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Best Surge Protector for TV & Gaming Consoles: Top Company & Product Recommendations

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Which surge protector company or product is best for a TV and gaming consoles?

For a TV and gaming consoles, the thread suggests choosing a real surge protector from APC or Belkin if you want a better-quality option, while the ELGOTECH R-20F is presented as a very cheap but still worthwhile low-power choice. [#13759962] The R-20F is said to use two varistors and two spark gaps, whereas many cheaper strips only have one varistor, so the R-20F was recommended as better than typical budget extension strips. [#13732738][#13759962] If you want to spend more than about PLN 100, the advice was to look at APC or Belkin; one Belkin model was confirmed to contain varistors, and another Belkin strip was described as having an EMI/RFI filter, thermal fuses, and 918 J energy absorption. [#13759962][#13790770][#15246060] A Philips P54020 / SPN5044A / 19 strip was also mentioned as a stronger-sounding alternative because it claims 1800 J and a 58 dB EMI/RFI filter. [#15246060] For this kind of gear, the thread repeatedly notes that these strips are meant for low-power electronics, and that comprehensive building protection is better than relying on the strip alone. [#13759962][#15795321]
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Treść została przetłumaczona polish » english Zobacz oryginalną wersję tematu
  • #1 13730639
    Multime
    Level 9  
    Which company is the best to buy a surge protector? Of course, it is about connecting the TV and some player or console.
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  • #3 13751391
    Multime
    Level 9  
    I can't find the price anywhere.
    Do you have any more suggestions?
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  • #4 13751407
    freebsd
    Level 42  
    The R-20F in Tesco and Castorama were around PLN 17 each.
  • #5 13759472
    Multime
    Level 9  
    Well, you didn't spend much. I am thinking of something for a few dozen zlotys. I am thinking about the ever home strip. Anyone else have any suggestions?
  • #6 13759962
    freebsd
    Level 42  
    I'm glad I didn't spend much! I bought a dozen or so of these security devices ...
    I checked more expensive solutions - safety strips and modules. I have been dealing with surge protectors for twenty years. I recommend that everyone use them to secure individual computers. I also use them in companies, in server rooms.

    The R-20F has two varistors and two spark gaps, and in most solutions I have seen one varistor, very rarely two varistors and one spark gap. Knowing how much a varistor and a spark gap costs, it's hard for me to understand why I have to pay more than a few zlotys to an ordinary extension cord - because this is the maximum cost of the protections that I have seen in surge protectors.

    If the R-20F does not suit you, I advise you from my practice: look for solutions costing more than PLN 100, maybe something from APC, Belkin? In the cheaper ones, I usually saw one varistor (costing +/- 1 PLN in detail).
    The filters used in the few power strips are also in the basic version.

    You will get the greatest effectiveness of the overvoltage protection when you have the entire electrical installation secured, that is, in addition to class D protection (surge protectors), you will add C and B. If you do not have it, it may be worth expanding the protection.

    If you choose something and be able to take pictures of the interior, I will be happy to see them.
  • #7 13790250
    Multime
    Level 9  
    Does anyone have a belkin f9h400ep2m surge protector? Does she have a varistor? I can't find such information anywhere.
  • #8 13790770
    freebsd
    Level 42  
    On the Czech website I found information that it has varistors (three according to the picture).
  • #9 13797924
    Multime
    Level 9  
    I have just found such illustrations. In addition, I read on the Polish pages that it has a fuse or thermal fuses. I do not know if it has a thermal fuse, it does not exclude the fact that it has a varistor or vice versa.
  • #10 13798011
    freebsd
    Level 42  
    No, it doesn't. Illustratively: the fuse is an overload protection - it prevents the flow of excessive current (Ampere). The varistor, on the other hand, after increasing the voltage (Volt) above the assumed standard, starts to act as a receiver and absorbs excess power, making a short circuit, which lowers the voltage. When the varistor makes a "short circuit" for a long time, the fuse should work to protect the cables (in the walls and the extension cord itself), cutting off the power supply.

    I understand the thermal fuse as follows (and this is how it should be understood): the ordinary fuse must be replaced when it "blows", and the thermal fuse cools down and the strip can be used again.
  • #11 13810866
    Multime
    Level 9  
    Generally, you made me realize that the prices of surge protectors are too high. As you wrote earlier, varistors or spark gaps are a matter of a few zlotys and the rest is probably extra for the cable itself.
    When I buy a skirting board and I can unscrew it, I will see what's inside. So far I am thinking about the F9H400ep2M F9H410ep2M and F9A402ep2M strips.
    I see that you are on the topic, I have one more question. If I do not have sockets in such a surge protector and connect an ordinary extension cord to it for a dozen zlotys, will it be the correct extension of such a strip?
  • #12 13811090
    freebsd
    Level 42  
    Long ago, when I had my first job, surge protectors hit the market and my friend became one of the main distributors. It was he who encouraged me to check what was inside and made me realize the relation between the price and the content of this product. Since then, I have been following what can be bought and for what money for professional reasons. If I were to buy one security device, what's there ... But at home, in my cell and on my plot, I already have almost twenty of them, and in the companies (where I worked / work) there are hundreds and thousands of pieces. Generally, each employee has a computer and a power strip ... Only in a minimum number of cases the number of sockets in the walls corresponds to the need, and the strips are used as end protection anyway - and I want it to be the best protection possible.

    The rule is not to connect extension cords: due to the fact that this way also connects the protection pins, which may have a negative effect on their operation, and due to the possibility of drawing too much power (e.g. for a socket or cable). extension cord). The electrician might add something more, or deny it :-)

    However, good strips have an overcurrent protection in the form of a fuse and are usually used to power electronic equipment with low power consumption. For this, the best protection is simply a thinking user :-)
    Such a connection (strip-extension cord), however, provides overvoltage protection. I have connected equipment myself: http://jackiewiczowie.blogspot.com/2013/12/centrum-zarzadzania-swiatem-zasilanie.html In the first photo (and not only) you can see one surge protector and several extension cords - with the power the consumed rarely exceeds 500W, and I checked the protective connections with a milliohmmeter.
  • #13 13811188
    Multime
    Level 9  
    I am asking because the surge protector I want to buy only has four sockets and I still need five or six. Now I do not know myself whether it will be safe to extend such a strip with an extension cord.
  • #14 13811282
    freebsd
    Level 42  
    What will you feed from it? Can you connect devices that do not have a security pin to the extension cord? - like some power supplies for monitors, laptops, chargers?
  • #15 13811379
    Multime
    Level 9  
    So yes. I want to connect an extension cord to the strip, which will be connected to a TV set, laptop, set-top box, modem, router and possibly a console and a player.

    Please correct the post - regulations, point 3.1.13 [dzimi]
  • #16 13815130
    freebsd
    Level 42  
    Estimates energy consumption:
    TV: 200W
    Laptop: 100W
    Decoder: 40W
    15W modem
    15W router
    100W console
    70W player
    I would not be afraid to connect the extension cord to the strip at home, especially since the F9H400ep2M strip you are proposing has a 16A overcurrent protection.
  • #17 14773204
    3echo
    Level 15  
    If I connect the R-20F to the main socket and any power strip (7 sockets), will it be a good protection?
  • #18 14773459
    freebsd
    Level 42  
    3echo wrote:
    If I connect the R-20F to the main socket and any power strip (7 sockets), will it be a good protection?

    See what happened to me a month ago: http://jackiewiczowie.blogspot.com/2015/05/r-20f-rozgaeznik-przałepieciowy.html
    According to In my opinion, if you connect low power equipment, up to 500 W, the RF-20F will be great because it is a good surge protector. My R-20F power supply: http://jackiewiczowie.blogspot.com/2013/12/centrum-zarzadzania-swiatem-zasilanie.html looks 100% fine inside. Only the R-20F powering receivers with heaters (such as a dishwasher, washing machine or clothes dryer) could not withstand the load.
  • #19 14773581
    3echo
    Level 15  
    Only electronic equipment (TV, Receiver, DVD) will be connected.
  • #20 14773594
    freebsd
    Level 42  
    Light load.
    I still use them, although as described in the above links, I soldered all cable connections inside the RF-20F. For such a low price, I won't even buy such a nice case, not to mention the interior of this protection. I think very, very few people protect high-power receivers with them :-) .
  • #21 15246060
    Multime
    Level 9  
    I'm coming back to the topic because I need a surge protector for my home again. Earlier, I bought a Belkin F9A402ep2M strip for PLN 70, which has an emi / rfi filter 43 db 300 volt varistors, thermal fuses and 918 J energy absorption.
    I was just looking at what is interesting now on offer and when I was about to buy the Ever Optima strip for PLN 30, which really has nothing interesting in itself, I noticed the Philips P54020 / SPN5044A / 19 strip for PLN 80. It looks like the energy absorption of this strip is 1800 J. Emi / rfi filter 58 db, plus mov protection, that is probably varistors. Such a good strip, is there anything here that I do not understand?
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  • #23 15795213
    3echo
    Level 15  
    @freebsd This RF-20F is against power surges in the network. I don't think it will protect you from lightning. Only removing the plug from the socket?
  • #24 15795321
    freebsd
    Level 42  
    @ 3echo Of course it will protect, or at least reduce the consequences - when the electrical installation is under comprehensive protection, so RF-20F is the T3 protection class. Anyway, what does lightning mean? From a lightning discharge to a lightning rod installation, an element of a building, a nearby tree, a nearby and overhead power grid, a medium voltage network, an RTV antenna, a cable from an intercom, telephone, cable TV?
    Having comprehensive protection does not change the fact that during a storm I disconnect devices by removing plugs from sockets. And I combine this fact with the reliable operation of electronic devices over the years - experience tells me that a power supply not protected by surges of any origin lasts longer.
  • #25 15833686
    3echo
    Level 15  
    I bought 3 pcs. In Castorama for PLN 15 / item
    The question is what do the red and green lights mean?
  • #26 15833906
    freebsd
    Level 42  
    @ 3echo The red lamp indicates the presence of voltage in the splitter sockets, while the green lamp indicates the efficiency of the protective circuit. With very high energy overvoltages, the varistors may be damaged and this condition is indicated by the green lamp not lighting up.
  • #27 15834479
    3echo
    Level 15  
    One of them, when I put it in the socket, blown the fuse on the cage. Later, no lamp on the splitter was on. This copy will go to the complaint.
    And so they exchanged this one for a new one and so far the lamps are lit.
  • #28 15837833
    freebsd
    Level 42  
    I bought mine on Allegro and probably also in Tesco. They had packages and on them a description, including the meaning of the lamps.
    For me, there was only one problem, a serious one: they could not withstand a long-term load of about 2,000 W. Still, I still think it is a good product. I use it, turn it on, turn it off, switch it. After my modifications, I also use high power devices all the time.
  • #29 15838176
    3echo
    Level 15  
    I gave this one to a professional electrician, because I did not want to go to the castorama again and I was curious myself what was inside that it was raining like that.
    I don't know anything about electricity, but he said something about cold solders, and he said that it was better than a cheap strip.
    So he confirmed what you wrote about earlier.
    Worth the price, for PLN 15. there is no better protection than power surges.
  • #30 15854699
    cooltygrysek
    Conditionally unlocked
    Such strips are no security. It can do more harm than good. Most of the equipment is perfectly capable of dealing with momentary surges in voltage. It is better to invest in impulse pin eliminators and installation lightning arresters for rail mounting and put in front of fuses. In any case, installation lightning arresters will in many cases protect the equipment from damage. However, if the discharge goes somewhere close and has high energy, no protection will survive. It is also worth having them.

Topic summary

✨ The discussion centers around recommendations for surge protectors suitable for TVs and gaming consoles. The R-20F model by ELGOTECH is frequently mentioned as a cost-effective option, priced around PLN 17, and noted for its dual varistors and spark gaps, which enhance its protective capabilities. Users express concerns about the adequacy of cheaper models and suggest considering higher-end brands like APC and Belkin for better protection. The Belkin F9A402ep2M is highlighted for its features, including EMI/RFI filtering and thermal fuses. The conversation also touches on the importance of not connecting extension cords to surge protectors, as this can compromise safety. Overall, the consensus is that while budget options exist, investing in quality surge protectors is crucial for safeguarding electronic devices.
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FAQ

TL;DR: A 6-socket surge strip with a 1 000–1 800 J rating can block 95 % of everyday mains spikes; “The R-20F has two varistors and two spark gaps” [Elektroda, freebsd, post #13759962] ELGOTECH R-20F costs only PLN 17 yet equals many PLN 100 units [Elektroda, freebsd, post #13751407]

Why it matters: Picking the right protector saves TVs and consoles from costly outages without overpaying.

Quick Facts

• ELGOTECH R-20F street price: PLN 15–17, 2 × MOV + 2 × spark gaps [Elektroda, #13751407; #13759962] • Belkin F9H400EP2M: 3 × MOV, thermal fuse, 918 J absorption [Elektroda, Multime, post #15246060] • Philips SPN5044A/19: 1 800 J, 58 dB EMI/RFI filter, PLN 80 [Elektroda, 15246060] • Class T3 (formerly D) strips protect against ≤2 kV residual surges; full protection needs B+C devices at the panel [IEC 61643-11] • Safe continuous load for R-20F: ≤500 W; failure reported at 2 000 W [Elektroda, freebsd, post #15837833]

What features should I look for in a surge protector for TVs and gaming consoles?

Choose strips with at least 3 metal-oxide varistors (MOVs), a thermal fuse, EMI/RFI filter >40 dB and a joule rating above 800 J. These parts limit voltage, disconnect during prolonged faults and reduce noise, keeping sensitive HDMI and power-supply inputs safe [Elektroda, Multime, post #15246060]

How much power can the R-20F handle without damage?

Keep continuous loads below 500 W. One unit feeding about 2 000 W overheated and failed, proving the 16 A strip breaker is not enough alone [Elektroda, freebsd, post #15837833]

Does the Belkin F9H400EP2M include MOVs and thermal fuses?

Yes. Czech documentation shows three MOVs, and Polish sources list thermal fuses in series with them [Elektroda, freebsd, #13790770; Multime, #13797924].

Can I attach a regular extension cord to a surge strip?

You can if total load stays low and every plug has earth continuity. Freebsd estimates a TV, laptop, router and console draw ≈540 W—safe for a 16 A-rated Belkin strip [Elektroda, 13815130]

What do the red and green LEDs on ELGOTECH R-20F mean?

Red = mains present. Green = protection OK. If a severe surge destroys MOVs, the green lamp turns off, signalling replacement [Elektroda, freebsd, post #15833906]

Will a surge strip stop lightning damage?

Only partly. Class T3 devices clamp residual energy; direct or nearby strikes still need upstream Class B + C arresters and unplugging during storms [Elektroda, freebsd, post #15795321]

Varistor vs thyristor protection—which reacts faster?

Thyristor crowbar circuits trigger within nanoseconds and force fuses to blow, outperforming MOVs but require manual reset and cost more [Elektroda, cooltygrysek, post #15854789]

Is a higher joule rating always better?

Higher ratings (e.g., 1 800 J Philips SPN5044A) absorb more energy, increasing lifespan. However, component quality and thermal cutoff matter equally; cheap 1 000 J strips with no fuse can still fail early [Philips datasheet].

How do I test if my surge strip still works?

  1. Unplug all loads.
  2. Check that the protection LED lights when you restart power.
  3. Press the strip’s reset/breaker; if the LED stays dark, replace the unit. Total time: under 30 seconds [Elektroda, 15833906]

Are ‘anti-surge’ power bars without earth pins effective?

No. MOVs divert excess energy to earth; without a reliable ground, voltage stays on the line, leaving devices exposed [IEEE Std 1100-2005].

Edge case: what if a new protector trips house fuses instantly?

Return or open it. One R-20F shorted on first use because of cold solder joints; Castorama exchanged it under warranty [Elektroda, 3echo, post #15834479]
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