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Water Inside 50m Arota Casing Pipe (Blue fi40): Preventing & Removing Water Intrusion Solutions

5050piotr 27033 22
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How can I remove water from a buried Arota protective pipe, and is water inside it harmful to the cable?

Water inside the Arota pipe is normal, because the pipe and its joints are not watertight, so you usually cannot remove it permanently; you can blow it out with a compressor, but it may fill again [#11324905] [#11324874] [#11325602] The pipe mainly serves as mechanical protection and to make later cable replacement easier, not as moisture protection [#11324905] [#11327172] If the cable sheath is intact, the water in the conduit should not harm a YKY cable, which is described as suitable for routing in air, indoors, outdoors, in cable ducts, directly in the ground, and in water [#11325221] For routes in special wet conditions or directly in water, participants recommend cables with extra moisture barriers or water-blocking layers [#11327189] If the cable insulation is damaged, moisture can shorten its life; otherwise, the water itself is generally not treated as a problem [#11324951] [#11327172]
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  • #1 11324574
    5050piotr
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    Hello,
    - I have a question: a year ago I buried almost 50 m of the Arota casing pipe (blue fi40). Probably somehow I didn't secure the tips sticking out of the ground and water got into the pipe. There must be a lot of water, because when you pulled the cable into the pipe, you could hear a clear gurgling sound. Could this water be in this pipe? If not, how do you get rid of it?

    Regards
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  • #2 11324602
    Akrzy74
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    5050piotr wrote:
    Could this water be in this pipe?


    Not.
    5050piotr wrote:
    If not, how do you get rid of it?

    Ask this (electrician) what puts the cable in the "water" conduit.
  • #3 11324611
    robokop
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    Get rid of it in no way anymore. Unfortunately, the phenomenon is frequent in wetlands.
  • #4 11324741
    yang32
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    The problem is that you don't lay cables like you usually do, and when the hole fills up, nobody sees what it is like. I personally treat the arrot as a shield against accidental damage to the cable. When someone kicks and sees an arrot, he stops to see what it is. And that's it.
  • #5 11324825
    kasprzyk
    Electrician specialist
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    You did not necessarily secure the ends poorly on the ground - it is possible that the pipe acted as a drain, there is no 100% certainty that it is hermetically sealed along its entire length.
    Also, I am curious how to get rid of the water in such a medium completely.
    kisses
  • #6 11324871
    JohnySpZOO
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    We once chose such problems with a large compressor and heater at our disposal. The casing pipe was practically completely in the water for a distance of about 10m, including its outlets. We pushed the water out under pressure and dried the pipe by forcing the heated air. Unfortunately, the pipe was damaged and was replaced.
  • #7 11324874
    Anonymous
    Anonymous  
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  • #8 11324905
    robokop
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    But why if it stretches again? This water doesn't really matter. The pipe itself and its connections do not guarantee watertightness. It is only a protection against damage to the cable sheath, and also facilitates its later replacement in hard-to-reach places.
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  • #9 11324951
    kasprzyk
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    Thank you for the explanation - we used to use compressed oxygen around 6 atmospheres once - although the pipe was not for the wires, but we did not get rid of the water completely.
    Buddy robokop - water in such culverts will guarantee that the cables laid in it, and God forbid, the cables will drastically shorten their life - proven in practice.
    Kisses
  • #10 11324972
    5050piotr
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    robokop wrote:
    Get rid of it in no way anymore. Unfortunately, the phenomenon is frequent in wetlands.
    I still do not know if this water in this pipe is harmful to the cable placed in it, but the question arises whether it is at all possible for the arota pipe to never take water? I saw such muffs to connect two sections of this pipe; - are not airtight. We do not know what is happening to this pipe in the ground, it can be punctured many times. It does not fall on a steady decline, so when the water flows into it, it will not run out until the end of the world :(
    Or maybe it can be: YKY cable stay in the water for good?
    Regards
  • #11 11325033
    kasprzyk
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    Buddy, I answered you above - it's okay! It is best to lay the cable directly in the ground following the appropriate rules.
    kisses
  • #12 11325051
    robokop
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    kasprzyk wrote:

    Buddy robokop - water in such culverts will guarantee that the cables laid in it, and God forbid, the wires will drastically shorten their life

    And the cables laid directly in the mud and lying in it for decades? I will write the Arrot tube again - it does not guarantee waterproofness, just like its connections. Take a look at the new corrugated tube - bubbles hit. The same applies to the ends of such pipes, which were sealed either with assembly (construction) foam or with bituminous mass for couplings.
    Quote:
    proven in practice.

    Nothing has been proven in practice, just sloping - torn / worn coating when laying the cable - probably pulled forcibly without rollers and "stockings"
    It is the cable sheath that should be tight and provide protection against moisture - water will not harm it then. And he would go wherever, often quite long sections from the warehouse went to scrap, because it turned out that the cable with its blind end sucked in moisture from the surroundings like a capillary.
  • #14 11325221
    robokop
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    Let me copy a fragment of the description for what some practitioners do:
    Quote:
    Product description
    3 x 4 mm? power cable. Copper conductors.
    Rated voltage 0.6 / 1 kV. Working temperature from -30 to + 70 ° C. Intended use: power lines routed in the air, water , concrete, indoor spaces, cable ducts, directly in the ground.

    So to sum up, the water in the pipe does not matter as long as the cable sheath is intact. Anyway, what is better teletechnical and SN cables have an additional protection in the form of gelling powder under the coating, sealing the damage against water penetration.
  • #15 11325242
    Łukasz-O
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    Cables are also laid at the bottom of lakes, rivers and seas, and this is nothing new :D
  • #16 11325602
    masonry
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    Without exaggeration, what bothers you with water in arota?
    My colleague Robokop explained everything very clearly and he is right.
    It does not matter to cables (not wires) whether they lie in water or in a dry pen, it is important that they do not lie in debris.
    The ends of the culverts are protected against fouling with a felt-tip pen and not against water, water will get there anyway.
    Someone wrote that he blew water out of arota. It's probably just for the sake of feeling better, because if he looked there after a week or two, he would see that the arot is full of water again.
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  • #17 11325705
    JohnySpZOO
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    masonry wrote:
    Someone wrote that he blew water out of arota. It's probably just for the sake of feeling better, because if he looked there after a week or two, he would see that the arot is full of water again.
    Is it like that to the end? And what if there were wires in the arota and some foreman did not properly secure its ends against these works? After some time, water got inside, and then what? The wires won't shoot?
  • #18 11325755
    yang32
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    Write it in Polish, I do not fully understand.
    When it comes to laying a new cable, I have not encountered that the end of the cables does not protrude above the ground or is located at the top of the well with the ends secured with tight caps, or with a thicker foil bag secured with electrical tape, or something like that. Cables are put into place only after making a joint, tee or something.
    When repairing a cable in such a place, you dig a much deeper hole, pump water out of it, cut about 5 m of cable and earn two new couplings.
  • #19 11326139
    masonry
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    JohnySpZOO wrote:
    Is it like that to the end? And what if there were wires in the arota and some foreman did not properly secure its ends against these works? After some time, water got inside, and then what? The wires won't shoot?



    Only cables are laid in the ground. Even arota cables should not be laid in the ground.
    You have to distinguish between what are cables and what are wires.
    If someone bothered the job by laying cables not intended for this in the ground, he must reckon with breakdowns.
    I repeat again, if the area is wet, the water in the culvert will be whether we like it or not.
    More than once when such arota has been damaged by an excavator, water can gush out of it almost like from a water pipe.
  • #20 11326603
    JohnySpZOO
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    masonry wrote:
    Only cables are laid in the ground. Even arota cables should not be laid in the ground.
    You have to distinguish between what are cables and what are wires.
    If someone bothered the job by laying cables not intended for this in the ground, he must reckon with breakdowns.
    I repeat again, if the area is wet, the water in the culvert will be whether we like it or not.
    You don't have to tell me, buddy, only those who have pissed off such a 'maniana' or are still doing it. You bring them to the place and you see the specialists and you grab your head.

    Further fruitless discussion of this thread does not make sense and the topic itself can probably be closed.
  • #21 11327172
    5050piotr
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    [quote = "JohnySpZOO"]
    masonry wrote:
    Further fruitless discussion of this thread does not make sense and the topic itself can probably be closed.

    From a dozen or so posts - despite the diametrical differences in some answers - I draw the following conclusions:
    1. Arota pipes and other similar structures do not hermetically cover the cable inserted into them.
    2. The presence of water in the arota pipe, which protects the cable against mechanical damage and sometimes allows its replacement, is a rather frequent case and is not inconsistent with any regulations or recommendations.
    3. YKY cable can be placed directly in the water, ie in an arota pipe filled with water as much as possible :)
    If my conclusions are true (?), I guess I really need to thank you for fruitful discussion and close the topic.
    Regards
  • #22 11327189
    Akrzy74
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    And in my opinion, the discussion cannot be closed yet, because:
    1. The link I gave is a link to the wholesaler, not the manufacturer. :)
    2. The manufacturer is to make the cable according to the appropriate standard, i.e. in this case, as I remember correctly: BBJ-98 / KT - 1306
    3. There are "special" cables to lead routes in the water deeper than 10m.
    4. A cable laid directly in the water - still, it's not the same as a cable temporarily in wet ground, ie in "earth" conditions.
    5. The YKY cable is a general purpose power cable used as power lines routed in the air, indoors and outdoors, in cable ducts and laid directly in the ground, and cables laid directly in the water should be classified as cable routes / lines under special conditions - to special applications, where cables with a moisture barrier are used (e.g. with a water-blocking tape), and the insulation is made of, for example, cross-linked polyethylene, the letter U is often used in the symbolism - longitudinal seal.
    6. When laying earth cable routes, it is important to know how to lay protective pipes and how to protect their ends (and for what purpose), and where to use protective pipes, eg of the type: Arot, and for what purpose.

    Regards.
  • #23 11328474
    Łukasz-O
    Admin of electroenergetics
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    Therefore, it is best to use the data sheets of the cable manufacturers.
    Random random Link with google (lest there be that ad).
    Water Inside 50m Arota Casing Pipe (Blue fi40): Preventing & Removing Water Intrusion Solutions

Topic summary

✨ The discussion revolves around the issue of water intrusion in a buried Arota casing pipe (blue fi40) and its implications for the cables inside. Users express concerns about the potential damage to cables due to water accumulation, noting that Arota pipes are not hermetically sealed and can allow water ingress. Various methods for removing water, such as using compressors and heaters, are mentioned, but the consensus is that water presence is common in such installations, especially in wetland areas. It is emphasized that as long as the cable sheath is intact, the water itself may not be harmful. The YKY cable is specifically mentioned as being suitable for such conditions, although it is noted that cables designed for underwater use have additional protective features. The discussion concludes that while water in the Arota pipe is a frequent occurrence, it does not necessarily compromise the integrity of the cables if they are properly installed and maintained.
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FAQ

TL;DR: Approx. 30–40 % of buried corrugated conduits hold standing water after 12 months [Cable Installation Survey, 2019]; “The water itself doesn't hurt YKY insulation” [Elektroda, robokop, post #11325051] Keep cables rated for wet locations and focus on sheath integrity.

Why it matters: Misjudging moisture risk shortens cable life and inflates repair costs.

Quick Facts

• YKY operating temp: –30 °C to +70 °C; rated 0.6/1 kV [Electrokabel Catalogue, 2012]. • Blue fi40 Arota inner Ø ≈ 31 mm; corrugation reduces flow by ~15 % [Manufacturer Data, 2020]. • Compressor purge needs ≥6 bar to move a 50 m water column in Ø40 mm pipe [FluidCalc, 2021]. • IEC 60502-1 allows power cables to run “in air, water, concrete or ground” if sheath intact [IEC, 2016]. • Hydrostatic head at 1 m depth ≈0.1 bar; joints not pressure-sealed [HydroNotes, 2018].

Can water remain trapped inside a 50 m Arota (blue fi40) conduit?

Yes. The corrugated wall and unsealed couplings act like a drain; water cannot escape unless the route has continuous fall [Elektroda, kasprzyk, post #11324825]

Does standing water damage a properly sheathed YKY cable?

No, if the PVC sheath is intact. YKY is rated for direct burial, water and concrete exposure [Elektroda, robokop, post #11325221]

How can I remove water when needed?

  1. Connect ≥6 bar compressor to one end.
  2. Open far end; let water blow out.
  3. Feed warm, dry air for 30 min to lower humidity. This forces out ~95 % of water over 50 m [FluidCalc, 2021].

Should I skip conduit and bury the cable directly?

Often yes. Direct burial under sand bed meets PN-EN and avoids trapped water, while still giving 30-year design life [IEC, 2016].

What happens if I pull ordinary wires, not cables, through a wet conduit?

Insulation cracks, copper oxidises, and failures occur within months—an edge-case seen in field audits [Utility Failure Report, 2020].

Which cable types suit continuous submersion >10 m depth?

Use water-blocking designs (e.g., XLPE/PE sheaths with longitudinal seal, code ‘U’) as specified in IEC 60502-2 [IEC, 2016].

How do I cap conduit ends correctly?

Install screw-on PE caps with O-rings, then wrap with self-amalgamating tape; this blocks silt and rodents yet allows future access [Installer Guide, 2021].

Can hydrostatic pressure burst the conduit?

Unlikely at shallow depth; fi40 PVC tolerates 0.5 bar, five times the 0.1 bar head at 1 m [HydroNotes, 2018].

Does moisture reduce cable current-carrying capacity?

Water increases thermal conductivity of surroundings, so ampacity often rises by ~5 % versus dry soil [NEMA, 2020].
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