The heaters do not heat up. The heat seems to be trapped in the furnace.

Hello, I have a problem with heating the entire apartment, I am a complete layman in this topic. I have an apartment with an area of 69m2, an 8KW stove, and a Water Force 25-40-180C circulating pump.
The problem is that the radiators in the last two rooms are almost cold, and an even bigger problem is that the heat seems to stay on the stove, and then the temperature on the stove reaches up to 95 degrees and the radiators are almost cold, I don't know what is the reason for this.
This state lasts about 2 hours, after which something unblocked and the temperature drops to 50 degrees within 5 minutes.
I am asking for advice on what can be done with this problem.

Hello

Try to bleed the radiators, choke the flow on the radiators that
they keep you warm.

well, I tried to do that but nothing helps, the radiators in the last 2 rooms heat up very poorly, and when it burns up in the boiler, the temperature rises very quickly to even 95 degrees, and the radiators are still cold. Please help

check the buddy if the pump is really spinning, because maybe it is blocked

The pump works, when the radiators are deaerated, I run out of dirty water with rust.

The matter is simple, you have air in circulation, vent until it works. One by one from bottom to top. Eventually you will hear a hiss and air escaping ...

OK, I'll be venting, I hope it works. Thank you for your help

check the CO filter by the way

I vented, the radiators are still cold and the temperature on the stove is high, I am very surprised because there is very little coal or wood in the sweat and the stove shows 80-95 degrees and the radiators are all cold.

Added after 1 [minutes]:

I am very surprised because there is very little coal or wood in the stove and the stove shows 80-95 degrees and the heaters are all cold. I'm sorry but I made a mistake above.

I do not know if you have had this problem for a long time, if it is from the beginning of the installation, or if you have not made any modifications.
I assume that you have thermostatic valves installed in front of the radiators. It may turn out that the installation contractor installed valves with pre-setting and either choked the valve too much or it was originally set so, and even opening the thermostat head does not allow too much water to flow to the radiator.
Just for information: the initial setting of the valve is to adjust the power of the radiator to the room (or to ensure an appropriate division between rooms) and the thermostatic head is to ensure thermal comfort, or in other words, to ensure the set temperature for a specific room, regardless of the temperature of the supply water.
Check the valve type and look for information on the net. I have such valves in an apartment in a block of flats and before I got there, I spent two winters with a cold radiator in the bathroom because I didn't think to check it.

If you remove the thermostat head from the valve, there should be numbers or an additional ring around the needle sticking out of the valve. If there are any (or notched lines) it may mean that it is in the initial setting. It will be most throttled when it is set to 1, fully open when it is e.g. on N (for Danfoss valves). In most cases, to change its setting, you need a special key, but you can often try to change it without it.

Hello, unfortunately I do not have thermostatic valves installed. I vented the radiators and the air comes down, you can hear a hiss, but it does not give much when the boiler fires, then after some time the temperature rises to 95 degrees and the water starts to boil for me, I have no idea why, although there is very little wood or coal in the boiler, it and this is how the water boils, and at this time, when the temperature in the boiler is so high, the radiators can not heat up at all in the toilet and in the last two rooms. the radiators are still as cold as they are cold, only after some time they become lukewarm or warm without any revelations, and the water in the installation can boil even 3-4 times a day.

Buddy, answer the basic questions:
- has the installation been built recently and is it its first heating season?
- whether the problem appeared suddenly, and previously, without any changes in the system, everything was OK

It turns out that the pump circulates the water only in the furnace . Do you have any bypass? Maybe a check valve?
You should have a check valve in front of the pump to prevent water from flowing back into the boiler.
Pump 1, 3-phase? Did you change the pump?
If single-phase - important mounting direction, with 3-phase additionally the phase sequence.

Sorry for the mistake, check valve after pump, not before.

Added after 7 [minutes]:

Maybe to clarify the situation you will attach some photos of the stove installation?

And there is water in the installation? A friend mentioned something about the rusty dirty water. It seems the water in the circuit is not circulating, what type of installation do you have?

this is a new installation, all heating is new, because I live in a tenement house, so there is water in the installation, I will try to insert photos in a moment.

zybie wrote:

check if the pump is really spinning, because it may be blocked

canon314 wrote:

The pump works, when the radiators are deaerated, I run out of dirty water with rust.

Actually, you should check it out more closely. It may turn out that the pump actually does not pump. The fact that you are spraying water with rust from your radiators is not enough, because in the system after "tapping" the water you have a pressure higher than the atmospheric pressure and hence it is obvious that the water will leak through the radiator.
The pump, on the other hand, can work but not forcing, e.g. the impeller is twisted. The motor may spin, but the rotor will stop. I do not know this pump, but since you have 25-40 in the designation, the Grundfos equivalent has a lifting height of 4 meters, so water in the installation up to 4m should "flicker".
The fact that eventually "something will move" is normal even in a system without a circulation pump.

Added after 2 [minutes]:

The stove is on the same level as the installation? Is it in the basement? The flat where? Maybe the level difference is more than 4 meters?

https://obrazki.elektroda.pl/4979707800_1291412285.jpg
https://obrazki.elektroda.pl/7019911000_1291412288.jpg
https://obrazki.elektroda.pl/3358849900_1291412290.jpg
https://obrazki.elektroda.pl/6003525400_1291412293.jpg
these are photos.

Added after 3 [minutes]:

I have a stove in an apartment on the 2nd floor, which is on the same level as the radiators.

Added after 45 [seconds]:

from the stove to the last radiator, the horizontal is approximately 14 meters.

Buddy, draw a diagram of the installation with the exact location of the boiler, expansion vessel, pump and radiators. Include the chapter type (top, bottom) in the drawing. Post as many photos as possible (video) so that you can form an opinion about the type of installation and possible construction errors. In this - it seems very simple installation, you can make a lot of mistakes that will result in similar troubles.
We are waiting for detailed information.

In fact, it looks like if you have 95 on the stove and the radiators are cold, the pump is blocking the flow rather than pumping. Maybe you have a reverse-mounted check valve behind the pump. Since this is a new installation, maybe no one has checked it thoroughly during the first run. I've had something like this before. A large installation company remodeled my boiler rooms and in one of the circuits put a check valve in the opposite direction. I found out only after the heating season started.

So meatball. There is no valve in the straight section of the installation. Bypass pump No check valve, orifice at the outlet to the receivers. Effect: the pump circulates the water, but for the most part around it.

maybe it would help if I would record a short film?

First, you should put the valve in the place indicated by the arrow. When the pump is in operation, it should be closed. In the absence of power to the pump, you open it and rely on gravity.

Added after 2 [minutes]:

Apart from that, the pump should be installed in the place of the arrow and the bypass should be fitted with a pressure gauge.

Added after 4 [minutes]:



And this is what it looks like in a professional boiler room.

Added after 1 [minutes]:

The brass piece above the pump above the tee is the check valve

Oh, and if I move the pump to the place indicated by the arrow, will it have an effect?

Thanks to the manometer, you can check if the pump is actually working. You close the lower bypass valve and open the upper one and you have pressure downstream of the pump, setting the valves in the opposite way you have pressure on the pump supply. When the pump is working properly, the pressure above the pump will be higher than the supply pressure.

Added after 2 [minutes]:

canon314 wrote:

Oh, and if I move the pump to the place indicated by the arrow, will it have an effect?

Yes, because you will be able to cut off the bypass and force the water to flow through the radiators. This will prevent water from returning to the boiler before it reaches the radiators, which is likely to be the case at this time, and if the pump is installed in the bypass, the efficiency of the pump is lost.

Oh, now I understand

Note that in your case for the pump it makes no difference where it gets the water from, from the boiler or from the section indicated by the arrow. Water drawn in "is sucked in from the section after the pump, which gives us a short circulation around it

The "perimeter" circuit should look like this (installation made by me and operating for 3 years):

As I wrote, I do not know your pump type, but the electrical connection suggests that it was installed the other way around. Note that in my photo the connection of the cable is from the bottom, but it is a Grundfos pump and it is very similar: 25-40. If it is mounted upside down, it means that the water is CERTAINLY circulating only around the pump.

There is an arrow on the pump and the pump is attached with an up arrow.

kreslarz wrote:

The "perimeter" circuit should look like this (installation made by me and operating for 3 years):

Isn't that red element sometimes a check valve?

Added after 34 [seconds]:

canon314 wrote:

There is an arrow on the pump and the pump is attached with an up arrow.

So ok with the direction