Automation for a 62m2 flat - wired or wireless, which systems to choose?

Hi.

As I'm slowly preparing for a general refurbishment of a 62m2 flat in a big slab, I thought about putting in some automation.
I've been reading up on the subject for a few days now, I see various solutions, wired and wireless, company and self-made and so on.
What would I want to control? Nothing overly grand.
Lights, some sockets, blinds, air conditioning, home cinema (e.g. changing channels on the TV), room temperature and weather outside, a camera, maybe valves on radiators and gas? Nothing particularly big, it's meant to be more of a toy and a hobby. At the entrance to the flat, there is a tablet which shows the current temperature, allows you to control everything you can, and after clicking on it, will display, for example, how many minutes it takes for bus line X to leave. In addition to this, everything can be controlled by phone and via the Internet.

The basic question is: which solution should I use for this kind of fun? I don't want to buy anything expensive because that's not what it's for.
I have initially read about the solution of laying an ethernet cable everywhere and managing this via arduino/rpi etc. That's about right, I suspect there are some tablet apps that will display what I want, I know a bit about programming but when I told the electrician I wanted to run those 20 cables into the room he got a bit concerned and said the walls might not be able to take it.

I looked at wireless solutions, but I don't want to pay 150zl for one light switch (fibaro?), nor do I want to have battery switches (exta free?), rather a simple system that would work.

I have been looking for some compendium of knowledge on the subject. I'm also asking for some guidance on what to base it on as it's possible that in a week or two I'll have to tell the machers what I really need for these things.
I have the space for an ethernet rack.Help with a low cost something

What fund do you have at your disposal (how much do you want to spend max. for these trinkets PLN)?
I must warn you at the very beginning because these toys are not cheap Unless you want to do everything yourself. From electronic construction to programming and programming everything.

I'm not an electrician or an electronics technician, I want an electrician to lay it all out for me when I lay the wiring. I want it all to come together in the hallway and I would already have it there in the wardrobe. However, I can program, some python or something is not terrible for me
I don't have a specific limit I'd like to spend on it, cheaper is better, but above all I just want to lay it down and learn, I plan to sell the flat in a couple of years - so that I already have some experience on something more targeted. I'm prepared for _a few_ thousand, I realise that ultimately it all depends on how complicated the system is. For the moment, the most important element is probably to get the cables, sensors and that sort of thing well distributed? I suspect that a normal electrician with a builder can do this, because how would these cables be any different to a normal cable with electricity....
I rather want to do it cheap and well, I've seen some open source software to do it e.g. domoticz, I think something nice could be done on that basis.
And because everything rather low cost - if something should break in this control is that the light switches continue to turn on the lights simply

A few thousand is how much? 2, 5, 7?
You write cheap and good hmm. Tano and good don't go hand in hand.
I can recommend you a Polish company from Wroclaw www.nexwell.eu go to them or write to them what you want to achieve.

I specifically wrote a few. I know that for two thousand I won't achieve much, because just laying cables and some basic sensors will cost more. My point is rather that I see on the Internet how people for example embrace the temperature sensors for -teen zloty each, with a good effect, or indoor cameras 720p for 300zł, and a sensible tablet with android will also cost a few hundred dollars. The point is to lay good cables to good places, and even if there is not enough money for everything until the end, the basic installations should be laid in the right way and one day only add another sensor at will. I was thinking of keeping to 5-8 thousand for the time being without the cost of laying everything.

I've seen nexwell, I'll probably go to them to talk, but I'm a little afraid that with this type of solution the costs will skyrocket (vide control terminal for a few thousand).

My first associations for you when it comes to choosing a controller are Sterbox or IUVO.... Nexwell is rather high end. For more I invite you to visit your www.

Sterbox I advise against because it's a toy and not a controller. It doesn't even have a simple 0-10V input and output More advanced programming and you will run out of programming blocks. Look for topics on the electrode.
IUVO I don't know, but just browsing quickly it is similar to sterbox. Toy.
Instead of Sterbox and IUVO I would prefer a Fatek PLC, more room and possibilities. You can connect some kind of operator panel and have a monitor at the door

Unfortunately but such toys cost money. A person who is not aware of the prices is, in my opinion, jumping out of the blue. If someone does not have the money it is better to do a traditional installation because playing with pseudo controllers in my opinion does not make sense.

We can recommend a "half-measure": an almost traditional installation based on bistable relays (e.g. lighting: a cable from a lamp and a cable from an astable "bell" switch are connected to the distribution board; in the distribution board, a bistable relay; 230 Vac sockets controlled in a similar way; roller shutters: a motor - cable to the distribution board and a manipulator with a second cable, also connected ... etc.)
In the switchboard, on the "start" day, there will be devices connecting the manipulator of the given reception with the reception + power supply, fuses, etc. Then, the circuits can be plugged in.
Then, interface I/O relays can be connected to the circuits and control any PLC or other system device.
There will always be the comfort that if a controller or system goes down, everything will traditionally work.
And to start with, the cost is only slightly higher than a completely traditional solution (protection - ON/OFF switch - lamp).
Also audio devices can be controlled: RC5 code receivers in each room and e.g. via MODBUS (a nod to the PLC) - then a transmitter in the "TV room" from any point can be used to control e.g. the TV.... and additionally some/unused channels can be used to control e.g. roller blinds or curtains.
PLC equipped with ethernet and you can already control remotely (e.g. view parameters of the "hut")

puexam wrote:

E...For the moment the most important element is probably to get the cables, sensors and such well distributed? I suspect this is something a normal electrician with a builder would be able to do, because what would make these cables different from a normal cable with current...

Because you will get confused
The most important differences are the parameters (e.g. type of twisted pair/category etc.), max distances, possibilities of additional interference and the way of laying (not arbitrary either)
I somehow miss the SAT TV/DVB-T installation, e.g. how many ( and what kind of) cables to a point, or an additional twisted pair e.g. for power distribution.

And 90% of electricians do it wrong

puexam wrote:

.... but when I told the electrician that I would like to run these 20 cables into the room he got a bit concerned and said that these walls might not be able to withstand it....

Change Electrician

tomiok wrote:

puexam wrote:

... but when I told the electrician that I would like to run these 20 cables into the room he got a bit concerned and said that these walls might not be able to withstand it....

Change Electrician

A colleague has been on site to make such bold assertions?

Ok.
I have analysed what I would really want from the system.
An overview of the flat.
http://i.snag.gy/p3MP1.jpg


ROOM 1 (study, at the entrance)
1 light switch 2 buttons
3 boxes each with 2 power sockets
1 box 4 sockets
2 sockets 2xLAN
1 TV box
* internal temperature sensor
* external temperature sensor
* light control
* (control of sockets and heater)

ROOM 2 (children's room)
1 light switch 2 buttons
3 boxes each with 2 power sockets
2 LAN boxes
* internal temperature sensor
* light control
* (control of sockets and heater)

KITCHEN.
1 light switch 2 buttons
3 boxes each with 2 electric sockets
* internal temperature sensor
* light control
* gas valve
* smoke detector, gas
* (control of sockets and heater)

TOILET.
* flooding detector

BATHROOM
1 light switch 1 button
2 boxes each with 2 electric sockets
* light control
* flood sensor
* (control of sockets and heater)

ROOM 3 (living room)
1 light switch 2 buttons
4 boxes each with 2 power sockets
1 box with 1 electrical outlet each
2 boxes 2xLAN
1 LAN box
1 TV box
2 HDMI x2 boxes

* internal temperature sensor
* external temperature sensor
* light control
* air-conditioning
* blinds x 2
* control of TV, audio
* (control of sockets and heater)

BALCONY.
1 box 1 socket electr.
* outdoor camera
* weather station
* (control of sockets and heater)

HALL
3 light switches 2 buttons
2 boxes each with 2 power sockets
* light control
* interior camera
* door sensor
* tablet
* door bell + chime
* (socket control)


I've done some reading and calculating and I'm thinking about fibaro again. For such a simple system, would I perhaps need something like this? How can I control the TV from fibaro (or any other system)?

@pafciowaw: I understand what you write, I run cables from the control panel e.g. to the switch and separately to the lamp and in the control panel I connect it accordingly. And when it's settled, I plug that controller in between and that's it.
@tomiok: I rather meant both. I hope the above description brings you a bit closer to what I want to achieve.

It is possible to "in between" but this again raises questions:.... what if the controller dies...?
I'm thinking of a parallel solution: everything works on basic modules e.g. a bistable relay - for a light or a socket;
... and the control system has the ability and priority to switch the aforementioned.

Having been involved in this type of solution for a few years, I dare say that the most economical systems are built based on SATEL and, possibly, a PLC. I have recently made comparative calculations and there is one company with solutions typical for building automation, whose price pleasantly surprised me and whose systems are easily scalable to needs - read about KOHER solutions.

Why two outdoor temperature sensors? Use one sensor on the balcony (terrace).
In the bathroom, use a flood sensor as in the toilet and a double switch.
ROOM 3 (living room) Why three LAN sockets?
Do you have a radiator on the balcony too?

@traper-zk: can their systems be operated from any android? Usually such ready-made manipulators not only do not look very beautiful, but their functionality cannot be extended to include e.g. the weather forecast or information on when your favourite bus is leaving from the nearest stop. I was thinking of writing myself a simple app for this.
@Popak: The balcony is south-facing, so I'm afraid that when the sun shines, the temperature sensor will show 50 degrees instead of 25. Wrong? In the bathroom there will be two light points, one general light switched on from outside and a mirror light with its own switch, in the toilet one light point switched on from outside. I don't know what the two-button switch is for - also to switch off the overhead light? Hmm... LAN sockets - TV (hung with no visible cables, no wifi), TV cabinet, table area (for future reference). On the balcony a heater of course! (ctrl-v one time too many...)

Additional question, would I be able to run HDMI through the wall between the studio and the large room? What is the maximum length of the HDMI cable?

Łukasz-O wrote:

A colleague has been to the site that he makes such bold assertions?

No, of course there may be exceptions.
But I don't want to believe that it's impossible to run 20 cables through, not always one route of course.
But that means a lot more work, usually for the same money, which is hardly worth it for an electrician .
Especially forging in large concrete slabs is a challenge, and few electricians use paving machines (although they are becoming more common).
I have laid more cables in such slabs and somehow managed

puexam So what if it's on the south side. If you place it appropriately it won't be obfuscating.
And if you are so worried about hypocrisy, why do you put a weather station on the south side which also measures the temperature
Two LAN sockets are easily enough in the room. One for the TV and one for the computer or reserve.
Ps. Reading the inventory I see that you do not envisage a panel at the door?

puexam wrote:

...
@tomiok: I rather meant both cable and this. I hope the above description gets you a bit closer to what I want to achieve.

Computer cables, and not infrequently coaxial cables for TV/SAT, are often bent by electricians at very sharp angles, causing signal drops or even damage to the internal cable/insulation.
A cable is a cable - not exactly.
A cable is a shielded twisted pair or a normal twisted pair, which category ?

1 TV box - and TV from where ? Cable, SAT, DVB-T?
If SAT/DVB-T then where will the dish/antenna be ?
Or cable ?
A TV box is a box, but there is no information on what will be in this box (what sockets and how many).
For example, if the SAT is going to be in the box, maybe it's worth having 2 cables for the TV (maybe one day there will be a set-top box with a recorder)?
Hardly any electrician will think of this and suggest it.
And if SAT - how many cables from the antenna/tower to the ration point?

And internet from where do we have /what speed/how delivered (cable/radio/itp/) ?
The cable with internet access will not be changed to fibre in the near future ?

The child will never want a TV in his room ?

Wife will never want a TV in the kitchen ?

And the alarm for the modern flat won't either ?

Window contactors would be useful - info if we have all the windows closed (e.g. when it rains, or for the alarm).

Some kind of main control panel?

If already cameras - it would be worth giving such a camera instead of a peephole and see who visited us when we were not there
Be able to see where you need to.
If there was a TV everywhere, you could see who was just standing at the door.
It can be programmed and the moment you press the bell, it turns on the TV itself and shows you who is walking about.

etc.etc.

P.S. Don't forget to take photos before bricking up the cables - it comes in handy.

Oki. I asked another electrician for his opinion, and he, after seeing the flat, also said that it would be quite expensive to take care of the control cables. Therefore, I think I will end up with fibaro. In the more expensive version, I can handle the control by coding in LUA, so it's not too bad. Unless you think that exta free is better?
If I have fibaro, can I control any device after z-wave?

@Popak: the panel at the door, you mean? A sensor if the door is open or closed? Actually I was thinking of mounting this at the front door, just wondering what I would do with it, the only thing I can think of that makes sense is an alarm mode where every time the door is opened it sends a text message to my mobile phone or something....

@tomiok: oh, thanks for a handful of good questions!
TV will most likely be from satellite (digital polsat), possibly internetia. Regarding the multiroom with SAT, I understand that I should pull SAT cables from the dish to each room where I want to have TV? I understand that if I buy digital polsat with multiroom I put a decoder at each end - if without a decoder - I will be able to watch FTA? If internetia then what kind of cables should I pull for this, twisted pair?
The internet from the internetia is fibre optic - 100mbps.
Child too small to have TV, wife doesn't want TV in kitchen, contractons for windows rather unnecessary (6th floor), information about whether closed.... maybe in the next, bigger flat .
Alarm - I'm thinking of a contracton on the front door (as I wrote above) + a camera in the hallway + maybe some motion sensor somewhere. I don't know what else I could apply to such a flat.
Main control panel - tablet in the hallway.
Camera instead of a peephole - looks like a good idea, but how to power it? The flat has double doors.... the problem of getting a power cable - and one I think the camera needs

About the pics before finalising the walls I remember, I saw somewhere a lament of a man who drilled himself a bunch of cables

Do you envisage a touch panel.



Because in my opinion a tablet rather inconvenient to use, I mean the battery, charging and start-up time.

I would like something like this, but normal touch panels of this type are usually some kind of closed environment in which I can't change anything - and on a tablet I can easily (I think) throw in apps for buses that are about to leave the stop or my favourite weather forecast.
I would, however, normally attach such a tablet to a wall bracket that would charge it all the time, something like http://www.cyberselect.co.uk/automation/ipad-...iroom-motorised-landscape-aluminium-wall-dock but without the absurd price

puexam wrote:

@traper-zk: can their systems be operated from any android? Usually such ready-made manipulators not only do not look very beautiful, but their functionality cannot be extended with e.g. weather forecast or information when your favourite bus is leaving from the nearest stop. I was thinking of writing myself a simple app for this.
@Popak: The balcony is south-facing, so I'm afraid that if the sun shines, the temperature sensor will show 50 degrees instead of 25. Wrong? In the bathroom there will be two light points, one general light switched on from outside and a mirror light with its own switch, in the toilet one light point switched on from outside. I don't know what the two-button switch is for - also to switch off the overhead light? Hmm... LAN sockets - TV (hung with no visible cables, no wifi), TV cabinet, table area (for future reference). On the balcony a heater of course! (ctrl-v one time too many...)

Additional question, would I be able to run HDMI through the wall between the studio and the large room? What is the maximum length of the HDMI cable?

Yes in both cases you can operate the system from android and if you can write an apk then you can go wild. Go to satell.pl and read up. I have a satell at home and I find this solution cool because whenever I get an idea I buy a module for a few zlotys and do what I want. It has its pros and cons, but you have to remember that it is not a KNX-type system, although it is integrated with it and it works nicely.
As for the hdmi, I put the longest one 25m passive but not every equipment wanted to work on it. But up to 10m with a good cable works

Added after 6 [minutes]:

http://www.satel.pl/pl/product/667/INT-TSI-BSB,Manipulator-z-ekranem-dotykowym#

http://www.koher.pl/Touch%20Screen%2010.html

puexam wrote:

Oki. I asked another electrician for his opinion, and he too, after seeing the flat, said that it would be quite expensive to embrace the control cables.

Costly, I can agree with that, but not impossible.

@tomiok: oh, thank you for a handful of good questions!
Please

>TV will most likely be from satellite (digital polsat), possibly internetia.
Where will the dish be ?



>When it comes to multiroom with SAT, I understand that I should pull from the dish
>SAT cables to each of the rooms in which I want to have TV?
And preferably 2 cables to each room
Because there may be a set top box with a recorder, if not now then in some time (if we do universal cabling)
I don't know how many TVs maximum there can be ?

As for the cable layout, I would add that instead of going from the dish to each room - it is best (universally) to have 5 cables (sometimes 9 if we want to have 2 satellites) going from the dish/antenna to the collecting point (box/distribution box).
Why e.g. 5? Because 4 for Quad or Quatro + 1 for possible terrestrial - that is DVB-T + Radio.

It is important (because electricians do not know about it) Such a cable, from the canopy (because it goes outside) should be black + gelled.
e.g. such (for short distances):
http://www.hollex.pl/kabel/kabel-satelitarny/1886-rolka-kabla-rg6u-cu-pe-100m-czarny-zelowany

Are you wondering why ? - Because it provides a high UV resistance of the cable and the gel provides protection against moisture, while a normal white cable after a few years cracks the insulation (from temperatures and UV) and problems begin.

The one inside the rooms can be "ordinary" RG6 (as long as it is all copper) .

The cabinet (for the equipment) should be a bit larger to possibly accommodate the multiswitch + a few small items (such as power supply/additional socket)

From there (from the central cabinet/cabinet) already 2 coaxial cables to each room + one twisted pair for distribution of power + internet to TV/Decoder.
Then we can have a universal form factor and connect e.g. a Quad LNB, or a Quatro+Multiswitch Converter, and change this configuration over time.

>I understand that if I buy digital polsat with multiroom
>I put a decoder at each end
Yes + twisted pair (entitlement/internet).

> - if without a decoder - will I be able to watch FTA?
As long as the TV has a decoder built in, if not, some sort of decoder will still be needed.


>If internetia then what cables should I pull for this, twisted pair?
>Internet from the internetia is fibre optic - 100mbps.
I understand they are terminating the fibre and putting in some kind of router/modem - which has an RJ45 output ?
Where will this fibre optic cable terminate ?
In the flat or in the corridor in some box?

>The child is too small to have a TV,
Today it is too small, but what are you going to do in 2-3 years, pull a new cable ?
Is it worth saving 10-20 metres of cable ?

>The wife does not want a TV in the kitchen,
Let's hope her view doesn't change when she goes to her friend who has it done this way


>Contractors for windows rather unnecessary (6th floor), information on whether closed....
>perhaps in the next, larger flat .
Your choice - so long as it is an informed and considered one.
I understand there are no balconies (which thieves sometimes climb over).

>Alarm - I'm thinking of a contractron on the front door (as I wrote above)
> + camera in the hallway + maybe some kind of motion sensor somewhere.
If a camera in the hallway, preferably hidden - maybe in a smoke detector (they are ready) ?
Let's not forget about the DVR then and where to hide it, and that the cables from the cameras - that's where they have to come together.

>I don't know what else I could apply to such a flat.
Lots of things - just a financial issue precisely

>Camera instead of viewfinder - looks like a good idea, but how to power it?
There must be cables going all the way to the external door to the viewfinder.
A viewfinder like this:
http://www.spy-shop.pl/kamera-wbudowana-wizjerze-do-drzwi-mf35d-p-673.html


>There are double doors in the flat.... the problem of getting a cable
>power supply - and this is probably needed for the camera
Power supply needed - as well as video.
With a consumption of about 50mA you can organise everything on one twisted pair cable.
What is often forgotten the twisted pair should then be of wire (not wire),
because it will be bent at the door.
Any problem drilling past the doorframe or through the doorframe ?

>For the photos before finalizing the walls I remember,
This is very good

Phew. I have written so much.
That's it in a nutshell, because time is pressing and it's late
Good luck [tr:d6f5b2cc2d] [/tr:d6f5b2cc2d]

Forgive me for responding late, but there's a lot going on

SAT TV digital polsat at 99%, canopy on balcony. Above in the topic is a link to a floor plan of the flat. The cable on the balcony (loggia) will be somewhere 1.2m long.... Generally copper cables. [Check]
I think that doing the installation to the box and from the box to the rooms misses the point in this flat.... [check] but I'll give it some more thought.

>I understand that they are terminating the fibre and putting in some sort of router/modem - which has an RJ45 output?
That's my understanding too There's fibre in the risers for sure, whether it's going to be pulled into the flat, I'll probably find out at the installation but I'd rather expect that....

>>Child too small to have a TV,
>Today too small, and what will you do in 2-3 years, pull a new cable ?
>Is it worth saving for 10-20 metres of cable ?
I hope that in 2-3 years there will still be no screaming for a TV of my own, and aside from that - that in 3 years I will sell this flat and buy an even bigger

>>Wife doesn't want a TV in the kitchen,
>>Let's hope her view doesn't change when she goes to a friend who has it done that way
I'm scared of that too, but when I asked about it (or the tablet) it was said that I want her not to leave the kitchen at all anymore

>I understand that there are no balconies
The balcony is (see picture above). And if the glass is broken the contractron will do nothing? I hope the sensor is enough....

>If a camera in the hallway, preferably hidden - maybe in a smoke detector (they are ready) ?
>Don't forget the DVR then and where to hide it, and that the cables from the cameras - that's where they have to go.
Definitely possibly hidden. I have the cables in mind.

>With a consumption of 50mA, you can organise everything on one twisted pair.
>What is often forgotten is that the twisted pair should then be made of cable (not wire),
as it will be bent at the door.
It looks like this will probably have to wait for a new door.

In general, however, I'm slowly convincing myself of fibaro, although I'm afraid that the switches won't fit into the box (for the moment, the contacts are all surface-mounted). All the more so as it turned out that the installation in the flat is copper and doesn't need to be replaced, so it will only need to be cut in some places (e.g. in the kitchen or under the intelligent installation).... thanks to this, there will be a few zlotys left
Thanks for the explanation!

puexam wrote:

SAT TV digital polsat at 99%, canopy on balcony. Above in the topic is a link to a floor plan of the flat. The cable on the balcony (loggia) will be somewhere 1.2m long.... Generally copper cables. [Check]
I think that doing the installation to the box and from the box to the rooms misses the point in this flat.... but I'll give it some more thought.

It can be simplified.
With 2 max TVs you can pull 2 cables from each room to the canopy, there you give the Quad and that's it

puexam wrote:

The balcony is (see picture above). And if the glass is broken the contractron will do nothing? I hope the sensor is enough....

Usually you break a pane of glass just to open a window, it's rather uncommon for someone to enter through a broken window.
I would add that there are also detectors for breaking glass - as if that's the case.
But in addition, thieves have refined methods, ordinary plastic windows can be opened without breaking the glass (i.e. without making any noise)

Of course, a detector which properly covers the windows will also take care of this.

Popak wrote:

Sterbox I advise against because it is a toy and not a controller. Not even a simple 0-10V input and output More advanced programming and you will run out of programming blocks.

Mate - maybe before you give your opinion then check what Sterbox can currently do.
The current version has 40 macrocells and almost every one apart from those dedicated to e.g. roller shutters, lighting, indicators has 8 digital logic elements, and additional logic functions at the input and output of each element. I can assure you that there will be no shortage of programming blocks. I think that the determinant of a toy is not only the lack of 0-10V input and output.

Added after 8 [minutes]:

puexam wrote:

I'd like something like this, but normal touch panels of this type are usually some kind of closed environment in which I can't change anything - and on a tablet I can easily (I think) throw in apps for buses that are about to leave the stop or my favourite weather forecast.

Maybe the topic is no longer relevant because you have already selected a controller, but for such an application jw. Sterbox is the ideal solution. It has 8 user pages ( plus 1 basic page), which you can upload according to your own design and discretion. That is, you insert the forecast you mentioned, the timetable or calendar, etc. and underneath next to or anywhere on the control or links to the individual control pages.

Master-Slave About six months ago I was playing with Sterbox and somehow couldn't develop a programme because I was missing blocks. Unfortunately it was my unsuccessful purchase and I was forced to sell. I stayed with my old Logo! Siemens. The only plus of the sterbox is what you wrote it has a built in web server but still you won't upload too much graphics. For me it's a toy, at least for today.

I join the question on what type of automation to choose for a flat.
I have started a topic on heating in one of the electrode subforums. But maybe I should start here.
About the flat in brief:
- Living room with annexe: 1 radiator, 3 windows
- Room 1: 1 radiator, 1 window
- Room 2: 1 radiator, 1 window
- Bathroom: 1 radiator, no windows
- Hallway open to living room/annex

Requirements:
Heating:
- i would like to control each radiator separately (4 zones)
- each room should be able to set the desired temperature independently
- window-opening sensor
- heating programmes can be set
- some sort of 'eco/reserve' button when leaving the flat or on winter holidays

My colleague @jack63 suggests three-position actuators. But what if the electricity fails, will such an actuator open itself and will the house be heated? Because I have not yet found such a head which, apart from automatic, would enable manual regulation (well, apart from the thermostatic head of the eQ-3 company - but this is closed software)

Lighting:
- when leaving the house (one button turns off all the lights - can be combined with the heating)
- lights switched on after midnight first light at 50% so as not to blind me. They can brighten over time or a second quick click turns them on at 100%

Gadget:
- after 10pm the bell doesn't ring but all the lights throughout the house blink to avoid waking the children
- can be controlled via the internet

Thank you in advance for your help in choosing/selecting the right system for me.

ovi_pl wrote:

I join the question regarding which automation to choose for a flat.
I have set up a topic in one of the electrode subforums regarding heating. But maybe I should start here.
About the flat in brief:
- Living room with annexe: 1 radiator, 3 windows
- Room 1: 1 radiator, 1 window
- Room 2: 1 radiator, 1 window
- Bathroom: 1 radiator, no windows
- Hallway open to living room/annex

I will suggest xComfort by Eaton

Quote:

Requirements:
Heating:
- i would like to control each radiator separately (4 zones)

Wireless solenoid valve CHVZ-01/03 - identical to eQ-3 MAX, only price different - 430 zł
You can use a wired CHVZ-01/01 - 150 zł, but you need a CSAU-01/01 receiver to drive it - 170 zł

Quote:

- each room should be able to independently set the desired temperature

You can do this using the control panel Room Manager CRMA-00/05 - supports up to 6 heating zones

Quote:

- window opening sensor

The wireless valve detects a sudden drop in room temperature and closes. If you choose wired, you have to use a reed switch and a transmitter with a binary input CBEU-02/02 - £260 (for 2 inputs)
Also probably better and cheaper to use wireless

Quote:

- adjustable heating programmes

You set the programs in Room Manager

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- some kind of 'eco/economy' button when leaving the flat or winter holidays

Holiday mode in Room Manager

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Colleague @jack63 suggests three-position actuators. Just what if the power goes out, will such an actuator open itself and will there be heating in the house? Because I have not yet found such a head which would allow, in addition to automatic, manual regulation (well, except for the thermostatic head of the company eQ-3 - but this is closed software)

A voltage-controlled (wired) actuator would have to be NO (normally open) to open on power failure. Cordless ones operate all the time according to the programmed scheme, even when the central unit is not powered.

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Lighting:
- when leaving the house (one button turns off all lights - can be paired together with the heating)

Standard functionality, a longer press of the switch button at the exit door turns off all pre-programmed receivers.

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- the lights that come on after midnight first light up to 50% so as not to blind me. They can brighten over time or a second quick click turns them on at 100%

Gadget:
- after 10pm the bell doesn't ring just blinks all the lights throughout the house so as not to wake the children

I have not done combinations with timers on this system.

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- can be controlled via the internet

Da: Smart Home Controller - CHCA-00/01 - 1800 zł

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Thank you in advance for your help in choosing/selecting the right system for me.

I hope I have helped

For home automation, I suggest the WAGO controller with a range of expansion modules. We have carried out several installations with home automation based precisely on WAGO controllers and they function without complaint. Here is a brief specification of one of the buildings:

1. Parameters of the building
A single-family house with a floor area of 150m2, single-storey, built on a foundation slab insulated with 20cm polystyrene. Walls made of YTONG cellular concrete. Facade made of 20cm polystyrene. Number of rooms – 11 (living room, dining room, kitchen, pantry, hall, bedroom 1, dressing room, bedroom 2, bathroom, laundry room, boiler room)

2. Description of the BMS system
The central control system in the building is a WAGO programmable logic controller (PLC) with input/output modules and a module integrating KNX bus devices. The electrical switchgear with fittings is located in the boiler room. In the dining room (connected to the kitchen and living room), bedrooms, bathroom and laundry room, there are triTon local push buttons from ABB, operating on the KNX bus, thanks to which it is possible to control roller shutters, lighting, temperature, etc.



A 7-inch main touchscreen panel has been installed in the lobby, allowing the entire building and all its functions to be controlled using hierarchically linked graphics.

3. Current functions of the BMS

a) Control of the external roller shutters in each room,
b) Control of classic and led lighting in each room,
c) Controlling the TV socket circuit,
d) Control of radiators in each room – heating of the building with eco-pea coal, each radiator is connected to a manifold on which electro-valves are installed,
e) Control of underfloor heating in the hall and bathroom,
f) Control of the Satel control panel,
g) Controls for the external lighting
h) Controlling the entrance gate.
i) Integration with heat pump,
j) Integration with air recuperator,
k) Integration with outdoor area monitoring,
l) Garden irrigation control