Car trailer lights.

Hello !
I am asking for advice where the problem lies, namely, I plugged the lights into the trailer (I changed it to another one) I had a damaged plug before, and I replaced it with another one
the problem is:
-I turn on the left turn signal works properly
- I turn on the right turn signal works correctly
- I turn on the position lights work properly
and now there is a problem:
I turn on the brake, the position lights go out and both turn signals and stop light come on
when I turn on the turn signal and "stop" and the position light is the turn signal
the right one is flashing but the other one is also on
-with the lights off, pressing the stop button lights the stop and turn signals at the same time
the problem is a light trailer connected to the car
where is the problem in the plug or in connecting the lights, maybe someone can help
everything was fine before

Are you sure the socket in the car is properly connected to the installation?

Buddy, how do the lights in the car behave in such a situation? It looks to me, and how else, the lack of mass - he argues that I had the same in Megance, maybe except for those positional, which did not go out.

kizek wrote:

Are you sure the socket in the car is properly connected to the installation?

yes, the socket in the car is ok, otherwise I would not have directions and stops
it worked before

Added after 5 [minutes]:

Ture11 wrote:

It looks to me like, how else, lack of mass -

hmm, but if there was a lack of mass, the stop would not work, and as I wrote, stop lights and
direction indicators both, if I press only the stop, and I have the position lights turned off, I will add that everything works fine in the car. But how to check the mass? I tried to connect it differently and it didn't work

Added after 1 [minutes]:

max0101 wrote:

Hello !
-I turn on the left turn signal works properly
- I turn on the right turn signal works correctly
- I turn on the position lights work properly
and now there is a problem:
I turn on the brake, the position lights go out and both turn signals and stop light come on
when I turn on the turn signal and "stop" and the position light is the turn signal
the right one is flashing but the other one is also on
-with the lights off, pressing the stop button lights the stop and turn signals at the same time

back to the problem

The stop light is on because it finds another way to ground, connecting in series to the switched off direction indicators - from here they start to light up. For me, the reason was the burnt mass at the lights, you pressed the stop - the turn signal began to light up.

You must also take into account the fact whether there is a ground wire in the trailer or the metal structure is the so-called ground, which may cause confusion in the light bulbs (e.g. rust in screwed connections).

I'm moving to beginners. The correct answer has already been given. No mass in the rear lamps or the whole trailer. It is possible that there is no mass in the socket, and it worked because the trailer received mass through the hook. You need to start checking with the lamps themselves, they may not have a connection to the mass of the trailer.

There is also the option of "mirror hookup": when assembling from the description, my colleague changed the view from the bolts (from the car) with the view from the wires.

Pawel wawa wrote:

It is possible that there is no mass in the socket, and it worked because the trailer received mass through the hook. You need to start checking with the lamps themselves, they may not have a connection to the mass of the trailer.

hmm, tomorrow I will check, I will disconnect the trailer so that the mass does not fly through the hook and I will check the plug itself and write back what I have found, for now thanks for the suggestions :|

Added after 2 [minutes]:

Zico63 wrote:

There is also the option of "mirror hookup": when assembling from the description, my colleague changed the view from the bolts (from the car) with the view from the wires.

does anyone have a diagram of the output from the socket in the plug as the wires should go
but not in the car but in the trailer

https://www.elektroda.pl/rtvforum/topic6013.html
In addition to the "R" pin which, according to the standards, powers the fog light of the trailer. I had a link to the current descriptions somewhere.

Zico63 wrote:

https://www.elektroda.pl/rtvforum/topic6013.html
In addition to the "R" pin which, according to the standards, powers the fog light of the trailer. I had a link to the current descriptions somewhere.

well, it's not a simple scheme, because it works, but I have the pins wrongly connected, i.e. from what position it goes
adds a diagram

max0101 wrote:

It works, but I'm connected incorrectly

And that is the misfortune of our vehicles. As I understand it, the wires from the car somehow found their way to the appropriate bulbs in the trailer, although not necessarily with the right pins of the socket. Such a trailer lent to a neighbor will immediately destroy the installation or at least blow the fuses. And vice versa: the same effect will be obtained by attaching a well-made trailer, if there was also "own invention" and "variations on ..." in the socket of the vehicle.
That scheme is actually complicated and I just forgot about inserting a simpler one, just like that... Sorry.
Here is the simplest diagram of a small trailer, without markers or front position markers. If the dimensions of the trailer require their use - we take the power to them from the position sockets of a given side (black or brown) from the connecting strip, which is best placed in a hermetic 230V (domestic) construction box - under the floor of the trailer.
Now about the license plate light. In some rear lamps there is already this backlight and if the trailer is not wide - it will illuminate the board well; so i didn't draw it either. However, if the conditions require a separate lamp - connect it to the left (usually) position lamp.


We pay attention to whether the pin to which we connect now (i.e. when working) the plug cable is a pin ("male" pin) or a hole ("female" pin). Using the photo and checking it, we constantly make sure that the connections are correct.
The colors are according to the Polish Standard (I don't remember which one, but all 7-pin connections use it).

Added after 13 [minutes]:

And the mass: The mass of each lamp should be led to the connecting strip and ADDITIONALLY to the trailer frame, if it is made of metal. It never hurts, improves the current flow (larger current flow area) and improves reliability (breaking of the main mass is "saved" by the existence of the mass through the drawbar and hook).

I have read all the descriptions and they are very helpful, especially the diagrams with the connection markings.
My question concerns the connection of the plug socket of the tractor trailer to the tractor. Distribution of wires from the trailer is not a problem. One turn signal, second, brake lights, position lights and ground. I have a problem with determining in the tractor's socket which wire is ground. I don't know how to determine it.
According to the diagram, the pins for the turn signals, stop and position match. I don't know which pin is ground. Because I assumed that the middle one is the mass, everything worked for me, (checking with a light bulb, when switching on individual lights) only the position lights did not work. They worked only when I connected one pin from the socket with the mass of the tractor in the form of a fastening screw.
I assume that someone, when connecting the socket, did not fully apply all the rules for connecting wires.
How to determine which wire in the tractor's socket is ground, assuming it is connected differently or not connected at all, would the lights be on in that case.

Hello, if the topic is current, you can check the weight in many ways.

We take a test tube with one long cable that would go to the positive pole of the battery (battery plus pole/clamp) with a light bulb with the smallest power - one watt is enough (5W maximum) and we look for the mass of the vehicle.
Nothing may be switched on, for example the dipped beam.
This version has not been checked by me, so be careful or skip this method of finding mass, because perhaps during the search, the test tube will be lit everywhere because the current will flow through the bulb, i.e. the current will flow in series with the mass.

Or we dismantle the socket housing and look where the ground is.

Or in the car, we turn on everything that is, including the rear fog light and ask the other person to press the brake and then one cable is connected to the body/reconstruction/mass of the vehicle and we are looking for where it is not lit, i.e.:
If it is an old dated tractor, it may even be incompatible with the standard in force in Europe, the description of the pins, i.e. in the tractor we supposedly have two free pins and the third one is the pin you are looking for.
I checked the old farm book more closely and there are five pins including ground and two free pins.

If it's a car, according to the old date, we have one free pin, plus the searched pin, the ground, and if the new date, i.e. new standards, we have no free pins, only the ground, then the tester will not light up.

If it's a trailer, you'll need a tester and a battery.
For this, remove all light bulbs so that there is no closed circuit in the plug.
Connect one negative pole to the trailer ground and look for the ground pin.
Then the bulb/test lamp will light up at the ground.

Or we take a comfortable chair and patiently look for mass in the socket with 49 combinations/tries until we find mass.
Having a tester with a battery at our disposal or turning on the position / parking lights to look for ground, once we have found the ground, we check the rest of the pins by turning on other lights.
Once we fly all the lights and it works at this pin, then it will be as a mass.
At the end, you always have to check by turning on the tractor or in the car or connecting the trailer, all the lights at once if there is no stop flashing effect or a faint glow of the stop with the direction indicator due to the lack of mass.


That would be enough for the search for the ground pin.
If I wrote something wrong or misspelled, let me know.

greetings Piotr

Thank you very much jaspi85 for the extensive and interesting hint.
In my case, I meant connecting the władymirec tractor socket.
In fact, the ground was not connected to the tractor's socket. I found this after unscrewing the socket. I connected a separate wire to the pin where the ground should be and the other end to the socket screw. Now everything is ok.
Nevertheless, thank you very much for the detailed description of checking this possibility.
Darius

In my case, the trailer lamps behaved identically. I checked all the trailer wiring and it was ok, so I hooked the trailer to the car, but without the white ground wire, and instead ran the working wire loose next to the car down to the battery negative. Everything started working. It turned out that the ground wire on the side of the car, right next to the towbar, was rusty and did not conduct electricity. All bulbs in the trailer lamp share a common series ground. In this situation, the current passed through the trailer brake bulbs through the series ground jumper to the direction and returned through the power wire of this direction indicator. I made a new ground wire from the plug at the towbar to the car body and everything works as it should.

If you are not familiar with the markings in the socket where the mass is, put the plug removed from the housing into the socket and there are markings on its pins and after the shout. 44L is left turn signal 44P is right turn signal.