Seat Alhambra 1.9 tdi 130 KM - Blue smoke when starting a cold engine

Hello everyone, for some time I have been the owner of the Seat Alhambra 1.9 TDI 130KM, 2003. My problem is that when starting a cold engine, e.g. after a night, I get blue smoke. I only smoke for a moment, then I can't see the smoke anymore. I would like to add that the car starts by touch, it works normally (not shaking) immediately after starting. One of the mechanics said that there is oil in the intake system and that it must be the turbo down. I do not know what to think about it, because the car accelerates very well and despite its quite large weight it is very lively.

Where can this oil come from, does anyone have any suggestions? Am I really doomed to replace the turbo (according to the documents from the previous owner, the turbine was regenerated in July 2012)

Regards, warmly and thanks in advance for the information !!!

Is it the turbine pipe or the intake manifold?
If about the turbine pipe, on which side (exhaust gas or air.)

At take-off, it does not burn diesel fuel, so it fumes, maybe any glow plug has gone out, easy to check with a mechanic & electrician. Later it heats up and burns approx.
If you noticed that the candle light goes out faster than before, then any candle is damaged in the winter, it will be a problem and the rest of the candles may burn out over time.
If the candles are ok, you need to look further.

Hmm ... As for the intake, I have to call the mechanic because I don't remember.

And because of the candle light ... it's quite warm, the car drove 3 km after the night and from seven in the morning it is standing in the parking lot, I approached it now, the light was on for about one second. I don't know if it's long or short, because I've only been driving it for a few weeks.

In total, the turbo does not turn on immediately after firing, but from certain revolutions, I think ...

nodzy wrote:

the oil does not burn blue.

And on as? on red ?

nodzy wrote:

At take-off, it does not burn diesel fuel, so it fumes blue

Bravo, bravo and one more applause. And you are called a mechanic?

If there is oil in the intake, the turbine may let go, the mechanic was right.
Smoke after a long stop and for a while, often valve seals need to be replaced.

Blue smoke - Oil.
White smoke - Water / liquid
Black smoke - Oil

Buddy K-Sierra, be careful with your words. Compressed unburned pus is not black, think a little instead of writing what saliva will bring to your tongue. And where is the oil, you probably thought of it yourself and answered, because the author does not know it himself.

dj.krzychoo wrote:

As for the intake, I have to call the mechanic because I don't remember.

Added after 5 [minutes]:

k-sierra wrote:

If there is oil in the intake, the turbine may let go, the mechanic was right.
Smoke after a long stop and for a while, often valve seals need to be replaced.

So how is it finally the mechanic was right? or sealants to be replaced ??
and maybe sealants and a turbine?

Unburned fuel is usually light smoke, black fuel is excess carbon - not completely burned fuel because of its excess in relation to air. And cheeky blue or light blue smoke is just engine oil. The bottom line - is engine oil depleting?

You can laugh at me, but some diselki have so old and used oil that you won't see a blue one. I haven't had a newer oil eater for a long time, so I was out of practice. Crude oil actually gives an almost white cloud to my mistake.

Cool, sorry. I reacted a bit too harshly.


Well, and here you haven't read it; p

nodzy wrote:

And where is the oil, you probably thought of it yourself and answered, because the author does not know it himself.

According to me, he clearly wrote

dj.krzychoo wrote:

One of the mechanics stated that there was oil in the intake system

If it only smokes blue a moment after firing, maybe it's a matter of worn valve seals?

Buddy Robokop, it cannot be denied that the oil is losing a bit. After driving 2000 km, the dip from half of the state dropped to about 1/4. So some 2,000 km more and it will be a minimum.
I wonder what will happen when firing it in the winter. It may be that I am gassing half the estate, it will smoke this way, which is worse ;-)

Added after 4 [minutes]:

On Friday, I put the car in the same mechanic who suspects the turbine. I don't know if it's a good way, but the guy has to remove the hoses to check the turbine impeller clearance with his hand.

As soon as I know something more, I will write on the forum. Thanks in advance for your interest in my topic !!!

Hello,

On Saturday I picked up the car from the mechanic. Apparently, the turbine has no play, so it is ok. Oil in the inlet, as the mechanic claims, may appear due to a choked pneumothorax (the engine also shows a lot of leaks from the valve cover area). Turbo is rather eliminated, there is still the puzzle of smoking at start-up, I checked the glow plugs today, they all heat up. Some time ago, a colleague was hooking up to VAG, he did not detect errors.

Maybe it was, in fact, as one of my colleagues wrote, worn valve seals. The car has flown 220000 km (rather not reversed)

This mechanic also said there might be something EGR, hence the smoke.
Besides, I found out that two of us are barely alive. You have to collect money

Then check the pressure in the cylinders, it will explain to you whether the rings or valve seals

Hello, I'm sorry I haven't spoken for so long, but I'm still trying as best I can to figure out what the fuck is all about.

Unfortunately, I did not check the pressure in the cylinders (there was no time), however, there are new facts about the case. Well, when replacing the valve timing, the mechanic replaced the gasket under the valve cover and fumbled something with the pump. The result is that I drove 4,000 km after changing the oil and nothing was lost from the dipstick (the engine is sealed, the problem with oil losses is gone).

Therefore, I assume that it is not the oil that burns during the start-up, especially as the mechanior suggested that there is a clear smell of oil from this soot.

During these 4,000 km, I noticed something else. Well, what temperatures we have now, we all know. Nevertheless, very often the candle light does not go out immediately after turning the key, it even burns all the time, then when starting the engine immediately jumps to the speed above 1000 rpm and smokes really hard.

If the light goes out immediately (as it also happens), the engine will also throw a cloud, but much smaller. I would like to add that the candles were checked and they are ok, turbo ok, the two-mass is supposedly weak, but it probably has no effect on my symptoms, mileage 230,000, rather not retracted, oil does not take.

Anyone have any ideas ???

If you don't measure the pressure, you won't learn anything. This is the basic research in this situation. It is a pity that the mechanic, when he had it in his paws, did not do it.

dj.krzychoo wrote:

very often the candle light does not go out immediately after turning the key, it is on all the time,

Coolant temperature sensor to be replaced.

Hello, thanks for the quick response ;-)

I am wondering about one detail, well, one of my colleagues stated that the temperature sensor was damaged, but the indicator on the board is working properly.

Maybe there are two sensors ...

Well, I took a photo of the engine compartment and the arrow marked a sensor on the coolant hose. Could this be the one responsible for the candles heating time?

https://obrazki.elektroda.pl/9207448500_1375859821.jpg

Added after 2 [minutes]:

Buddy Nodzy, today I will call the mechanic, I will try to arrange a pressure measurement somehow. Until I am afraid of the results ...

Even new diesel engines can smoke blue and white on a cold engine for a while and this is not subject to warranty repair.

Yes Megawe, you are right, but what is happening to me is not normal, the smoke is very big, especially when the candle holder does not go out. I'm trying to call my mechanic to check the pressure, but his phone is off. When I am after the measurements, I will let you know what and how.

A request for a hint about the sensor in the photo I attached ...

greetings

In my opinion, this is not a temperature measurement sensor, but an air flow meter (on the air pipe after the intercooler). The temperature sensor should be located at the outlet of the coolant from the cylinder head - under this air line.

Hello, what you have marked in the picture is the top-up sensor and the top-up air temperature sensor (2 in 1).

And as for the temperature sensor, if it is 4-pin (2 pins give a signal on the board and the other 2 give a signal to the ECM). After connecting the computer, check the engine temperature reading if it coincides with the temperature on the board.

Of course, there will be small differences because the indicator on the board is only an indicator.

Greetings.

marrmarcin wrote:

After connecting the computer, check the engine temperature reading if it coincides with the temperature on the board.

The fault is sporadic. This should be done before starting a cold engine. On the other hand, the sensor is not expensive.

The fact is, the sensor costs from 10 to 40 zlotys (they gave me such prices in a friend's store), so no cost, but if it would help, I can spend such an expense hehehe! A question for experienced colleagues, is it possible to replace yourself under the block with basic tools? Or maybe it is so positioned that we cannot do without the help of a workshop?

I think that if the computer reads the wrong ambient temperature and heats the candles as if there was a great frost, it probably also gives a larger dose of fuel for start-up, hence this blue scree may appear after firing. If it reads the right temperature, the smoke can be much lower ;-)

Do you think I'm a little right in my reasoning?

what is your revs after starting a cold engine?
This smoke can be caused by unburnt oil entering the exhaust.

Hey, after firing, the engine briefly goes to about 1100-1200 rpm, after a while the revs drop to 900 rpm. But there is something wrong anyway, because sometimes the revolutions can wave from 900 to 1100, I don't know what it is from, but that's not the topic, anyway, the undulating revolutions compared to the daily poisoning of the block's inhabitants is a piece of cake ;-)

As for crude oil getting into the exhaust, the same is what my timing meches told me that this blue smoke is probably not oil, as it clearly smells oil in it.

I tried to call him today to make an appointment to check the pressure in the cylinders, unfortunately to no avail ... Probably the boy had gone on vacation, sitting in the workshop in such heat ...

Nevertheless, I will try to put Seat on him for measurements, as soon as I find out something, I will write what and how.

Tomorrow a friend is to connect the car to the VAG, we will see if there are any mistakes and if we succeed, we will try to perform the maneuver proposed by marrmarcin.

dj.krzychoo wrote:

I think that if the computer reads the wrong ambient temperature and heats the candles as if there was a great frost, it probably also gives a larger dose of fuel for start-up, hence this blue scree may appear after firing. If it reads the right temperature, the smoke can be much lower

Bingo.

Maybe bingo, but after firing the sensor will still give the same and the smoking stops. greetings

Added after 34 [minutes]:

dj.krzychoo wrote:

replacement by yourself under the block with basic tools is an option?

Just plug in the plug for checking, on a cold engine the temperature will be the same as the ambient temperature.

piotrmarczak wrote:

Then check the pressure in the cylinders, it will explain to you whether the rings or valve seals

nodzy wrote:

If you don't measure the pressure, you won't learn anything. This is the basic research in this situation

Well, but why the fungus in this situation to measure the pressure in the cylinders? Come on, explain me!
Probably just to stretch the costs It's very good that you forgot, and I'm surprised that no one reacted to these stupid advice.

Note that one with the other that it only smokes when firing, and that when the engine is cold.

The sensor itself can be deceived so that the computer gets full temp all the time and then see / compare.

nodzy wrote:

Maybe bingo, but after firing the sensor will still give the same and the smoking stops.

Don't know how sensors work? It's time to train yourself. In this car, when the fluid temperature sensor is damaged, the controller uses the fuel temperature as a substitute value. But only after starting the engine.

k-sierra wrote:

Well, but why the fungus in this situation to measure the pressure in the cylinders

That's right, so after thinking about it, I sent a private message yesterday to the author that it probably won't do anything.

T5 wrote:

the substitute takes the fuel temperature.

Yes, but the fuel temperature will be the same.
And with such damage to the sensor, it should do this number each time it is launched, not only on a cold engine.
The candles in this car heat up longer than the indicator light is on, and at the same temperature as it is now and the candles are warm, there is no whip so that he does not fire a larger dose of fuel, he would smoke black and not white.

T5 wrote:

You don't know how sensors work

T5- Teacher? only that you explain the operation of the driver, not the sensor.

nodzy wrote:

T5 wrote:
the substitute takes the fuel temperature.
Yes, but the fuel temperature will be the same.

Why aren't you reading to the end?

T5 wrote:

In this car, when the fluid temperature sensor is damaged, the controller uses the fuel temperature as a substitute value. But only after starting the engine.

nodzy wrote:

And with such damage to the sensor, it should do this number each time it is launched, not only on a cold engine.

T5 wrote:

The fault is sporadic.

nodzy wrote:

T5- Teacher? only that you explain the operation of the driver, not the sensor.

Not. And never again.
You can easily check it, even in several ways, maybe a colleague nods will tell you how?