Underfloor Heating Not Warming Up: Hertz Thermostatic Head, Capillary, Venting & 3 Room Setup

I have a problem with underfloor heating, namely it does not want to heat.
I have heating in 3 rooms, i.e. kitchen-living room (4 loops approx. 30 m2), bathroom (one loop approx. 9 m2), corridor (one loop approx. 7 m2)
I also have one ladder radiator in the bathroom and one radiator in a room with no underfloor heating.
Heating was used by a plumber who supposedly knows his job. He vented the entire system twice.
I regulate the temperature for the floor heating using the Hertz thermostatic head with a capillary.
How I started the floor heating and set the temperature to 25 degrees. the floor was not warm, the radiators were hot. After turning off the radiators, nothing has changed, i.e. the floor is still cold.
I set the maximum temperature on the head, i.e. over 50 degrees and the floor heating started, the temperature increased in the living room indicated about 25 degrees in the bathroom, almost 28 degrees. I changed the thermostat to 30 degrees and the temperature on the floor heating dropped to 21 degrees.
The input collector is warm at 30 degrees Celsius, but the pipes further away from the collector are cooler, and the return collector is completely cold. I noticed that when the head was set to the maximum, the return was warm.
Which may be the reason why the floor heating does not work at low temperature. It seems to me that the floor heating should be heating at the same time. about 30-35st.
Pictures of my boiler room may help.
Best regards and thank you for the advice.

You need a floor pump on the manifold after the control valve.
I do not know what kind of fashion it is to mount the splitter to the floor heating system lower than the loops. How is it supposed to vent?

You need to stick something like this:

See also this topic: Link

This floor does not heat up because the capillary valve does not release water that is more than set at 30 degrees C. You would have to first supply it with water at a steady temperature, ie through a mixer.
You need to assemble such a system as the piracik color shows in the picture, otherwise it will not work.
Such a valve with a cap is assumed to: to regulate the temperature of the room or the floor itself. The capillary is then on the wall or in the floor between the loop pipes.
As you have, when the valve flushes a little water with a temperature higher than the set temperature to the manifold, the capillary will close the valve until this small amount of water in the manifold cools down to the set temperature. Then it runs a little water again and the valve closes.
It is a "pulsation power" of 200 grams of water per minute.
Before the first dose of water reaches the end of the loop, it will probably be about 3 days.

thank you for the quick replies

saskia I understand what you wrote, and if I put the "sensor" of the capillary on the return then the head would be open until the return of the water with the desired temperature.
if you can not move the capillary sensor, I have to install a bypass pump

It is not about the pump itself, but about the mixing and pumping set. The mixer mixes the hot supply water with the cool water from the floor return which the pump feeds to the distributor.
This capillary valve is not needed there. You can use it for a heater-radiator.
If you switch the capiare to return, you will have a high temperature on the supply, i.e. the temperature given by the boiler, and this may damage the floor pipes.
The mixer acts as a thermostatic mixer for the shower cabin, you set the temperature on it and hot water flows from the showerhead so that you do not burn yourself.
Podogowka also needs such a constant temperature and protection against "burns" - deformation of the tubes and scalding in the feet.

It is the plumber who did the flooring for me
and I asked him if this set would work well, he swore that everything would happen, that the capillary would be good to control the temperature, i.e. a valve. Well, it remains to install the mixing pump set. In that case, I also have to install the three-way valve, is it enough to use the system presented in the photo by piracik?

Just install the pump and the bypass. The rest is ok. The valve is good.
Only after installing the pump the loops will work the other way and you will either have to transfer the capillary to the lower beam or change the supply and return from the boiler.

Piracik, how well do I understand, how do I install the bypass and the pump, I have to put a thermostatic valve with a capillary on the return (or change the water connection to the manifold beam) ?? how so how will it work ??
I believed that the capillary controls the valve, i.e. it opens the valve when the water is cooler and closes when the water reaches the desired temperature.

I understand that we control the water return temperature from the floor heating ?? if it is too high, it circulates in loops until it "cools down" after reaching a temperature lower than the set temperature on the thermostat, the thermostat opens and then cool water flows out and hot water flows from the furnace through the inlet. How is it supposed to work, is it possible to control hot water, or should I only control the temperature with a 4-way valve ??

I hope I wrote it quite clearly.

Are you familiar with the topic I referred you to?
The pump forces the water through the loops, if the capillary determines that the temperature of the water flowing into the loops is too cool, it will slightly open the valve and release some hot water from the boiler to the floor, if the temperature reaches the set value, it will close the valve again, cutting off the water from the boiler, and the pump will it will still pump only through loops. This is in a nutshell and the easiest way.
If you install a pump, the beam feeding the loops will be the beam to which the return to the boiler will be connected. Again, I refer to the pictures attached in the topic from the above-mentioned LINK.
So if you mount a pump, you have two options:
1. Swap the power supply from the boiler back, leaving the valve on the flow. That is, the power supply on the lower beam, return on the upper beam, the capillary on the upper one, the pump moves from the lower beam to the upper one.
2. If the loops can work in the other direction than at present, you install the pump, the upper beam is the return beam, the lower beam is the supply beam, the capillary is transferred to the lower beam, the valve remains on the boiler supply, the pump presses from the upper beam to the lower beam.

I have read the link provided and I agree to your suggestion, I hope this will solve the problem.

On one of the posts from the link (08/26/2013 at 00.01) you wrote: "I forgot to add that in the photo attached by me, the capillary of the head is mounted incorrectly. It should be on the upper beam." The capillary should be on the return or at the inlet ??
To clarify, because I am not an expert on the capillary, it is a brass / copper "sensor" attached with straps.

I do not want to change the power supply from the boiler because I would also have to change the power supply on the radiators. So I will only convert the collector supply, i.e. the bottom will be the supply and the upper beam will be back.

The capillary should control the temperature and power supply, but on which pipe the valve is, it doesn't matter.
Do not redo anything until you buy the rest of the elements, because you are not sure what construction you will buy.

First, install the pump so that it pumps from the upper beam to the lower beam and place the head capillary on the lower beam. Yes, it is a copper sensor attached to the wristbands.

Piracik of these more important elements I have to buy a pump now (OHI 25-60 circulation pump should be sufficient ??,) 2 tees for the upper and lower beam to connect the pump and bypass and a check valve in front of the pump.

A non-return valve is hardly needed.
The bypass must be able to screw the flow on it.
I think it will be hard to fit in this cabinet without moving the boiler pipes.
You can install the bypass on the left side first. You will gain a little space for the pump.

Can a bypass be installed on the other side? it does not bother that it will be behind the divider?
I will remove this cabinet (it was a waste of money),
I think to move the entire manifold slightly to the left and place the pump and, as you write on the left, place the bypass first.
I can screw the bypass with elbows.

You can even use the sockets to drain the water.

I did the piracik as you said, the floor heating is already working. Thank you so much for help

It's a pity that you haven't found the time to click.

greetings

But I thank you for the hints you gave because I found out a lot. I am in the phase of planning the entire boiler room and thanks to people like you it is easier ... Regards

Hello
1 Loop must not exceed a maximum of 120 MB
2 Who installed this manifold for radiators
3 The manifold for underfloor heating must have rotameters (flow meter)
4 For the manifold you need a pump with a 3d thermostatic valve

For my expert eye, your installation cannot regulate the water flow through individual loops
The distributor should be moved to the ground floor, it is best to break it open and fit the cabinet into the wall
when the water is boiled for the first time, the system will air itself again when topping up etc. if the manifold stays in this way
Do you have any photos of pipes laid out in the rooms because I would love to see what it looks like and also this specialist because I want to laugh as you can so ... installation
the best is RTL for the entire manifold.
One more question, did this bastard install this stove for you, if so, show the photos on the back of the stove because it may turn out that you have a time bomb

To all users who have participated in the discussion so far
do you have any idea about installations?