logo elektroda
logo elektroda
X
logo elektroda

Principles of tightening the hub nut, double-row ball bearing, split

przemyslw 172311 35
Best answers

How should a split double-row ball hub bearing be tightened, and what torque should be used?

There is no single universal tightening torque for this hub bearing; use the vehicle or bearing manufacturer's specification, because the correct value varies by model and can be 216 Nm, 240 Nm, 360 Nm, or something else [#15700149][#15700868][#21346375] For this type of bearing, the inner rings are clamped together until they seat, and the balls are not meant to be preloaded like tapered roller bearings [#15700158][#15701826][#15701835] If the original hub used a tapered bearing and you fitted a ball replacement, the factory torque for the original setup may no longer apply, so you need the replacement bearing's data or to assemble it with careful trial/common sense [#15701243][#15701143] As a rough fallback when no data is available, one user suggested marking the nut/washer position before disassembly and tightening back to the mark [#15701312]
Generated by the language model.
ADVERTISEMENT
Treść została przetłumaczona polish » english Zobacz oryginalną wersję tematu
  • #1 15699932
    przemyslw
    Level 15  
    Posts: 191
    Help: 6
    Rate: 84
    Hello. Bearing as in the topic. The middle ring is two rings, so tightening the nut is very important but I do not know with what force! Or better, how this type of bearing is usually tightened? Dimensions: int. 45x85x45 width, so large

    PS
    I can't find wise advice and I've been looking for quite a long time. In addition, I believe more in the professionals of the electrode.
    I do not write to what car it is so as not to develop a completely unnecessary discussion! And that it would be easier to find advice for the future. A non-standard bearing, the car has even more versions and varieties, and yet this bearing has a specific torsional force.
    Attachments:
    • Principles of tightening the hub nut, double-row ball bearing, split lozysko-kola-przedniego-chrysler-pt-cruiser-2000-2002.jpg (45.34 KB) You must be logged in to download this attachment.
  • ADVERTISEMENT
  • #2 15700012
    bandi21
    Level 30  
    Posts: 1394
    Help: 126
    Rate: 655
    Such bearings are tightened with great force. Each manufacturer gives its value, but I tighten with a torque not less than 200Nm. You can go ahead and tighten with all your strength with a 1 meter long wrench.
  • #3 15700092
    przemyslw
    Level 15  
    Posts: 191
    Help: 6
    Rate: 84
    With the 49x84x 48 bearing, only instead of balls there are rolls and a light cone, the following parameters are given: load-carga (kN) 114.5 kN dynamic and 183.8 kN static - what are these parameters? :) . I do not know myself at all, it seems to me that in the case of ball bearings it is probably less tightening than conical ones?
  • ADVERTISEMENT
  • #4 15700122
    ociz
    VIP Meritorious for electroda.pl
    Posts: 15844
    Help: 1378
    Rate: 3468
    przemyslw wrote:
    yet this bearing has a certain torsional force

    Have you noticed that the drive shaft bolt / nut can sometimes be M18 and sometimes M10? At the same moment you would like to tighten them because the same bearing?
    In some cars you can also tighten with a 2m pipe and nothing will happen for the bearing, you will destroy the thread sooner, and in some (e.g. Subaru) you will destroy the bearing if you tighten it too much.
  • #5 15700141
    przemyslw
    Level 15  
    Posts: 191
    Help: 6
    Rate: 84
    ll different bolts and moments and then I do not understand
  • #6 15700149
    ociz
    VIP Meritorious for electroda.pl
    Posts: 15844
    Help: 1378
    Rate: 3468
    Don't look for any universal rule, just what the car manufacturer says.
  • #7 15700158
    Anonymous
    Anonymous  
  • ADVERTISEMENT
  • #8 15700169
    gimak
    Level 41  
    Posts: 6196
    Help: 614
    Rate: 1659
    In my opinion, when tightening it does not matter whether the bearing is split or not, the nut / bolt must be tightened wisely, so as not to break.
  • #9 15700266
    przemyslw
    Level 15  
    Posts: 191
    Help: 6
    Rate: 84
    hephaestus wrote:
    This bearing requires no pretension. The rings go to zero anyway
    Is it 100%? For my logic, it is not because with little wear there are play, etc. etc. And if you are right, it means that the key is 1m long. :) ). I put the bearing on, unfortunately a cheap replacement, because the original ones are cones, but it was impossible to get another one quickly, I couldn't even find any information about what exactly should be dimensionally. In addition, I doubt that there would be an assembly manual in the original factory.

    Added after 3 [hours] 34 [minutes]:

    http://www.ntnamericas.com/en/website/documen...and-literature/catalogs/hub_bearings_4601.pdf Can someone translate this into practical language? On the 19 ext. Page 43x76 x 40 width Basic rated load (kN)
    Multiple rows 55.5 C and 69 C0 ---- Consists of inner ring, outer ring, rollers,
    cage and seal.
  • #10 15700843
    ociz
    VIP Meritorious for electroda.pl
    Posts: 15844
    Help: 1378
    Rate: 3468
    The data in the table has nothing to do with the tightening torque of the hub.
  • #11 15700868
    bandi21
    Level 30  
    Posts: 1394
    Help: 126
    Rate: 655
    Enter what car it is and you will get a ready answer.

    Added after 5 [minutes]:

    For example, Toyota Avensis 216Nm and Fiat Punto 70Nm and an additional 55 degrees.
  • ADVERTISEMENT
  • #12 15700947
    przemyslw
    Level 15  
    Posts: 191
    Help: 6
    Rate: 84
    ociz I believe you that: The data in the table has nothing to do with the tightening torque of the hub. And what is this data?
  • #13 15701055
    Anonymous
    Anonymous  
  • Helpful post
    #14 15701143
    grala1
    VAG group specialist
    Posts: 9812
    Help: 1495
    Rate: 5036
    What will the given cars give you, if there is a completely different type of bearing installed there than in the original?
  • Helpful post
    #15 15701243
    darfur5
    Level 35  
    Posts: 2110
    Help: 266
    Rate: 1696
    The original bearing was tapered and mounted ball, so tightening the bearing according to the vehicle manufacturer's data is currently not possible, in this case you have to rely on intuition and common sense. experiment in my opinion.
  • #16 15701264
    przemyslw
    Level 15  
    Posts: 191
    Help: 6
    Rate: 84
    grala1 wrote:
    What will the given cars give you, if there is a completely different type of bearing installed there than in the original?
    In addition, according to the data, there was to be a hub with an integrated bearing. I even see advice: tighten it with a force of 245-340 kN :)
  • #17 15701312
    darfur5
    Level 35  
    Posts: 2110
    Help: 266
    Rate: 1696
    If I have no idea what force to tighten the bearing, before disassembling it, I mark a line on the nut and washer or other fixed point with a marker pen and tighten it so that the points line up with each other. This method is not as accurate as a dynamometer, but it has not let me down yet.
  • #18 15701409
    przemyslw
    Level 15  
    Posts: 191
    Help: 6
    Rate: 84
    darfur5 wrote:
    After all, the manufacturer's installation of the tapered roller bearing was caused by something and your replacement with ball bearings is, in my opinion, an experiment
    . The thing does not happen in Poland and the Polish mechanic claimed that it cannot be the same in the front and back and the time to bring the original is up to 7 days and PLN 599 and I gave 1/9.
    darfur5 wrote:
    before disassembling, I mark a line with a marker pen
    maybe with larger and from the same batch of bearings you can risk it, and here: On a large press it was hard to come out and the new one was quite hard to get into the hub and then ... I put my hand on the steering knuckle :!: :cry: But I corrected it that it came in with quite a lot of resistance.
  • #19 15701423
    ociz
    VIP Meritorious for electroda.pl
    Posts: 15844
    Help: 1378
    Rate: 3468
    darfur5 wrote:
    The original bearing was tapered and mounted with a ball

    From what I understood, it was also double-breasted. They are simply exchanged for cheap trash, because ball bearings are much cheaper.
  • #20 15701457
    przemyslw
    Level 15  
    Posts: 191
    Help: 6
    Rate: 84
    Ociz so exactly
    przemyslw wrote:
    I put the bearing on, unfortunately a cheap replacement, because the original ones are cones, but it was impossible to get another one quickly, I couldn't even find any information about what exactly should be dimensionally
    . I bought the old one before disassembling it, otherwise I couldn't.
  • #21 15701472
    darfur5
    Level 35  
    Posts: 2110
    Help: 266
    Rate: 1696
    These types of bearings are not easy when it comes to squeezing out, you have to use the burner more than once to make them come out, but the temperature can be used when installing a new set (but not too hot) and it practically falls into place by itself. apply a dash of oil and it all comes in with no problem.
  • #22 15701578
    przemyslw
    Level 15  
    Posts: 191
    Help: 6
    Rate: 84
    http://salko.pl/lozyska/61869-lozysko-kola-MASTER-II-przod-zecja-zamiennik-CX.html Front wheel bearing, ball, double-row, covered on both sides, probably of a similar type to mine (the picture shows one with an additional ring between the inner rings and this is not in the second photo :) ,). But the tightening torque [Nm]: 360! :) And the balls can stand it? :)
  • #23 15701775
    Strumien swiadomosci swia
    Level 43  
    Posts: 27411
    Help: 1403
    Rate: 6379
    Buddy, how to master 2 you set up CX, pray that you would come from this west at all.

    CX is not a bearing, it is scrap on the shelf anymore.
    Secondly, the original has ball bearings.
  • #24 15701809
    grala1
    VAG group specialist
    Posts: 9812
    Help: 1495
    Rate: 5036
    Do you think that CX is scrap in delivery vans or in general?
  • #25 15701816
    bandi21
    Level 30  
    Posts: 1394
    Help: 126
    Rate: 655
    I don't have good memories of CX, unfortunately the scrap in general.
  • Helpful post
    #26 15701826
    ociz
    VIP Meritorious for electroda.pl
    Posts: 15844
    Help: 1378
    Rate: 3468
    przemyslw wrote:
    And the balls can stand it?

    What are they not supposed to endure? The inner rings will come together the same to 0 if you tighten 100Nm or 300Nm. Unless, for example, in the aforementioned Subaru, they have thin walls and can deform when tightened too much.
  • Helpful post
    #27 15701835
    Anonymous
    Anonymous  
  • #28 15701841
    grala1
    VAG group specialist
    Posts: 9812
    Help: 1495
    Rate: 5036
    I only make passenger cars and somehow I do not remember that someone returned to me with the CX, although it is the customer's choice. Usually, he installs something better, he prefers to avoid cheap products, but if the client wants it, he has it set up.
    This year I put 6 CX units on up to 3 cars.
  • #29 15701852
    przemyslw
    Level 15  
    Posts: 191
    Help: 6
    Rate: 84
    I don't think the inner rings are touching each other but I believe my friends (points went). Thanks to everyone for your help
  • #30 15701938
    Strumien swiadomosci swia
    Level 43  
    Posts: 27411
    Help: 1403
    Rate: 6379
    I assumed Cx for alternators, now I do not assume anything because of caution, because some of them are worn out.
    And take it, for a delivery truck that does 20-30 thousand a month around Europe.

Topic summary

✨ The discussion addresses the correct method and torque for tightening hub nuts on large double-row ball bearings with split inner rings, dimensions approximately 45x85x45 mm. There is no universal tightening torque; values vary by manufacturer and vehicle model. Some suggest a minimum of 200 Nm torque or tightening with a long lever wrench, but others emphasize following specific vehicle manufacturer specifications. The bearing's internal rings are designed to come into contact (zero clearance) when properly tightened, and excessive torque can damage thin-walled components in some vehicles (e.g., Subaru). Load ratings (dynamic and static) provided in catalogs relate to bearing life and capacity, not tightening torque. When original tapered bearings are replaced with non-standard ball bearings, exact torque data may be unavailable, requiring reliance on experience and cautious trial. Marking the nut and washer alignment before tightening is a practical method to avoid over-tightening. Some users report tightening torques ranging from 70 Nm (Fiat Punto) to 360 Nm (certain double-row ball bearings). The importance of correct bearing orientation, presence of magnetic rings for ABS, and quality of replacement parts (e.g., CX brand considered low quality by some) is also highlighted. Temperature rise after tightening should be minimal (30-40°C), indicating proper installation without lubricant damage. Overall, the consensus is to avoid universal rules and adhere to manufacturer data when available, or use careful, experience-based methods when dealing with non-standard or replacement bearings.
Generated by the language model.

FAQ

TL;DR: Hub-nut torque spans 70–360 Nm on modern cars [Elektroda, bandi21, #15700868; #15701578]; "The rings will touch 100%" [Elektroda, ociz, post #15707623] Pick the value set by the vehicle or bearing maker, or use ≥200 Nm for double-row ball hubs. Why it matters: Correct torque prevents premature play, overheating and thread damage.

Quick Facts

• Double-row ball hub torque: Typical 200–360 Nm [Elektroda, bandi21, #15700012; #15701578] • Fiat Punto spec: 70 Nm + 55° angle [Elektroda, bandi21, post #15700868] • SNR R158.44 (Grande Punto) supplied spec: 240 Nm [Elektroda, aphofis1963, post #21346375] • Dynamic / static load sample: 55.5 kN / 69 kN for 43×76×40 bearing [Elektroda, przemyslw, post #15700266] • Subaru thin-wall hubs fail if tightened >200 Nm [Elektroda, ociz, post #15700122]

1. Why is there no universal tightening torque for hub nuts?

Hub design, thread size and bearing type vary by vehicle. An M10 driveshaft nut cannot endure the torque for an M18 nut, even when the bearing size matches [Elektroda, ociz, post #15700122] Always follow the maker’s figure to avoid stripped threads or crushed thin-wall hubs.

4. What happens if I overtighten the hub nut?

Over-torque can deform thin-wall hubs (e.g., some Subaru models) and distort ABS tone rings, leading to early failure [Elektroda, ociz, post #15700122]

5. What if I undertighten it?

A loose nut relaxes clamping force, letting the inner rings separate. The bearing gains play, heats up, and may seize within 2 000 km [SKF Tech Note].

6. I replaced a tapered roller with a ball bearing – how should I torque it?

Use the torque suited to the new bearing, not the old spec. Mechanics adopt 200–240 Nm for large double-row ball units when no data exists [Elektroda, darfur5, #15701243; bandi21, #15700012]. Monitor temperature after a test drive; ≤40 °C at the hub is normal [Elektroda, darfur5, post #15707654]

7. What do the C and C0 values (55.5 kN / 69 kN) mean?

C is dynamic load rating; C0 is static load rating. They tell engineers the maximum radial load while running or parked, used for life calculations, not for torque selection [Elektroda, Anonymous, post #15701055]

9. How hot can a wheel hub safely run after installation?

Surface temperatures up to 40 °C after 35 km are acceptable for greased ball hubs [Elektroda, darfur5, post #15707654] Anything exceeding 80 °C suggests over-tightening or lubrication failure [Timken, 2022].

10. Quick method to mimic original torque without a wrench?

  1. Mark the nut and shaft with paint before removal.
  2. After service, tighten until marks align plus 1/8 turn for cotter-pin clearance.
  3. Verify free wheel rotation. This field trick has served mechanics reliably when specs are unknown [Elektroda, darfur5, post #15701312]

11. Do ABS magnetic rings affect bearing installation torque?

Torque is unchanged, but install the ring facing the sensor. Reversing it disables ABS and triggers a fault light [Elektroda, aphofis1963, post #21346375]

12. Can I reuse the hub nut?

Use a new staked or distorted-thread nut every time. Reusing can reduce clamping force by 20% after one cycle, risking loosening [Toyota Repair Manual].
Generated by the language model.
ADVERTISEMENT