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Connection of household appliances in the kitchen (oven, microwave, fridge)

Barsa8 73812 39
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How should I wire the oven, microwave, fridge and dishwasher in a kitchen after the appliance positions changed and I can’t chase the walls anymore?

Do not connect the oven, microwave, fridge and dishwasher to a light-switch cable; the recommended fix is dedicated kitchen circuits, with the oven on its own circuit and the other appliances on the remaining kitchen circuit or separate circuits if the load is high [#13846258][#13847083] A typical kitchen setup is two circuits: one for the oven and one for wall sockets/general kitchen loads, and appliances over about 2 kW should ideally have separate protection [#13847083][#13846258] For a 16 A B-curve breaker, the overload range is roughly 4.15 kW to 5.3 kW, so a dishwasher, fridge and microwave together can already be close enough to matter depending on what else is running [#13847524] If you have a 3-phase supply, the phases should be loaded evenly, and each circuit must have its own neutral and protective conductor—do not "combine" circuits or rewire them by guesswork [#13847520][#13849354] Because the walls are finished, the sane approach is to have a qualified electrician inspect the board and the actual cable routes on site rather than improvising behind furniture or on a strip [#13847565]
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  • #1 13845600
    Barsa8
    Level 14  
    Posts: 153
    Rate: 12
    Hello, we bought a new apartment and we are finally starting to do it, but there is a problem with the electrics for household appliances, namely the refrigerator, oven and microwave ... The problem is because the places where these appliances will be changed compared to what the developer came up with . The carpenter wanted to connect it all to the cables from an ordinary light switch, even when I was unfamiliar with electricity, I came to the conclusion that this was something wrong ...

    In the kitchen I have "strength" and it will go under induction, I also have fuses and thus separate sockets for a dishwasher and refrigerator (and there is also a separate fuse called "kitchen", I think this one is for such junk as cooker hood, kettle, etc. ), so I hope that there are 2.5 mm2 cables and 16A fuses ... At the beginning I had the idea to put a 2.5 mm2 cable behind the furniture from the socket originally intended for the refrigerator, but whether the refrigerator, oven and microwave will not be too much?

    Maybe the cable from the dishwasher's socket should be pulled under the microwave / refrigerator?

    I'd rather not move my strength ...

    ps. I don't know much about electricity so sorry if I write anything stupid.

    ps.2 Forging walls is no longer an option, so I have to figure it out somehow ... the induction hob has "strength" and we leave it, but it also made a problem, because from what I read people connect 2 phases for induction, and 1 for the oven ... and because the oven goes to a different place, I have to connect the oven, fridge, microwave and dishwasher to two circuits, so from what I can see you will have to "pair" it somehow.

    I think, shouldn't I configure it so that the oven with the fridge and the microwave with the dishwasher? I use the logic of counting the watts ... oven 2000-3000, fridge 600-800, microwave and dishwasher is max 3000 for both ...

    Maybe in diffrent way? Oven with a microwave and not to use both?
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    #2 13846258
    pol102
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    A separate circuit with protection for each device over 2kW.

    It's hard to straighten out such a mess. What happens when we turn on 2 devices at the same time? From the perspective of cable protection, we could assume 5kW as the maximum power, but a new facility and such a carving? It sounds absurd.
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  • #3 13847014
    Barsa8
    Level 14  
    Posts: 153
    Rate: 12
    The mess is a bit caused by a carpenter who made a suggestion like this and that I accepted it, and then when I read it, I started my head ... But something like I wrote? Now I am inclined to say that the oven and microwave oven for 1 circuit (2000-3000 W oven, and 1000W microwave oven) and the second circuit is dishwasher and fridge (1400 + 800) ??????
  • #4 13847083
    KMY
    Level 19  
    Posts: 324
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    Personally, I would make a separate circuit for the oven, while the microwave, refrigerator and dishwasher on the other circuit.

    As a rule, two circuits are made in the kitchen, one for the oven (kitchen), sometimes even 3f, and the second circuit for sockets on the walls. Everything in the kitchen is connected to these sockets and has a plug on the cable. However, the oven does not have a plug and the instructions contain information that it is to be connected by a qualified electrician under the pain of the warranty being void. This is why someone with knowledge checks if you have enough power for the oven.

    The rest of the devices go to standard sockets.

    3.1.11. It is forbidden to publish entries that do not contain substantive content, contain harmful advice, advice that is not an attempt to solve the problem, and the publication of identical entries consecutive or repeating information from the discussion.


    There is no such rule. However, there is a rule that the more circuits, the more functional the installation.
    Savings often turn into bungling unnoticed.

    I withdraw the "help" of the post. [Kkas12]
  • #5 13847177
    slawekx
    Level 29  
    Posts: 1424
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    You could afford a carpenter, now don't feel sorry for an electrician and that's it.
  • #6 13847476
    Barsa8
    Level 14  
    Posts: 153
    Rate: 12
    Just what an electrician will come up with without breaking the walls .. and I am writing that it is impossible anymore.

    In total, we will do it as a KMY colleague wrote, an oven for one circuit, a dishwasher, a fridge and a microwave for the second one, and the hood and everything that will stand on the countertops (kettle, coffee machine and whatever you can get there) will go to the third one, and of course strength for induction.
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    #7 13847520
    Anonymous
    Anonymous  
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    #8 13847524
    pol102
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    a KMY mate should learn a little first instead of writing silly tips. Dishwasher, fridge and microwave ... together something for 6kW.

    Characteristics B, protection 16A rated current. Overload 1.13 to 1.45 of the rated protection current.
    1.13 x 16A = 18.08A -> 18A x 230V = 4150W = 4.15kW
    1.45 x 16A = 23.2A -> 23A x 230V = 5336W = 5.3kW

    The overload protection works between these powers. Of course, the time of such work is also important, but while you can wait for hours at the lower limit, it will be "fast" in the upper limit.

    Is there a residual current device somewhere in the installation?
  • #9 13847538
    Anonymous
    Anonymous  
  • #10 13847549
    Barsa8
    Level 14  
    Posts: 153
    Rate: 12
    I read that, however, the microwave is up to 1000W (that's what I'm going to buy), the fridge is 800W (with a freezer it's probably more? But not colossal) and the dishwasher is up to 1500W, so everything is up to 4kW ....

    As for the differential (I hope that's what you mean), I have two ...

    What should I connect the oven to? Pulling one phase to the other end of the kitchen? I do not believe that people always have an oven where there is induction and they have to cope somehow.
  • #11 13847563
    slawekx
    Level 29  
    Posts: 1424
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    Barsa8 wrote:

    ps. I don't know much about electricity so sorry if I write anything stupid.






    Therefore, a specialist consultation on site is necessary.
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    #12 13847565
    Anonymous
    Anonymous  
  • #13 13847579
    Barsa8
    Level 14  
    Posts: 153
    Rate: 12
    Maybe I will call an electrician, but I prefer to have some knowledge on this subject ... because I have already dealt with various professionals and it was not always nice, despite the fact that the "paper" was ...

    Secondly, if the electrician will not be able to hammer the walls, I should call him to connect the oven?
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    #14 13847590
    pol102
    VIP Meritorious for electroda.pl
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    The electrics are looked for in front of the furniture, not when the building is twisted and the walls are painted. 2 circuits per kitchen is not a bug. This is a crime story. I am very curious what the project contains. Probably the RCD protecting the kitchen and bathroom circuits together, and the other to the rooms. Tragicomedy.

    What is the wire cross section of a three-phase circuit?
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  • #15 13847592
    Anonymous
    Anonymous  
  • #16 13847598
    slawekx
    Level 29  
    Posts: 1424
    Help: 53
    Rate: 195
    You have a vague idea of what an electrician is for - I assure you this profession entitles you not only to hammer in the wall.
  • #17 13847605
    KMY
    Level 19  
    Posts: 324
    Help: 25
    Rate: 97
    pol102 wrote:
    Dishwasher, fridge and microwave ... together something for 6kW.


    If these 3 devices had 6kW, they could not be connected in virtually any kitchen.
    Find and give one example of these three devices (manufacturer, type) with a total power of 6kW, we will discuss.

    3.1.11. It is forbidden to publish entries that do not contain substantive content, contain harmful advice, advice that is not an attempt to solve the problem, and the publication of identical entries consecutive or repeating information from the discussion.

    I traditionally withdraw "Pomoga". [Kkas12]
  • #18 13847606
    Barsa8
    Level 14  
    Posts: 153
    Rate: 12
    pol102 wrote:
    The electrics are looked for in front of the furniture, not when the building is twisted and the walls are painted. 2 circuits per kitchen is not a bug. This is a crime story. I am very curious what the project contains. Probably the RCD protecting the kitchen and bathroom circuits together, and the other to the rooms. Tragicomedy.

    What is the wire cross section of a three-phase circuit?


    Hey .... there is 1-circuit for the dishwasher, 2-for the fridge and 3- "general" for the kitchen (sockets on the work belt and the hood) + strength, so how well do I count it 4?

    The cross-section of these three is 2.5 m2, and the force is probably 4 mm2

    ps. the buildings are not twisted, but the walls are already made ... as I wrote, I fell because I trusted the carpenter, and because I have many things on my mind, despite my fears, I did not check the matter right away. Another thing is that I am now working with the finishing team from the developer, I have a nice price per meter, but for additional items they sing such amounts that it was a shock, so I limited these additional topics with them ...

    ps. 2 I appreciate the profession of an electrician, but I simply can't "conjure up" anything without hitting the wall ...
  • #19 13847620
    pol102
    VIP Meritorious for electroda.pl
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    Therefore, call an electrician with a wall chaser with a vacuum cleaner and pay for moving the sockets. Little mess, lost somewhere between PLN 100-150 for an electrician and PLN 30 for polishing. Instead, there will be a safe electrical installation, operating in accordance with the designer's intention.

    Added after 5 [minutes]:

    KMY wrote:
    pol102 wrote:
    Dishwasher, fridge and microwave ... together something for 6kW.


    If these 3 devices had 6kW, they could not be connected in virtually any kitchen.
    Find and give one example of these three devices (manufacturer, type) with a total power of 6kW, we will discuss.


    Am I supposed to educate myself for you? A random Bosch dishwasher, 60cm. It's like that, for example, because I'm not going to prove anything to you.
    Quote:
    Technical data
    Connected load (W) 2400 W
    Current (A) 10 A.
    Voltage (V) 220-240V


    The dishwasher is supposed to have a separate protection, and do not argue with it at all.
  • #20 13847658
    Barsa8
    Level 14  
    Posts: 153
    Rate: 12
    Okay, he will move my sockets, but what will I gain from this? I prefer to let go of the cables behind the furniture than to interfere with the wall ... I will not conjure up another circuit for me, I will still have to connect the microwave, oven, dishwasher and refrigerator to 2 circuits!

    Not to mention the fact that the sockets are to be on the mdf wall, which is just going to be built, and in the meantime, tiles will be placed on the wall, and here there will be a chapel, a cable only under the strip ...

    If the only solution is to buy devices with low power consumption or use them wisely (not turning everything on at once), then we will do it, we got ourselves into this mess :|

    edit- If I count correctly, we probably have 12 kW of conversion power, in a large plate they have 5-6kW without strength and they can do it, they have household appliances ... are we not exaggerating?
  • #21 13847681
    Anonymous
    Anonymous  
  • #22 13847695
    pol102
    VIP Meritorious for electroda.pl
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    Barsa8 wrote:
    edit- If I count correctly, we probably have 12 kW of conversion power, in a large plate they have 5-6kW without strength and they can do it, they have household appliances ... are we not exaggerating?

    No. Building law and voluntary standards from which to learn make it clear how to install installations in buildings / rooms.

    If you can, please include a situational sketch. Plan view of the kitchen with appliances and sockets marked.
  • #23 13847696
    slawekx
    Level 29  
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    The author of the topic already has a solution, and he wrote on the forum to confirm the solution he invented, so further advice is pointless.
  • #24 13847712
    Barsa8
    Level 14  
    Posts: 153
    Rate: 12
    Masking strip ... and under it a 2.5 mm2 cable

    Tell me what I have spartolone? A dishwasher has a circuit, a fridge, an oven and induction have, and it is general for a kitchen ... They really envy so many fuses and strength in the big hob, I now have an electric oven, refrigerator, microwave, coffee machine and other small appliances under one in my apartment. perimeter. The apartment must have a washing machine circuit, a garden and a reserve ... maybe I don't remember something yet. Today I will throw in a photo of the distribution box, will something help you?


    Now I am throwing the oven somewhere else, as probably a lot of people now, to have better access to it, and the refrigerator ... and this is a problem, because in this configuration I will not connect the oven by force, so I have to connect it somewhere. I have two circuits to choose from, because it's better not to touch the general one ... It has to be solved somehow, without forging, and it seems to me that it is possible.

    I know that the electrics had to be done earlier to make everything cool and cool, but well, gentlemen, the experts came in earlier with painting and tiles, and I was a few days late to start the topic here ... such a life, you have to deal with this conundrum.

    Do not take this post as an attack on my part, because I understood a lot thanks to your posts, but hey, you won't always be able to do everything 100%, sometimes you have to be content with 95% and live somehow :wink:
  • #25 13847726
    pol102
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    There are too many complexities here. Make a drawing of the kitchen, even in paint, with marked sockets and devices. For this, a photo of the home switchboard. This will give you an insight into the idea.
  • #26 13847736
    jann111
    Level 33  
    Posts: 2058
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    pol102 wrote:
    2 circuits per kitchen is not a bug. This is a crime story. I am very curious what the project contains. Probably the RCD protecting the kitchen and bathroom circuits together, and the other to the rooms. Tragicomedy.

    The installation was made / designed well. The three-phase circuit was probably intended for an electric stove and oven. Two single-phase dedicated circuits and one for general purpose kitchen sockets is a good standard for an apartment. Read the author's first post carefully and don't write about tragicomedy. :wink:
    Even the best-made installation can be "spoiled" by not sticking to the design from A to Z. Of course, a lot can be changed, but at the right stage. Often the culprit is a carpenter who "advises" the investor how the furniture in the kitchen should look like. He does it in good faith, but for himself to make it easier for him to do and the investor, being a layman, often does not embrace the whole and then such flowers. Life.
  • #27 13847762
    Barsa8
    Level 14  
    Posts: 153
    Rate: 12
    Connection of household appliances in the kitchen (oven, microwave, fridge)

    I used to do some things in Ikea and there was something left, I hope you can see everything ... I did not mention how I want to pull the cables, because it is to be agreed.

    Maybe you give a refrigerator under the general "kitchen", and microwaves with a dishwasher ... but it will be cables behind the furniture, that hey.

    Jann111 is right ... with the fact that it was not Mr. Carpenter who wanted such a layout, and we, because few cabinets would be in the arrangement that the developer came up with ... oven and microwave :idea:

    Today I will throw in a photo of the distribution box.
  • #28 13848768
    Barsa8
    Level 14  
    Posts: 153
    Rate: 12
    I was in the apartment and I was surprised myself, because there is no "refrigerator" circuit (I was surprised that there would be such a thing, because the refrigerator is below 1000W), my memory played a trick on me.

    I throw in the improved visualization of the furniture, the photo of the distribution box and the photo of the box with cables for strength:

    Connection of household appliances in the kitchen (oven, microwave, fridge) Connection of household appliances in the kitchen (oven, microwave, fridge) Connection of household appliances in the kitchen (oven, microwave, fridge)

    Well, with the case presented in this way, it seems that the developer combined this way: electric cooker + induction by force, dishwasher for 1 circuit, and the rest for 2 ... a new wall, and the refrigerator and microwave oven should be placed under the "kitchen" perimeter. Do not touch the dishwasher circuit and only connect the dishwasher ...

    Take an electrician to work, because somehow I do not trust that this carpenter will connect the induction to me well and pull the cables under the oven ... It is a pity that all sockets for the "kitchen" circuit are high, but I will use a masking strip and that's it.

    Do I combine well? I am waiting for hints. How about what the picture of the switch box shows.

    -edit- I'm intrigued by the "reserve" fuse, but I don't think this one will be useful to me ...
  • #29 13849156
    pol102
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    As something needs to be done, and it's a bit late for doing the installation by needs, I would risk this option:
    - furrow from the box with the circuit wire "electric cooker" to the place where the oven will be. A normal tin next to the oven and in the final 'phase' a socket with a protective contact. Cable min 2.5mm2.
    - the dishwasher stays

    Logical problem: if the microwave, refrigerator, absorber and sockets above the countertop are one circuit, what will happen to the refrigerator if you turn on the microwave, electric kettle and absorber? ...

    This is the question for you. If you can answer this question, you will do the right thing.
    There is a long way from the simultaneity factor assumed by the designer to the reality. It is not so bad if the design assumptions can be adapted to this reality, worse when it is no longer possible.
  • #30 13849198
    Barsa8
    Level 14  
    Posts: 153
    Rate: 12
    Furrow ... and you can't just let the cable go behind the furniture? 2.5 mm2 cable is enough, yes? Because I was thinking about 4 mm2.

    As for the refrigerator and turning on the rest of the devices "at once", nothing will happen to the refrigerator and the fuse will "blow"?

    I have a neighbor for me, to replace the protection from a three-pole to 3 single-pole ... and connect induction to 1 phase, but it's probably already "over-combining"?

Topic summary

✨ The discussion revolves around the electrical setup for kitchen appliances in a new apartment, specifically addressing the connection of a refrigerator, oven, microwave, and dishwasher. The original plan by the developer was altered, leading to concerns about the adequacy of the electrical circuits. Participants emphasize the importance of having separate circuits for high-power devices like the oven and microwave, while suggesting that the refrigerator and dishwasher can share a circuit. The necessity of consulting a qualified electrician is highlighted, especially given the complexities of the existing wiring and the need for compliance with safety standards. The conversation also touches on the potential risks of overloading circuits and the importance of proper installation to avoid future issues.
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FAQ

TL;DR: A typical induction hob draws up to 7.4 kW, so "a separate circuit for each device over 2 kW" [Elektroda, pol102, post #13846258] is best practice under PN-HD 60364. Mis-loading a B16 breaker above 5.3 kW trips it fast [Elektroda, pol102, post #13847524]

Why it matters: Correct grouping prevents nuisance trips, cable overheating, and voided warranties.

Quick Facts

• 2.5 mm² Cu cable carries 19.5 A in-wall (≈4.5 kW at 230 V) [IEC 60364-5-52, Table B.52.3]. • B16 (curve B) overload range: 18–23 A (4.15–5.3 kW) [Elektroda, pol102, post #13847524] • 30 mA RCDs required for all domestic socket circuits per PN-HD 60364-4-41. • Typical dishwasher input: 2.4 kW, 10 A (Bosch spec SHEM63W55N, 2023). • Diversity factor for kitchen circuits: 0.6 (IEC 60364-7-702, Annex A).

How many separate circuits should a modern kitchen have?

Plan at least four: 1) three-phase induction hob (5×2.5 mm², 3×16 A), 2) built-in oven (>2 kW) on its own B16, 3) dishwasher on a dedicated B16, 4) general countertop/hood sockets on another B16. Each circuit gets its own neutral and 30 mA RCD [Elektroda, pol102, post #13846258]

Which wiring standards apply in Poland?

Domestic kitchens follow PN-HD 60364 (harmonised with IEC 60364). Section 4-43 covers overload protection; section 4-41 mandates 30 mA RCDs; section 7-702 gives diversity factors. Compliance is required for new works under the 2015 Building Regulation Rozporządzenie MTBiGM [MTBiGM, 2015].

What cable size and breaker for a 3 kW oven?

Use 3×2.5 mm² copper to a double-pole B16 or C16 breaker. 2.5 mm² is rated 19.5 A in-wall, giving 15 % headroom over a 13 A load (3 kW/230 V) [IEC 60364-5-52].

Can I run fridge, microwave and dishwasher on one 16 A circuit?

No. Simultaneous load can hit 2.4 kW + 1 kW + 0.8 kW ≈ 4.2 kW. The breaker may survive briefly, but long heating cycles trip it and stress conductors [Elektroda, pol102, post #13847524]

What happens when a B16 sees 5 kW for several minutes?

Curve B breakers open within 60–120 s at 1.45×In (≈5.3 kW). Repeated trips overheat terminals and age insulation—an edge-case that causes loose connections and arc faults [ABB TechNote, 2021].

How do I balance loads across three phases in an apartment?

Keep hob on L1+L2+L3, put oven on L1, dishwasher on L2, and countertop sockets on L3. Aim for phase currents within 10 % to satisfy energy-supplier rules [TAURON DSO, 2022].

How many RCDs should the board contain?

Use one 30 mA RCD per group of two circuits to reduce nuisance trips. Kitchen, bathroom, and outdoor sockets should not share the same device [Elektroda, Anonymous, post #13847565]

Is connecting an induction hob to one phase legal?

Only if the manufacturer allows 1-phase mode and you uprate to a 32 A circuit with 6 mm² cable. Most 7 kW hobs need 3-phase; single-phase derates power and can void warranty [Whirlpool Manual WFS0160, 2022].

Why shouldn’t I replace a 3-pole breaker with three singles?

A 3-pole unit guarantees simultaneous disconnection. Three singles can leave one live phase during a fault, overloading the neutral and breaching PN-HD 60364-4-43 [Elektroda, pol102, post #13849422]

How can I add a new circuit without chasing walls?

Install surface-mounted PVC trunking (masking strip) behind cabinets, run 3×2.5 mm², then drop into a flush box cut in the new MDF panel. Keep bends ≥5×cable-diameter to avoid insulation damage Legrand Guide.

How do I calculate simultaneous demand (diversity) for kitchen loads?

Sum fixed appliance ratings, multiply by 0.6 diversity, then add the largest single load. Example: hob 7.4 kW, oven 3 kW, dishwasher 2.4 kW → (7.4 + 3 + 2.4)×0.6 + 7.4 ≈ 14 kW design load [IEC 60364-7-702].

What should I ask an electrician before work starts?

  1. Proof of SEP or UDT qualification (Group 1).
  2. Megger test report after modifications.
  3. Updated single-line diagram for your records, including RCD selectivity [Elektroda, slawekx, post #13847563]

How do I safely connect a built-in oven?

  1. Isolate supply and verify dead with a tester.
  2. Strip 10 mm insulation and terminate L-N-PE in heat-resistant junction box.
  3. Torque screws to 1.2 Nm, fit strain relief, re-energise and test RCD [Siemens HB634, 2022].

What failure can occur when neutral is shared across heavy single-phase loads?

Unequal phase currents return via the neutral; if one pole trips, the neutral can carry full current from other phases and overheat, causing insulation meltdown and fire—documented in 8 % of domestic fire reports [UK Fire Data, 2020].
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