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Turning Old Danfoss Vertical Radiator Head to Horizontal Position in a Cast Iron Radiator

maliwat69 14718 11
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  • #1 17134488
    maliwat69
    Level 8  
    Posts: 60
    Rate: 26
    Hello forum users. In the flat I bought, I have a cast iron radiator in the kitchen with a vertically mounted head. I would need to turn this head so that it is normally horizontal. How do I do that? I will add that the head is old Danfoss company. Thanks for the help.
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    • Turning Old Danfoss Vertical Radiator Head to Horizontal Position in a Cast Iron Radiator 1522266348050103558369.jpg (1.45 MB) You must be logged in to download this attachment.
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  • #2 17134596
    kot mirmur
    Level 33  
    Posts: 2131
    Help: 206
    Rate: 556
    Hello Friend. If I were you, I wouldn't risk touching it. Despite your sincere intentions, it may end up flooding your apartment + neighbors. As seen in the photo - the valve on the tube is painted with oil paint. If the valve was also screwed on it, there may be a problem with tightening it 90 degrees without unsealing the installation. Or maybe your plumber just ended his thread this way? You need some tools, knowledge and experience. It is really cheaper to call a maintenance technician at the above facility. Invoice, etc., he is then responsible for any flooding.
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  • #3 17134916
    maliwat69
    Level 8  
    Posts: 60
    Rate: 26
    In that case, if you do not recommend moving this valve, maybe it would be easier to remove this white knob for me? Isn't that a good idea too? I am asking because either I will pull off the white knob or I will have to drill a hole in the countertop because it is supposed to cover all of it with the kitchen countertop.
  • #4 17135148
    kot mirmur
    Level 33  
    Posts: 2131
    Help: 206
    Rate: 556
    The head itself should be demountable. Take a picture so that the valve under the head is visible.
  • #5 17135174
    Zbigniew Rusek
    Level 38  
    Posts: 3610
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    The valve is undoubtedly installed incorrectly (the head will misinterpret the room temperature, because the heat from the hot pipe supplying the radiator will go straight on it) and should be firmly horizontal. However, it must be done after the season, when the water will be drained from the installation (it is best to unscrew it, give new tow with paste and screw it again so that it is horizontal). I was able to correct it once without unscrewing it (by tightening it more tightly), but there can always be a risk of e.g. breaking the thread (valve bodies are brass and not steel).
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  • #6 17135203
    barteksmrek
    Level 28  
    Posts: 1309
    Help: 89
    Rate: 222
    Zbigniew Rusek wrote:
    The valve is undoubtedly installed incorrectly (the head will misinterpret the room temperature, because the heat from the hot pipe supplying the radiator will go straight on it) and should be firmly horizontal.

    I will not agree with this statement. It is ok vertically. There is also a close-up radiating rib. As it is a capillary head.
  • #7 17135229
    kot mirmur
    Level 33  
    Posts: 2131
    Help: 206
    Rate: 556
    Draining after the heating season, in addition from a steel installation? Curiosity, even total stupidity. Buddy Z. Rusek, the first of April will be only on Sunday. Such things are only done for service / repair purposes.
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  • #8 17135446
    BUCKS
    Level 39  
    Posts: 3820
    Help: 536
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    barteksmrek wrote:
    I will not agree with this statement. Vertical is ok

    unfortunately but you are wrong and colleague Zbigiew Rusek is right. With an ordinary head, such a vertical arrangement is a mistake in the art and any self-respecting specialist and head manufacturer will tell you that.

    Only the head with the capillary will ensure the correct response to temperature without any alterations or corrections.
    Anyway, if ultimately the whole is to be covered with a top, the capillary is still indicated, and correcting the position of the head will facilitate the installation of the top and will be a solution to the problem in the future if the top is removed.

    kot mirmur wrote:
    Such things are only done for service / repair purposes.

    a colleague Zbigniew Rusek talked about this.
    Correction of the valve and head position may succeed without spilling water, but in such installations there is a good chance of unforeseen surprises, so you need to protect yourself for this.
    The easiest way to drain the water, although you can play freezing. The less important method depends on the skill of the plumber, and the final result counts, it must be done without flooding the kitchen.
  • #9 17135487
    barteksmrek
    Level 28  
    Posts: 1309
    Help: 89
    Rate: 222
    BUCKS wrote:
    unfortunately but you are wrong and colleague Zbigiew Rusek is right. With an ordinary head, such a vertical arrangement is a mistake in the art and any self-respecting specialist and head manufacturer will tell you that.

    Can you quote any instructions from the manufacturers here? I have vertically in both houses in Poland. Anyway, their construction prevents installation horizontally and in small rooms would protrude beyond a single radiator, which makes no sense. In fact, I hear for the first time that they are to be horizontal and not vertical. I know that they cannot be installed under the windowsill on top of the radiator, but vertically?
  • #10 17135824
    BUCKS
    Level 39  
    Posts: 3820
    Help: 536
    Rate: 1084
    barteksmrek wrote:
    Can you quote any instructions from the manufacturers here?

    I do not know by heart, you can search for yourself, you will probably find drawings with strikethrough how to not mount the head.

    barteksmrek wrote:
    I have vertically in both houses in Poland

    Personally, I have not seen live heads installed in such a way, so thanks to the internet we can learn what is unknown.

    barteksmrek wrote:
    Anyway, their construction prevents installation horizontally and in small rooms would protrude beyond a single radiator, which makes no sense.

    How does the head structure not allow for horizontal assembly? Maybe make some photos or a link to the product card of your head, because until I see it I won't believe it.

    By the way, mount the heads on the valve or valve insert depending on the type of radiator.
    With a typical side-connected radiator, the valve is directed towards the center of the room, i.e. as you write, the head will stick out of the radiator outline and this is normal.
    Turning Old Danfoss Vertical Radiator Head to Horizontal Position in a Cast Iron Radiator
    The photo comes from the post available on Elektroda under this link

    For radiators with a bottom connection, you have a valve insert and the head is like an extension of the length of the radiator, i.e. it is directed left or right instead of towards the center of the room.
    Turning Old Danfoss Vertical Radiator Head to Horizontal Position in a Cast Iron Radiator
    Photo taken from the LeroyMerlin website.

    barteksmrek wrote:
    In fact, I hear for the first time that they are supposed to be horizontal and not vertical

    Man learns all his life.
    I hear the first that the heads are to be mounted vertically as in the author of this thread.
  • #11 17136880
    Szczecin62
    Level 21  
    Posts: 309
    Help: 44
    Rate: 123
    Dude, look for problems where they are not! In the kitchen (as well as in the bathroom) the radiator is not measured with a divisor, so the oil is a white knob, i.e. the thermostatic head and oil, let the radiator heat to the maximum and it will not lower your bill. And breaking the thread and flooding the apartments below you can be a problem for a thick thousand zlotys
    Greetings
  • #12 17137135
    BUCKS
    Level 39  
    Posts: 3820
    Help: 536
    Rate: 1084
    Szczecin62 wrote:
    In the kitchen (as well as in the bathroom) the radiator is not measured with a divider

    I know a housing community where each radiator is covered by a divisor, i.e. in the room, kitchen, bathroom.

    Szczecin62 wrote:
    let the radiator heat to the max and it won't lower your bill anyway

    For me personally, invoice is the least problem here, because it is probably about comfort, i.e. the temperature is to be at a pleasant level, because no normal person will do saunas and spirits from the kitchen, and then open the windows to regulate and lower the temperature.
    Of course, this is an individual matter, because in some cases the water temperature is low enough that there is no risk of significant overheating of the rooms.

Topic summary

✨ The discussion revolves around the challenge of repositioning an old Danfoss vertical radiator head to a horizontal position on a cast iron radiator. Users express concerns about the risks of flooding and the technical difficulties involved in making such adjustments. Some suggest that the head can be demounted, while others argue that the vertical installation is acceptable, particularly for capillary heads. It is recommended to perform any adjustments after the heating season to avoid water spillage, with some users advocating for professional assistance to mitigate risks. The conversation highlights differing opinions on the necessity and feasibility of changing the head's orientation, as well as the implications for temperature regulation and installation aesthetics.
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FAQ

TL;DR: To mount a Danfoss head correctly, rotate the valve a full 90°, but "If I were you, I wouldn't risk touching it." Hire a pro or drain the system to re‑seal and set the head horizontal. [Elektroda, kot mirmur, post #17134596]

Why it matters: This FAQ helps flat owners with cast‑iron radiators fix vertical TRV heads, avoid countertop clashes, and prevent leaks.

Quick Facts

Is my vertically mounted Danfoss head installed incorrectly?

Yes for typical heads. Heat from the supply pipe biases the sensor. A horizontal head reads room air better. “The valve is undoubtedly installed incorrectly... and should be firmly horizontal.” [Elektroda, Zbigniew Rusek, post #17135174]

Can I rotate the valve 90° without draining the system?

Avoid it. Forcing a 90° turn can unseal joints, especially if the valve and pipe are paint‑bonded. That risks flooding apartments. Call building maintenance if you lack tools and experience. [Elektroda, kot mirmur, post #17134596]

When should I re-orient the valve body?

Do it after the heating season. Drain the system, unscrew the valve, re‑wrap with tow and paste, and set it horizontal. Forcing fittings can break threads because the body is brass, not steel. [Elektroda, Zbigniew Rusek, post #17135174]

How do I safely re-orient a TRV valve body?

  1. Drain the installation after the season and depressurize the radiator.
  2. Unscrew the valve, re‑seal with tow and paste, and re‑install.
  3. Tighten so the head will sit horizontal, then refill and bleed. [Elektroda, Zbigniew Rusek, post #17135174]

Is a vertical head OK if it uses a capillary remote sensor?

Yes. A capillary head reads temperature away from the hot pipe, so vertical mounting can work. This is the exception for accurate sensing near radiating ribs. [Elektroda, barteksmrek, post #17135203]

What’s the best fix if a new kitchen countertop blocks the head?

Use a capillary thermostatic head. Remote the sensor where air flows freely. Correcting the head to horizontal also eases future top installation and access. [Elektroda, BUCKS, post #17135446]

Can I just remove the white knob (thermostatic head) to gain clearance?

Yes, the head is demountable. However, confirm what valve sits under the head before removal. Share a photo if unsure to avoid disabling control. [Elektroda, kot mirmur, post #17135148]

What tools or methods can a pro use if we don’t drain?

A pro can drain the system or use pipe freezing to isolate the section. Method choice depends on skill. Protect the area to avoid flooding regardless of approach. [Elektroda, BUCKS, post #17135446]

What can go wrong if I over‑tighten during correction?

You can strip threads or crack the body. The valve body is brass, so it fails before steel piping. Replace seals and avoid brute force. [Elektroda, Zbigniew Rusek, post #17135174]

Will leaving the kitchen radiator on max change my bill?

It depends on metering. Some communities allocate costs using dividers on every radiator, including kitchens and bathrooms. Check your building policy first. [Elektroda, BUCKS, post #17137135]

Should I turn only the head instead of moving the valve body?

No. The sensor still sits in the hot airflow from the pipe if the body stays vertical. Reposition the body or use a capillary head. [Elektroda, BUCKS, post #17135446]

The valve and pipe are painted—does that change anything?

Yes. Paint can lock threads and hide leaks. Breaking that bond during a 90° turn can unseal joints. Plan for controlled, professional work. [Elektroda, kot mirmur, post #17134596]

What could it cost if I cause a leak while rotating the valve?

Repairs and neighbor damages can run into thousands of złoty. That’s why using a licensed technician who carries liability is prudent. [Elektroda, Szczecin62, post #17136880]

Who should do this job and why?

Call building maintenance or a licensed plumber. They have tools, know the system, issue an invoice, and assume responsibility for any flooding. [Elektroda, kot mirmur, post #17134596]
Generated by the language model.
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