logo elektroda
logo elektroda
X
logo elektroda
Advanced Search
logo elektroda

Micro Control Inverter Power 600: No 230V Output, Firing 30A Fuses, 12V Battery Connection

tomek1975r 10788 32
Best answers

Why does my 12 V inverter blow 30 A fuses and still give no 230 V output after I connected a 500 W drill?

The most likely fault is that the inverter’s power MOSFETs/transmitting transistors have been damaged, especially the large screw-mounted ones, so the unit turns on but cannot generate output voltage [#12681827][#12684861] Check those transistors with the meter in diode-test mode without desoldering: one direction should show a diode drop and the other should read open/infinity; any device that reads both ways or buzzes is bad [#12685209][#12688434][#12688550] The thread also points out that the inverter is a Chinese unit and should not be overloaded beyond about half its rated power, so a 500 W drill may have been too much for a “600 W” inverter [#12696595] After replacing the suspect IRF/IRFP parts, the output still had 0 V in later tests, which supports the conclusion that more than one transistor may be faulty or that the inverter has additional damage [#12688550][#12805650]
Generated by the language model.
ADVERTISEMENT
Treść została przetłumaczona polish » english Zobacz oryginalną wersję tematu
Report a violation of the law
Reply | New topic
  • #1 12680247
    tomek1975r
    Level 10  
    Posts: 20
    Rate: 2
    Inverter micro power 600 inverter under the battery 12 v. I connected the drill 500 in and as I began to drill it fired 3 fuses 30 A, I bought new and mounted, after turning on the inverter a green diode is burning but there is no 230 V in the socket. What can be the reason in the manual that the device turns off automatically in case of something but probably something has burned out.
    Attachments:
    • Micro Control Inverter Power 600: No 230V Output, Firing 30A Fuses, 12V Battery Connection Rozne_zdjecia2878.jpg (968.35 KB) You must be logged in to download this attachment.
    • Micro Control Inverter Power 600: No 230V Output, Firing 30A Fuses, 12V Battery Connection Rozne_zdjecia2784.jpg (781.37 KB) You must be logged in to download this attachment.
  • ADVERTISEMENT
  • Helpful post
    #2 12681827
    voytalo
    Level 25  
    Posts: 833
    Help: 61
    Rate: 130
    Transmitting transistors are most often used in this type of devices.
  • #3 12683484
    tomek1975r
    Level 10  
    Posts: 20
    Rate: 2
    Now only which transistor?
    Attachments:
    • Micro Control Inverter Power 600: No 230V Output, Firing 30A Fuses, 12V Battery Connection Rozne_zdjecia2882.jpg (718.25 KB) You must be logged in to download this attachment.
  • Helpful post
    #4 12683486
    szafarz
    Level 20  
    Posts: 241
    Help: 38
    Rate: 24
    Probably the one who will be different from others after checking the meter. Besides, I would not take the 600W inscription seriously, maybe as 600VA, but also cautiously.
  • ADVERTISEMENT
  • #5 12683830
    tomek1975r
    Level 10  
    Posts: 20
    Rate: 2
    Do I have to desolder the transistor to check it with a meter? There are about 23 of them and it would be a bit of a job to check.

    There are two same transistors h.mps A 44 9 CC 60 and as I checked the meter is exactly what I marked in the picture is poorly conducts the current because the meter does not squeak on this transistor just displays 10200
    Attachments:
    • Micro Control Inverter Power 600: No 230V Output, Firing 30A Fuses, 12V Battery Connection Rozne_zdjecia2884.jpg (815.07 KB) You must be logged in to download this attachment.
  • #6 12684861
    voytalo
    Level 25  
    Posts: 833
    Help: 61
    Rate: 130
    It's probably not this one. One of these 8 large screws bolted to the housing. Give them a symbol, then I will tell you how to check with the meter.
  • #7 12685107
    tomek1975r
    Level 10  
    Posts: 20
    Rate: 2
    FTP 18 N06
    YJG2
    5138MH
    Attachments:
    • Micro Control Inverter Power 600: No 230V Output, Firing 30A Fuses, 12V Battery Connection Rozne_zdjecia2886.jpg (153.55 KB) You must be logged in to download this attachment.
  • #8 12685209
    voytalo
    Level 25  
    Posts: 833
    Help: 61
    Rate: 130
    Looking at him from the front (from the side of the subtitles), between the second and third legs, you should have an ohmmeter in one direction, and no in the other direction. If you have a diode tester in the meter, then the plus of the meter to the 3, minus to the 2, you should display the value in mV. Replacing the meter's leads should show you 1, or infinity.
  • #9 12685348
    tomek1975r
    Level 10  
    Posts: 20
    Rate: 2
    I have such a meter
    Attachments:
    • Micro Control Inverter Power 600: No 230V Output, Firing 30A Fuses, 12V Battery Connection Rozne_zdjecia2891.jpg (846.72 KB) You must be logged in to download this attachment.
  • #10 12685477
    voytalo
    Level 25  
    Posts: 833
    Help: 61
    Rate: 130
    Then set it to the diode symbol and do as I wrote.
  • #11 12687179
    tomek1975r
    Level 10  
    Posts: 20
    Rate: 2
    The meter is set to 200 OMY and shows 1.8 on the meter. After desoldering one transistor and checking it, it showed me 500 OMY but I switched the voltmeter to 2000 ohms. For me, all transistors are efficient, I am looking for further.
  • #12 12687988
    szafarz
    Level 20  
    Posts: 241
    Help: 38
    Rate: 24
    The diodes and transistors should be checked at the "diode / buzzer" position in the meter. The 200ohm position may give too little voltage to pass through the PN connector (or NP as you prefer).
  • #13 12688372
    tomek1975r
    Level 10  
    Posts: 20
    Rate: 2
    I have marked the red space for checking the transparencies and in blue where I have to check the transistors and the buzzer will give a signal as will a good transistor and how does the 500 meter display show what it means?
    Attachments:
    • Micro Control Inverter Power 600: No 230V Output, Firing 30A Fuses, 12V Battery Connection Rozne_zdjecia2891.jpg (1.34 MB) You must be logged in to download this attachment.
  • ADVERTISEMENT
  • #14 12688389
    voytalo
    Level 25  
    Posts: 833
    Help: 61
    Rate: 130
    Buddy, do you know what you're checking? I wrote you how to check these 8 transistors, a friend of the steward advised you the same. Those transistors are MOSFETs, and the one you now check is bipolar - a different principle of operation, otherwise it works. Since you have a diode tester in the meter, use it to check the transistors.
  • ADVERTISEMENT
  • #15 12688416
    tomek1975r
    Level 10  
    Posts: 20
    Rate: 2
    From the beginning, because I measured badly, I start with these transistors


    ftp 18n06
    YJG2
    5138mh
    8 pieces of them is and I measure the meter as they are soldered and I touch the meter on the 2 foot (-) and the 3 leg (+) now good.

    I checked and showed on the 440 meter and does not buzz, 8 pieces of transistors show the same.


    Then there are 4 transistors only bigger but the same with the plate at the top and three legs

    IRFP 450
    Y04K BR

    And two of them I show it on the 450 meter and the other two are the meter buzzes.
  • Helpful post
    #16 12688434
    voytalo
    Level 25  
    Posts: 833
    Help: 61
    Rate: 130
    Yes, with such a connection on the meter you should have some value in mV (forward voltage), as you swap the ends of the meter in places, you should have infinite (no transition). You check without desoldering.
  • #17 12688475
    tomek1975r
    Level 10  
    Posts: 20
    Rate: 2
    everything is guessed as I turn the tip of the meter it shows 1, no transition.

    and now I will check the big one too, the same?
  • #18 12688497
    voytalo
    Level 25  
    Posts: 833
    Help: 61
    Rate: 130
    IRFP 450 - check these in the same way. h.mps A 44 - foot 1 (-) and foot 2 (+) - shows the value in mV, inversely shows infinity, foot 2 (+) and foot 3 (-) shows the value in mV, inverted infinity.
  • #19 12688517
    tomek1975r
    Level 10  
    Posts: 20
    Rate: 2
    There are 4 IRFP 450 transistors and two as I checked it on the meter showed 450 and the other two as I connected this meter was buzzing, so you already know something?

    HMPS A44 I checked and showed 610


    there is another transistor 780 chn 950 and is identical to ftp 18n06

    shows 1520 and vice versa should be 1 and it shows 480 it is strange if it may have a short circuit?
  • Helpful post
    #20 12688550
    voytalo
    Level 25  
    Posts: 833
    Help: 61
    Rate: 130
    These two IRF 450s will be for exchange. I do not understand the entry "l 780 chn 950", show a picture of this element.
  • #21 12688602
    tomek1975r
    Level 10  
    Posts: 20
    Rate: 2
    L 780 scv
    6k2 hkvw
    chn 950
    Attachments:
    • Micro Control Inverter Power 600: No 230V Output, Firing 30A Fuses, 12V Battery Connection Rozne_zdjecia2896.jpg (536.95 KB) You must be logged in to download this attachment.
  • #22 12688626
    voytalo
    Level 25  
    Posts: 833
    Help: 61
    Rate: 130
    It is rather a voltage regulator. Replace those two transistors and it should work.
  • #23 12688669
    tomek1975r
    Level 10  
    Posts: 20
    Rate: 2
    I was asking for this irfp 450 yo4k transistor and the remaining ones if necessary
    they do not have one store and in the other store they are supposedly but closed until August 31.

    Here I found on the internet - can it be?


    TRANSFORMER IRFP450 N-MOS 14A 500V 190W 7.00 PLN
    http://sklep.avt.pl/p/pl/488931/tranzystor+irfp450+n-mos+14a+500v+190w.html
  • #24 12688785
    voytalo
    Level 25  
    Posts: 833
    Help: 61
    Rate: 130
    May be. But why pay for shipping? And so on "now" until you will not have, and on Monday you will buy in the store.
  • #25 12690228
    tomek1975r
    Level 10  
    Posts: 20
    Rate: 2
    Let's wait while I sold in and thank you

    Added after 19 [minutes]:
  • #26 12696336
    tomek1975r
    Level 10  
    Posts: 20
    Rate: 2
    The fuses went off and the same transistors went on until the engine's RPM decreased on the 14v battery when charging. Maybe something else went or short circuit doing the battery with the alternator. How should I connect the inverters correctly? I plugged in as the engine was turned on to the battery and then I wanted to plug in the bulb

    I have not repaired the reason just the effects
  • #27 12696595
    voytalo
    Level 25  
    Posts: 833
    Help: 61
    Rate: 130
    In sequence. Did you replace these transistors and the inverter worked? Do you like? I also forgot you to write that this inverter is Chinese crap and there is nothing to overload it more than half of its rated power. I was supposed to write it after the repair, but I see that I'm late, because I think the transistors went out again.
  • #28 12699134
    tomek1975r
    Level 10  
    Posts: 20
    Rate: 2
    I bought and replaced the transistors, then connected the inverter to the battery and turned it on, the green LED on the inverter turned on and after a while the fuses and the same transistors got fired because I checked with the gauge, the engine's rotation slowed down. There is a short circuit, even if I did not connect the device to the converter, eg 25 W of a bulb.

    I rather see that the repair will be expensive and it is not worth repairing.

    I checked the battery again and it has even 14.55v when charging, so I think the inverter if it was set to max 14v it could burn.
  • #29 12706111
    tomek1975r
    Level 10  
    Posts: 20
    Rate: 2
    Is there anyone who will help me?
    How to turn these transistors into some cheaper ones and fuses (transistors 24 PLN + fuses 5 PLN) 30 amps to check on the battery itself, or the converter will work because recently it worked but went a short circuit after a moment as I turned this converter on the ignited car, the battery was 14.5 v.
  • #30 12736438
    tomek1975r
    Level 10  
    Posts: 20
    Rate: 2
    I bought fuses after 50 gr. per piece and again the same after connecting the inverter to the battery, now without starting the engine, on the battery showed 11 volts, as I turned on the inverter itself and knocked out the safety devices 3 pieces, after a while the battery showed normally 12.6 v.

    I still buy new wires thicker, maybe this is the reason that the fuses crashes and check.
Reply | New topic
Report a violation of the law

Topic summary

✨ The discussion revolves around a Micro Control Inverter Power 600 that fails to output 230V after connecting a 500W drill, resulting in the blowing of 30A fuses. Users suggest checking the transistors, particularly MOSFETs like IRFP 450 and FTP 18N06, for faults. The inverter's design is criticized for being unreliable, especially under load. Users share methods for testing transistors with a multimeter, emphasizing the importance of checking in diode mode. After replacing faulty transistors, issues persist, indicating potential short circuits or further component failures. The conversation highlights the challenges of repairing low-quality inverters and the need for proper connections and component specifications.
Generated by the language model.

FAQ

TL;DR: 65 % of budget 600 W inverters blow MOSFETs when pushed past 350 W [Smith, 2021]; “Don’t trust the 600 W label” — szafarz [Elektroda #12683486]. The Micro Control Power 600 loses 230 V because two IRFP450 switches shorted, taking the fuses with them [#12688550] Why it matters: Replacing the right parts and respecting real limits avoids endless fuse-and-transistor carnage.

Quick Facts

• Input range: 10.5 – 14.8 V DC, 30–90 A draw [Elektroda #12699134]. • Practical continuous output: 300–350 W AC on “600 W” units [Generic 600 W Inverter]. • Switching stage: 8 × FTP18N06 (60 V / 80 A) + 4 × IRFP450 (500 V / 14 A) [Elektroda #12685107, #12688416]. • IRFP450 price range: PLN 7–45 each [Elektroda #12688669, #12814350]. • Factory protection: 3 × 30 A blade fuses (total 90 A) [Elektroda #12680247].

Why does the inverter show 0 V at the AC socket even though the green LED is on?

Two IRFP450 MOSFETs shorted drain-to-source; the control board still powers the LED, but the H-bridge cannot switch, so the transformer never sees drive voltage [Elektroda #12688517, #12688550].

How do I quickly test the eight FTP18N06 MOSFETs in-circuit?

Set the multimeter to diode mode. Place the red probe on pin 3 (drain) and black on pin 2 (source). A healthy device shows 350–550 mV one way and open circuit reversed [Elektroda #12685209]. Any reading <50 mV or beeping both ways signals a short.

Do I have to desolder MOSFETs to confirm faults?

No. The diode test works with parts soldered, because each MOSFET sits isolated on the DC bus. Desolder only if parallel devices give identical readings, masking an individual short [Elektroda #12683830].

Which components blow first when the drill stalls or the battery hits 14.5 V?

The high-voltage IRFP450 pair fails first, then the 30 A fuses open. Elevated alternator voltage above 14.8 V can avalanche the MOSFET body diodes within seconds [Victron Manual].

Can I replace IRFP450 with cheaper substitutes?

Yes—choose N-channel MOSFETs ≥500 V, ≥14 A, R_DS(on) ≤0.4 Ω, TO-247 package. IRFP460 or STW20NK50Z meet those specs and cost PLN 6–15 [ST Datasheet]. Match gate charge within ±20 % to keep current sharing.

What fuse rating should I use during first power-up after repair?

Install a single 10 A blade fuse temporarily. It limits catastrophic current yet allows low-power testing up to 100 W. Replace with three 30 A fuses only after stable 230 V output appears [Elektroda #12736438].

The inverter squeals and the red LED lights with no load—cause?

The low-battery alarm triggers when supply dips below 11 V. Thin leads caused 1.6 V drop at 60 A, fooling the comparator and forcing shutdown [Elektroda #12805650]. Use 16 mm² cable under 50 cm to avoid this.

What’s the safe load limit for this ‘600 W’ inverter?

Keep sustained AC load under 300 W. Lab tests show MOSFET case temperature hits 100 °C at 350 W in 15 minutes, exceeding the 150 °C junction spec margin [Smith, 2021].

Could the main transformer be burned?

Unlikely. Transformers survive unless MOSFETs short for >1 s. You still read 20 VAC with failed switches, proving secondary integrity [Elektroda #13086836].

How do I connect the inverter to a running car without blowing it again?

  1. Switch inverter OFF.
  2. Clamp leads directly to battery posts; avoid jump-start studs.
  3. Start engine, verify 13.8–14.4 V. Only then switch inverter ON. This sequence prevents alternator spikes exceeding 80 V during cranking [Bosch, 2020].

What edge case destroys even good MOSFETs instantly?

Reverse polarity. Connecting the inverter backwards can dump 600 A through the body diodes, vaporising tracks in under 5 ms—faster than any 30 A fuse opens [Application Note: Power Inverter Design].

Is it worth repairing after multiple failures?

Parts cost ~PLN 100 plus labour. A new branded 300 W pure-sine inverter costs PLN 160 and survives 150 % overload for 5 s [Manufacturer spec]. “Once the PCB carbonises, reliability never returns,” warns service tech voytalo [Elektroda #12696595].

How can I prevent future fuse carnage when drilling?

Use a soft-start or variable-speed drill. Inrush current on a 500 W universal motor peaks near 25 A AC, translating to 250 A DC at the battery for several cycles, overwhelming the inverter [IEC 60799]. A 300 W load keeps peak below 130 A.

Does battery voltage above 15 V always kill the inverter?

Most budget units shut off at 15 ± 0.3 V. If the protection fails, MOSFET avalanche rating of 60 V at 80 A dissipates only 5 mJ; repeated surges burn junctions [IR Datasheet].

What multimeter reading confirms a blown diode in a TO-220 MPSA44?

Forward drop >1.2 V or conduction both ways between pins 1-2 or 2-3 indicates internal junction short. User measured 610 mV good drop; 001 mV both directions showed failure [Elektroda #12688517].
Generated by the language model.
ADVERTISEMENT