Seat Alhambra 1.9 tdi 130 KM - Blue smoke when starting a cold engine

I see that we have a few controversial issues, let me quote my colleague:

And with such damage to the sensor, it should do this number each time it is launched, not only on a cold engine.
The candles in this car heat up longer than the indicator light is on, and at the same temperature as it is now and the candles are warm, there is no whip so that he does not fire a larger dose of fuel, he would smoke black and not white.


In connection with this entry, I have to write that I often observe a long burning time of the candle light, but not always. Statistically 8 out of 10 burns for a long time (despite hot weather) 2 out of 10 go out right away.
During start-up, not a white, but a blue smack appears (after standing all night).
When the engine is hot and the indicator is on for a long time, there is a smoke, but it is much smaller and then it is noticeably dark black.
I would also like to add that the oil level does not drop (4,000 traveled since replacement, condition as the day after replacement. Oh, I would also like to add that the morning start-up does not cause other complications, as with some other complications, i.e. uneven work, etc.

He burns from the shot and immediately works evenly.

During slow driving, he does not smoke, a characteristic dark cloud appears after more severe treatment. He does not smoke when driving blue.

eh. A diesel if it is cold when it does not burn oil well, it farts white or blue, and blue if it does not burn well. When heated, it will burn through and let it go black. An indicator lamp and a wave of rotation indicate the temperature sensor. I have not heard that the drivers used in the VW had a problem with the temperature reading by themselves, it's not good. "While driving slowly, it does not smoke, after more severe treatment, a characteristic dark cloud appears. When driving blue, it does not smoke." - means mechanically you have an engine approx.

Dr.Zepsuj wrote:

eh. A diesel if it is cold when it does not burn oil well, it farts white or blue, and blue if it does not burn well. When heated, it will burn through and let it go black. An indicator lamp and a wave of rotation indicate the temperature sensor. I have not heard that the drivers used in the VW had a problem with the temperature reading by themselves, it's not good. "While driving slowly, it does not smoke, after more severe treatment, a characteristic dark cloud appears. When driving blue, it does not smoke." - means mechanically you have an engine approx.

Nonsense!
A healthy, fully functional diesel engine does not smoke at all. Any signs of smoke are either a disturbed fuel / air ratio or material wear (rings, cylinder linings, valve seals or turbines).

With this damage to the candles, it is probably not always the case that diesel is smoking. deviating a bit from the topic, I will write that I had a Scenica 1.9 dci before. Only when it stopped firing at -16 degrees, I found out that no candles are heated, yet he did not smoke at all. Well, unless I pulled it in a lower gear, then a normal black cloud on the back.
I am now on vacation, I can not do anything with the seat, but when I come back, I put it in the recommended, supposedly good mechanic. Maybe something will become clear. Greetings from Jastrzębia Góra !!!

Hello, after a long break. Today I picked up the car from the garage. The temperature sensor has been replaced, the candle light is no longer crazy and it does not turn on when the fan wants to. There is some success. However, this repair did not eliminate start-up smoke after an extended stoppage. The mechanic said that this smoke may be caused by a worn unit injector, that these engines seem to have a higher starting dose (?) And that the toad does not burn through when the injection is passed. Besides, I don't know if it could have anything to do with the case, but there is a leaky intercooler tube. Basically, there are two options, either learn to live with it or have the injectors checked (I don't know how, but he said the third was passing). Unfortunately, he had little time to deal with the subject and a more detailed inspection, because I needed the car very much, we still have an appointment to check the EGR, because it probably cuts, although I do not know how much truth in it, because as I wrote, the car does not kick while driving .

Hello. everyone involved in the topic.
Perhaps the owner has already dealt with the topic and may share what was the reason? I am writing here because I have a similar problem, when starting a light blue smoke, (Ford Galaxy 1.9 tdi 2002r tiptronik 102 Kw) I am writing a similar one because I have not yet had time to observe how the candle light behaves, I checked the candles with the light bulb and there is a switch to all 4 candles, and I also drive the car for a short time, only a few days. By the way, maybe someone would like to write how many such cars with such a gearbox burn on average?
I will be grateful for suggestions, and most importantly to the author of the topic for the fact that he will write if and how he solved the problem.

I'm also curious what the cause of the blue smoke was.

greetings

Probelm has not been resolved and will not stay at least because of me. 6 months ago, someone cut the catalytic converter out of my car. Since then, and not only was he smoking it, it also smelled incredibly. It was too much, I made the decision to sell. I haven't had the Alhambra anymore for over a month. Thanks to everyone for your interest in the topic.

Hello, so many years have passed since a friend described the problem with the pride of the Alhambra. I have had the same problem for two years and every now and then I go through posts with similar problems. But there is no clear answer anywhere. I was going to replace the turbo but I'll let it go, personally I bet that it's probably the injection pumps that go crazy until they fail, I don't replace.

If you smoke ONLY after firing, let go of the topic, because PD engines are not cheap when it comes to tinkering with them.

In most cases, these are worn-out injection pump seats and/or worn-out seals (orings). Unfortunately, this is a disadvantage of these motors (one screw and paw holds it only on one side). To do it properly, you have to insert the sleeves into the sockets and unfortunately it is not cheap. I know from experience that the pump also wears off and in order for it to last longer (100,000 km +), it would be appropriate to give new pumps. For a while, the installation of new seals helps (you need to polish sharp edges before assembly). Depending on the degree of wear, new rubber bands and copper washers last more or less. But if the pump flies sideways in the socket, even new pads and rubber bands will not do a miracle.

sigwa18 wrote:

But how does the pump fly in the nest

Then you have difficulty starting after a stop.

And it depends on the degree of wear. The beginning is after a layover on a cold morning. Then always after a stop. And in the end, you have to want him to get caught in a curtain of smoke every time.