Toyota Corolla D5Z-H - I am looking for a schematic for Eberspacher HYDRONIC D5Z

According to the announcement, I am throwing in my proven scheme, I will post some photos tomorrow.

Thank you very much,
And could you add any promised photos?

At least water pumps ...
Greetings,
Kamil

In the attachments a few photos.

To zypher. How do you progress in conversion?

I am waiting for the original connectors and box. How well it will go on the weekend I will test ...
By the way, I will ask - where did you connect the blower (ie where is the cable access convenient)?
Greetings,
Kamil

The blower I connected just below the ankle of the blower motor under the passenger compartment.

How far are your work advanced?

I have 100% parts, diagram, access to the garage and time on holidays.
I see several potential problems:
1. The installation of the pump will be a massacre (I removed the air filter and saw that the fuel pump will also need to be removed): /
2. I do not know how to pull the cables through the bulkhead (there is good access through the storage in the cabin, but from the other side I do not know how to get)
3. The blower has 3 wires: two power supply +/- and third thin - I did not find what (I assume that it will not bother you)
Greetings,
Kamil

1- with a water pump is just 15 min.
2-use a rigid plastic hose or rod
You have 2 wires in front of the blower motor itself.
Not everything as terrible as it looks
Merry Christmas

I have a 2.0 engine and comparing the pictures is a bit tighter.
There are 3 wires

I will go somewhere today, but I can start tomorrow ...
Merry Christmas!

I managed to run the stove, but not yet 100%.

I have two basic problems:

1. I wanted to use the ignition signal (+15, which is in the original plug from the stove) to control the relay that cuts the electric water pump. Unfortunately, connecting the relay results in a "CHARGING PROBLEM" error
I am currently switching everything off before switching on the ignition.
Are there any electronically controlled relays that will not lower the voltage?

2. I could not connect the blower
The blower has two thick front (blue mark + and black and white -) and a thin red wire, on which the voltage changes in correlation with the blower speed (+ 5V - fan off, + 4.2VI gear, ..., + 1V - maximum speed).
Today I will try to more accurately measure the voltage on the power wires.

Thank you in advance for your help.
Kamil

I managed to start the blower:
https://www.elektroda.pl/rtvforum/topic3431536.html#17083980

Hello, in your Corolla 1.4 D4D 2005. I have a stove. I took out, cleaned and exchanged a few gaskets. Can someone write exactly what cables I need to connect to start the stove? I need to make sure that the problem lies in the controller, and maybe something else, such as a fuel pump.

In connection with the question about connecting and checking D5Z-H "on the table", I can suggest from what I remember (I've done it once successfully).

You need to build a water heating and fuel supply, exhaust and control system.
1. I built the heating circuit from a liquid container, a piece of tube hose, etc.
The tank must be above the heater.
- If you want the heater to work longer, it must be a small pump in circulation. Gravitational flow is too small and the heater will shut down from overheating after reaching the critical indoor temperature.
2. I built the fuel supply system from the medicine bottle as a fuel tank, the original pump (buzzer) removed from the car and hoses.
3, Exhaust system - elbow and pipe piece 3/4 "
4. Control system
You will need: 12V battery, two switches (one to simulate the operation of the motor, the other to turn on / off the heater work) Wires, strips, I recommend building on a car fuse to avoid melting the wires in the event of a short circuit.

Connection:
- Cables in the D5Z-H plug, side view
1- (left-top) / brown-thick .................. Weight
2-green ............................................... ... Output + 12V fuel pump control
3. The blue-.............................................. Input + 12V from the switch in the cabin
4-white-blue ......................................... diagnosis JE (line - K)
5- (bottom-left) -redged thick ................... Power supply + 12V after fuse
6-red black ..................................... Mass output to the pump (as I recall, this pump has a solid mass)
7-blue-yellow ....................................... ISO diagnosis
8-yellow ............................................... ......... D + z alternatora / We give + 12V - simulation of engine operation

We combine everything in accordance with art (just plug in pins 1, 2, 3, 5, 8)

Startup:
1. We give a + 12V simulation of the engine operation
2. We give + 12V simulation of switching on the cabin
3. After a while, it should turn on the fan for a few seconds - Blowing the combustion chamber.
4. A few seconds of silence - at that time, the glow plug should be heated.
5. The fan is switched on and the fuel pump starts to tick
6. The ignition should start and the "jet engine" sound intensifies - Turns.

I join a few photos and have fun

Sinus, thank you, very helpful manual and not only for me Fuel can be reached by gravity, do you have to press, for example, with a syringe?
If the heater starts, is it a sign that the entire combustion system is working? And when we run it, we bypass the driver completely?

I answer.
1. The fuel will be sucked in by the pump (It is a suction pump based on the electromagnet.) The tube from the pump inlet should be put in the bottle)
2. The car controller does not take part in the heater operation, it does not communicate with it (at 100% in Corolla E12). Pins 4 and 7 are used for diagnosis by the service. To make it more fun, these pins are not led to the OBDII connector in the above mentioned Corolla and to diagnose the fault with the computer, the heater must be removed. When I got out of the room, I took all the signals to a convenient place.
The controller in the heater controls the entire heating process and protections.

In that case, everything is clear. I hope that during the weekend I will have a moment to check the stove.

Sinus, only today I had time to connect the heater and check. Unfortunately, there were no signs of operation after connecting. If the heater does not react, then in this case the driver is definitely jammed?

Gentlemen, I have such a patient on the table, as in the subject. Crashes eeprom error and something with the blower motor, diagnosis by Edith program on a k-line. After dismantling, it turned out that the controller bathed in glycol due to leakage of one connector. All sensors are functional, the engine is functional, the stick has about 1 Ohm, so I suspect that it is also functional. The driver's sealing compound resembles jelly, so it can be easily picked out. Does anyone have any eeprom feeds from such a driver? Man. Year probably 2007.

Could someone have a look at this batch from my driver?

zwolmar wrote:

I join and ask for a diagram
Thank you in advance.
Or maybe someone will be public?

Did you manage to get a diagram that you could share please? Mark

>>18449718
Hello,
I have the same problem, it blew up my EEPROM. Did you manage to solve this problem somehow?