Extracting Broken Bolt from Tap-Pipe Connection Without Damaging Tiles

Question

Hello!
First of all, sorry if this is a bad place on the subject, but I couldn't find anything on the plumbing itself. If so, please do so.

Secondly. I have a huge problem, the whole tap over the bath broke and 2 screw ends remained in the pipes in the wall (I do not know what these adapters are professionally called)
Maybe someone has any idea how to twist it without destroying the tile at the same time?

below photos

bobanr · Answer

You cannot see very well, but if a part of the pipe remaining in the wall has an internal thread, you should screw the eccentric connectors and the tap into this thread.

On the other hand, if there are parts of the eccentric connection left in the wall, it is only a widening of the hole and an attempt to unscrew them with a frog.

pawel_kk · Answer

well, part of this connection was left in the middle (thank you, finally I know what this part is called ) I read on other forums and someone advised threading, screwing the screw with glue and then unscrewing the whole thing. someone will confirm?

zimny8 · Answer

Nonsense, first punch the best-fitted sharp flat bar inside and turn left, if it does not go, the thin saw blade in your hand and cut the remaining part of the eccentric, then try like point one. Even if you damage the thread in the fitting a little, nothing will happen, the tow and grease will prevent leaks.

jurandot · Answer

Hello, I have to unscrew the broken eccentric with a file (semicircular with sharp edges). You have to stick and unscrew the Frenchman close to the wall, not to break the file on the occasion. Thanks for the previous replies

wiesiekmisiek · Answer

Now buy stronger (they will be more expensive but will last for ages) cams. After winding with linen tow, it is best to use a special UNIPAK paste. It never dries out and can always be unscrewed. Do not use any lubricant as advised above. Also, don't go the easy way and don't use Teflon tape or Teflon thread. On Teflon, you can not move back on the thread and setting the cams in the right position for mounting the battery is a bit of a challenge for a beginner because you need to set it to the width of the mounting, and also horizontally.

andrzej lukaszewicz · Answer

It dries up, dries up. Gebout paste is much better than unipak, it dries up much later.

AdiBielo · Answer

Hello, I have the same problem as my colleague, and maybe even worse, because when I tried to replace the battery, the cam completely broke. The building is already 40 years old, so is the rust itself and nothing else. But a slightly different question - are there any substances that will help me "start" this eccentric (WD40?), Because it burned like a wild boar, since it broke when I tried to twist it (because the old battery was literally 3 mm narrower, so I could use new on old cams and have peace of mind ...)

bratHanki · Answer

For example Würth Rost-Of or Rost-Of Plus either FÖRCH Turbokraft-Rostlöser. Inexpensive and effective. Automotive stores.

AdiBielo · Answer

I tried to find something to stick in and there is a problem ... there is a knee in the wall right away, so it's quite shallow unfortunately.
If I tried to saw it with a saw blade and break it piece by piece, I will probably damage the thread and leakage?

Added after 3 [minutes]:

Oh - and the question is, will WD40 do something here? Because I have it at hand, and I would have to buy something else.

REMUR. · Answer

Extractors can be used.

Aleksander_01 · Answer

It is best to take a propane-butane burner and burn the tow from the thread (if you have plastic pipes inside, you need to do it very skillfully). I had the same, but it did not break, it just broke and the water was dripping. If you have metal pipes in your wall, treat it with a burner without fear. When you burn the tow, you literally twist the inner element with your hands.

palmus · Answer

Sometimes you can count on the tiler's fluff. If it makes a hollow noise after tapping, you can remove the tile after cutting the grout. Then, kick your soul and heavy equipment I did so once.

AdiBielo · Answer

As I wrote earlier - the building is literally 40 years old. At that time, no plastic pipes were known yet, and tile adhesives were as solid as concrete (in fact, it was probably even concrete). In a word, you can burn as much as possible, and it will not be possible to remove the tiles

Xaveri · Answer

I have fought with a problem like yours 2 or 3 times in my life. Always the same method - I cut lengthwise what was left in the muff in 1 or 2 places (depending on whether it was brass or steel) and then hammered a flat screwdriver or something similar into the gap between the parts. The residue either curled inside (brass) or fell out. What was left (usually a larger piece) I treated WD40 and twisted by beating in the right direction.

AdiBielo · Answer

And this is exactly how the problem was solved - incised with a specially crafted saw blade (because I did not have a narrow one, so the wide one was treated with a square in half in a piece), then punching with a chisel, which broke the entire element and the largest piece, about half, could be pulled out in principle without the hassle of pliers. Anyway, everything is already working

ks8zmc · Answer

Hello, in the pictures you can see tools, thanks to which you can easily unscrew a broken thread from a pipe. We got it fast. Good luck to others. Regards

almostermudi · Answer

Gentlemen... Two flat spanners, as if you were trying to pull the padlock apart, and you twist. It comes out, but very hard.

Extracting Broken Bolt from Tap-Pipe Connection Without Damaging Tiles

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