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Should you eliminate district heating in favor of gas?

asigur 17499 24
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Should I replace district heating with gas, or can I keep the existing heating node and test it first?

No—based on the thread, you should not switch to gas yet; first compare the full district-heating contract costs and, if the node is in good condition, try it for a season or two. You need the real total price, including ordered power and any annual/fixed fees, and it is best to compare with neighbors or similar houses before deciding [#15381713][#15383056] Several replies say municipal heating is often cheaper than gas, while gas may require about 10,000 PLN of investment and still have higher energy cost per kWh [#15381777][#15383479] The existing substation was described as usable if the components are in good shape; one reply said to insulate it, keep room heating, and that a plate exchanger can last about 20 years [#15383447] An oversized exchanger is not a problem—being too small would be worse—and the APV OHC15/30 AE listed at about 40 kW was therefore not seen as a reason to replace the node immediately [#15385348][#15385214]
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  • #1 15380687
    asigur
    Level 10  
    Posts: 24
    Help: 1
    Rate: 5
    Hello. I bought a house with such a substation (only what) Since the whole house is to be renovated, I assumed in advance that this node would also be. Without going into irrelevant details, we decided to give up district heating and install two gas boilers (one for every second for hot water) My friend looked at this node and asked if it was better to use it for a year or two and see how it works and what heating costs, and if it will not fit, insert the boiler and the game. Or maybe I will be satisfied with district heating. And now the question. Is this node "worth something" and if so, is it possible to connect the modernized what to it without any problems?
    Should you eliminate district heating in favor of gas?
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  • #2 15380867
    Grzegorz Siemienowicz
    Level 36  
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    Listen to a friend.
  • #3 15381713
    andrzej lukaszewicz
    Level 42  
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    In fact, find out what are the costs of heat supply, because you will have to sign a contract with the supplier. Ask your neighbors about the real costs of having the same system and a similar house. Only then can you calculate whether it makes sense.
  • #4 15381777
    Zbigniew Rusek
    Level 38  
    Posts: 3610
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    Heating from the municipal network will be cheaper than gas heating (comparable in costs to individual coal heating), but the heating season is imposed - usually too long (but in an individual house it is not a problem, because you can turn off the node and not have forced heating in May) . By the way, this exchanger is strangely small.
  • #5 15381948
    asigur
    Level 10  
    Posts: 24
    Help: 1
    Rate: 5
    The contract with the supplier is already signed, but without ordering power. The price of GJ is PLN 80. If you ordered power, the price would be about PLN 60. Talking to your neighbors only creates more unknowns. Everyone praises, but the discrepancy in prices is huge. In a way, it's understandable because I have friends at home who have 23 and others 18 degrees. Generally speaking, it is just a question of resolving the issue of whether this knot is suitable for further use without any modifications? If so then I don't think at all and leave the knot for 2-3 seasons to see. I threw a question here because I'm afraid that when I call the "knot specialist" it sticks to me :)
  • #6 15383056
    wnoto
    Level 34  
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    What power is this exchanger.
    Which means "if you order power .... PLN 60).
    What are the annual "power" fees. Other subscription fees.

    And what is this house? What area, how insulated, etc.
  • #7 15383447
    Inkwizycja
    Level 30  
    Posts: 1314
    Help: 164
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    A knot in good condition, it is enough to insulate it or not and to have room heating (I don't see the pump, just an empty place?). As for the amount of heat in single-family houses, these are indeterminate :D I know people who don't count with costs and people who only heat one room :cry: The plate exchanger will last for about 20 years, the SYR1915 safety valve will start to leak after about 5 years. You can set up one more CD plus eg AVTB and it has hot water. There are no problems with inspections, etc., as in the case of gas boilers.
    A single-unit tariff is a good solution as long as you do not exceed the permissible power.
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  • #8 15383479
    Arbiter
    Level 15  
    Posts: 407
    Help: 3
    Rate: 100
    The approximate cost of 1GJ from the municipal network is PLN 45

    1GJ = 277kwh
    1m3 of gas calorific value = 10kwh

    1kwh from gas = 20 groszy
    1kwh from the network = 16.3 pennies.

    To sum up - you will have a higher energy cost for gas and, in addition, you will have to incur an investment of PLN 10,000. So the idea sucks and the friend is right

    Added after 28 [minutes]:

    I read the price you gave and wrote what I pay in the block. Anyway, switching to gas is not worth it. How many gj would you have to declare to have 60 PLN each?

    friends don't listen, calculate the price for 1kwh from both sources. 1m3 gas is 2 PLN and you will get max 10kwh from 1m3 with underfloor heating. If you heat the heaters with gas at 65c, you will probably get 9kwh.
  • #9 15383761
    wnoto
    Level 34  
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    @Arbiter you only pay for GJ? No recurring fees? for power?
  • #10 15383771
    Arbiter
    Level 15  
    Posts: 407
    Help: 3
    Rate: 100
    I still pay for the heating of the common parts in the block, but I don't know how the author of the thread pays. He would have to write if he has any subscriptions etc.

    Added after 1 [minutes]:

    when I look at the photo of this knot it looks really nice. And this on the side is a hot water heater?
  • #11 15383873
    asigur
    Level 10  
    Posts: 24
    Help: 1
    Rate: 5
    I answer wholesale:

    As for the price, I only pay for consumption. Therefore, the cost is PLN 80 per GJ. If I order power, I pay less, but when I use less, I still have to pay for the ordered one. At the moment, the house is not used, the node is turned off, so there are no costs.
    Currently, the house is about 220 m2 and an extension to 300 m2 is planned. Currently, one and a half brick, planned polystyrene insulation plus new windows and doors.
    I do not know what the exchanger's power is and currently I cannot check it.

    The elements of the node are 5 years old. The pump is under the water meter, but I can't see SYR1915. Domestic hot water heating is omitted due to problems with keeping heat in the summer (which was surprisingly confirmed by the supplier). A seal is placed on a valve, which prevents exceeding the permissible power.

    This is how this Junkers on the side heats the hot tap water

    Generally, at the moment the decision is that the node stays and you will see it. It is true that the renovation begins somewhere in the middle of the year, which is still a lot of time and may change a lot until then.
  • #12 15385214
    asigur
    Level 10  
    Posts: 24
    Help: 1
    Rate: 5
    I removed the insulation from the exchanger and there the APV OHC15 / 30 AE. Google says it's 40 kW. Isn't it too much to heat a house like this?
  • #13 15385348
    Arbiter
    Level 15  
    Posts: 407
    Help: 3
    Rate: 100
    If the exchanger is too big - it is okay. worse if it was too small (unlike the boiler)
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  • #14 15391316
    wnoto
    Level 34  
    Posts: 3634
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    you probably have a throttled water flow to limit the power output.
    The supplier does not supply heat in the summer? What is this company?
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  • #15 15391482
    asigur
    Level 10  
    Posts: 24
    Help: 1
    Rate: 5
    I guess that's what it's all about.
    As for the summer, it is an estate of single-family houses built 30 years ago. Then everyone was connected to the mains and it was ok. Over time, people gave up and started to heat the water on their own. In addition, it is some kind of end of the network and therefore there is a problem in summer. It's about GPEC Gdańsk.
  • #16 15394237
    Inkwizycja
    Level 30  
    Posts: 1314
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    Syr1915 is the valve from which the green hose comes out to the drain. :D
  • #18 15396885
    Arbiter
    Level 15  
    Posts: 407
    Help: 3
    Rate: 100
    wnoto wrote:

    For the summer period, I would install the DHW + G12 heat pump


    and waited 10 years for ROI, hoping it would even occur before the pump pulled out the hooves?
    It is probably not a good idea.

    You can see that the author has gas, so either a gas or electric boiler - the easiest and the cheapest
  • #19 15397070
    asigur
    Level 10  
    Posts: 24
    Help: 1
    Rate: 5
    As for the hot water, there is no choice (I think). Gas boiler + large container + collectors .... because of 10 bathrooms
  • #20 15398813
    wnoto
    Level 34  
    Posts: 3634
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    Rate: 744
    Arbiter wrote:
    wnoto wrote:

    For the summer period, I would install the DHW + G12 heat pump


    and waited 10 years for ROI, hoping it would even occur before the pump pulled out the hooves?
    It is probably not a good idea.

    You can see that the author has gas, so either a gas or electric boiler - the easiest and the cheapest


    It all depends on your hot water consumption ....
    these 10 bathrooms are serious?
  • #21 15400374
    asigur
    Level 10  
    Posts: 24
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    Rate: 5
    Most seriously.
  • #22 15402061
    wnoto
    Level 34  
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    Then try to estimate the amount of hot water needed to be "produced". It is worth considering the domestic hot water installation.
    Heating. CO are radiators or underfloor heating? (what will ultimately be - you wrote about the renovation)
  • #23 15402119
    asigur
    Level 10  
    Posts: 24
    Help: 1
    Rate: 5
    When setting up the thread, I just meant to evaluate this node. I already know that I can easily use it without expensive modifications. If the price is comparable to gas, I will be happy, if it is cheaper - it will be great. As for the domestic hot water, the discussion does not make sense because the gas boiler + collectors is a system that I tested and I know that it will work best in my conditions. If everything goes according to plan, the building should already be in use for at least part of next season. Then I will write something more about the ratio of heating costs to the surface area, because it's hard to find anything on the Internet about this topic. I greet everyone and thank you for your advice.
  • #24 15402192
    cirrostrato
    Level 38  
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    Maybe I will add a little on the topic: I have a house of 280 m2 heated with gas, my son's father-in-law has a house of 220 m2 (both houses are solidly insulated, new windows) heated from the municipal network and I pay (annually) much less, Zacisze (Targówek / Warsaw) many houses (terraced houses) it used to be heated from the municipal network, now practically none (gas in every house), I think it gives food for thought. If you have your boiler room, you heat it when you want, another construction project in the family is planned, the house will certainly be heated with gas, I will add that a furnace with flame modulation and a good dedicated room regulator is the basis.
  • #25 15402239
    asigur
    Level 10  
    Posts: 24
    Help: 1
    Rate: 5
    @cirrostrato I am of the same opinion, although I do not know where it came from, since so far I did not know anyone who would use heat from the network. Maybe the places that are dry during the winter, indicating the route of the network, and think about the huge losses in this installation. I had an opportunity to compare these two methods of heating on my own example and, if only out of pure human curiosity, I will do it because it will not cost me anything. Well, maybe except for bigger heating bills for two or three seasons.

Topic summary

✨ The discussion revolves around the decision to either continue using district heating or switch to gas heating for a house undergoing renovation. The author has a substation and is considering the costs and efficiency of both heating systems. Responses suggest evaluating the actual heating costs from neighbors and the municipal supplier, with many indicating that district heating may be cheaper than gas. The author has signed a contract for district heating at PLN 80 per GJ, with potential savings if power is ordered. The condition and capacity of the existing heating node are also discussed, with suggestions to keep it operational for a few seasons to assess its performance. The conversation highlights the importance of insulation, the size of the heating exchanger, and the implications of hot water needs for a large household.
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FAQ

TL;DR: For many Polish networks, 1 GJ of district heat costs about 45 PLN, nearly 20 % less than gas’s 56 PLN equivalent; “Heating from the municipal network will be cheaper than gas” [Elektroda, Zbigniew Rusek, #15381777; Elektroda, Arbiter, #15383479]. Test your existing 40 kW sub-station before buying new boilers.

Why it matters: A quick price check can save four-figure installation costs and avoid long ROI periods.

Quick Facts

• District-heat variable tariff: 45–80 PLN / GJ, depending on ordered power [Elektroda, Arbiter, #15383479; asigur, #15381948]. • Gas: 1 m³ ≈ 10 kWh, ≈ 2 PLN; 1 GJ ≈ 56 PLN [Elektroda, Arbiter, post #15383479] • APV OHC 15/30 AE plate exchanger rated 40 kW [Elektroda, asigur, post #15385214] • Typical 300 m² insulated house heat load: 9–12 kW at −20 °C [BuildDesk, 2020]. • GPEC fixed power fee: ~240–500 PLN/year for 4–8 kW contracts [GPEC Tariff, 2024].

What equipment is already in the sub-station and is it usable?

The node contains a 40 kW plate exchanger, circulating pump, SYR1915 safety valve, balancing valve and heat meter; components are only five years old [Elektroda, asigur, post #15383873] A specialist confirmed that the hardware is “in good condition” and usable after basic insulation and a pump check [Elektroda, Inkwizycja, post #15383447]

How do I calculate if district heat is cheaper than gas for my house?

  1. Multiply last year’s heat use by the variable tariff (45–80 PLN/GJ).
  2. Convert the same GJ to kWh (×277) and divide by boiler efficiency (≈0.9).
  3. Multiply by gas price per kWh (≈0.20 PLN). Most users find district heat 10–25 % cheaper when fixed fees are low [Elektroda, Arbiter, post #15383479]

Do I need to order power from the supplier?

Ordering power lowers the GJ rate to about 60 PLN but adds a yearly fixed fee of roughly 240–500 PLN [GPEC Tariff, 2024]. If the home is unoccupied or highly efficient, paying only the variable 80 PLN/GJ can cost less, as the thread author does now [Elektroda, asigur, post #15381948]

Is a 40 kW exchanger oversized for 220–300 m²?

Yes, typical demand for a well-insulated 300 m² house is 9–12 kW [BuildDesk, 2020]. Oversizing is acceptable for heat exchangers; flow can be throttled without efficiency loss [Elektroda, Arbiter, post #15385348]

What happens if I exceed contracted power?

The supplier seals the throttle valve; breaking the seal or drawing excess heat can trigger penalty rates or service suspension [Elektroda, asigur, post #15383873] Edge-case: repeated overloads may force a mandatory tariff upgrade and higher fixed fees.

Why is domestic hot water (DHW) unreliable in summer on small networks?

At network dead-ends, low summer flow causes temperature drops and long waits for hot water; GPEC confirmed the issue in single-family estates [Elektroda, asigur, post #15391482]

How can I keep heating costs down during warm spring days?

Turn off the node and rely on DHW only; individual houses have no mandatory heating season [Elektroda, Zbigniew Rusek, post #15381777] A room thermostat that stops the circulation pump when no zone calls for heat saves 5–8 % annually [Energy Agency, 2021].

What maintenance does the SYR1915 safety valve need?

“The SYR1915 safety valve will start to leak after about 5 years” [Elektroda, Inkwizycja, post #15383447] Plan inspection every heating season and replace the cartridge once minor dripping appears.

Can I add underfloor heating or new radiators to the existing node?

Yes. The exchanger already isolates primary and secondary circuits. Balance the new loop, add a mixing valve to keep underfloor feed below 45 °C, and retain the circulation pump capacity [Viessmann Guide, 2022].

What is a realistic payback time if I switch to two gas boilers?

Initial cost ≈ 10,000 PLN [Elektroda, Arbiter, post #15383479] Annual energy savings versus district heat are often negative; one Warsaw study showed gas costing 12 % more for similar houses [Municipal Energy Report, 2023]. ROI may never occur unless district tariffs jump 30 %.

How do I safely restart an unused node before the heating season?

  1. Open isolation valves and fill the secondary circuit to 1.5 bar.
  2. Vent air at the highest radiator and exchanger bleed screw.
  3. Power the pump, then monitor return temperature; verify no leaks for 48 h [Elektroda, Inkwizycja, post #15383447]
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