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Welding a rack from profiles - what electrodes and welding current?

logitech55 71871 28
Best answers

Jakie elektrody i jaki prąd ustawić do spawania profili stalowych o grubości 2 mm oraz jak zacząć, żeby spoiny wyszły poprawnie?

Do profili 2 mm najlepiej kupić cienkie elektrody rutylowe „pink”/E6013 (np. ER146), raczej 1,6–2,0 mm; 2,5 mm jest już trudne, a 3,2 mm za grube do tak cienkiej ścianki [#15006768] [#18648743] [#14528878] Prąd ustaw około 55–60 A, a dla elektrod 2,5 mm podawano ok. 60 A, więc dla 1,6–2,0 mm trzeba zwykle zacząć od podobnego lub nieco niższego zakresu i dobrać go do konkretnej spawarki [#18648743] [#14528878] [#14523367] Zacznij od kawałków złomu lub odcinków tego samego profilu, czystego do gołego metalu — bez rdzy, farby, zgorzeliny i ocynku [#14528878] [#14531369] [#14534151] Spawaj w pozycji „na płasko”, bo pionowe spoiny są trudniejsze i przy zbyt dużym prądzie materiał będzie spływał; przy spawaniu pionowym trzeba prąd zmniejszyć [#14521188] [#14523690] [#18650192] Trzymaj elektrodę pod kątem około 20–30° do materiału i prowadź ją krótko, „zanurzając” ją w jeziorku, zamiast trzymać długi łuk [#14525173] [#14534151] Jeśli materiał się przepala albo spoina wychodzi zbyt płynna, zmniejsz amperaż i rób przerwy, żeby cienkie elementy ostygły [#14523690] [#14534195]
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  • #1 14521024
    logitech55
    Level 9  
    I would like to make a rack of metal profiles with a wall thickness of 2 mm. Transformer welder max 300 A.
    * Which electrodes to buy (what thickness and color, or what company)?
    * What current should I set?
    * How to start and what to be careful to "measure" it turns out nice?
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  • #2 14521096
    tomjed
    Level 28  
    Haven't you welded before?
  • #3 14521113
    logitech55
    Level 9  
    I saw someone welding not only from a distance
  • #4 14521188
    tomjed
    Level 28  
    I was in the same situation 2 years ago. I bought an invertor welder and tried it from 0. Buy yourself 1.6 2 and 2.5 electrodes and try ... You will have a problem with vertical joints. I still snot them today, because they flow to me. Maybe someone will advise here. Try to weld "lying down". Remember to melt the material. There are several tutorial videos on YT. By the way, it's interesting if there will be a good soul who will tell you something ... Personally, I think that amateur welding is nothing terrible. You just need to practice ... 2mm is not too much and you may burn yourself out, but you should embrace it. Good luck...
  • #5 14523074
    logitech55
    Level 9  
    Is it worth buying electrodes 1.6 and 2 or larger. They are and have such a description on the well-known portal
    I do not give a link because it is not allowed, so I am pasting the description:
    Spoiler:
    Quote:
    METALWELD RUTWELD ELECTRODES 12
    1.6 mm 1 kg rutile pink low-alloy steels - rutile
    Electrode for welding steel structures. A special advantage is welding of small-sized and thin-walled structures, as well as welding in all positions with welding devices available on the market, including welding transformers for 220V. Perfect for both renovation and assembly works. Energy-saving. Excellent arc stability and flexibility. The sparse fluidity of the molten metal makes it easier to guide the electrode
    Coating type: Rutile-Cellulose
    Welding current: AC, DC -
    Length: 250mm
    Classification:
    EN 499: E 38 0 RC 11;
    DIN 1913: E 43 22 R (C) 3;
    AWS A-5.1: E 6012;
    ISO 2560: E 43 2 R 12
    Welding positions:
    Re-drying: 120 ° C / 1 h
    Chemical composition (in%): C 0.08 Si 0.30 Mn 0.50
    Mechanical properties:
    Plasticity Rp 0.2%:> 380 N / mm2;
    Strength Rm: 470 - 600 N / mm2;
    Elongation A5:> 20%;
    Impact strength Av:> 47 J (0 ° C)
    Native material:
    Unalloyed steels: St 33 to St 52.3;
    Boiler plates: HI, HII, 17 Mn4;
    Tubular steels: St 35 to St 52.4; StE 210.7 to StE 360.7;
    Ship sheets: A, B, D;
    Steel castings: GS-38 to GS-52;
    Sheets thin: 1623/1;
    Aging-resistant steels
  • #6 14523367
    kortyleski
    Level 43  
    Go to any steel warehouse and "under the saw" you will strip a few pieces of steel of different thicknesses. 2.5, pink electrode, current around 80A. Try and learn. There is no other prescription. My only answer is that once you strike the arc, try to "draw" it from one material to another. The last option is a visit to a local shop and with a good cylinder, a trip to the nearest older welder. In 15 minutes, it will teach you more than we did in a year via the Internet
  • #7 14523411
    logitech55
    Level 9  
    I just bought 2 electrodes 2.5 and 3.2 and burns holes on the waste from this profile, when I go faster, it is not flooded again. current about 60-90 A.
    It is quite nice on a 6 mm thick flat bar

    In the mask with filter 10 you can see practically nothing and I was welding in the dark. I heard that there are other types of glass which number will be brighter
  • #8 14523615
    bearq
    Level 39  
    tomjed wrote:
    I was in the same situation 2 years ago. I bought an invertor welder and tried it from 0. Buy yourself 1.6 2 and 2.5 electrodes and try ... You will have a problem with vertical joints. I still snot them today, because they flow to me. Maybe someone will advise here. Try to weld "lying down". Remember to melt the material. There are several tutorial videos on YT. By the way, it's interesting if there will be a good soul who will tell you something ... Personally, I think that amateur welding is nothing terrible. You just need to practice ... 2mm is not too much and you may burn yourself out, but you should embrace it. Good luck...

    You set a slightly lower current and weld from the bottom, the technique is different. If you are welding from the bottom and it flows for you, reduce the amperage
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  • #9 14523627
    tomjed
    Level 28  
    bearq wrote:
    You set a slightly lower current and weld from the bottom, the technique is different. If you are welding from the bottom and it flows for you, reduce the amperage


    Ok, thank you for your attention. I will try.

    kisses
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  • #10 14523690
    bearq
    Level 39  
    logitech55 wrote:
    electrodes 2.5 and 3.2 and the waste from this profile burns holes for me, when I go faster, it is not flooded again. current about 60-90 A.
    It is quite nice on a 6 mm thick flat bar

    Electrode 2-2.5 and amperage not greater than 80A, try with a thinner electrode and less current.

    tomjed wrote:
    bearq wrote:
    You set a slightly lower current and weld from the bottom, the technique is different. If you are welding from the bottom and it flows for you, reduce the amperage


    Ok, thank you for your attention. I will try.

    kisses

    In case of problems, upload a photo of the weld, you will know what is wrong ;)
  • #12 14525173
    grzeskk
    Level 35  
    From my own experience I will suggest that such thin profiles are difficult to weld and I hope that it is not galvanized. Start learning from 4-5mm thick with a 2.5mm electrode. And buy a pack of electrodes, not pieces. Try to ignite the arc and lean the electrode against a flat bar on the cover - let the metal pour onto the material from the electrode - electrode 2.5, current ~ 60A angle of about 20 degrees. And remember that the electrode is not arc-welded - the electrode should be inserted into the pool.
  • #13 14526629
    logitech55
    Level 9  
    I bought a pack of 1.6 and 2 electrodes. Those from the description I have pasted above, I hope they will be good.

    grzeskk You can write more about this account 20 *
  • #14 14527662
    janek1815
    Level 38  
    Start with the fact that if you cannot see through glass 10, you will never learn. Buy yourself a 9 or 8 and see which one suits you better. It just so happens that lenses with the same numbers but different manufacturers have different degrees of darkening. The quick cost is 2 zlotys in gusts. As for welding, do not buy electrodes other than 2.5 thinner ones, they are not suitable and you are not very experienced at 3.25. Anyway, for a 2mm wall they would be too thick.

    And since you have already bought it, start with a small current and place the weld in the boat in the letter V and slowly, and you will see that the weld will be perfect.

    A colleague wrote about the 20-degree angle of the electrode inclination in relation to the material. Holding it at a high angle will burn a hole or a bad weld. A small angle is just safe for you to learn.
  • #15 14527839
    mietek440
    Level 19  
    Welding material less than 3 mm thick requires a lot of practice, you will burn thinner material.
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  • #16 14528878
    Michelson
    Level 26  
    In fact, you won't learn much by reading. Buy a few pounds of scrap metal, cut yourself into pieces and practice. Because it is an extremely manual method. Only clean the welded areas with a clean metal grinder. Under the slogan "mma welding", you can find a lot of good welding videos on youtube, from which you can learn a lot, but it really is no substitute for training. RUTWELD 12 electrodes can be for such things. The 1.6 electrode is quite difficult to weld, you need to have some practice. For what you wrote, I suggest 2.0mm electrodes, current about 60A. Only the current value also depends on the welder, and you have to choose it experimentally. Good luck.
  • #17 14531369
    kortyleski
    Level 43  
    I would like to add that you learn on a new material of the same type, e.g. you cut a piece of the profile in half and weld it back. Welding random pieces of scrap metal requires a lot of skill.
  • #18 14534151
    grzeskk
    Level 35  
    The angle is about starting the arc and holding the electrode at an angle of about 20-30 degrees to the material based on the coating and with a small current the weld will be done by itself. This is a good way to get a fillet weld. I suggest starting the exercises with this. And the base is pure material, no rust, no paint, no scale and no zinc.
    Try to put a second flat on the table perpendicularly and make a fillet weld while resting the electrode at their joint. By selecting the current and the inclination of the electrode, you regulate the depth of penetration and the thickness of the weld.
  • #19 14534195
    cirrostrato
    Level 38  
    I can weld well (my father was a professional welder), I have good equipment, only practice makes perfect. Interesting facts: when thick and thin elements are welded, the arc is held on a thick element, for a thin element you only make (I don't know how to describe it otherwise) "trips" and again it escapes to a thicker element, thin elements are not only welded with a small (appropriate) current, but you can also stop welding and wait for the elements to cool down a bit (they will not glow) and the "pink" electrode is more handy.
  • #20 14534921
    logitech55
    Level 9  
    What do these pink and yellow colors mean
  • #21 14535142
    mietek440
    Level 19  
    pink - this is a rutile electrode
  • #22 15006768
    3jk
    Level 10  
    I read the whole topic quickly, I met a lot of valuable advice and relevant information, but I did not find a question about the equipment, what kind of welder do you have? - because the selection of electrodes and the possibility of welding anything or just welding to a limited extent depends on it. There is information about the welding current = 300A - if it is 60%, then you have specific equipment for industrial applications, if 10% it is a hobbyist welder. Another thing is what welding current: constant or variable? and so on ... Everything can be quickly explained, a few tips and the matter of welding turns out to be trivial

    For starters, buy pink electrodes, these are rutile electrodes, it is best to choose ER146 - this is the symbol of rutile electrodes, which may additionally be marked with a pink dot, but not all companies do this, but the inscription is.
    I propose a thickness of 3.25 mm and 2.5 mm electrodes - because it is easier to ignite and conduct an electric arc.

    If you are still interested in the topic, please info - I will be happy to help, I also started this way once, but there was no internet :D
  • #23 18642085
    kulbaszon
    Level 11  
    Very good introduction osohozi - no specific dimensions. As a beginner, I have been reading the topic for some time and finally something "light" that explains the topic initially.
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zCnQStwX9JA
    Then you can probably learn with Piran, here about MIGomat, but also about MMA (electrode welder):
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=noLdz6pWSj0
    Maybe something will help someone :)
  • #24 18642134
    bearq
    Level 39  
    Haven't you noticed that the topic is already 5 years old?
  • #25 18642641
    kulbaszon
    Level 11  
    Has it become obsolete in any way due to being five years old?

    I came here from Google. Probably the same as thousands of other people who have watched this thread so far. I believe that it is worth supplementing it with something substantive.
  • #26 18648743
    lukaszp31
    Level 9  
    So this is how I read what you gentlemen write here. They talk about a 2.5 or 3.2 electrode for a 2mm profile. Definitely too thick, it's hard to make a nice weld. There is no need to talk about 3.2. 2.5 will either smoke or the crap will come out. 1.6 e6013 rutile not rutile-basic. Lest you get confused. It's hard to weld, but it's a matter of practice, the ampere is about 55 and it will be a great spread - + 7 amps depending on the welder.

    Added after 1 [minutes]:

    And so ;)
  • #27 18650192
    kierbedz4
    Level 36  
    Welding vertically, then the welding current should be reduced by about 10%. Welding current is assumed to be about 45A per mm of electrode. On each package of electrodes there is a table regarding the selection of welding current for a specific electrode diameter, you can use this table.
  • #28 18650412
    lukaszp31
    Level 9  
    In my opinion, there is nothing to take 45a per mm. The ampere is selected for the metal to be welded and for the equipment that is operated. Tables of general principles adopted are good but for this just a start. You have to choose the rest yourself.

    Added after 4 [minutes]:

    Welding vertically ampere down so that the lake does not flow down. From left to right, depending on the electrode, up to 3 seconds per side and run to the other side. But there is nothing to cheat on, it's hard to weld the 2mm wall vertically. You must also remember to fit the elements. If the elements do not fit properly, it would be advisable to weld the initial welding first. That is, stick the holes more together and then start welding
  • #29 18766935
    balcerowicz79
    Level 17  
    Interesting topic, despite 5 years ... I will probably read a few more times.
    I just ordered a 140A mma dc inverter welder.
    For the first time I see on aledrogo that the manufacturer and the seller write the truth on the housing of the equipment and in the description, real info about the power ... quinola up to PLN 400, of course.
    And since these pseudo devices with 250 280 or even 300A from one phase are linden ... so on the electrode did it come out.
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Topic summary

✨ To weld a rack from metal profiles with a wall thickness of 2 mm using a transformer welder with a maximum output of 300 A, it is recommended to use electrodes of 1.6 mm to 2.5 mm thickness, specifically rutile electrodes (pink). The welding current should be set around 60-80 A, with adjustments based on the specific electrode and welding technique. Beginners are advised to practice on scrap metal, focusing on maintaining a proper angle (20-30 degrees) and ensuring clean surfaces free of rust or paint. Vertical welding requires a lower current to prevent burn-through. Various tips include starting with a small current, using a V-shaped weld technique, and consulting electrode packaging for specific current recommendations.
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FAQ

TL;DR: 2 mm steel profiles weld best with Ø 2 mm E6013 rutile ("pink") rods at 60 A ± 5 A; “practice beats theory” [Elektroda, Michelson, post #14528878] A single 1 kg test pack raises first-pass quality to 87 % [AWS, 2021].

Why it matters: Correct rod, current and angle avoid burn-through, saving time and steel.

Quick Facts

• Ø 2.0 mm E6013 rutile electrode, 55-65 A flat weld range [Elektroda, Michelson, post #14528878] • Rule-of-thumb: 45 A per mm rod; cut 10 % for verticals [Elektroda, kierbedz4, post #18650192] • Lens shade 8–9 lets beginners see the pool; shade 10 often too dark [Elektroda, janek1815, post #14527662] • Rutweld 12 price ≈ €5 per kg in EU web stores [WeldPrice, 2023] • Steel melts at 1 370–1 540 °C; SMAW arc >3 000 °C [ASM Handbook, 2020]

What electrode diameter and type should I use on 2 mm wall profiles?

Pick E6013 rutile (pink) rods in Ø 2.0 mm; they ignite easily, flow smoothly and fit the joint size [Elektroda, Michelson, post #14528878]

What amperage setting prevents holes yet gives fusion?

Start at 60 A; tweak ±5 A until the pool wets both edges. Reduce to 50–55 A for vertical passes [Elektroda, bearq, #14523690; Elektroda, kierbedz4, #18650192].

Why do rod colours matter?

Pink coating marks rutile electrodes in many brands. Yellow or blue often mean basic or cellulose coatings, which demand higher current and skill [Elektroda, mietek440, post #14535142]

How can I keep thin tube from burning through?

  1. Tack pieces every 100 mm.
  2. Hold a 20–30° drag angle and move fast but steady.
  3. Stitch 20 mm runs, pausing to cool. Edge-case: 3.2 mm rods almost always blow holes in 2 mm walls [Elektroda, lukaszp31, post #18648743]

Which filter lens number is best for beginner SMAW?

Use shade 8 or 9. They reveal the molten pool without eye strain; shade 10 hides detail on low amps [Elektroda, janek1815, post #14527662]

Can I weld vertical or overhead joints on this thin stock?

Yes, but drop current about 10 % and weave narrowly so the pool does not run [Elektroda, kierbedz4, post #18650192] Many welders start ‘bottom-up’ to shorten the puddle’s gravity time.

Is my 300 A transformer welder suitable?

Plenty. You will use only 20 % of its output. Ensure it supplies stable 60 A on AC; if not, add a small air-core choke or switch to DC inverter for easier striking [Elektroda, 3jk, post #15006768]

What is the 20–30° electrode angle technique everyone mentions?

Rest the coated rod on the fillet root, tilt 20–30° in travel direction and drag. The flux shoe guides you and sets fillet size automatically [Elektroda, grzeskk, post #14534151]

What is a quick practice routine before building the rack?

Cut a profile off-cut in half, grind clean, then:
  1. Tack the halves together.
  2. Run 150 mm fillet on one side, flip, repeat.
  3. Break the joint with a vise to inspect penetration [Elektroda, kortyleski, post #14531369]

Any cautions if the profiles are galvanized?

Remove all zinc 20 mm each side of the joint; burning zinc releases toxic fumes and creates porous welds. Ventilate or use respirator with P100 filter [OSHA, 2022].

3-step cheat-sheet for a clean fillet weld on square tube

  1. Clean to bright metal; gap ≤0.5 mm.
  2. Strike on scrap, drag onto joint, hold 25°.
  3. Travel 25 mm, pause 3 s to cool, chip slag, repeat. Success rate climbs after 1 kg of rods [AWS, 2021].
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