Mikita Drill Voltage Conversion: Switching from 110V to 230V

Hello I have a Mikita drill I would like to know how to change it from 110v to 230v I took it apart and on the switch it says 110v 230v what does it mean.

You need to rewind the engine.

A colleague can send pics of this switch?

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photo of this switch To view the material on this forum you must be logged in. .

kamil.szostek wrote:

Hello I have a Mikita drill I would like to find out how to change it from 110V to 230V

A normal mains-powered drill?
The conversion is not profitable.

kamil.szostek wrote:

photo of this switch

The switch is adapted to different voltages. And that's it, the motor made for 110V.

Theoretically, you can put something under the switch to keep it from pressing it all the way, but the power of the device drops.

kizek wrote:

Can a colleague send pics of this switch?

The markings on the switch only apply to the parameters of this switch and there is no way to change the power voltage of the drill on it. A 110/230 transformer and it will be OK.

Power this drill through a suitable 230v / 110V transformer and that's it.

Some devices have a switch 110 to 230 just switch and you don't need to rewire anything. Even if you don't have it, you don't need to rewire anything you can connect yourself a trafo and make a universal device adapter from 110 to 230:)

If so, it seems to me that the motor is controlled by a triac, which is located in the switch, or maybe changing the resistor that would limit to 110V . I do not know if I am thinking correctly but it seems to me that it is. I am waiting for some hints.

Gentlemen the stator and rotor is 10000% designed for ~110v if it is a high model then maybe the rotor and stator in the purchase is worth it. Full power only by trafo, but min 400W trafo is probably too expensive.

thanks very much


Added after 1 [minute]:

thanks very much and maybe some kind of circuit with a thyristor I have such a large thyristor but no schematic and if it can be done

A bylethal scheme to adjust the vacuum cleaner parts with a few PLN.

Use the formula To view the material on this forum you must be logged in.
and buy a long enough extension cord.


How many times do they have to explain to you what needs to be done?

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this will help
.

fotonn wrote:

Use the formula To view the material on this forum you must be logged in.
and buy a long enough extension cord.

You're serious about this? You want to lose 120V and a few hundred watts on the resistance of the wire? Have you seen such long (km) extension cords in commerce, because I haven't.

Here is the prescription of a colleague whose moderator kicked him off the forum for a witty and accurate post in the Hyde Park section. Proven in practice many timesTo view the material on this forum you must be logged in.

jdubowski wrote:

Switch adapted to different voltages.

- I'm afraid that, unfortunately, the switch has only the load capacity at different voltages indicated on the body, while it needs to be reworked as elek555 wrote

Quote:

Have you seen such long (km) extension cords in commerce, because I have not.

And have you seen, To view the material on this forum you must be logged in. Persistent, gee, he is.
If he can't find an extension cord, he can always lease a couple of kilometers of line from the power company.
He'll let se faze back and forth and lose the excess volts.


Alemucha - but you have a memory!
Thanks for the link. Gives food for thought...

Now, on some "cases".

Gentlemen what needs to be changed hint . To view the material on this forum you must be logged in.

kamil.szostek wrote:

Gents what needs to be changed hint .

After all, in the link you provided, you were told what to find. In each case it is a little somewhere else but it is the same serial element.
If you still do not understand then ask Anubis, he certainly knows and cares about the forum

I have replaced this resistance from 24k to 100k and nothing on the board you can see four of these resistors are connected in series and the last one goes to the resistance path of the switch.And for the curious I will tell you how I connected it to a 230v trafo I don't know how many watts it has but it is large and in series primary with the drill before replacing the resistance the same RPM as after replacing it so maybe someone can suggest what else I am doing wrong To view the material on this forum you must be logged in. .

kamil.szostek wrote:

as I connected it to the 230v trafo I don't know how many watts it has but it's large and in series primary

It would be good if you connected "in parallel " to the 220/110 volt trafo. . Combine with the resistors on the board - replace the right one then it will be OK. The photo doesn't show the potentiometer , so we can't tell you which resistor it is.
Without an ohmmeter and the measurement from this below photo also hard to advise .
still try to replace to 100 kΩ resistor 183 ( the one on the edge of the board).

BROFRAN This is a rear photo i.e. of the potentiometer To view the material on this forum you must be logged in.

kamil.szostek wrote:

BROFRAN This is the rear photo i.e. of the potentiometer ...

-I think you're kidding yourself with this lime
You're expecting a rework for 5gr - then make an effort. Put sharp pics of both sides of the cleaned board, read the writing on the transistors, measure the potentiometer and write normally, not some Chinese borderline. You had a link exposed then you guess instead of thinking. As an apology, draw a schematic of this board. Thinned out professionals with free time so only in the movies "blondes" say which wire to cut.
This type of regulator works a little differently than ordinary dimmers, because it is used for safe commercial activity. It doesn't have a diac and the fun is in safely triggering and turning off when the pressure is reversed. So think or deal with something else

Sorry ALENUCHA I'm posting a diagram made through the ground if there's anything you can do about it then give me a hint To view the material on this forum you must be logged in.

You cracked me up with this alenucha and land? , so I will write back. Something to do? -use the spelling key. It pops you up in red most of the baboos in your answers. Read the inscriptions on the elements because it's worth drawing them out. The latter as to thickness is a small triac on my nose. Give numbers to the elements or write descriptions from them (with a magnifying glass), correct incorrect connections, draw in the stripes on the diodes, draw in the capacitor, motor and power supply and the rest is a piece of cake
-what are those 2 big dots?

Okay I'm giving slack to this scrap,but for a real professional he would just look at this diagram and hint at something and not get into spelling..............................................

kamil.szostek wrote:

for a real professional it would only look at this..........

-I agree, it's just that the real professionals here are a bit scarce (as I wrote). Schematics are now called some misconnected blocks. So what is left is to take care of the spelling and persuade you to think. Then you will find a series element with a potentiometer (with one end of the path in the air), which with so many clues does not require any expertise.