Guide on Proper Dilution of Basecoat and Clearcoat for Car Painting: Comparing with Acrylic Paints

Hello
I have a few questions
I'm going to paint the car next week.
I don't know how to dilute basecoat and clearcoat.
Do these varnishes thin the same as acrylic paint?
So you buy the right cup (container) And there are lines
A, B and C and proportions, e.g. 1:1
A-paint
B-hardener
C solvent...
Do bar varnish and clear varnish dilute the same?
If not how?

Leave the base alone, because it will be ready for use.
Colorless so you don't spill it before it dries.

pusty20 wrote:

Leave the base alone, because it will be ready for use.
Colorless so you don't spill it before it dries.

You haven't painted much...
Where you bought varnishes, depending on the order, manufacturer, type of varnish and consistency, they should give you the recipe and, importantly, the appropriate thinners. The rule is to use ingredients from the same manufacturer.

Yes, but how do I dilute these varnishes?
The seller will write me a proportion and what should I do next?

manta wrote:

manufacturer, type of varnish and consistency, they should give you the recipe

So what should I write to you? Sikkens base 50/50 with solvent, Du point has its proportions. Clear 50/30/20%. But these are sample proportions. I don't know what paint manufacturer you have.

I just want to know how it dilutes.
So I understand that each manufacturer of the base and clear has its own "method" of dilution?
I thought that these "paints" are diluted in the same way as acrylic (each acrylic is diluted in the same way, you buy the right container and there are printed proportions, etc.)

Well, you were wrong, the manufacturer determines the proportions and there are no uniform ones. Once, in the era of synthetic varnishes, i.e. those that mainly gelled by evaporating the solvent, special measuring funnels, commonly known as cups, were used. Currently, final varnishes are chemically hardened substances, so each manufacturer sets the proportions based on the ingredients. There are also e.g. thinners for shading or patches and we use them in completely different proportions. But this is a higher driving school.

I had an event in a store under the name "D`Point" I advertised the added color, because it was two tones darker. The first question the seller asked me was how much thinner I had given. My answer was: to the working viscosity (about 6-7 seconds according to the Ford cup), so it was about 12% because I was painting at about 17 * C. I was ridiculed and the complaint was not considered because D`Point recommends 20% solvent and its amount can (quote the seller) make 20 shades. hehe. Well, maybe I don't know everything about varnish yet. I went to the competition and made the base again, with the same dilution it came in like gold, without pollination.
Generally, based on my experience, after stirring with a wooden spatula, the varnish should drip from it in a continuous stream for about 1-1-5 seconds and then drip. then it lays down without the orange peel. Of course, the first wetting layer, the next, wet on wet until full coverage. layers as thick as possible, but so that the fringes do not flow.
I paint fine-grained metallic bases (especially in significant dilutions) on a large dispersion of the nozzle so that there are no shadows between the overlaps.

So it will be best for me to talk to the seller and he will explain to me how to dilute the purchased clear and base. What do you say?

If you come across a polite seller, I will even photocopy the product data sheet. It contains everything you need to know about how to apply the material.

May I hit
Thanks for your help as I write this
Regards