1.6hdi 90KM: Dealing with Irritating Smoke and Unburned Pus During Morning Start

Hello,

I have a problem that has been discussed on the forum more than once and everyone proposes to solve it differently.

In my case, it is manifested by the fact that during the night stop and the morning start of the car, smoke comes out of the pipe for a moment, irritating when you smell it - it seems blue but I'm not entirely convinced.

The car fires without any problems, whether warm or cold. Always as they say from the arrow.
I did not notice that the coolant was getting smaller.
The condition of the oil is the same as 8 thousand ago.
5w30 oil.

I will add that after the first firing, when I drive and leave the car for the engine to cool down, when you start it you cannot see any smoke but you can smell the same irritating smell.

The pp or diagnox diagnostics show no errors. The temperatures on the sensors in the morning are the same as the ambient temperatures. There is no glow plug error.

I wonder if it is oil or oil.

How to check if the turbine is leaking oil and it is not causing this smoke?

Some people write about valve seals.

The injectors are not stuck with oil.

The only thing that I noticed was the chirping of one injection with the timing, probably number 4. After tightening the effect ceased to occur.

I do not know what the cause may be and where to look for a solution.

emswisnia wrote:

irritating when smelled - it appears blue in color

This is what I had with the damaged EGR in the C-Max 2.0 CDTI, the "mushroom" broke in it and it was open to the maximum all the time, it was just like the smoke, only the car only went on free.

Bent connecting rod and same effect.

leonov wrote:

emswisnia wrote:

irritating when smelled - it appears blue in color

This is what I had with the damaged EGR in the C-Max 2.0 CDTI, the "mushroom" broke in it and it was open to the maximum all the time, it was just like the smoke, only the car only went on free.

There is no smoke when driving me. The car's power is normal for 90HP.
If it was EGR, has it not detected that there is something wrong with it during the diagnosis? The more diagnox shows the degree of valve opening.

emswisnia wrote:

If it was EGR, has it not detected that there is something wrong with it during the diagnosis?

The program should detect errors. You have to look further, compression pressure, injection angle, etc.

leonov wrote:

emswisnia wrote:

If it was EGR, has it not detected that there is something wrong with it during the diagnosis?

The program should detect errors. You have to look further, compression pressure, injection angle, etc.

Do you want to check the injection angle in the CR? Probably not for the purpose of regulation? I would check the candles, because due to the access and the fact that they are easy to break, they can be the culprit.

I had such a case, it was caused by burned pistons. The second post flew.

sly_1978 wrote:

leonov wrote:

emswisnia wrote:

If it was EGR, has it not detected that there is something wrong with it during the diagnosis?

The program should detect errors. You have to look further, compression pressure, injection angle, etc.

Do you want to check the injection angle in the CR? Probably not for the purpose of regulation? I would check the candles, because due to the access and the fact that they are easy to break, they can be the culprit.

I think the candles would also be PP or diagbox to immediately detect that something is wrong with them.

It is possible that the turbo lets the oil flow from the hot side and burns it when firing it?

Could injection be the culprit?
There are a lot of people who have the same problem and most bet that valve seals or injection seals need to be replaced.

First, check if fuel or oh. The smell is different, but someone has to recognize it.

It is irritating smoke from pus.

I would advise you to check at the beginning if the car has a catalytic converter, because various miracles happen after inventive dealers. The second thing is if the glow plugs are in working order and they are getting voltage. The fact that there are no errors does not mean anything, because the "idea" is cutting the table of errors. It is known that replacing candles in 1.6 HDI is risky ...

daras41 wrote:

The second thing is if the glow plugs are in working order and they are getting voltage. The fact that there are no errors does not mean anything

I wanted to write the same. I had an identical problem with the Focus mk2 1.6 tdci 90HP, the engine of which is a copy of the French 1.6hdi. There was also an acrid stench of unburned oil just after starting a cold engine. I had three glow plugs burned (no transition). After replacement, acrid smoke after start-up reduced almost to zero. Mileage 200 thousand km, I have it from the news.

The 1.6 tdci engine (and probably 1.6 hdi) does not indicate a blown glow plug error on the board. Unfortunately, it fires easily even with all candles burnt, even at low temperatures. The only symptom is vibration and uneven engine operation for the first few seconds after firing, and the acrid smoke of unburned oil. To avoid the inconvenient replacement of blind candles, I suggest you first measure their resistance. Access is very difficult, I measured mine from the side of the candle relay, which is much easier to reach. You just need to know on which pins of the relay plug you need to check the transition to ground.

The 1.6 tdci engine (and probably 1.6 hdi) heats the glow plugs up to three minutes after starting the cold engine (eg after a night "under the cloud"), even in the summer. This is in order to stabilize the operation of the cold engine and reduce the emission of harmful compounds in the exhaust gas. Unfortunately, this has a negative effect on the life of the candles.

And one more thing, before replacing the candles, I checked the exhaust gases at the diagnostic station with a smoke level analyzer in a different range of revolutions and engine load. In order to eliminate a potential problem with the injectors. The smoke was normal. My version of the focus is still without DPF.

Have you checked those candles on the computer? Has any errors associated with them?
I do not know if I am wrong, but when it comes to diagnostics, the PSA group copes well with the description of faults - in the second car with the 1.6HDI engine, but 110KM there is one candle damaged and the error pops up ..

In my case, after a night standing and firing, it will jerk the engine for a moment and let go of the acrid smoke from the pipe.
Subsequent firing up until the engine is not warmed up manifests itself only with a pungent smell from the pipe, without the engine vibrating.
When the engine is warm, it does not have any acrid smell.

I will just add that when the engine is warm, above 3500 rpm it will emit black smoke at a standstill, so that it leaves a mark on the ankle.

Additionally, today it showed two errors during diagnostics: P1471 and P0122.

This is how the injectors work from the engine start:

emswisnia wrote:

Have you checked those candles on the computer? Has any errors associated with them?

No, I did not do computer diagnostics, I only measured the candle transition as described.

emswisnia wrote:

In my case, after a night standing and firing, it will jerk the engine for a moment and let go of the acrid smoke from the pipe.

For me it was exactly the same, even in the summer after a night stop. After replacing the candles, the problem was resolved, now the engine, after firing in the morning, works immediately evenly and does not release as much acrid smoke. You can feel the exhaust fumes very gently, for a very short time and only near the exhaust pipe itself. Previously, I had to turn off the air supply and close the windows when firing up because I felt the exhaust fumes in the cabin intensely. Now it's not there.

emswisnia wrote:

When the engine is warm, it does not have any acrid smell.

Exactly the same as in my case. There was also no power drop, no increased fuel consumption, no oil consumption, no smoking or anything else.

emswisnia wrote:

I will only add that when the engine is warm, above 3500 rpm it will emit black smoke at the stop, so that it leaves a mark on the ankle.

In the case of a diesel without DPF (FAP), it is normal, if you step on a stop (or while driving), it has the right to smoke for a while. The question is, do you have DPF (FAP)?

For peace of mind, go to a diagnostic station that has a good smoke analyzer and check, I did. The diagnostician only confirmed to me that, unfortunately, these engines have a problem with the injectors after a few years, which is manifested by excessive smoking. For some time now, they routinely check all older tdci and hdi on the exhaust gas analyzer during the inspection. For me, there was no problem with smoking even before replacing the candles.

Maybe I'll check these candles although the access is terrible.
PP2000 does not inform that there is something wrong with them.

After warming up the engine, there is no stench like in the case of morning start-up.

In the morning, the engine runs unevenly for a while, maybe 2-3 seconds, and then it's ok.
Subsequent firing up until the engine warms up only produces an irritating smell from the pipe.
On the other hand, when the engine warms up, there is no smoke or irritating smell.

With this smell in the cabin, this is something to do, because often when I start you can feel the exhaust fumes even in the cabin.
Can you tell me how to check the candles based on this diagram?

On the rear of the engine, behind the EGR tube, there is a plug that connects the installation with the plug harness. I checked by giving a plus to each pin in turn.

emswisnia wrote:

Maybe I will check these candles although the access is terrible.

It's a fact, the designers of this engine should be torn off, no matter what. There, even reaching with a multimeter to measure the transition and voltage on the candles is almost impossible, and I will not mention replacing the candles.
That's why I checked from the side of the relay, which just in the Focus is easier to reach, is from the bottom of the engine, at the front, attached to the left side member. However, I had to lift the car, badly without it, but it's still better than replacing the candles blind with the risk of twisting them.

You also need to find this relay in your French, maybe it's in the same place, since it's almost the same engine. In your diagram, this is item A.9. First you disconnect the battery so as not to make some accidental short circuit. Then you disconnect the relay plug from which the cables go towards the candles. You need to identify the pins in the plug that correspond to individual candles, in the diagram you have it described as 2, 7, 1, 6. Between these pins and ground you check the resistance, if it is close to zero, it's ok, if infinity the candle is burnt out.

Do not replace the candles until you are sure that they are burned out, due to the dire access and risk of twisting. Although after the symptoms, and especially after those few seconds of uneven work after start-up, I almost certainly put on candles. Fortunately for me, none of them got stuck in the exchange.
No workshop or even an authorized service station, unfortunately, takes responsibility in the event of twisting the candles, the potential costs of removing the head are passed on to the customer. To make matters worse, some repairers claim that without unscrewing the candles, they cannot tell that the candles are blown.
I paid 170 PLN for the replacement of candles (2 hours of work), which with such terrible access, I think that it is ok.

Deviation in the work of 1.8mg injectors with a plus or minus mean something wrong with the injection work?
Does the sum of mg from injections have to be 0?

emswisnia wrote:

Deviation in the work of 1.8mg injectors in plus or minus means something wrong with the injection work?
Does the sum of mg from injections have to be 0?

Maybe it will help you something.

sly_1978 wrote:

emswisnia wrote:

Deviation in the work of 1.8mg injectors in plus or minus means something wrong with the injection work?
Does the sum of mg from injections have to be 0?

Maybe it will help you something.
http://ifotos.pl/z/sxsehrr/
http://ifotos.pl/z/sewhxnn/

Everything is good, that after starting the car at idle, it does not have 850 revs, the more if the engine warms up even. On warm as it is not mistaken, it is 750 rpm

emswisnia wrote:

sly_1978 wrote:

emswisnia wrote:

Deviation in the work of 1.8mg injectors in plus or minus means something wrong with the injection work?
Does the sum of mg from injections have to be 0?

Maybe it will help you something.
http://ifotos.pl/z/sxsehrr/
http://ifotos.pl/z/sewhxnn/

Everything is good, that after starting the car at idle, it does not have 850 revs, the more if the engine warms up even. On warm as it is not mistaken, it is 750 rev

This is what I would be paying the least attention to.

In 1.6 hdi EDC16c34, candles are diagnosed by the controller and damage to 1 pc is already signaled. Correction -1.3 is already pouring injection and you can hear the engine knocking even without lifting the hood, do something about it.

Which injection should I replace?
I just have one functional, after verification, I could replace it.

I was not sure what it was like with the diagnostics of candles, but it seemed to me that the computer should inform when something is wrong with them.
In the second car there is a candle that works and once it does not work and lexia (Citroen) detects a problem with the candle.

Firing up:


Injection / injections ticking:


After tightening the plugs:

Replace the one with the greatest negative correction.

How do you think the use of liqui moly diesel spülung can improve something or rather throw it into fairy tales?
If this is something, how to apply?

All the injectors with the same markings were replaced and the fuel filter was replaced.
Problem has been solved. Some injection was probably the cause.