logo elektroda
logo elektroda
X
logo elektroda
Advanced Search
logo elektroda

[Solved] Circuit Separation: Induction Hob & Oven on 3F (5x4mm²), RCD & 16A Breakers, Dishwasher & Fridge

Tomotron 19059 13
ADVERTISEMENT
Treść została przetłumaczona polish » english Zobacz oryginalną wersję tematu
Report a violation of the law
| New topic
  • #1 17294302
    Tomotron
    Level 13  
    Hello,

    New electrical installation, an electrician came up with the idea that there would be a dishwasher, refrigerator, oven and hood on one circuit.

    Walls, floors finished, it is not possible to run an additional circuit for e.g. an oven

    Will it be a good idea to separate the 3F circuit (5x4mm2) which is intended for connecting the induction hob (connected to 2F) Use the free phase to connect the oven.

    Currently induction hob connected by RCD and 16A three-pole overcurrent circuit breaker.
    I plan to leave the RCD due to the oven and power the board through a 16A double pole circuit breaker and the oven single pole 16A
  • ADVERTISEMENT
  • #2 17294421
    Anonymous
    Level 1  
  • ADVERTISEMENT
  • #3 17294452
    Tomotron
    Level 13  
    Kraniec_Internetów wrote:

    The oven MUST be on a separate circuit. To be more precise, the standard states that stationary devices with a power of 2.kW or more must be powered from separate circuits.


    Thanks for the answer, is there any other sensible solution in this situation?
    Not to mention the fact that he won't give up the oven, and the demolition of half the apartment is also out of the question.
  • ADVERTISEMENT
  • #4 17294716
    Zbigniew 400
    Level 38  
    Very often I meet in new blocks with energy supply to the hob and oven sets 1 with a 5 X4 cable.
  • #5 17294743
    Anonymous
    Level 1  
  • #6 17294754
    mawerix123
    Level 39  
    Tomotron wrote:
    Thanks for the reply, is there any other sensible solution in this situation?
    Not to mention the fact that he won't give up the oven, and the demolition of half the apartment is also out of the question.


    In fact, you're missing at least 3 circuits in the kitchen.
    Dishwasher, oven, utility sockets and maybe even a microwave oven.
    Or maybe half-measures again this and that with that and somehow it will be ...
  • ADVERTISEMENT
  • #7 17294853
    Zbigniew 400
    Level 38  
    And who receives the installations in blocks and checks the correctness of the execution and design?
  • #8 17294860
    Anonymous
    Level 1  
  • #9 17294861
    Zbigniew 400
    Level 38  
    And the peak of intelligence is 1 common differential for the whole apartment.
  • #10 17294865
    Anonymous
    Level 1  
  • #11 17294874
    Zbigniew 400
    Level 38  
    And forces the customer to sit in the dark until the electrician comes.
  • #12 17294972
    Anonymous
    Level 1  
  • #13 17295394
    Tomotron
    Level 13  
    Thanks everyone for your reply,

    In this case, at least two separate circuits are missing, for the dishwasher and for the oven.

    To sum up, there are three circuits in the kitchen, for an induction hob, sockets on the floor, most likely for the fridge, dishwasher and the unfortunate oven, in addition, it goes to the hood. The third circuit is the sockets at the kitchen counter to which it will be connected, at most a mixer, blender - microwave is not provided.

    Having no other choice, willy-nilly, I have to stick with the original solution.

    Regards
  • #14 17300510
    Tomotron
    Level 13  
    In this situation, Hager accessories, MBN216E overcurrent circuit breaker for induction, were inserted into the MBN116E oven
| New topic
Report a violation of the law

Topic summary

✨ The discussion revolves around the electrical installation of a kitchen where an electrician proposed connecting a dishwasher, refrigerator, oven, and hood on a single circuit. The user is concerned about the adequacy of this setup, particularly regarding the induction hob, which is connected to a 3-phase circuit (5x4mm²) with an RCD and 16A breakers. Responses emphasize that the oven must be on a separate circuit due to safety standards, which require stationary devices with a power of 2 kW or more to have individual circuits. Suggestions include the necessity of at least three circuits in the kitchen: one for the induction hob, one for the oven, and another for the dishwasher. The user ultimately acknowledges the constraints of their installation and plans to proceed with the original solution while noting the need for proper circuit separation.
Generated by the language model.

FAQ

TL;DR: On a 5x4 mm², 3F cooker feed with 16 A breakers, "The oven MUST be on a separate circuit" [Elektroda, Anonymous, post #17294421] One case used 14 circuits on 84 m² [Elektroda, Anonymous, post #17294972] Sharing N between hob/oven is unacceptable [Elektroda, Anonymous, post #17294421]

Why it matters: This FAQ helps apartment owners and installers fix or plan safe kitchen power for hobs/ovens when walls are already finished.

Quick Facts

Quick Facts

Is it OK to put dishwasher, refrigerator, oven and hood on one circuit?

No. Forum consensus: the oven must be on its own circuit because it’s a stationary load ≥2 kW. Combining many heavy and continuous loads raises nuisance trips and complicates isolation. One expert put it plainly: “The oven MUST be on a separate circuit.” [Elektroda, Anonymous, post #17294421] Another noted the kitchen needed at least separate circuits for dishwasher, oven, and utility sockets [Elektroda, mawerix123, post #17294754]

Can I use the “free phase” from a 5x4 mm² 3‑phase hob feed to power the oven?

No. The hob uses 2 phases + N; the oven would use the third phase + the same N. That makes the neutral common, which is unacceptable. “You can not,” as an expert replied [Elektroda, Anonymous, post #17294421] Even if it “works,” you can’t fully isolate each appliance safely [Elektroda, Anonymous, post #17294743]

What does “separate circuit” actually mean for an oven or hob?

A dedicated final circuit from the distribution board with its own protective device(s) and neutral, not shared with other appliances. You must be able to switch off and service that circuit independently. “You must be able to turn off the circuit, not just half,” an expert emphasized [Elektroda, Anonymous, #17294743; Elektroda, Anonymous, #17294421].

Is a 16 A breaker enough for my induction hob or oven?

It depends on the appliance rating. In the thread, the hob initially had a 16 A three‑pole MCB [Elektroda, Tomotron, post #17294302], and later the user installed Hager MBN216E (hob, 16 A) and MBN116E (oven, 16 A) [Elektroda, Tomotron, post #17300510] Match breaker size to the manufacturer’s nameplate and connection diagram.

Why is sharing the neutral (N) between hob and oven a problem?

It violates good practice for separate circuits and complicates safe isolation. The proposed split would make hob and oven share N from the same 5x4 mm² cable, which was flagged as unacceptable [Elektroda, Anonymous, post #17294421] You also lose the ability to fully de‑energize one appliance without affecting the other [Elektroda, Anonymous, post #17294743]

Is one RCD for the whole apartment acceptable?

It is “sufficient, although inconvenient,” per an expert. It can be problematic with many switched‑mode power supplies (edge-case: nuisance tripping) [Elektroda, Anonymous, post #17294865] Another user noted this setup can leave you in the dark until help arrives [Elektroda, Zbigniew 400, post #17294874] Consider more selective protection where possible.

Who signs off or checks installations in new apartment blocks?

One pro observed that often no one meaningfully verifies them. Frequently there isn’t even a formal project—just verbal agreements about socket locations [Elektroda, Anonymous, #17294860; Elektroda, Zbigniew 400, #17294853]. This explains why questionable kitchen circuit groupings are encountered.

I can’t chase walls—how do I add a separate oven circuit now?

Walls and floors are finished in your scenario [Elektroda, Tomotron, post #17294302] Try this minimal-impact approach:
  1. Plan a surface route: above cabinets, inside plinths, or via ceiling voids.
  2. Use surface trunking or conduit to the oven niche, keeping runs short and protected.
  3. Install a dedicated MCB/RCBO in the board and pull a new cable on that route (qualified electrician).

Will splitting the hob feed into double‑pole (hob) and single‑pole (oven) breakers fix it?

No. That layout still shares the neutral, which experts flagged as unacceptable [Elektroda, Anonymous, post #17294421] The thread author later fitted Hager MBN216E for the hob and MBN116E for the oven (both 16 A), but the safety concern about a common N remains [Elektroda, Tomotron, post #17300510]

I often see hob+oven on one 5x4 mm² cable—is that ever acceptable?

Pros report seeing it in new blocks, but they criticize it. It may “work,” yet it prevents proper isolation and reflects corner‑cutting rather than good design [Elektroda, Zbigniew 400, #17294716; Elektroda, Anonymous, #17294743]. Follow the separate‑circuit guidance for safety and serviceability [Elektroda, Anonymous, post #17294421]
Generated by the language model.
ADVERTISEMENT