Tightening M10x35 Bolt: Proper Torque 30 Nm + 90 Degrees Explained for Beginners

Hello, maybe a little stupid question, but everyone started out once, which means that the M10x 35 bolt must be tightened with a torque of 30 Nm + 90 degrees. I know that you need to set this value on the key, there is no problem here, but what is it with + 90 degrees? Thank you in advance for your answer.

You tighten a given bolt or nut by 30 Nm and then with any set wrench you tighten it by an angle equal to 90 °.
They usually say how to tighten the head
1. 20 Nm
2.90 °
3.90 °, i.e. first with a dynam key. 20 Nm and then two times 90 ° (the order still applies).

Sometimes the time between consecutive steps is also given.

Such a thing is worth having
https://www.google.pl/search?q=k%C4%85tomierz...WVtAaf_ICgAw&ved=0CAcQ_AUoAQ&biw=1241&bih=593

Exactly what I mean is tightening this shock absorber Link , i.e. I have to tighten it with a force of 30 Nm and then turn the ordinary key 90 degrees?
Do I have to tighten it with a torque wrench? Can I tighten it normally by hand? What are the consequences of a normal hand tightening of a shock absorber?

witek567 wrote:

Exactly what I mean is tightening this shock absorber Link , i.e. I have to tighten it with a force of 30 Nm and then turn the ordinary key 90 degrees?
Do I have to tighten it with a torque wrench? Can I tighten it normally by hand? What are the consequences of a normal hand tightening of a shock absorber?

Man, you know what you write, you know what 30 Nm is with such a short arm, here New Year's Eve with Arnold will not be able to screw it without keys.
Either do not do it because I see you overwhelmed, or do as they say.
These 90 ° are any key with a fairly long arm.

@U.P.
That's why I meant it, because I don't know whether to buy this key, whether this 30Nm value is large or not, so it turns out that I have to buy a key.

giepetto wrote:

So that this key is not more expensive than the exchange service
Invite someone who did anything mechanic, tighten these bolts without any dynamometers ...

Added after 2 [minutes]:
.

I agree with the first sentence, but the second is typical mechanical ignorance.

Hello, as for your considerations, I will write how I do it I-the upper part of the shock absorber attachment (the attachment, the extension is a ratchet and max with feeling-I suspect that you will not break, and will not unscrew) the bottom will be the same and it will be a git-trust me there are no direct forces so they won't unscrew


and as for Arnold, you have a force of 30Nm in your hand and a normal rattle

greetings

dan1974 wrote:

and as for Arnold, you have a force of 30Nm in your hand and a normal rattle

greetings

You know what kind of "pair" he would have to have in his hands, read his post with understanding, he wanted to screw it on with his bare hand, and then what arm do you have - a centimeter, two.

witek567 wrote:

Exactly what I mean is tightening this shock absorber Link , i.e. I have to tighten it with a force of 30 Nm and then turn the ordinary key 90 degrees?
Do I have to tighten it with a torque wrench? Can I tighten it normally by hand? What are the consequences of a normal hand tightening of a shock absorber?

you think it's literally about tightening with your hand - or a wrench in your hand

let's wait for the answer of the questioner

Of course I meant that I would tighten these bolts with a regular wrench, not my hand So there has to be this torque wrench in the end? Because there are different opinions.
EDIT
One last question, is it necessary to converge after installing new shields?

You know what kind of "pair" he would have to have in his hands, read his post with understanding, he wanted to screw it on with his bare hand, and then what arm do you have - a centimeter, two. [/ Quote]


you are quite a reader with understanding: -;

Added after 2 [minutes]:

there is no need for toe-in since these are the rear shock absorbers

tighten the screws to the max and go

It is clear that everything can be complicated. In the initial question, the colleague is basically ready to carry out the exchange but needs an explanation of the mechanism. So the necessity to tighten to the specified torque leaves no doubt. Worse with complementary tightening by 90. And I think the instructions are a bit reimagined for these needs. As this is the principle he applies to screws with high accuracy working under cyclic loads (theoretically a shock absorber does). In theory and sometimes in practice, assumed deformations of the bolt and the friction surfaces are introduced during this supplementary tightening. The value is determined experimentally and it is difficult to determine the value of the moment due to changing conditions. In the case of a shock absorber, however, it is a bit of a form overgrowth with content and it is enough to tighten with the specified torque, appropriate for the size and type of the bolt.

To dan1974 - if someone writes "normally with his hand" instead of writing with "normal wrench" then I understand it with the same hand, just like tightening the oil filter, initial bolts, nuts.
In the mechanical vocabulary, there is such a concept as "by hand", ie without the use of any tools.
Or maybe the guy is some kind of titan and tears with his bare hand 18.

As for using the dyn. I always use it for: spark plugs and glow plugs, injectors, cylinder head.

These 30 Nm + 90 ° is fucking .. a lot.

You will buy a head gasket there, you have everything written there. I have 26Nm and 2 times 90 degrees in my own. But if you have never done it, do not even do it. Then you have to screw the shafts, adjust the timing and do a lot more. It blows you in a few km. Give the car to the mechanic because I see it in black.