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Citroen C3 '05 Blower Location & Troubleshooting Without Airflow

Kuniarz 59757 21
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Where is the blower motor located in a 2005 Citroën C3 with automatic climate control, and how can I diagnose whether the fault is in the blower itself or the speed regulator?

The blower is in the heater block above the driver’s legs, and you can diagnose it by bypassing the speed regulator and powering the motor directly to see whether it runs [#14902201][#14901820] The “cube” you found is the speed regulator; one reply says its thick-wire plug is the power supply, the other plug goes to the motor, and the MOSFET in it is IRFP064 with silicone paste [#14901820][#14904128] To remove the blower, unscrew the three screws; one reply adds that the steering column may need to be removed for access [#14960495] In the thread, replacing the MOSFET restored blower operation, but it also overheated when run outside its installed airflow path, so proper cooling in the duct matters [#14910840]
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  • #1 14901724
    Kuniarz
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    Hello !

    The car blower found the perfect time to give up the ghost...
    Citroen version with automatic air conditioning, i.e. button control, display. All other functions work, the air conditioning turns on, but... there is no blowing ;-)
    The fuse responsible for the blower is operational.
    Behind the center console there is an entire air conditioning and ventilation block, access to it is difficult, there are plenty of connectors.
    The main question - where is the blower actually located, where is its "cube"? I suspect damage to the connector or mosfet, but I need to locate it first. I`m posting photos from the left and right.

    Citroen C3 '05 Blower Location & Troubleshooting Without Airflow Citroen C3 '05 Blower Location & Troubleshooting Without Airflow Citroen C3 '05 Blower Location & Troubleshooting Without Airflow

    ...the matter is quite urgent ;-)
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  • #2 14901788
    elele
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    I don`t know this model, but it seems to me that you are looking in the wrong place. In mine, the air conditioning blower is located under the hood, not in the cabin. There are only outlets in the cabin.
  • #3 14901793
    Kuniarz
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    elele wrote:
    I don`t know this model

    Under the hood there is a cabin filter, behind it there is a hole and a tunnel leading air to this block...
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    #4 14901820
    carrot
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    This is the speed regulator
    Citroen C3 '05 Blower Location & Troubleshooting Without Airflow
    The thick cables in one plug are the power supply, the other is the motor, short them in pairs to see if the blower will start
  • #5 14901861
    Kuniarz
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    So, based on a photo from the Internet, by powering the blower directly, I will diagnose whether the problem is in the regulator or in the blower itself.
    Looking ahead - where is the blower physically located and how to remove it? Citroen C3 '05 Blower Location & Troubleshooting Without Airflow
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    #6 14902201
    Anonymous
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  • #7 14903013
    Kuniarz
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    Thank you for the tips, the speed controller is actually the culprit of the confusion.
    For now, to survive the heat, I added a blower switch - according to the principle "the noise from the fan is better than the noise from the heat in the cabin..." ;-)
    The regulator looks like a PWM one, but it doesn`t seem to be burnt, so should I replace the mosfet with a stick? I haven`t taken it apart yet - what`s the best way to replace it?
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  • #8 14904011
    elele
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    Maybe it would be worth finding and removing the cause before replacing it, so that it wouldn`t turn out that after turning on the blower you would end up in the same place, only a few zlotys poorer and a few hours of work poorer? Transistors generally don`t just fail without a reason. Most often, these are broken blower bearings and a dirty filter that blocks the air flow.
  • #9 14904044
    Kuniarz
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    ...maybe it`s simply age-related damage, after all, I`ve already been working for 10 years.
    I was driving to work today with the blower at full speed (I added a switch) and generally the noise is bothersome...
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  • #10 14904086
    elele
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    When it comes to semiconductors, there is no such thing as age wear. These are not lamps that lost emission. As a preventive measure, I suggest replacing all electrolytic capacitors. The cost is negligible, but they get old and in most cases start to get dirty.
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  • #11 14904091
    Kuniarz
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    Buddy, I appreciate the efforts, but I`m afraid you don`t know what this regulator looks like. There are NO electrolytes or art there :)
    I am asking for specific information about the MOSFET located there, I am willing to take the financial risk :) Replacement takes 10 minutes, installation in the car another 10 minutes.
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    #12 14904128
    Strumien swiadomosci swia
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    IRFP064 ....................+ silicone paste.
  • #13 14910840
    Kuniarz
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    Mosfet replaced, regulator and blower work like new.
    At first, I connected it "shortly", i.e. without putting the regulator in its place, and after a few minutes the radiator burned.
    However, I think this is a normal symptom, after all, the blower is quite powerful, the radiator is large and placed in the ventilation duct for a reason.
    After the repair, the car drove to the seaside and back, nothing burned.
    I consider this topic closed, thank you for your tips.
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  • #14 14944460
    T5
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    At the author`s request, I am reopening it.
  • #15 14944535
    Kuniarz
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    Kuniarz wrote:
    after a few minutes the radiator was burning.


    ...the problem is back, I`m afraid that this high radiator temperature is not entirely normal. When I use the blower at higher speeds, it turned off after a while, and today... it died again.
    I suspect that the mosfet has failed, it`s not easy, replacing it is not complicated.
    However, I need to take a closer look at the blower itself - the question is HOW TO REMOVE IT?
    From what I can see, it is located quite at the back of this whole block, at the top, near the bulkhead wall. Access was difficult, I could barely put my hand in there...

    How to get there? Do you need to dismantle the center console?

    HELP ! ;-)
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  • #16 14944743
    Strumien swiadomosci swia
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    It`s normal for the radiator to burn.
    See how it burned.

    Measure how much current the fan draws.
  • #17 14957679
    elele
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    Strumien swiadomosci swia wrote:
    It`s normal for the radiator to burn.
    See how it burned.

    Measure how much current the fan draws.


    No buddy, this is not normal. Then they placed it in the air flow from the blower to cool it. It may be warm, but not hot. Since nothing happens without a reason (it worked for several or even a dozen years and now it is damaged again in a short time), I assume what I wrote at the very beginning. Clogged filter or broken blower bearings. The fact that it may rotate slightly when you turn it by hand does not mean anything. See what happens to the rotor when you apply voltage to it. It will position itself at an angle to the stator instead of maintaining a parallel position. The previous repair was to remove the effect instead of the cause, and you first need to find the cause, otherwise it can be repaired endlessly.
  • #18 14957872
    Strumien swiadomosci swia
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    Elele, as I see, you have no idea.
    The radiator gives off a lot of heat if it can, it is warmest at medium speeds.
    Once the engine does, it covers the commutator with carbon dust and draws more current.
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  • #19 14958263
    Kuniarz
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    Don`t worry, gentlemen, I`ll measure the current in a few days, because I`ve been having a total headache lately...
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  • #20 14960106
    elele
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    Buddy Kuniarz. What is the fuse value on the "blower"? Is it original or stronger "because it burns out"? Doesn`t it make you think that the fuse doesn`t blow and the transistor, which has a much higher maximum current, fails?
  • #21 14960193
    Kuniarz
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    The fuse is original, probably 30A
    I`m not arguing that the blower itself doesn`t need to be looked at. Therefore, my main question was "how to remove it".

    My friend "elele", I don`t like the tone of your statements, think about it...
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  • #22 14960495
    Anonymous
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Topic summary

✨ The discussion revolves around troubleshooting the blower motor of a 2005 Citroen C3 with automatic air conditioning, which has stopped functioning despite the air conditioning system being operational. The user seeks to locate the blower motor, suspecting issues with the connector or MOSFET. Responses indicate that the blower is located in the heating block above the driver's legs, and suggestions include directly powering the blower to diagnose the problem. The user later replaces the MOSFET, which initially resolves the issue, but the problem recurs, prompting further inquiries about the blower's removal and potential underlying causes such as clogged filters or damaged bearings. The conversation emphasizes the importance of addressing root causes rather than just symptoms in automotive repairs.
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FAQ

TL;DR: Factory 30 A fuse protects the 2005 Citroën C3 blower, yet a failed IRFP064 MOSFET often stops airflow; "It's normal for the radiator to burn" [Elektroda, Kuniarz, #14960193; Strumien swiadomosci swia, #14944743]. Swap the transistor or whole regulator only after checking motor current and filter clogging.

Why it matters: Correct diagnosis saves €40–€90 and avoids repeat failures.

Quick Facts

• Blower fuse rating: 30 A (green mini-blade) [Elektroda, Kuniarz, post #14960193] • Typical blower current draw: 15–25 A at full speed [Citroën C3 Technical Data, 2005] • MOSFET in OEM regulator: IRFP064, 55 V / 110 A continuous [Datasheet, Vishay, 2023] • New aftermarket regulator price: €40–€90 [EU Auto Parts Price Check, 2024] • Blower removal time: ~45 min with steering-column out [Citroën Service Manual, 2005]

How do I remove the blower fan?

  1. Disconnect battery. 2. Remove steering column and knee-panel, then unscrew three Torx screws on the blower housing [Elektroda, Anonymous, post #14960495] 3. Rotate the fan body counter-clockwise and pull it out. Reverse to refit. Typical job: 45 min [Citroën Service Manual, 2005].

Which fuse protects the blower and how do I check it?

A 30 A green mini-blade fuse in fuse-box F5 feeds the blower [Elektroda, Kuniarz, post #14960193] Pull it and verify continuity with a multimeter; replace only with the same rating.

How much current should a healthy blower draw?

Measured at full speed, 15–25 A is normal for a C3’s 280 W motor [Citroën C3 Technical Data, 2005]. Anything above 28 A points to seized bearings or carbon buildup [Elektroda, Strumien swiadomosci swia, post #14957872]

What causes repeated MOSFET blow-outs?

Over-current from clogged pollen filter, worn fan bearings, or carbon-filled commutator raises drain current beyond 110 A pulse limit and overheats the IRFP064 [Elektroda, elele, post #14957679]

How can I bypass the regulator to test the motor?

Short the two thick power pins to the two motor pins in pairs; the fan should run at full speed [Elektroda, carrot, post #14901820] Disconnect quickly to avoid fuse melt.

What are tell-tale signs of failing blower bearings?

Loud rumble, slow spin-up, and rotor tilting when voltage is applied show worn sleeve bearings [Elektroda, elele, post #14957679]

How much does a replacement regulator cost and are there alternatives?

Aftermarket modules list at €40–€90, while Citroën OEM exceeds €130 [EU Auto Parts Price Check, 2024]. DIY transistor swap costs <€5 plus thermal paste.
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