Rectifier from Lidl for PLN 49.90 - what opinions do you have?

Hello.
I bought a battery charger in Lidl. Price 49.90.
It kind of charges, but it's kind of weird. I have no gassing, it turns off at 14.5 V. Somehow "I don't feel it". The previous one, from Biedronka, recorded beautifully, there was electrolyte gassing, and this one was so strange. It does not show the charging current, I will not measure it with a meter. Some strange charging current that the Meter cannot see. The meter is operational, I checked it. Does anyone have such a device and thoughts after using it? I was tempted, because the total cost of making a straightener would be similar or higher, the dimensions would be larger and I would waste my time.

keseszel wrote:

...I bought straightener .

Rather rectifier .

keseszel wrote:

... The previous one is beautiful with Biedronka he was recording , ...

For what he was recording ?

A very good auto charger, if there is no gassing, this is how it should be. You have 4 charging levels. I use it and it's great.

Sorry, I was texting from the phone and somehow missed some mistakes ....
In general, it annoys me that I cannot see the charging current ..

The charging current is shown at the start of the process right after start-up and is constant as programmed. However, after reaching the maximum voltage (14.8 V), the process is interrupted and restarted when it drops to 12.7 V, probably. During this pause, the battery is not charged and the display shows only the current cell voltage. Such a scheme precisely prevents unnecessary boiling of the electrolyte.

The charging current of this charger is not constant, at the beginning with a deeply discharged battery, the current is 4.2A-4.5A, but it flies quite quickly to about 3A, and at the end at about 14.5V on the battery, only dismal electrons are left, not the charging current .
The charger itself is not bad, but it will not charge large batteries in a reasonable time, due to the low charging current and average voltage.

According to one of the videos showing the charging test of this charger, it charged a fairly discharged battery with a capacity of 100 A for almost two weeks before it reached the proper electrolyte density. I have this charger myself and can recharge a dead battery that has discharged and had no strength to turn the starter, half an hour is enough and the battery regained partial efficiency to start the engine and drive away. Most of the batteries should be charged around the clock to be able to say that they are 100% charged.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ug-T-2Oh8ZA
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z-wxZEeRlDU

And what do you think, about the wonderful, 8-stage microprocessor rectifiers that fly at auctions for about 110 PLN. For the sake of simplicity, I will add that they are only in yellow.
I am tempted to buy one, but I am afraid that these 8 stages are more of a "marketing gimmick" ...

Rather, I recommend a modeling charger, for example Redox Delta / IMax B6AC. At least a sensible end-of-charge voltage can be set (15.8-16.2V).

From what I remember reading about batteries and my own experience, I can write: the fact that there is no electrolyte gassing indicates that the battery will not be 100% charged, because in order to fully charge it, electrolyte gassing must occur. In addition, systematic failure to fully recharge the battery after a certain discharge causes its gradual accelerated destruction. If the battery has been discharged by more than a dozen percent, it should be recharged until electrolyte gassing occurs for all purposes, otherwise lead sulphate residues remain in the lead plates, which over time become increasingly larger, causing gradual accelerated wear of the battery.

In my opinion, a stationary charger for car batteries should cause electrolyte gassing because it proves that the battery is fully charged. When the battery is fully charged, gassing of the electrolyte must occur (this does not apply to batteries with hermetic casings in which gassing of the electrolyte cannot occur for obvious reasons)

Added after 1 [minutes]:

I do not recommend automatic chargers for batteries, be it Ni-MH, Ni-Cd or Pb because they have already destroyed a dozen or so batteries.

Added after 7 [minutes]:

The voltage to which the battery should be charged depends on its temperature. The higher the temperature, the lower the voltage. So the charger that turns off at 14.8V will not charge the battery in the winter when it will be most needed when it is standing in the cold of -10 ° C because at such a temperature the final charging voltage should be 15.6V and at -20 ° C about 16V .

Added after 1 [minutes]:

And with electrolyte gassing, we always have the sure sign of a fully charged battery. No meters are needed for this.

For the Ca / Ca battery, the final charging voltage at room temperature is 16.2 V (2.7 V / cell) ... they gass from approx. 15.4 V.

In my opinion, the charging current of the battery is indicated by a decrease in the charging current from a few A to hundreds of mA at a given voltage, usually recommended by manufacturers from 14.40 - 14.5 V. Charging to 16.20 V, when the charging current is minimal (several hundred mA ) is pointless, because maybe we will gain 1-2 Ah more or maybe not at all.

Besides, the belief in the magic Ca / Ca is so strange that the manufacturers give the same guarantee for both, and do not provide for different charging procedures.

amator2000 wrote:

In addition, the belief in the magic Ca / Ca is so strange that the producers give the same guarantee for both

... and what kind of "the latter" did you see? Currently, there are probably no lead-acid batteries with liquid electrolytes other than Ca / Ca or Sb / Ca on the market.

amator2000 wrote:

Charging to 16.20 V, in a situation where the charging current is minimal (several hundred mA), does not make sense, because maybe we will gain 1-2 Ah more, or maybe not at all.

We will gain about 30% of the capacity ... and most of all, in a used battery, we will allow the plates to be rinsed out of lead sulphate crystals deposited on them.

tzok wrote:

we will enable rinsing of lead sulphate crystals deposited on them from the plates.

These are the so-called city myths.
:D

If, with a charging voltage above 14.5-15 V, the charging current is at the level of several hundred mA, then obtaining 30% additional capacity is another urban myth. Unless the battery has a nominal number of Ah, which is unlikely to happen in car batteries.

If you charge at 14.5 V and the current drops to several hundred mA, when you raise the voltage to 15.8 V, the current increases to 3-4 A ...

tzok wrote:

when you raise the voltage to 15.8 V, the current will increase to 3-4 A ...

In working order it is impossible because of the laws of chemical processes, discovered in the 19th century.
:D

If the battery is not charged to reach 2.40V per cell - it means that it is suitable for melting in a lead smelter, or for magic rituals from the so-called regenerative charging and desulphurization.

A battery in which the electrolyte does not gass is simply not fully charged and the plates contain lead sulphate which over time becomes irremovable. Maybe it's only 4% more capacity, but it's always 4%. In winter, this may determine whether or not the car is started.

Not fully recharging the battery after discharging it is simply unwise in my opinion. Distilled water is inexpensive and should not be regretted to extend battery life.

You do not need to gas the battery for a long time. It is enough when visible gassing occurs for a few minutes in all cells.

A fully charged 12V battery must have a voltage of at least 14.4V under the charger. If this is not the case, it means that it is damaged or the charger is damaged or it is not used for this purpose.

I am talking about lead batteries all the time.

Added after 12 [minutes]:

A lead battery must not be stored discharged. So after discharging it should be fully charged immediately.

Added after 3 [minutes]:

In winter, with a battery temperature of -10 ° C, we can only dream that we will fully charge the battery with a voltage of 14.5V because in such conditions the final charging voltage should be about 15.6V.

Everything you write is true but for batteries with lead plates only doped with antimony (Sb / Sb). Modern lead batteries have one (positive) or both calcium-doped plates (Sb / Ca or Ca / Ca), for which the final voltage is over 2.7 V / cell at 21 ° C.

I had a strongly sulphated 52 Ah EFB battery, after charging to 14.5 V, in the process of discharging to 10.8 V with 0.1 C, it showed a capacity of 18 Ah, after charging to 15.8 V, the measured capacity was already at the level 40 Ah. Of course, the main charging is carried out with a constant current of 0.2 C until reaching a voltage of 14.5 V, then we enter the phase of absorption and equalization, under a constant voltage of 16 V, with a current of 2.5-3 A. This process takes about 2 hours. the (optional) stage is a hold - it takes place at a voltage of 13.8 V and a current below 300 mA.

http://www.jgdarden.com/batteryfaq/carfaq9.htm

What could the cost of producing this rectifier ...

For mass production, probably around $ 10.

At the rate of 3.7 it is 37 PLN, where the salary is transport. With mass production, about $ 4 max

Well .. I was looking at the prices of the items. Even if you make your own, it's still more expensive.
It charges the battery for the second day. So far it shows 13.0 V.
It charges the second battery already. I loaded the previous week .. It was over 14 V and no gassing.

amator2000 wrote:

And what do you think, about the wonderful, 8-stage microprocessor rectifiers that fly at auctions for about 110 PLN. For the sake of simplicity, I will add that they are only in yellow. I am tempted to buy one, but I am afraid that these 8 stages are more of a "marketing gimmick" ...

I was also tempted and tempted after someone recommended it to me after several months of use. Now I have one since this summer and I had the opportunity to charge two batteries in cars.
I also did an experiment with a battery that was too deeply discharged, which was doomed to be thrown away (i.e. returned to the store) - the Yato electronic charger (for PLN 180) did not even try to charge it, it did not start, it had a voltage of ~ 8V. The yellow one, on the other hand, was charging for a long time, until it restored the voltage of almost 13V (after finished charging). Then the second attempt recharged this doomed to throw away battery even more. It did not regain large capacity during these two intelligent charging cycles, probably it was not enough, or there was no chance at all. I didn't play with it any more, but it turned out that my friend was right that these inconspicuous, yellow chargers are indeed "smart" and can even improve neglected acid batteries.

After one week of charging, the battery is 12.6 V. It can no longer be charged. Any mode - asterisk or auto - causes the voltage to rise to approx. 15 V. Then the rectifier turns off and stays in the voltage measurement mode. I don't think it will be possible to charge anymore. I think it would be a good idea to measure the electrolyte density, but I dropped the instrument somewhere and I don't want to disassemble the air filter and crack the plugs.

I have a charger as in the picture, charging current 6V and a motorcycle icon, and the car charging current 12V, can I successfully connect one such battery that I have at home for the winter to the "6V motorcycle"?
I prefer to make sure, I know that it can charge for a long time as if it was weak, although it was bought in the summer, so I wouldn't want to spoil it in any way.

CENTER BATTERY 6V 195Ah 1000A CJ1952

https://allegro.pl/oferta/akumulator-centra-6...x_catch_all&ev_campaign_id=18003476858&gclid= CjwKCAiA0JKfBhBIEiwAPhZXD_AhNY5mZ73fDIfvHlzBK3UKt4kLOvRmzz8q13WdDuSTYz1WwC6vwxoCUogQAvD_BwE

Long is a relative term, for me the loading time measured in weeks is an awfully long time.
Yes you can connect, it is suitable for charging, but see above.