parking with automatic machine without handbrake on an incline

Hello

I am going to buy a car with an automatic transmission and an automatic handbrake.
I have one doubt that I would like someone to dispel it:

As you know, in winter there is a risk of brake linings freezing with the handbrake on. In manual transmissions, the matter is simple - the handbrake is not applied, it is enough to shift the opposite gear to the direction of the slope. What does it look like in a slot machine? Is setting the automat in the 'P' position sufficient? The car will not roll down? Of course, the matter is in a mountainous area.

It will not roll down

It will not. If you can, put a P and try to gently roll the car. You will see for yourself that it is impossible.

But there is another problem. The brake (usually band brake) will wear faster with its constant use under load (hill) and in the morning there may be a problem with the difficulty of shifting the gear lever from the "P" position of such a loaded brake. In the manual of such a car, it is usually written that position P is not a handbrake and in the first place we apply the appropriate parking brake, and then we switch to position P.
I drove the automatic machine for several years and noticed the phenomenon of blocking the lever in the P position when parking uphill. I solved the problem in the yard by making small holes for the car at the end of the driveway (furniture strips) into which the front wheels fell, and after stabilizing the car's position, I switched it to the P position.

Whether it is a band brake or a simple (and quite delicate) latch, it is not a parking brake, but rather a protection that a fired car does not move by itself. On the other hand, an efficient and properly maintained handbrake does not freeze

Thanks to everyone for the answers

kortyleski wrote:

Whether it is a band brake or a simple (and quite delicate) latch, it is not a parking brake, but rather a protection that a fired car does not move by itself. On the other hand, an efficient and properly maintained handbrake does not freeze

Hmmm, one thing puzzles me - how to maintain the handbrake linings? I don't want you to get me wrong, but I will ask a little ironically - should I put oil on them? :D

candycane wrote:

One reads the car's manual, and does not listen to the stupidity duplicated by laymen. Ask for oils, everyone from the shop knows about oils ...

I read the manual and did not find the answer to the question asked here.
I do not know what nonsense duplicated by laymen you are talking about, but I am I have not duplicated these errors with certainty

mortifero wrote:

Hmmm, one thing puzzles me - how to maintain the handbrake linings? I don't want you to get me wrong, but I will ask a little ironically - should I put oil on them?

In most cars, the handbrake uses the same jaws / blocks as the service brake, the only element that freezes are the cables and they require maintenance (lubrication).

The entire handbrake system requires maintenance, inspection and replacement of worn parts. For example, the rubber covers of the pistons in the calipers or the elements of the expander and self-adjuster in drum brakes. Just a solid inspection before winter and nothing is allowed to freeze.

I have a question that interests me. If we often pull by hand, do we do it "good" or rather bad for its condition? The line is stretching? How many latches do you apply the brake for? Because it is enough for 1-2 to prevent the car from being pushed through. But, for example, when there is a steep hill, even giving a 4 car continues to roll. Once, while driving, I tried to block the rear wheels with a manual wheel, no chance. So what does my handheld require service?

bnbnb wrote:

if there is a steep hill, it goes downhill even with a 4 car. Once, while driving, I tried to block the rear wheels with a manual wheel, no chance. So what does my handheld require service?

Yes.

bnbnb wrote:

If we often pull by hand, do we do it "good" or rather bad for its condition?

We are doing him wrong. Just as we do badly to the engine and tires and other mechanisms when driving a car. To do them well, you should not ride

kortyleski wrote:

bnbnb wrote:

If we often pull by hand, do we do it "good" or rather bad for its condition?

We are doing him wrong. Just as we do badly to the engine and tires and other mechanisms when driving a car. To do them well, you should not ride

And in addition, store it in appropriate conditions, because driving alone is not enough

And when you apply the manual brake pads are damaged?

If you manually block the blocks on the back, yes, but they will deteriorate to such a small extent that they will fall apart faster from old age or the rust will eat them up And as for the machine, blocking the wheels on "P" is so convenient that the manual brake seems to be an unnecessary addition

But in what sense they wear out when the car does not brake then but stands on the brake so nothing rubs against itself.

And whether leaving P or in gear does not have a negative effect on the gearboxes because they are overloaded.

wowka wrote:

And as for the machine, blocking the wheels on "P" is so convenient that the manual brake seems to be an unnecessary addition

And when it is not used for a long time, it corrodes happily. When it needs to be used, it turns out that it does not work ...

bnbnb wrote:

And whether leaving P or in gear does not have a negative effect on the gearboxes because they are overloaded.

You will not leave it on the run because you will not take the key out. And on the P:

kortyleski wrote:

Is it a band brake or a simple (and quite delicate) latch, it is not a parking brake, but rather a protection that a fired car does not start by itself

Have you read

But leaving the P / or gear in the manual without manual damage, do not damage the gearbox?

I do not know about the automatic machine, but in the manual gearbox it is unfavorable (in gear, without the brake) due to the compression of the vibration damper springs in the clutch disc (less important) or the dual-mass wheel.

No offense, but if you want to worry about dual mass and springs in the disc, you can also put the car on hollow bricks at night because the springs and tires get tired.
Ah, more valve springs etc.

The principle is simple, we have a manual, we do what we want and here are unexamined sentences , it's a matter of luck when the link breaks .
But in the machine, it is a bit complicated, because, for example, when we park on flat ground, there is no need to manually draw, but if there is a drop, you can have an unpleasant surprise if we cannot move the lever, but it is different in different cars, my friend has an automatic machine without a manual (broken) and drives for 3 years and he has not yet had a chance to lock the lever, but the hill is not equal to :D

As for the corrosion of the line, it is also different, because now all the lines are in plastic and whether we use it or not, it hangs, well, unless someone has to tighten it, it swings the line faster, with clamps it is different, but if someone has on the back of the drum, I would advise you to use a manual one, but I would not advise you to drag it on wet drums in the frost and leave it overnight, because usually the effect is literally brick, I know from my autopsy. (driving on three wheels, then the burner on the rim and heating )

And how many cloves do you make by hand, I am asking seriously.

And how many toasts do you eat for breakfast , you know your car, so you apply the brake so that the brake does its job, it will be different in each car.

Well, for me, 1 tooth in the garage, I will not overload it, but when I stand on the hill, even on 4-5 teeth (max), the car barely holds and each leaning against the car results in the brake releasing for a moment and the car rolls :!

And I used to have a problem with the left wheel (it braked half of what was needed), I changed the drum, the jaws, the cable and nothing, only the change of the car helped , I bought a second car and the problem repeated but in the second wheel Well, such a luck and I will rather not buy a car with drums at the back, no discs (less problems) and better brakes.

And what is the purpose of taking a hand and running a number of meters on it to clean, what and how?

Rather, it probably serves to burn the brakes if you have a disc drum, you won't do a manual job, if there is a thick layer of rust on the disc or drum, only replacing it will heal it, but what to replace it , I bought bosch shields for zafira and they are scrap, after winter they are all in thick rust, they arrived only in the middle of summer, I bought a set with blocks, new shields and they squeak just like some Icarus.

But it was written in the manual that it was for manual cleaning? I mean, take 1 clove and drive a few hundred meters, but what for?

To clean the drums of surface corrosion.

SAWEK101 wrote:

And I used to have a problem with the left wheel (it braked half of what was needed), I changed the drum, the jaws, the cable and nothing, only the change of the car helped , I bought a second other car and the problem repeated but in the second wheel Well, such a luck and I will rather not buy a car with drums at the back, no discs (less problems) and better brakes.

Drum brakes have self-adjusting jaws, but they require initial adjustment, but unfortunately practically no one does it ("ladies, why do you get there"). Often, these self-regulators are also corroded and out of order.

Doesn't that apply to shields?