Hi,
Recently, I decided to bring an auxiliary heater back to life in my car (Opel Omega, 2.0 DTI, 2000, Hydronic D3WZ No. 25 2008). The booster heater has never worked before. After unscrewing the driver, it turned out that the candle needs to be replaced. All other components were operational - the fan was spinning, the pump was feeding fuel, the sensors (at 0 degrees Celsius) had parameters corresponding to the tabular values.
After putting everything together, the additional heater was still silent (I connected it with power, ground, alternator excitation signal, air conditioning signal and a pump). I read that the controller locks up after 10 unsuccessful attempts - that is, it probably blocked many years ago when the candle burned. Unfortunately, disconnecting the power supply around the clock did not unlock the controller.
I drove to the service in Krakow, which deals with Webasto / Eberami - unfortunately, after connecting, there was no communication between the stove and the modular clock (-: - all the time on the display). The man from the website suggested damage to the driver. Later, on the electrode I found the document "hydronic BD345WSC SS.pdf", in which I read how the procedure for unlocking and diagnosing this controller should look like.
What you did from the website looked "a little different", including the fact that the watch was different than those mentioned in this document (a modular clock or a clock tester). As far as I could see, after connecting to the diag line, he pressed the "D" button but it was the middle button, not the first button on the left as in the test clock.
In general, I have doubts if the man from the site tried to connect well (and if he had the right equipment for it), especially since I suspect blocking the driver. In connection with the above, I have a few questions.
I think it's good to have a structured set of information about the Eberspacher D3WZ driver itself:
1. One of the documents that describe Eber's diagnostics says that errors 015 and 050 - and therefore blockage - do not apply to the D3WZ additional heater.
(I found a total of three similar instructions - Polish, English and German, this is the English document "Eberspacher_D3WZ_Hydronic_heater_workshop_manual.pdf", in the other two error numbers 015 and 050 are also marked with an asterisk, but there is no explanation of what this asterisk means). Is it true? Is D3WZ really not "blocking"? This would explain why in many cars it is enough to disconnect the power to the stove for a while - just to give it a chance to reset. Without it, he has the power connected all the time and remembers the faulty condition.
2. However, if the physical controller lock occurs in D3WZ - how does it manifest? My Eber is silent, nothing clicks, does not whistle, etc. After connecting the power supply, it takes about 50 mA. The controller, after unplugging the internal plug and connecting the power supply, outputs +12 V on the fan pins of the internal plug (13 and 14) and consumes 0.5 mA. Connecting the fan and connecting the power supply means that +12 V on the fan pins does not appear anymore - to my taste it looks like a typical self test. Hence I suppose my driver is not dead.
One more observation: when I connect the + 12V power line to the controller, + 12V also appears on the diag line, but if I connect the power supply and ground - the Diag line is pulled to ground. This would indicate that some basic control of this line takes place on the controller side. What does communication look like at all? Should the controller transmit something with the power connected,or maybe the waveform will be visible only after connecting the modular clock (which will probably be the master in this communication)?
3. What can you do with the driver when it is locked? Is it possible to read errors on it (eg with the "D" button as you tried on the website)? Or maybe you need to perform the unlocking procedure first and then you will be able to read the errors? In fact, no instructions describe how the blockage of the controller manifests itself, except that the stove does not work.
4. How can you 100% confirm that the driver is damaged (not blocked)? I read in a thread that someone was successful after a few attempts to unlock the unlocking procedure ... Are there any steps - further actions, current measurements, pin states, e.g. measured with an oscilloscope, etc., that allow you to confirm 100% that the controller is damaged? It would be worth confirming this in some way, before we start the time-consuming digging out the driver from the housing and from this jelly ...
5. Can the controller without accessories (sensors, candle, fan, pump - i.e. with the internal plug disconnected) be diagnosed / unlocked? Or maybe you need a complete stove? Of course, the diagnostics will show errors related to the lack of individual components, but unlocking could be done ..
6. Is it enough to connect only three lines for diagnostics / unlocking (power, ground and diag [blue and white])? Or maybe you also need an additional excitation signal and / or climatronics? (When I suggested on the website that maybe you need to unplug the stove from the car, because maybe something else is blocking the diag line, you said that it did not make sense, because all the other lines will also have to be dragged (pump, excitation, climatronics signal) ..
7. Is there anything more than cold February happening in the damaged driver? Are there any standard controller failures caused by many years of stagnation? In the lower part, some pins of the internal plug are a bit tarnished (those from temperature sensors - I treated them with "S-Contact"), but nothing else. The wires are intact and healthy, the jelly is not burned out. As far as I read the forums, the most common damage (apart from cold solders) is the detachment of an element while cleaning the driver from jelly ... In one thread someone had a burned path from the candle - but this is probably not my case.
8. Referring to my case, with a little theorizing:
The candle was burnt, so once the stove worked (probably from 8 years ago or earlier). After burning the candle, the driver blocked after 10 unsuccessful attempts. Later, for 8 consecutive years, the power supply was still on, but it was blocked all the time due to a candle burning. Could the driver be damaged in this situation? In my opinion, not really ... At most those cold February, tarnished connections (because the inside of the furnace is not hermetic).
Well, unless my driver was damaged in such a way that it did not cut off the power supply to the candle, causing it to burn ... That would be an option ..
Or maybe there is some common cause of driver damage? If so - where to look for it (a transistor? A diode?)?
9. I saw many threads about D3WZ - many photos of disassembled stoves and their drivers. I noticed that they often differ in their internal plugs - in some they are 10-pin rectangular in shape, in others 14-pin oval shaped (like in mine). Interestingly, the outputs of these oval plugs correspondthe conclusions described in the drivers from D5WS - are these drivers replaceable? Is there a list of D3WZ versions somewhere with the differences between their versions? Maybe, since the outputs are the same as in D5WS, then like D5WS - the driver may lock up?
10. I saw on OLX that you can buy a modular clock for less than PLN 100.
10.a) Is there a list of clock numbers with their parameters somewhere? I saw that they definitely differ in: supply voltage (12V / 24V), use in wet and dry heaters (which is equivalent to the presence or absence of a potentiometer) and the language version. So far I found such a list:
22 1000 30 38 00 - Air Heater, EN, with potentiometer, 12 or 24V
22 1000 30 40 00 - Air Heater, DE, with potentiometer, 12 or 24V
22 1000 30 34 00 - Water Heater, EN, without potentiometer, 12 or 24V
22 1000 30 36 00 - Water Heater, DE, without potentiometer, 12 or 24V
I also saw (I will try to complete if I get more data):
22 1000 30 44 00 -? ? without potentiometer, 12V
22 1000 30 35 00 -? ? without a potentiometer,? V (it could have been an error in the number because I have not found such a marking anywhere)
25 1483 73 00 00 -? ? without potentiometer, looks like some older type
I am enclosing two documents that I have not seen before on our forum, regarding the operation and connection of modular clocks.
10.b) Can any clock be used to diagnose and unlock the controller? Or maybe it has to be dedicated to wet heating if we want to operate the D3WZ?
10.c) Will only the clock with the Eberspacher logo work? Can the Webasto clock also diagnose / unlock the driver? They look the same, they even have the same connection on the back and differ only in the logo on the front panel ...
I hope that my topic will start a series of tips and tricks on how to diagnose and repair additional heaters drivers.
Greetings!
Recently, I decided to bring an auxiliary heater back to life in my car (Opel Omega, 2.0 DTI, 2000, Hydronic D3WZ No. 25 2008). The booster heater has never worked before. After unscrewing the driver, it turned out that the candle needs to be replaced. All other components were operational - the fan was spinning, the pump was feeding fuel, the sensors (at 0 degrees Celsius) had parameters corresponding to the tabular values.
After putting everything together, the additional heater was still silent (I connected it with power, ground, alternator excitation signal, air conditioning signal and a pump). I read that the controller locks up after 10 unsuccessful attempts - that is, it probably blocked many years ago when the candle burned. Unfortunately, disconnecting the power supply around the clock did not unlock the controller.
I drove to the service in Krakow, which deals with Webasto / Eberami - unfortunately, after connecting, there was no communication between the stove and the modular clock (-: - all the time on the display). The man from the website suggested damage to the driver. Later, on the electrode I found the document "hydronic BD345WSC SS.pdf", in which I read how the procedure for unlocking and diagnosing this controller should look like.
What you did from the website looked "a little different", including the fact that the watch was different than those mentioned in this document (a modular clock or a clock tester). As far as I could see, after connecting to the diag line, he pressed the "D" button but it was the middle button, not the first button on the left as in the test clock.
In general, I have doubts if the man from the site tried to connect well (and if he had the right equipment for it), especially since I suspect blocking the driver. In connection with the above, I have a few questions.
I think it's good to have a structured set of information about the Eberspacher D3WZ driver itself:
1. One of the documents that describe Eber's diagnostics says that errors 015 and 050 - and therefore blockage - do not apply to the D3WZ additional heater.
(I found a total of three similar instructions - Polish, English and German, this is the English document "Eberspacher_D3WZ_Hydronic_heater_workshop_manual.pdf", in the other two error numbers 015 and 050 are also marked with an asterisk, but there is no explanation of what this asterisk means). Is it true? Is D3WZ really not "blocking"? This would explain why in many cars it is enough to disconnect the power to the stove for a while - just to give it a chance to reset. Without it, he has the power connected all the time and remembers the faulty condition.
2. However, if the physical controller lock occurs in D3WZ - how does it manifest? My Eber is silent, nothing clicks, does not whistle, etc. After connecting the power supply, it takes about 50 mA. The controller, after unplugging the internal plug and connecting the power supply, outputs +12 V on the fan pins of the internal plug (13 and 14) and consumes 0.5 mA. Connecting the fan and connecting the power supply means that +12 V on the fan pins does not appear anymore - to my taste it looks like a typical self test. Hence I suppose my driver is not dead.
One more observation: when I connect the + 12V power line to the controller, + 12V also appears on the diag line, but if I connect the power supply and ground - the Diag line is pulled to ground. This would indicate that some basic control of this line takes place on the controller side. What does communication look like at all? Should the controller transmit something with the power connected,or maybe the waveform will be visible only after connecting the modular clock (which will probably be the master in this communication)?
3. What can you do with the driver when it is locked? Is it possible to read errors on it (eg with the "D" button as you tried on the website)? Or maybe you need to perform the unlocking procedure first and then you will be able to read the errors? In fact, no instructions describe how the blockage of the controller manifests itself, except that the stove does not work.
4. How can you 100% confirm that the driver is damaged (not blocked)? I read in a thread that someone was successful after a few attempts to unlock the unlocking procedure ... Are there any steps - further actions, current measurements, pin states, e.g. measured with an oscilloscope, etc., that allow you to confirm 100% that the controller is damaged? It would be worth confirming this in some way, before we start the time-consuming digging out the driver from the housing and from this jelly ...
5. Can the controller without accessories (sensors, candle, fan, pump - i.e. with the internal plug disconnected) be diagnosed / unlocked? Or maybe you need a complete stove? Of course, the diagnostics will show errors related to the lack of individual components, but unlocking could be done ..
6. Is it enough to connect only three lines for diagnostics / unlocking (power, ground and diag [blue and white])? Or maybe you also need an additional excitation signal and / or climatronics? (When I suggested on the website that maybe you need to unplug the stove from the car, because maybe something else is blocking the diag line, you said that it did not make sense, because all the other lines will also have to be dragged (pump, excitation, climatronics signal) ..
7. Is there anything more than cold February happening in the damaged driver? Are there any standard controller failures caused by many years of stagnation? In the lower part, some pins of the internal plug are a bit tarnished (those from temperature sensors - I treated them with "S-Contact"), but nothing else. The wires are intact and healthy, the jelly is not burned out. As far as I read the forums, the most common damage (apart from cold solders) is the detachment of an element while cleaning the driver from jelly ... In one thread someone had a burned path from the candle - but this is probably not my case.
8. Referring to my case, with a little theorizing:
The candle was burnt, so once the stove worked (probably from 8 years ago or earlier). After burning the candle, the driver blocked after 10 unsuccessful attempts. Later, for 8 consecutive years, the power supply was still on, but it was blocked all the time due to a candle burning. Could the driver be damaged in this situation? In my opinion, not really ... At most those cold February, tarnished connections (because the inside of the furnace is not hermetic).
Well, unless my driver was damaged in such a way that it did not cut off the power supply to the candle, causing it to burn ... That would be an option ..
Or maybe there is some common cause of driver damage? If so - where to look for it (a transistor? A diode?)?
9. I saw many threads about D3WZ - many photos of disassembled stoves and their drivers. I noticed that they often differ in their internal plugs - in some they are 10-pin rectangular in shape, in others 14-pin oval shaped (like in mine). Interestingly, the outputs of these oval plugs correspondthe conclusions described in the drivers from D5WS - are these drivers replaceable? Is there a list of D3WZ versions somewhere with the differences between their versions? Maybe, since the outputs are the same as in D5WS, then like D5WS - the driver may lock up?
10. I saw on OLX that you can buy a modular clock for less than PLN 100.
10.a) Is there a list of clock numbers with their parameters somewhere? I saw that they definitely differ in: supply voltage (12V / 24V), use in wet and dry heaters (which is equivalent to the presence or absence of a potentiometer) and the language version. So far I found such a list:
22 1000 30 38 00 - Air Heater, EN, with potentiometer, 12 or 24V
22 1000 30 40 00 - Air Heater, DE, with potentiometer, 12 or 24V
22 1000 30 34 00 - Water Heater, EN, without potentiometer, 12 or 24V
22 1000 30 36 00 - Water Heater, DE, without potentiometer, 12 or 24V
I also saw (I will try to complete if I get more data):
22 1000 30 44 00 -? ? without potentiometer, 12V
22 1000 30 35 00 -? ? without a potentiometer,? V (it could have been an error in the number because I have not found such a marking anywhere)
25 1483 73 00 00 -? ? without potentiometer, looks like some older type
I am enclosing two documents that I have not seen before on our forum, regarding the operation and connection of modular clocks.
10.b) Can any clock be used to diagnose and unlock the controller? Or maybe it has to be dedicated to wet heating if we want to operate the D3WZ?
10.c) Will only the clock with the Eberspacher logo work? Can the Webasto clock also diagnose / unlock the driver? They look the same, they even have the same connection on the back and differ only in the logo on the front panel ...
I hope that my topic will start a series of tips and tricks on how to diagnose and repair additional heaters drivers.
Greetings!
).