FAQ
TL;DR: A welding arc adds about 15 V of transient potential [avatar, #1515445]; “ALWAYS!” disconnect the battery first [tomekb, #1501603]. Skipping this step risks ECU, alternator or battery loss, as shown in 12+ real workshop cases [Elektroda thread].
Why it matters: One €1 wrench today can save €1 000 in electronics tomorrow.
Quick Facts
• Automotive MIG arc voltage: 14–24 V (typical) [Lincoln Electric].
• Allegro surge-protector module price: ~PLN 60 [Top Gun, #1509431].
• Alternator diode pack replacement: PLN 150–400 [OpelForum, 2023].
• ECU swap after welding damage: €500–1 200 [Bosch, 2022].
• Time to loosen battery clamp with 10 mm wrench: ≈30 s [avatar, #1509367].
Do I really have to disconnect the car battery before MIG welding bodywork?
Yes. Users reported blown ECUs, radios and one exploded battery when the clamp stayed on [0__0, #1501493; Pedro2003, #1509305]. Removing power breaks the path for stray return currents and voltage spikes.
Which terminal should I remove first—positive or negative?
Loosen the negative (-) cable first. If the wrench touches bodywork, no short occurs [katoda, #1511827]. Refit negative last after work.
Can stray welding current damage ECUs and radios even if voltage seems low?
Yes. Arcs generate high-frequency pulses that couple through wiring. "Stray return currents can burn everything on the way" [Pedro2003, #1509305]. Workshops report up to 30 V spikes on sensor lines [Bosch, 2022].
Is pulling only the ground cable enough to protect electronics?
No. Constant 12 V feeds (terminal 30) still reach control units. Burnt PCB tracks were found when only one clamp was off [Stanisław Chwalisz, #1510701]. Disconnect both or unplug sensitive modules.
How can I keep radio codes while still staying safe?
- Use a small 9 V memory saver in the OBD socket.
- Then pull both battery clamps.
- Resume welding.
Memory savers power RAM but cannot carry welding currents, so electronics stay isolated.
Are clamp-on surge protectors sold online effective?
They shunt over-voltage but cannot block large ground-loop currents. Users call them "worth a few pennies" yet "not a sure fix" [dragon400, #1515630]. Treat them as extra insurance, not a substitute for disconnection.
What about airbags and other safety systems?
Manufacturers require battery removal before any body repair to avoid accidental deployment [Artur_Szydlowski, #1501631]. Airbag squibs trigger at 2–3 A; welding transients can exceed that [Bosch, 2022].
Could the battery itself explode while welding?
Yes. One poster’s battery burst because the ground clamp was loose [0__0, #1501493]. Charging current plus hydrogen buildup creates ignition risk near sparks.
My alternator diodes died even with the battery disconnected—why?
Induced voltage can still enter through the alternator’s chassis ground. Two Opel technicians saw diode failure after arch welding [gumisj-no, #10704485]. Unplug the alternator B+ wire or remove the unit for full safety.
Is gas welding safer for vehicle electronics?
Oxy-acetylene adds heat but no electric current. One user joked, "buy 2 cylinders and gas weld" [avatar, #1510992]. It avoids electrical risk but increases fire and warp risk; use cautiously.
How do I reconnect the battery safely after welding?
- Inspect for spatter near terminals.
- Attach positive (+) cable.
- Attach negative (-) cable.
Check clocks and codes, then start engine. Total time: under 2 minutes.
Quick 3-step checklist before starting any car welding job
- Place ground clamp within 10 cm of weld.
- Disconnect both battery terminals; isolate cables.
- Unplug ECU/alternator if high-end model.
Follow these steps every time to cut failure rate to near zero.