I plugged in the accu today and couldn't turn it on - it kept turning off. I've already started to suspect accu. However, I started researching everything and came across a loose, untightened crocodile clamp.
It is worth remembering about such a detail, because the wires are screwed on, not soldered.
Greetings!

I always check the cables, because you never know when these screws will unscrew.

Yesterday I checked my little 7Ah gel battery ... it looks dead, I will try to save it with the power supply as you described it earlier,

while after connecting the 40Ah car battery, I start charging
and only the led next to the car and the charging led are on,
then the FULL led turns on green and the led next to the car is still on,
after 6h nothing changes so I presume that this is the sustained state,

and chirping with blinking ... it's probably impulse charging, or an attempt to charge a dead battery.

michal.g wrote:

the LED FULL turns on green and the LED next to the car is still on,
after 6h nothing changes so I presume that this is the sustained state,

The answer is YES

Hello
Please help me in October 2012 I bought Ultimate Speed - Lidl, I didn't need to charge the battery. car but I check and it was ok, that is, it showed what is below. In February 2013 I drove very little and akum. I had to take it for charging. The replaced rectifier after switching on shows the car diode in red, and the battery diode. green FULL. But I borrowed another charger from a friend and this one showed that it needs to be recharged, so it landed almost 11 hours. I connected the one from Lidl again and it shows what before and I am in the spot whether it is the fault of the rectifier - whether it exchanges me or a refund. What should I motivate?
thank you in advance for the reply. I MUST GET THESE AMENDMENTS FROM 30 POINTS

Jolatta wrote:

Hello
please help me in October 2012 I bought Ultimate Speed - Lidl, I had no need to recharge the battery. car but I checked and it was ok, that is, it showed what was below. In February 2013, I drove very little and the battery had to be charged. The replaced rectifier after switching on shows the car diode in red and the battery diode in green FULL. But I borrowed another rectifier from a friend and this one showed that you need to charge, so it loaded almost 11 hours. I connected it again with the lidl and it shows what was before and I am in a spot whether it is the rectifier's fault - whether it exchanges me or a refund. What should I motivate?
Thank you in advance for the answer

It is impossible to give a precise answer. On the one hand, it appears that the Lidl rectifier has detected that the battery is fully charged and has entered the "charged" mode, on the other hand, another rectifier recognized that it is not - which also does not mean anything (depends on the type of charger) .
However, maybe it was so that the battery really did not need to be charged - it was just charged (at least it had the correct voltage at its poles and the Lidl rectifier then realizes the state of charge).

Write down if the battery is working properly, i.e. if the car starts or if there are any problems. The fact that you have driven your car so little does not mean that the battery is dead. If you did not drive, for example, for 3 months, the battery would probably need charging. However, after a month or two-week break, probably not.

The test of the Lidl rectifier can be done like this: turn on the dipped headlights in the car (the engine is not working) for about 15 minutes. This will partially discharge the battery. Then connect the charger and turn on by. instructions. The charger should start working (2 red lights will be on). After charging, one of them will turn green (FULL) - then you will be sure that the Lidl rectifier is working. You can easily do this test yourself.

Greetings!

Jolatta wrote:

Hello
please help me in October 2012 I bought Ultimate Speed - Lidl, I had no need to recharge the battery. car but I checked and it was ok, that is, it showed what was below. In February 2013, I drove very little and the battery had to be charged. The replaced rectifier after switching on shows the car diode in red and the battery diode in green FULL. But I borrowed another rectifier from a friend and this one showed that you need to charge, so it loaded almost 11 hours. I connected it again with the lidl and it shows what was before and I am in a spot whether it is the rectifier's fault - whether it exchanges me or a refund. What should I motivate?
Thank you in advance for the answer

[syntax = basic4gl] [/ syntax]

Added after 2 [hours] 54 [minutes]:

Hello again, so I will say that the car fired right away. The friend did a test with the lights, as I was offered, for 20 minutes and unfortunately the diode was full, as before in Lidl, they did not make a problem, they gave the money back

Thanks again for the hints

Hello, I am glad that I started to be interested in this rectifier (dad just bought it) but I charged it once, so I will buy the same tomorrow and I think I will test it, but I learned a few things while reading you, but I would also like to add my own here and I already know it. So these new so-called "intelligent" rectifiers can be considered as they are and work great (in working batteries), however, reading the topic from the beginning, I say that people who have charged with this lidl rectifier quite quickly and another rectifier recognized that it is still there battery not recharged and this other charger continued to charge, it is the battery, in my opinion, as the charger from Lila shows charged and another one continues to charge, such a battery is already slightly damaged or even half-way. I know from experience that damaged batteries are recharged quickly and quickly, they also lose voltage and capacity. A damaged battery connected to this rectifier from the lid is lost and it happens as you describe. And I agree here with the predecessors and the advice you wrote, I have a yato 8303 electronic rectifier myself and I have the same only 4x higher price and 4x more powerful but it is energy-absorbing and I do not know if I will buy a battery like yours all the time under with tension. My, if I would like to do the same, it loads at rest and 40W from the network, of course, has more possibilities, but it has already been on the site because of my fault. I took my dad for a while because he bought himself for PLN 55, he takes 4W at rest and my yato is 40

Added after 4 [minutes]:

https://www.elektroda.pl/rtvforum/topic2087936-60.html

This link is also worth visiting and reading

Hello
I have a similar problem, I do not have a charger for a charging scooter
the battery is 12 V 3 Ah but I have a German charger, it is quite nice, it has a small amperage
5 A and I have a question whether, as it writes on the battery 0.4 A x5-10h and QUICK 4.0 A x30 min
i.e. when discharging, how long can I charge with this charger for 20 minutes?
and whether the difference of 1 A can be tolerated at all
Please help

Hello,
Lead-acid batteries are most often charged with a current of 1/10 of the battery's rated capacity, in this case it is 0.3A and the charging time is 10 hours.

Gentlemen, about your chargers, more description is here
https://www.elektroda.pl/rtvforum/topic1795000-120.html

And as "kryzđ" is written, it loads, i.e. for as long (with a working battery)