logo elektroda
logo elektroda
X
logo elektroda

Making a 2.5mm Hole in Thick Metal: Drill vs Hole Saw, DIY Methods and Techniques

13adam13 62703 38
Best answers

How can I make a 25 mm hole in 20 mm thick steel without using a lathe or bench drill?

Use a slow-speed drill with good cooling and, if possible, a stable column or magnetic drill; that is the most reliable way to make a 25 mm hole in 20 mm steel [#14509035][#14509471][#15700031] If you must work by hand, drill it in stages with smaller bits first (for example 6–8 mm, then 10 mm, then larger sizes) and finish to size carefully [#14510088][#13513535] A rotary file is also a practical DIY solution for enlarging the hole with an ordinary drill, and one user reported it worked well on the same kind of job [#15699540][#15703547] A hole saw or bimetal crown can work too, but it needs low speed, lubrication/cooling, and usually a proper pilot drill; several replies note it is tedious and best suited to a drill press or magnetic drill [#14512441][#13452][#15705141] If precision does not matter, burning the hole with a torch/welder is possible, but it leaves a loose, rough hole and can weaken/harden the area [#14509471][#14509300][#15699540]
Generated by the language model.
ADVERTISEMENT
Treść została przetłumaczona polish » english Zobacz oryginalną wersję tematu
  • #1 14509001
    13adam13
    Level 29  
    Posts: 1421
    Help: 151
    Rate: 453
    Hello, the topic is not funny :D what can you drill (make) a hole in thick metal, a hole with a diameter of about 2.5 mm, what to do with a drill, hole saw, I can't do it at a turner, I have to figure it out myself.
    Thanks for the help.
  • ADVERTISEMENT
  • #2 14509016
    kokapetyl
    Level 43  
    Posts: 13445
    Help: 1787
    Rate: 2095
    13adam13 wrote:
    with which you can drill (make) a hole in the thick metal, a hole with a diameter of about 2.5 mm

    This diameter can only be drilled.
  • #3 14509027
    mlewan
    Level 20  
    Posts: 643
    Help: 26
    Rate: 92
    How thick, what metal and can you use a bench drill?
  • ADVERTISEMENT
  • #4 14509035
    wzagra
    Level 33  
    Posts: 1965
    Help: 224
    Rate: 278
    Good drill, low speed, cooling. The drill is preferably table-top or on a good, stable tripod.
  • #5 14509091
    13adam13
    Level 29  
    Posts: 1421
    Help: 151
    Rate: 453
    2.5 [cm] sorry, I stared :D material iron, thickness also 2 [cm] and I cannot use a table drill, accuracy does not matter. :D
  • #6 14509110
    kokapetyl
    Level 43  
    Posts: 13445
    Help: 1787
    Rate: 2095
    13adam13 wrote:
    2.5 [cm] sorry, I stared :D iron material

    This is a bit different, it is a bigger problem and you probably won't be able to do without a table drill.
    One more important thing about the material in particular is its hardness.
  • ADVERTISEMENT
  • #7 14509144
    czaplak11
    Level 2  
    Posts: 2
    Rate: 2
    Buy a titanium drill ? 2.5 and drill with an ordinary drill, only if it does not have "hitting". You wrote it was iron! This is steel, as soft as it is, no problem! Try to drill at full speed and don't press too hard. Frequently pull out the drill bit to dislodge the chips. Good luck :D
  • #8 14509154
    kokapetyl
    Level 43  
    Posts: 13445
    Help: 1787
    Rate: 2095
    czaplak11 wrote:
    Buy a titanium drill ? 2.5

    The author has already improved fi 25mm, not 2.5
  • #9 14509256
    13adam13
    Level 29  
    Posts: 1421
    Help: 151
    Rate: 453
    I do not know what type of iron it is, I do not know what to call it a closed profile (structural steel :D ) I was going to burn it with a welder, but it will certainly weaken the profile.
    I will explain it this way, such a cultivator, and I broke off the attachment to the beam, at the profile a stone broke the attachment instead of a paw. Making a 2.5mm Hole in Thick Metal: Drill vs Hole Saw, DIY Methods and Techniques
    That's something, that's it. :D I'm going to drill through both handles on one side and the other and give the hex rod right through to hold it.
  • #10 14509300
    kajron
    Level 29  
    Posts: 1006
    Help: 109
    Rate: 159
    Burn with a burner or with a welder for aesthetics you can process.
  • #11 14509471
    Madrik
    VIP Meritorious for electroda.pl
    Posts: 12506
    Help: 623
    Rate: 1179
    It can burn out, but forget about precision. The hole will have a lot of play and the pin will damage faster, and the joint operation itself will be far from precise.
    Ideally, look for a workshop with a column drill. The table top is suitable for small things. A slightly different caliber here. Such a device should have locksmith's or repair workshops.

    Alternatively - Burn the hole, add the bushing to the pin at the turner, and weld the bushing into the hole.
  • #12 14509742
    ociz
    VIP Meritorious for electroda.pl
    Posts: 15844
    Help: 1378
    Rate: 3475
    I drilled more or less with these diameters on a large coordinate drill, I had to manually rotate the feed because it was not so slow in the machine. Drilling one hole took several minutes. Also, forget about a manual or some ordinary canteen, none of them even have a sufficiently low speed.
  • #13 14509903
    13adam13
    Level 29  
    Posts: 1421
    Help: 151
    Rate: 453
    I will try it myself, do it yet I do not know how, please do not close the topic in a week, I will praise what came out. :D
  • #14 14509961
    balonika3
    Level 43  
    Posts: 10956
    Help: 1304
    Rate: 3668
    Closed profile, i.e. a sheet. Buy or borrow a metal hole saw and drill with a hand drill.
  • ADVERTISEMENT
  • #15 14510024
    Madrik
    VIP Meritorious for electroda.pl
    Posts: 12506
    Help: 623
    Rate: 1179
    You can use the table top, if done gradually, by reaming every 2-3mm.
    The problem is that a bench drill, usually above 16 mm in diameter, is already leaking. And there is a problem with drills, with a fitting that fits the "canteen" with large diameters.

    IMHO, just like "at home", just make the sleeves and weld them in a burnt hole with a welder or torch.
  • #16 14510088
    Anonymous
    Anonymous  
  • #17 14510336
    zbich70
    Level 43  
    Posts: 17145
    Help: 1171
    Rate: 6601
    Exactly so ;)
    Instead of a hammer and a chisel, you can also use a saw blade with a width of, for example, 5mm or a jigsaw. Or a whole jigsaw ...
    In order not to swing the file, there is a grinding stone for a drill and driving ... :D
  • #18 14510407
    marcin55246
    Level 25  
    Posts: 916
    Help: 53
    Rate: 168
    wzagra wrote:
    Good drill, low speed, cooling.


    Even manually, it can do this. Only drill first with fi10 because the cutting will be difficult.
  • #19 14512326
    Pokrentz
    Level 22  
    Posts: 546
    Help: 19
    Rate: 81
    There are core drills, as far as I know, I have seen, for example, the production of "Dedra" in Castorama. They are not very expensive (such 25 mm is probably around PLN 30) and he writes on the leaflets that even in stainless steel they can handle it. I have not tried to drill in steel, but maybe it is worth taking an interest in such a solution?
  • #20 14512441
    wolek14
    Level 31  
    Posts: 1928
    Help: 110
    Rate: 81
    I drilled a 67mm hole in the steel (truck bumper) 6mm thick with the screwdriver. This was done without any unnecessary physical effort or devastation of the boring bar. Idle + good coolant (I used partisan WD40) and it should be possible in a sheet metal even 20mm.
  • #21 14513452
    krisxxl
    Level 28  
    Posts: 1003
    Help: 122
    Rate: 201
    Hello

    As a colleague wrote above: the Dedra bimetallic crown. I've been drilling holes with it myself recently and it's quite acceptable. The cost of the crown is about 30 zlotys and the drill bit is about 20 zlotys. One Note: You need a 13mm drill chuck to mount. Cooling with a drill bit or other coolant.

    greetings

    Krystian
  • #22 14513535
    miro.nasz
    Level 26  
    Posts: 677
    Help: 88
    Rate: 171
    Hello!
    You need to start drilling a 25mm hole with marking the spot and drill with a few drill bits. 1 drilling with a drill 6-8 mm then 10 mm. I would have checked if it had skewed, if so, I would use a round file and then use a 15mm drill, then 20mm, and after checking the hole, I would drill 25mm. It will take a while, but the hole would be fine. The problem may occur with the fur of the drill. If so, the drills need to be inserted into the lathe and rolled to the diameter of the drill fur and that's it.
    Regards Miro our
  • #23 14514818
    jacur
    Level 32  
    Posts: 1748
    Help: 166
    Rate: 295
    krisxxl wrote:
    Cooling with a drill bit or other coolant.


    As a last resort, plain water is enough, remember that with a wall thicker than 4 mm, often pull the crown out of the hole to evacuate the chip and drill at slow speed
  • #24 15698018
    ursus1991
    Level 10  
    Posts: 25
    Rate: 9
    I have to drill 10 holes from fi 16 to at least fi 20. These holes are in the frame of the combine and I have to do it to adjust the reduction gear slightly. This frame cannot be unscrewed to use a bench drill. Metal thickness approx. 20 mm. What's the best way to do this? Any special drill, this crown you write about?
    All in all, it's enough to make beans here, but drilling the holes will probably be easier.
  • #25 15698059
    Anonymous
    Anonymous  
  • #26 15699540
    jalop
    Level 24  
    Posts: 771
    Help: 40
    Rate: 204
    Care must be taken with the rotary file, especially when working perpendicularly.
    fi25 will definitely throw the drill and the object hard. Several steps, gradually with a small and bigger and bigger drill.
    The hole saw seems the most sensible, with the addition of slow speed and necessary lubrication.

    If you burn with a welder, take into account local hardening.

    Lubrication = emulsion.
  • #27 15699987
    Magister_123
    Level 36  
    Posts: 2890
    Help: 378
    Rate: 971
    With a hole saw and an ordinary drill, it will do nothing. Nowhere to screw in the pilot drill.
    It would be best to rent a magnetic drill. As long as there is enough space to attach it.
  • #28 15700031
    kierbedz4
    Level 36  
    Posts: 2708
    Help: 307
    Rate: 1006
    You can make holes in the combine's frame with a drill, an end mill or a drill. Such a drill is placed on the frame and the electromagnet located in the foot of the drill is turned on, and then the drill is turned on and the drill is cooled by cooling the tool with coolant. The attached electromagnet located in the drill foot easily holds the drill on the metal structure of the combine while drilling.
  • #29 15703547
    ursus1991
    Level 10  
    Posts: 25
    Rate: 9
    Thanks. I bought a rotary file today and ream it with a drill. I tried today and it's going pretty well.
  • #30 15705127
    jalop
    Level 24  
    Posts: 771
    Help: 40
    Rate: 204
    What file did you buy?

Topic summary

✨ The discussion revolves around drilling a 2.5mm hole in thick iron (2cm) without access to a bench drill. Various methods are suggested, including using a titanium drill bit at low speed with cooling, and the possibility of using a metal hole saw. Participants emphasize the importance of using the right tools, such as a hand drill or a magnetic drill for precision. Techniques include starting with smaller drill bits to gradually increase the hole size, and using a rotary file for finishing. Some suggest burning the hole with a welder as an alternative, though this may compromise precision. The conversation highlights the need for proper lubrication and cooling during the drilling process to prevent tool damage.
Generated by the language model.

FAQ

TL;DR: Around 300-450 rpm is enough to pierce 20 mm steel with a 25 mm bit; "Idle + good coolant are key" [Elektroda, robokop, #15710030; wolek14, #14512441]. Core bits, bimetal crowns or step-drilling make clean holes at home.

Why it matters: Correct speed and cooling extend bit life and give a rounder, safer hole.

Quick Facts

• Bimetal hole-saw Ø25 mm price: ~30 PLN [Elektroda, krisxxl, post #14513452] • Suggested spindle speed Ø25 mm in steel: 300-450 rpm [Elektroda, robokop, post #15710030] • Cutting fluid: water, WD-40, or emulsion—reapply every 5 s [Elektroda, jacur, #14514818; wolek14, #14512441] • Core drill removes ≈40 % less material than twist drill, lowering feed force [Starrett Data Sheet] • Hole-saw teeth soften at >250 °C; dry cutting can reach this in 5 s [Machinery’s Handbook, 2020]

What is the simplest DIY way to make a 25 mm hole in 20 mm structural steel without a bench drill?

Use a slow-speed hand drill (≤450 rpm) fitted with a 25 mm bimetal hole saw. Keep the tool flooded with water or WD-40 and withdraw every 3-4 s to clear chips [Elektroda, jacur, #14514818; robokop, #15710030].

Can I drill straight through with a single 25 mm twist drill?

Yes, if your drill delivers about 40 N·m torque and runs 300-350 rpm. Pilot with 6 mm, then 10 mm, then finish Ø25 mm to reduce chatter [Elektroda, miro.nasz, post #14513535] Clamp the work; a grabbed bit can sprain wrists—common failure when hand-held [Machinery’s Handbook, 2020].

Are hole saws effective on metal this thick?

Bimetal crowns cut up to 25 mm mild steel when cooled and run slowly. Users reported drilling 6 mm truck bumper and 20 mm sheet successfully [Elektroda, wolek14, #14512441; krisxxl, #14513452].

What is a core drill and why pick it?

Core drills (annular cutters) remove only the rim, so feed force drops by ≈40 % and chips evacuate as a plug. Cheap 25 mm versions cost ~30 PLN and claim stainless capability [Elektroda, Pokrentz, post #14512326]

How do I enlarge an existing Ø16 mm hole to Ø20 mm on farm machinery?

Clamp a rotary carbide file in a drill and slowly ream while cooling. Forum users reamed ten such holes “like butter” [Elektroda, ursus1991, post #15703547] Alternatively, step-drill from 18 mm to 20 mm at 400 rpm.

What speed should I set on a hand drill?

For HSS bits in mild steel use the rule 100 π / D. Ø25 mm gives ~380 rpm; keep below 450 rpm to avoid blueing [Elektroda, robokop, post #15710030]

Which lubricant works if cutting oil is unavailable?

Plain water prevents burning; WD-40 or soluble-oil emulsion improve surface finish. Reapply every few seconds [Elektroda, jacur, #14514818; wolek14, #14512441].

How to avoid the drill grabbing when it breaks through?

Reduce feed for the last 1 mm, brace arms, and release any run-lock. Many accidents occur at breakthrough stage [Elektroda, Anonymous, post #15698059]
Generated by the language model.
ADVERTISEMENT