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Extracting Broken Bolt from Tap-Pipe Connection Without Damaging Tiles

pawel_kk 72732 18
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  • #1 13823847
    pawel_kk
    Level 10  
    Hello!
    First of all, I'm very sorry if this is the wrong place for such a topic, but I couldn't find anything about the hydraulics themselves. If so, please feel free to repost.

    Secondly, I have a huge problem, the whole tap above the bath has broken off and 2 screw ends are left in the pipes in the wall (I don't know what these adapters are expertly called).
    Maybe someone has an idea how to unscrew this without destroying the tiles at the same time?

    Below are the photos

    Extracting Broken Bolt from Tap-Pipe Connection Without Damaging Tiles Extracting Broken Bolt from Tap-Pipe Connection Without Damaging Tiles Extracting Broken Bolt from Tap-Pipe Connection Without Damaging Tiles Extracting Broken Bolt from Tap-Pipe Connection Without Damaging Tiles
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  • #2 13824308
    bobanr
    Level 14  
    You cannot see very well, but if a part of the pipe remaining in the wall has an internal thread, you should screw the eccentric connectors and the tap into this thread.

    On the other hand, if there are parts of the eccentric connection left in the wall, it is only a widening of the hole and an attempt to unscrew them with a frog.
  • #3 13824433
    pawel_kk
    Level 10  
    bobanr wrote:
    You cannot see very well, but if a part of the pipe remaining in the wall has an internal thread, you should screw the eccentric connectors and the tap into this thread.

    On the other hand, if there are parts of the eccentric connection left in the wall, it is only a widening of the hole and an attempt to unscrew them with a frog.


    well, part of this connection was left in the middle (thank you, finally I know what this part is called :) ) I read on other forums and someone advised threading, screwing the screw with glue and then unscrewing the whole thing.

    someone will confirm?
  • #4 13824961
    zimny8
    Level 33  
    Nonsense, first "punch" the best-fitted "sharp" flat bar inside and turn left, if it does not go, the thin saw blade in your hand and cut the remaining part of the eccentric, then try like point one.
    Even if you damage the thread in the fitting a little, nothing will happen, the tow and grease will prevent leaks.
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  • #5 18246052
    jurandot
    Level 1  
    Hello, I have to unscrew the broken eccentric with a file (semicircular with sharp edges). You have to stick and unscrew the Frenchman close to the wall, not to break the file on the occasion. Thanks for the previous replies
  • #6 18250673
    wiesiekmisiek
    Level 33  
    Now buy stronger (they will be more expensive but will last for ages) cams. After winding with linen tow, it is best to use a special UNIPAK paste. It never dries out and can always be unscrewed. Do not use any lubricant as advised above. Also, don't go the easy way and don't use Teflon tape or Teflon thread. On Teflon, you can not move back on the thread and setting the cams in the right position for mounting the battery is a bit of a challenge for a beginner because you need to set it to the width of the mounting, and also horizontally.
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  • #7 18253710
    andrzej lukaszewicz
    Level 42  
    wiesiekmisiek wrote:
    It never dries out and can always be unscrewed.

    It dries up, dries up. Gebout paste is much better than unipak, it dries up much later.
  • #8 18418990
    AdiBielo
    Level 11  
    Hello, I have the same problem as my colleague, and maybe even worse, because when I tried to replace the battery, the cam completely broke. The building is already 40 years old, so is the rust itself and nothing else. But a slightly different question - are there any substances that will help me "start" this eccentric (WD40?), Because it burned like a wild boar, since it broke when I tried to twist it (because the old battery was literally 3 mm narrower, so I could use new on old cams and have peace of mind ...)
    Extracting Broken Bolt from Tap-Pipe Connection Without Damaging Tiles
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  • #9 18419012
    bratHanki
    Level 39  
    For example Würth Rost-Of or Rost-Of Plus either FÖRCH Turbokraft-Rostlöser. Inexpensive and effective. Automotive stores.
  • #10 18419041
    AdiBielo
    Level 11  
    I tried to find something to stick in and there is a problem ... there is a knee in the wall right away, so it's quite shallow unfortunately.
    If I tried to saw it with a saw blade and break it piece by piece, I will probably damage the thread and leakage?

    Added after 3 [minutes]:

    Oh - and the question is, will WD40 do something here? Because I have it at hand, and I would have to buy something else.
  • #11 18419086
    REMUR.
    Level 27  
    Extractors can be used.

    Extracting Broken Bolt from Tap-Pipe Connection Without Damaging Tiles
  • #12 18419195
    Aleksander_01
    Level 43  
    It is best to take a propane-butane burner and burn the tow from the thread (if you have plastic pipes inside, you need to do it very skillfully). I had the same, but it did not break, it just broke and the water was dripping. If you have metal pipes in your wall, treat it with a burner without fear. When you burn the tow, you literally twist the inner element with your hands.
  • #13 18419308
    palmus
    Level 34  
    Sometimes you can count on the tiler's fluff. If it makes a hollow noise after tapping, you can remove the tile after cutting the grout. Then, kick your soul and heavy equipment :) I did so once.
  • #14 18419534
    AdiBielo
    Level 11  
    As I wrote earlier - the building is literally 40 years old. At that time, no plastic pipes were known yet, and tile adhesives were as solid as concrete (in fact, it was probably even concrete). In a word, you can burn as much as possible, and it will not be possible to remove the tiles
  • #15 18422429
    Xaveri
    Level 17  
    I have fought with a problem like yours 2 or 3 times in my life. Always the same method - I cut lengthwise what was left in the muff in 1 or 2 places (depending on whether it was brass or steel) and then hammered a flat screwdriver or something similar into the gap between the parts. The residue either curled inside (brass) or fell out. What was left (usually a larger piece) I treated WD40 and twisted by beating in the right direction.
  • #16 18422489
    AdiBielo
    Level 11  
    Xaveri wrote:
    I have fought with a problem like yours 2 or 3 times in my life. Always the same method - I cut lengthwise what was left in the muff in 1 or 2 places (depending on whether it was brass or steel) and then hammered a flat screwdriver or something similar into the gap between the parts. The residue either curled inside (brass) or fell out. What was left (usually a larger piece) I treated WD40 and twisted by beating in the right direction.

    And this is exactly how the problem was solved - incised with a specially crafted saw blade (because I did not have a narrow one, so the wide one was treated with a square in half in a piece), then punching with a chisel, which broke the entire element and the largest piece, about half, could be pulled out in principle without the hassle of pliers. Anyway, everything is already working :)
  • #17 20393614
    ks8zmc
    Level 1  
    Extracting Broken Bolt from Tap-Pipe Connection Without Damaging Tiles Extracting Broken Bolt from Tap-Pipe Connection Without Damaging Tiles Extracting Broken Bolt from Tap-Pipe Connection Without Damaging Tiles
    Hello, in the pictures you can see tools, thanks to which you can easily unscrew a broken thread from a pipe. We got it fast. Good luck to others. Regards
  • #18 21438273
    almostermudi
    Level 1  
    Gentlemen... Two flat spanners, as if you were trying to pull the padlock apart, and you twist. It comes out, but very hard.
  • #19 21815692
    md73
    Level 1  
    The file works great 🙂 I just replaced the bathtub faucet 🙂 I sprayed WD-40 beforehand... I don't know if it helped, but it certainly didn't hurt.
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Topic summary

The discussion addresses the challenge of removing broken eccentric connectors (cam fittings) or screw remnants from tap-pipe connections embedded in bathroom walls without damaging surrounding tiles. Key solutions include attempting to unscrew remaining threaded parts by inserting a sharp flat bar or using a thin saw blade to cut the eccentric connector lengthwise, followed by levering with a chisel or flat screwdriver to loosen and extract the pieces. Applying penetrating rust removers such as Würth Rost-Of, Rost-Of Plus, or FÖRCH Turbokraft-Rostlöser is recommended to ease loosening of rusted parts; WD40 may help but is less effective. Heating the joint with a propane-butane burner to burn off sealing tow can facilitate manual twisting, especially with metal pipes. Use of extractors designed for broken bolts is also suggested. For reassembly, stronger cams with linen tow and UNIPAK paste (which remains pliable and allows future unscrewing) are preferred over Teflon tape or lubricants. In older buildings with concrete-like tile adhesives, tile removal is difficult and generally avoided. The consensus favors mechanical cutting and levering combined with chemical rust treatment to remove broken fittings while preserving tile integrity.
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