Replacing Screw-in Automatic Fuses in Apartment: Selecting Fuse Types, Amperage & Protection

Hello everyone, I wanted to replace an old type of screw-in automatic fuse with a modern one in an apartment in a block of flats. There is one 25A fuse in the staircase next to my meter. In my apartment I have two automatic fuses, 10 A each, one protects the lighting and the other protects the sockets. There is an aluminum cable installation in the apartment. My question is what type of fuses to use and with what amperage? The lighting is on energy-saving bulbs - is 6A enough? Can I use 16A sockets then? What type of protection can I provide, only overcurrent or differential protection and how to connect it? What characteristics must these fuses have? Thanks for the answers.

grom7 wrote:

What type of security you can give or only overcurrent or can i also differential and how to connect it? What characteristics must these fuses have?

Electrician no gives only installs. Are you an electrician? Are you qualified to install and not "give"?

After reading the author's post, I can only see two solutions.
1. Leave it and do not touch it.
2. Have it replaced by a qualified person.

PS.
In apartments aluminum cable installations they don't like RCDs.

zbich70 wrote:

grom7 wrote:

What type of security you can give or only overcurrent or can i also differential and how to connect it? What characteristics must these fuses have?

Electrician no gives only installs. Are you an electrician? Are you qualified to install and not "give"?

Keep these types of answers to yourself and "do not help" any more.

Added after 3 [minutes]:

The fuse overheats and stinks, it often "breaks" during washing, so why leave it and not move? The housing with fuses heats up. I want to solve the problem at home, so if someone has normal answers and wants to help, please.
Approx. the differential fuse drops out.

It heats up because it connects poorly and overheats. I had the same with the same type of fuses as yours. Whether you do it yourself or not, the fuses must be replaced together with the switchgear. An installation with an aluminum one is probably a two-wire one, so you will not install an RCD.

I will certainly be able to replace it myself. Well, the installation is two-wire. That is, buy the so-called switching stations and two fuses - overcurrent circuit breaker only just can I give 16A for sockets? There was always 10A, there is a 25A fuse in front of them. The cable has a diameter of 1.9 mm measured with a caliper.

grom7 wrote:

I will certainly be able to replace it myself.

You will certainly be able to hurt yourself, I do not know about cars, so I have a mechanic for this, since you probably do not even know what type of network you have, and even less have no idea how to choose protection, do not think that everyone will enter and say :
"oh how good that someone wants to replace the security - I'll help him"
if you are counting on something like that, you will not get such approval here.

for installation as you write it:

grom7 wrote:

The cable has a diameter of 1.9 mm measured with a caliper.

Nobody will recommend the use of 16A, and you know at least what characteristics would fit the 10A installed by you: A? B? C? D?

The fact that it stinks, requires a proper cleaning, but not only the automatic insert, but also the connections in the socket, unfortunately we are afraid that if you do it, you may end up in the ICU, I hope you are not from my area, stupid to was to meet at SOR.

Hire an electrician, not the old national practice:
Can you do it?
WE ARE.

grom7 wrote:

It was always 10A.

... and stick to that until you replace the installation, as you can see, it is not functional.
The replacement and selection of overcurrent switches is just the beginning. After the replacement, you should check the electric shock protection, and for this you need the right equipment and another portion of knowledge. Therefore, for your safety, no one will write you a ready-made version here, because they do not know your abilities or permissions, nor the technical condition of the electrical installation.

You live in blocks of flats, go to the administration of the block, they have electricians there. Talk to them, they will come, watch, decide. It is best to start with replacing the installations, of course in consultation with them (electricians).

Thanks for all the answers. I will draw conclusions. As for safety, there is a fuse in front of the apartment, as I mentioned, after removing the voltage on the fuse sockets in the apartment, there is no risk of falling off the ladder, but I have a new one and I am not a break.

I cleaned the contacts of the fuses and sockets, but because not only the fuse is still warming up, that's why I want to replace the switchboards and I thought that I would install a new type because my neighbor did so years ago and is happy .
Conclusion: I am looking to buy a new type of switchgear and two 10A overcurrent fuses, B characteristics each. After the exchange, I will share my impressions, it will definitely not be electrocution, I promise .

They get hot because you exceed their rated current, you will not change it, and in the case of S-ki you will only make things worse, but since you know better ...

Count how much electricity you use on a regular basis, convert how much is A,
you have 10A protection, and the load is probably at or higher ...
Additionally, these Al instead of Cu ...

serwisor wrote:

They get hot because you exceed their rated current, you will not change it, and in the case of S-ki you will only make things worse, but since you know better ...

Count how much electricity you use on a regular basis, convert how much is A,
you have 10A protection, and the load is probably at or higher ...
Additionally, these Al instead of Cu ...

The service technician has nowhere written that I know better, otherwise I would not ask on this forum. Al are from the beginning, I will not change because it's too early to renovate. Household appliances have been the same for 10 years, and electronics and computers are changing but for more energy-saving, I have a power consumption meter.
Korrus666 is right: "It heats up because it connects poorly and overheats. I had the same fuses with yours. Whether you do it yourself or not, the fuses need to be replaced together with the switchgear ..."
The switchgear and fuses are 40 years old.

In post number 3 there were tips on how to proceed.

Continuing to beat the foam is of no use.
I close the topic.