Welding Car Exhaust Using Transformer Welder: 2mm Rutile-Cellulose Electrodes for 2.5-2.6mm Wall

Hello


Tomorrow I'm going to do any exhaust welds on my car. I have an old exhaust cut into longer/shorter pieces and I want to make a kind of prototype for acid exhaust. At my disposal I have a transformer welder and a pack of electrodes. These will be my first welds, that's why I'm playing with an old steel exhaust and want to gain some experience in this matter. Will a 2mm rutile-cellulose electrode be good so as not to burn the exhaust wall, which is 2.5 - 2.6 mm? A man of the railings welded such electrodes for me and it turned out wonderfully for such equipment, but he works at the X-lat steelworks and he has a trade in his hands :)

Regards

barningu wrote:

A man of the railings welded such electrodes for me and it turned out wonderfully for such equipment, but he works at the X-lat steelworks and he has a trade in his hands

Give the guest a beer... he will "train" you a bit by the way ---> and you won't miss anything. That's my idea!

A plate with a 2mm electrode? Yes, a welder can do it. Someone who will have a welder in their hands for the first time will not.

Myk is that the guy has long since finished his work and I have no way to talk to him Robocop is probably a very pessimistic vision

Not pessimistic, just realistic. You will burn yourself, expose your eyes, waste time, material and money for electricity. Burnt sheets of the exhaust are sometimes difficult to weld with a migomaterm.

I don't see wasting time here, you have to start somewhere and learn from something, after all, I won't be holding this exhaust in my hand while welding Using the words 'old exhaust' I mean salvaged pipes without holes

barning, if you have 2.5 gauge pipes then a 1.6mm electrode would be more suitable. For this, make sure that your transformer has a welding current adjustment for this method, 20-30A per 1mm of electrode diameter is assumed, so set it to about 50A, so you can test with increased and decreased current Clean the welded parts so that there is clean metal within a radius of at least 15 mm from the weld pool. Although, I would recommend welding thicker details with the 2.5 mm electrode you already have and straight instead of these unfortunate pipes.
Apart from that:
I would not weld the acid exhaust with MMA, only TIG, possibly MIG ... So learning this method for this purpose has a poor justification ...

You will sleep without a problem, electrode 3.25, turn up the current to a minimum of 140A and hey with coke.

2mm is easy to fly with an electrode and 140a is too much 80-100

kapec22 wrote:

2mm is easy to fly with an electrode and 140a is too much 80-100

Free jokes.

robokop wrote:

Free jokes.

as well as the whole topic. I do not know how thin a sheet can be welded with a welder, a migomat yes, but a burner is better....

He will be able to weld with an electrode and acid. I always weld exhausts with an electrode, maybe it's easier with a jiffy, but if you don't have what you like, you like what you have. And in the 1980s, my father welded radiators pressed from 1.5 sheet metal with a 3.25 electrode with 140A current and the weld was nice and tight, and he had a guest who welded expansion tanks made of 0.8 sheet metal with an electrode.

bodzio18 - I know that it is possible to weld "acid" with a coated electrode, but the technology is moving forward ... You can drive a toddler but, Volkswagen is already in the driveway, nothing but start and go (so going back to the 80's). Welding of dynamically loaded stainless steel structures with a coated electrode is associated with a high risk of cracking caused mainly by hydrogen corrosion. In addition, the coated electrode causes greater welding deformations of the structure than TIG, due to the high linear welding energy - needed for full crystallization of the slag on the surface of the pool.
We have to distinguish steel grades and purpose here because it changes a lot. In the MMA method, you can lose some parameters (too much current) by increasing the welding speed, but these are not simple matters because the quality of the weld decreases ...

But a friend wants to weld the exhaust here, not the rotating elements in some machine. And I think it will be better to buy a few electrodes for acid welding than to buy a tig and the rest of the welding equipment for one-time use. And I will add that it is not always possible to weld everything with tig, we have a tig in the trowel and we use MMA to weld two elements of different thickness, one 2mm and the other 30mm.

Have you seen an exhaust made of 2 mm sheet metal?

I would also check the electrodes - it may turn out that this sheet will not be welded with an ordinary electrode (smear is possible but not welded)

So yes ... The exhaust is welded with a 'two' electrode, no holes, the weld may not be perfect, but for the first time it is solid and, above all, it is tight. Hula exhaust since yesterday - we'll see how long it lasts Current 55 A as suggested by the electrode packaging