Underfloor Heating in 40m2 Flat: Setting & Troubleshooting Tips (Valves, Models, Brands)

I warmly welcome.

I am renting a flat with underfloor heating and it will be my first winter so I would like it to be all as due.

I put a bake on the test to check that everything works and I have the impression that the flooring can not do it. The flat is 40m2, so it is not a large heating surface, and as for my eye after about 10 hours should already feel a slight warmth.

I am completely green in the subject. I called the owner and told me that the previous tenants were mixing something at the installation and will not tell me what to do today.
The installation is from what I noticed 2 valves at which you can turn something (I marked on the pictures
).
Do you need to set them properly to heat up as due?
I will add the bake today is from 8:00

I will be very grateful for the hints

What kind of serpents was there? The feed pipe from the boiler to the distributor is what? I can see that someone has become alienated by pions. There is the floor mixer itself because the pipes are still going somewhere in the wall. What boiler - gas? No thermostat with capillary on the valve.

Looking at the colors of the valves, the power is on the bottom strip and on the upper back. The temperature at the bottom and the top is the same 23C, so nothing is flying there. I suggest unscrewing the upper valve with white plastic mushroom on the left. Maybe something will move. I have not seen the artist yet so that the power supply of the floor heating manifold was connected with a hose to the battery

It's not about the colors of the valves. The floor heating power supply is to be at the bottom but the distributor does not supply anymore. Should go to the top beam. That's why I asked for the boiler feed.

gersik wrote:

There is the floor mixer itself because the pipes are still going somewhere in the wall. What boiler - gas?

Beretta dual-purpose boiler.

When it comes to power, after hot water, the water has direction as the arrows are flying.The vertical line is the hot water cut, i.e. it is possible that the valve was said to be used by the arbiter The referee needs to be unscrewed.



Added after 16 [minutes]:

Arbiter wrote:

this valve with a white plastic mushroom on the left. Maybe something will move

when it comes to this valve, white plasters are cracked and nothing can be done with it.

If it's like you drew it, you should still have a thermostat. Do it this way. gently open the plastic knob and regulate the flow with the bypass valve (the one that you marked on the top bar) Remember that the temperature on the bottom bar is not higher than 40 ° C. If there are no radiators (you have not written) and the boiler is condensing, you do not need this type of lowering heating water temperature.
At this point, you should have such a thermostat:
https://obrazki.elektroda.pl/5222776900_1395689194.jpg

Added after 1 [minutes]:

See if there is any air on these manual vents.

domel, if the plastic is cracked it does not matter - because by default, the valve is opened by unscrewing it. However, something may have been suspended, but you should try to squeeze this pip. Under normal conditions, this pip is controlled by a thermostat, or plastic is pressed in). If the button is knocked up, the valve is open to the max. Maybe I can not come back

The valve which at the bottom you have marked with a square is probably blinded with a nut and after unscrewing it you get to the gusset. but I do not think anyone turned it down

gersik wrote:

If it's like you drew it, you should still have a thermostat.

thermostat or this valve with a white plastic, which is cracked? because there is nothing else here.

gersik wrote:

if there are no radiators (you have not written)

the radiator is one in the bathroom, I forgot to write.

gersik wrote:

See if there is any air on these manual vents.

checked - vented

This is a valve. The thermostat is to be screwed into it instead of the cap.

Added after 45 [seconds]:

I showed in the picture.

gersik wrote:

This is a valve. The thermostat is to be screwed into it instead of the cap.

there is no thermostat. The cap is cracked so the valve comes out of it being open to the max and the hot water stops at the place where I marked the yellow thick line in the picture.



what else I noticed that when the pump is turned off, the temperature at the top increases, but when it is switched on, it drops, but nothing happens at the bottom. Strange things happen here: /

Added after 4 [minutes]:

Arbiter wrote:

The valve which at the bottom you have marked with a square is probably blinded with a nut and after unscrewing it you get to the gusset. but I do not think anyone turned it down

it's closed

is the hood closed, but not the valve? Well, if the valve is curled, there is no way to circulate the heat and not to heat it.

Arbiter wrote:

is the hood closed, but not the valve? Well, if the valve is curled, there is no way to circulate the heat and not to heat it.

my mistake, I'm sorry. The one at the bottom, however, the one that I marked on the square with the red square turned out.

And do you have open green caps on the manifold?

gersik wrote:

And do you have open green caps on the manifold?

so everything and at the top and bottom is utwarte

That this mushroom valve is warm at all?
Did you check whether the pump is working and is it bled? (unscrew the cap on the left side of the pump from the forehead and check that water flows out and the rotor is spinning.
Unscrew the breathers on the knees on the right side of the beams.
Move the stem from the thermostatic valve violently up and down - perhaps the mushroom has stuck together when the cap has been screwed for a long time.
In addition, these snakes have too small cross-sections for such purposes. Necessarily to be replaced with larger diameters.

andrzej lukaszewicz wrote:

That this mushroom valve is warm at all?

it's so warm. I indicated the yellow line where heat water ends (that is before the pump).

andrzej lukaszewicz wrote:

Did you check whether the pump is working and is it bled? (unscrew the cap on the left side of the pump from the forehead and check that water flows out and the rotor is spinning.
Unscrew the breathers on the knees on the right side of the beams.

I checked the pump and vent on the right (everything is ok - water flows out)

andrzej lukaszewicz wrote:

Move the stem from the thermostatic valve violently up and down - perhaps the mushroom has stuck together when the cap has been screwed for a long time.

everything works, even today I unscrewed this valve and checked if something is not there - everything is ok

andrzej lukaszewicz wrote:

In addition, these snakes have too small cross-sections for such purposes. Necessarily to be replaced with larger diameters.

still, a season ago, apparently, everything worked so the tales gave advice. I do not know what to do: /

Hello
I had a similar problem with such a manually controlled valve.
If it was too much closed (a very small flow set), it became clogged with particles of filings and rust circulating in the system. It helps by repeatedly fast and energetically pressing the valve plug (this protruding rod from the valve).
This applies to both valves. The mixing pump serves only to protect against excessive heat in underfloor heating. I suggest you do not turn it on first.
Besides, if you have not dealt with underfloor heating, I recommend patience. My floor-standing in the kitchen in bathrooms (about 12m2 + 2x9m2) heats up about 10 hours.
I suggest you do not turn on the pump, leave the supply valve open, and put the RTL valve on the return valve to the floor heating (price around PLN 100) and you can sleep well.

jamrjan wrote:

The mixing pump serves only to protect against excessive heat in underfloor heating

To protect against too high liquid temperature in the underfloor heating circuit, the RTL valve is used. The pump only gives mixed liquid to the circuit.

RTL valve is mounted on the output not on the input - there is no such valve in the presented system.

The layout of colleague domel.spi is quite strange, there is a restriction valve on the input, the pump mixes the liquid in the system and the other valve is on the output.

To start the system quickly at full power, you must open both valves and turn off the mixing pump. if the general circulation is forced then it will start to heat. Provided that the inlet and outlet valves are unobstructed. Unfortunately, as in nature, everything uses the principle of "the least resistance line" - it may turn out that the flow will be through the pump because there is the smallest flow resistance. Unfortunately, the "installer" did not insert the check valve into the pump circulation.
I am not an installer, but I would not come up with a solution like in the picture.
Even this system has a chance to work properly - the condition of replacing the valve installed on the return to the RTL valve, which will introduce a simple temperature regulation, and the mixing pump will set the flow evenly.

jamrjan wrote:

there is no such valve in the presented system.

And this is at the upper beam on the left is "h ..."? It is a liquid flow control valve and that there is no thermostatic head with a capillary on it is no longer our brożka.
"domel" But you rent a place. Suspend the rental fee until the defect is corrected.