Replacing Radiator Valve: Proper Valve Opening & Drainage for Cast Iron Fin Radiators

Hello.

Taking advantage of the opportunity that the CO pipes are being replaced at the estate, I asked the handymen from the cooperative to replace the valve on the radiator, which was leaking water after unscrewing the nut (defective gasket). It is more or less a valve on the drain as in the picture found:
http://t2.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcTFke...G2nUzOJYLmCxDSKqC9mJ-co1voS1xQDI1AkuFAegeEWPA

The valve was replaced, but it was installed in my absence from the apartment. Unfortunately, it was mounted as I bought, and therefore completely crazy. Of course, I have an allen key, but the question is: how much should the valve be released so that the radiator heats up properly and has adequate drainage? (it is a typical cast iron fin radiator) ...

Is there a rule as to how far to open the valve? For example, is it a full turn of the hexagon or a half turn? Maybe these are stupid questions, but I am a complete layman, and I would like there to be no trouble with the radiator later in the heating season. I think that you cannot let the valve go just like that, by trial and error, during the heating season, because then the pressure can squeeze it out completely and flood the apartment, and screwing it in under pressure is almost impossible.

I will be grateful for any tips and help. Greetings.


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Please correct.
mod.serwisant73

It's best to unscrew this valve completely. Then there will be a circulation without any resistance. This valve can be adjusted during the heating season (the pressure will not blow it), but not to do it unnecessarily (if there is such a valve at all, it should be treated as an emergency or service valve, used to cut off the radiator from the system in the event of e.g. leakage of the valve itself). radiator). Of course, disconnecting the radiator from the installation requires closing both the supply valve (usually thermostatic) and the return valve.

You keep turning until you feel resistance and that's it.

Thanks for the answers.

Will unscrewing the valve to the maximum with an Allen key result in a stream of water from the valve during the heating period, after unscrewing the cap?
To what extent does insufficient valve release affect the radiator heating efficiency?

Zbigniew Rusek wrote:

This valve can be adjusted during the heating season (the pressure will not blow it), but not to do it unnecessarily.

How does it not crash? I heard that there is such a danger that by letting go of it slowly at some point the water will push it out and I won't be able to screw it back in.

Nothing will knock it out, unscrew it to the maximum, then tighten the cap covering the valve and close the topic.

This cannot be wrought out. At least my valve can't be. There is resistance and it doesn't go any further.

I do not agree with my colleagues. The disc of the shut-off valve should not be unscrewed more than equal to the body. Further screwing out will cause the plug to fall out of the body and the water to flow out of the central heating

Thanks for all the answers. It turns out that the answer was not so clear-cut. I unscrewed the valve with the hexagon socket almost to the level of the nut, tightened the nut with the gasket tightly. Now you just have to remember to keep an eye on the valve when the radiators are going to be filled in the fall.

And I have a question -> Is it necessary to unscrew the valve all the way? I have a problem, because when they renovated my bathroom and installed a ribbed wall radiator, they put the gasket incorrectly in this emergency valve on the drain and when in the summer I unscrewed the cap, water dripped slightly and you could see the gasket (I turned the drain with the hexagon and I did the same with the tide because I have a heater and I did not want to heat the block in the summer). However, yesterday they posted a note on the block saying that they are filling the radiators with water tomorrow. And now I unscrewed this valve, but not quite so, there were still 1-2 millimeters left to align with the end of the thread on the nut. I did it because the water was running a little harder, 2 towels got wet. So what do you advise? It can stay like this ? When I closed the cap, nothing drips. I forgot to do it before. It turns out that this is how the year has been.

I will dig it out.

I once heard that in order to save on heating costs, the drain valve on the radiator should be turned so that the flow is minimal, i.e. that 2/3 of the radiator is hot, and in the lower part it is already lukewarm, which means that most of the heat supplied has been given off.

In my block of flats, each flat has a heat exchanger installed, which heats the water in the tap and in the radiators (controlled separately from the heating computer).
Does the above advice apply?

Jericho24 wrote:

to save on heating costs

You need to insulate the house well. It must get as much heat as it needs to warm up and no closing of the valve will help here. And in solid fuel boilers it will rather hurt because the return temperature will be too low. This is not a condensing boiler.

I do not have a house, but an apartment in a block of flats with a heat exchanger as central heating, so your answer does not help me.