- [Charging] Charger from Biedronka - final voltage over 15.5V

Hello!
I recently purchased such a charger in Biedronka:



It is known that PLN 60 does not require miracles, it is probably not perfect and there is no CTEK for + PLN 200.
Nevertheless, I have a problem. When I connect the battery to the charger, normal charging occurs slightly above 14V. However, when the battery is practically fully charged, the voltage jumps to even 15.7-15.8V and lasts quite a long time. Is this the correct procedure? Is this charging mode optimal for a lead-acid battery? I can add that I do not turn on the winter mode, where the voltage is raised in advance from what I read. The second problem is sparking when connecting. As we know, hydrogen is explosive, so it is better to connect the terminals first to the battery and then to the power socket. However, in the case of this charger, this way causes that the contact will always spark. Only the reversal of the order, i.e. first to the mains and then the battery, causes that nothing sparks. I have already read that people have a similar problem, so my case is not an isolated one, but a very dangerous situation since the charger without electricity sparks.

With that sparking and the danger of an explosion, it's a very exaggerated hypersensitivity. Where would the hydrogen accumulate to create an explosive mixture at the battery?

The safe charging voltage of modern batteries is max 16v. So nothing bad happens in your case.

Hmm .. But .. Sparks when connecting the charger when it is disconnected from the power supply .. A bit weak, because in the event of a power failure in the socket, the charger will simply discharge the battery to zero instead of charging

All these half automats spark when connected, there is a capacity test under load - it must be so.
And when the battery is slightly sulphated, the machines can boost to over 15V - because under the test load it has probably 14.4V

For example, after 5 days of charging the old battery, I also had over 15V, but then it showed correctly 14.5V and the old man came back to life and spins almost like new.

DiZMar wrote:

With that sparking and the danger of an explosion, it's a very exaggerated hypersensitivity. Where would the hydrogen accumulate to create an explosive mixture at the battery?

There are various scenarios, e.g. the desire to connect and recharge the battery after a momentary engine start and stop, or reconnection after changing the extension cord. Anyway, why spark in the engine compartment, especially in gasoline engines?



I know the risk of an explosion is relatively small but why risk sulfuric acid splashing in front of our eyes / face?

ToJestNick wrote:

Hmm .. But .. Sparks when connecting the charger when it is disconnected from the power supply .. A bit weak, because in the event of a power failure in the socket, the charger will simply discharge the battery to zero instead of charging

It is possible, although I do not leave the charger for the whole winter, but rather it controls the entire process and the power shortages are rather a temporary state of the network.

wada wrote:

All these half automats spark when connected, there is a capacity test under load - it must be so.
And when the battery is slightly sulphated, the machines can boost to over 15V - because under the test load it has probably 14.4V

For example, after 5 days of charging the old battery, I also had over 15V, but then it showed correctly 14.5V and the old man came back to life and spins almost like new.

Certainly not all of them. Charger from Lidl (I also have) or probably all branded ones do not have such a defect.
I don't get it. If I connect to the network first, it does not spark, because it does not test or test, but thanks to the voltage it can do it without sparking?

Someone on another forum wrote:

Quote:

Small sparking causes the internal filter capacitor to charge.

Maybe this is the reason? I don't know.

And the flame of the candle somehow does nothing :D

A small boom can be like a spark going straight into the battery cell when it is turned on.

I have and have had various chargers from supermarkets and each of them sparkles when connected.

Read the operating instructions carefully, and the reverse order of connection is prohibited, most often it damages the charger, so I have already repaired these chargers to my friends.

Hello
In today's Ca / Ca (calcium / calcium) technology batteries, the safe end charge voltage is 16.2 V at 1 - 2.5 A current (depending on the battery capacity. Moreover, at the lower end voltage, the battery will be undercharged) - it will have an idle voltage of 12.6 - 12.8V but will not have the required electrolyte density (1.28 g / cm3).
For those interested, I recommend the channel on a well-known portal with films about everything (and nothing too):

https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCbSVXP31l7_8DMoTg8h23vw/videos

Until recently, I also charged my battery with some super / hyper electronic something. And it was always the same. One or two days he was shooting normally, and then as if he wanted to or couldn't. This pseudo-winter I charged the battery with a borrowed charger from the eastern border. And after this experience, I know that what they say in these movies is true. The starter turns nice, the car burns without problems, and my 5-year-old battery is fine and will stay with me for another two or three seasons (and I was already looking for a new one).

As for the above-cited film, Mr. Andrzej is a bit of a distraction.
Please pay attention to the "morning of the day of return" - from the beginning of this part of the film the lights are on (on the ammeter 9A) - how long it is not known. And then he is surprised that after "firing" the ammeter shows at the beginning of 15A. He has to, because he unloaded it earlier ...
And I remembered the electrical engineering lady, quoting: "not Amps, but Amps". Same thing with other units. A skilled person, when creating material (long-winded) that is to have some didactic value, should watch over it ...

Buddy zbiq, I recommend the channel as a whole. I know that some tests are a bit stretched, but generally, after watching a few movies and from my own experience, I can see that they probably know what they are talking about.

Lest I just want to score points, I will add that while charging my battery I had to fight a bit with the electrolyte, which necessarily wanted to exit through the venting hole (unfortunately the construction without plugs). The next battery will be obligatory with plugs and the automatic charger is put away. An ordinary old type charger, a bit of attention when charging and it will be ok.

Well, they know, I've watched their other videos before and I get the impression that it's mostly about advertising.
Why aren't they taught about it in driving courses? Because in my opinion it doesn't make sense. Every week, many of us pour fuel the equivalent of a battery into the tank. Fuel cost for the annual mileage of 30,000 it comes out about 8.5 thousand. So what do these 300 zlotys spent every 3 years? And for many of us, the battery runs for 7 or more years. The cost of replacing the battery and oil is negligible compared to the cost of fuels, there is no need to dwell too much on it.
I am deliberately ignoring cars with annual mileage of 3,000. or new cars, filled with electronics, standing in the garage for weeks. These definitely need to be topped up.

I will add that when I measured on such an old rectifier from the times of the Polish People's Republic, at the end of the charging it also had about 15.5v

housemdt wrote:

However, when the battery is practically fully charged, the voltage jumps to even 15.7-15.8V and lasts quite a long time.

In a healthy, functional battery, it is not possible for the charger to enter Recond mode by itself. If this is the case with you, there must be something wrong with the battery. Extreme sulfation or dense cell.

Wlodek22 wrote:

housemdt wrote:

However, when the battery is practically fully charged, the voltage jumps to even 15.7-15.8V and lasts quite a long time.

In a healthy, functional battery, it is not possible for the charger to enter Recond mode by itself. If this is the case with you, there must be something wrong with the battery. Extreme sulfation or dense cell.

Does Recond mode rely on voltage peaks up to around 16V to create gas bubbles that will clear the plates?
For me, although I have not checked, the meter displays permanent 15.7-15.8V for a few - several minutes before FULL is displayed.
The batteries that are being charged are actually not new, they may already have sulfation, although I am surprised in the case of one battery, which is about 1 year old (although it had a theoretically low voltage of 12.4V since the novelty).

Quote:

Every week, many of us pour fuel the equivalent of a battery into the tank. Fuel cost for the annual mileage of 30,000 it comes out about 8.5 thousand. So what do these 300 zlotys spent every 3 years? And for many of us, the battery runs for 7 or more years. The cost of replacing the battery and oil is negligible compared to the cost of fuels, there is no need to dwell too much on it.

I am deliberately ignoring cars with annual mileage of 3,000. or new cars, filled with electronics, standing in the garage for weeks. These definitely need to be topped up.

A good medium-sized battery is PLN 300. This gives according to You have PLN 1,200 per month for fuel, which equals 57,000 km per year when driving on LPG. Rather hardly anyone does so much. So what if PLN 300 is not enough for the amount of money spent on fuel? This logic means that each repair / replacement in the car can be described as meaningless. Box repair for PLN 5,000? Pooh once every 5 years and how much you spent on fuel. Dwumasa? Why caress once every 3 years PLN 2,000 will not save you after all, you spend on fuel at that time PLN 20,000.

Besides, it is surprising what happens to the electrode. I asked a few specific questions and apart from two or three answers, the rest is pouring water, one writes that sparking is the norm and nothing will explode, someone else says that it is better to charge with a Russian rectifier and then it will be fine.

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Then look for a better forum

The last time I repaired from these market chargers, damaged after the wrong order of switching on, the charging pulse was about 18V and the pulse width was different depending on the measurement and settings of the charging type (motorcycle ... winter) then there was a voltage measurement impulse under a load of about 6A (hence the sparking) and when the load is about 14.4V, the automatic unit turns off the fast pumping of charging pulses.
An ordinary meter measures without load, hence these various and often stupid indications of quite high voltage at the battery terminals.

the most common is the Mosfet, which switches the measuring load on, and this is due to the wrong order of connection, or not vigorously connecting the terminals to the battery, long fun with sparking.

housemdt wrote:

For me, although I have not checked, the meter displays permanent 15.7-15.8V for a few - several minutes before FULL is displayed.

Then take a look at it and check, even the best forums won't do it for you.

housemdt wrote:

A good medium-sized battery is PLN 300. This gives according to You have PLN 1,200 per month for fuel, which equals 57,000 km per year when driving on LPG.

Maybe the oat protein drive? You won't need a battery or dual mass at all.
I made it clear that I did not consider small runs.