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Making a 2.5mm Hole in Thick Metal: Drill vs Hole Saw, DIY Methods and Techniques

13adam13 57213 38
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  • #1 14509001
    13adam13
    Level 29  
    Hello, the topic is not funny :D what can you drill (make) a hole in thick metal, a hole with a diameter of about 2.5 mm, what to do with a drill, hole saw, I can't do it at a turner, I have to figure it out myself.
    Thanks for the help.
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  • #2 14509016
    kokapetyl
    Level 43  
    13adam13 wrote:
    with which you can drill (make) a hole in the thick metal, a hole with a diameter of about 2.5 mm

    This diameter can only be drilled.
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  • #3 14509027
    mlewan
    Level 20  
    How thick, what metal and can you use a bench drill?
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  • #4 14509035
    wzagra
    Level 33  
    Good drill, low speed, cooling. The drill is preferably table-top or on a good, stable tripod.
  • #5 14509091
    13adam13
    Level 29  
    2.5 [cm] sorry, I stared :D material iron, thickness also 2 [cm] and I cannot use a table drill, accuracy does not matter. :D
  • #6 14509110
    kokapetyl
    Level 43  
    13adam13 wrote:
    2.5 [cm] sorry, I stared :D iron material

    This is a bit different, it is a bigger problem and you probably won't be able to do without a table drill.
    One more important thing about the material in particular is its hardness.
  • #7 14509144
    czaplak11
    Level 2  
    Buy a titanium drill ? 2.5 and drill with an ordinary drill, only if it does not have "hitting". You wrote it was iron! This is steel, as soft as it is, no problem! Try to drill at full speed and don't press too hard. Frequently pull out the drill bit to dislodge the chips. Good luck :D
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  • #8 14509154
    kokapetyl
    Level 43  
    czaplak11 wrote:
    Buy a titanium drill ? 2.5

    The author has already improved fi 25mm, not 2.5
  • #9 14509256
    13adam13
    Level 29  
    I do not know what type of iron it is, I do not know what to call it a closed profile (structural steel :D ) I was going to burn it with a welder, but it will certainly weaken the profile.
    I will explain it this way, such a cultivator, and I broke off the attachment to the beam, at the profile a stone broke the attachment instead of a paw. Making a 2.5mm Hole in Thick Metal: Drill vs Hole Saw, DIY Methods and Techniques
    That's something, that's it. :D I'm going to drill through both handles on one side and the other and give the hex rod right through to hold it.
  • #10 14509300
    kajron
    Level 29  
    Burn with a burner or with a welder for aesthetics you can process.
  • #11 14509471
    Madrik
    moderator of Robotics
    It can burn out, but forget about precision. The hole will have a lot of play and the pin will damage faster, and the joint operation itself will be far from precise.
    Ideally, look for a workshop with a column drill. The table top is suitable for small things. A slightly different caliber here. Such a device should have locksmith's or repair workshops.

    Alternatively - Burn the hole, add the bushing to the pin at the turner, and weld the bushing into the hole.
  • #12 14509742
    ociz
    VIP Meritorious for electroda.pl
    I drilled more or less with these diameters on a large coordinate drill, I had to manually rotate the feed because it was not so slow in the machine. Drilling one hole took several minutes. Also, forget about a manual or some ordinary canteen, none of them even have a sufficiently low speed.
  • #13 14509903
    13adam13
    Level 29  
    I will try it myself, do it yet I do not know how, please do not close the topic in a week, I will praise what came out. :D
  • #14 14509961
    balonika3
    Level 43  
    Closed profile, i.e. a sheet. Buy or borrow a metal hole saw and drill with a hand drill.
  • #15 14510024
    Madrik
    moderator of Robotics
    You can use the table top, if done gradually, by reaming every 2-3mm.
    The problem is that a bench drill, usually above 16 mm in diameter, is already leaking. And there is a problem with drills, with a fitting that fits the "canteen" with large diameters.

    IMHO, just like "at home", just make the sleeves and weld them in a burnt hole with a welder or torch.
  • #16 14510088
    Anonymous
    Anonymous  
  • #17 14510336
    zbich70
    Level 43  
    Exactly so ;)
    Instead of a hammer and a chisel, you can also use a saw blade with a width of, for example, 5mm or a jigsaw. Or a whole jigsaw ...
    In order not to swing the file, there is a grinding stone for a drill and driving ... :D
  • #18 14510407
    marcin55246
    Level 25  
    wzagra wrote:
    Good drill, low speed, cooling.


    Even manually, it can do this. Only drill first with fi10 because the cutting will be difficult.
  • #19 14512326
    Pokrentz
    Level 22  
    There are core drills, as far as I know, I have seen, for example, the production of "Dedra" in Castorama. They are not very expensive (such 25 mm is probably around PLN 30) and he writes on the leaflets that even in stainless steel they can handle it. I have not tried to drill in steel, but maybe it is worth taking an interest in such a solution?
  • #20 14512441
    wolek14
    Level 31  
    I drilled a 67mm hole in the steel (truck bumper) 6mm thick with the screwdriver. This was done without any unnecessary physical effort or devastation of the boring bar. Idle + good coolant (I used partisan WD40) and it should be possible in a sheet metal even 20mm.
  • #21 14513452
    krisxxl
    Level 28  
    Hello

    As a colleague wrote above: the Dedra bimetallic crown. I've been drilling holes with it myself recently and it's quite acceptable. The cost of the crown is about 30 zlotys and the drill bit is about 20 zlotys. One Note: You need a 13mm drill chuck to mount. Cooling with a drill bit or other coolant.

    greetings

    Krystian
  • #22 14513535
    miro.nasz
    Level 26  
    Hello!
    You need to start drilling a 25mm hole with marking the spot and drill with a few drill bits. 1 drilling with a drill 6-8 mm then 10 mm. I would have checked if it had skewed, if so, I would use a round file and then use a 15mm drill, then 20mm, and after checking the hole, I would drill 25mm. It will take a while, but the hole would be fine. The problem may occur with the fur of the drill. If so, the drills need to be inserted into the lathe and rolled to the diameter of the drill fur and that's it.
    Regards Miro our
  • #23 14514818
    jacur
    Level 32  
    krisxxl wrote:
    Cooling with a drill bit or other coolant.


    As a last resort, plain water is enough, remember that with a wall thicker than 4 mm, often pull the crown out of the hole to evacuate the chip and drill at slow speed
  • #24 15698018
    ursus1991
    Level 10  
    I have to drill 10 holes from fi 16 to at least fi 20. These holes are in the frame of the combine and I have to do it to adjust the reduction gear slightly. This frame cannot be unscrewed to use a bench drill. Metal thickness approx. 20 mm. What's the best way to do this? Any special drill, this crown you write about?
    All in all, it's enough to make beans here, but drilling the holes will probably be easier.
  • #25 15698059
    Anonymous
    Anonymous  
  • #26 15699540
    jalop
    Level 24  
    Care must be taken with the rotary file, especially when working perpendicularly.
    fi25 will definitely throw the drill and the object hard. Several steps, gradually with a small and bigger and bigger drill.
    The hole saw seems the most sensible, with the addition of slow speed and necessary lubrication.

    If you burn with a welder, take into account local hardening.

    Lubrication = emulsion.
  • #27 15699987
    Magister_123
    Level 36  
    With a hole saw and an ordinary drill, it will do nothing. Nowhere to screw in the pilot drill.
    It would be best to rent a magnetic drill. As long as there is enough space to attach it.
  • #28 15700031
    kierbedz4
    Level 36  
    You can make holes in the combine's frame with a drill, an end mill or a drill. Such a drill is placed on the frame and the electromagnet located in the foot of the drill is turned on, and then the drill is turned on and the drill is cooled by cooling the tool with coolant. The attached electromagnet located in the drill foot easily holds the drill on the metal structure of the combine while drilling.
  • #29 15703547
    ursus1991
    Level 10  
    Thanks. I bought a rotary file today and ream it with a drill. I tried today and it's going pretty well.

Topic summary

The discussion revolves around drilling a 2.5mm hole in thick iron (2cm) without access to a bench drill. Various methods are suggested, including using a titanium drill bit at low speed with cooling, and the possibility of using a metal hole saw. Participants emphasize the importance of using the right tools, such as a hand drill or a magnetic drill for precision. Techniques include starting with smaller drill bits to gradually increase the hole size, and using a rotary file for finishing. Some suggest burning the hole with a welder as an alternative, though this may compromise precision. The conversation highlights the need for proper lubrication and cooling during the drilling process to prevent tool damage.
Summary generated by the language model.
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