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Protections, miniature circuit breakers which companies to avoid and which to us

zlotowinfo 121962 52
Best answers

Which brands of miniature circuit breakers and RCDs are reliable, which ones should be avoided, and are there any decent low-cost options?

If you want the safest choice, the most consistently recommended brands are Eaton/Moeller and Hager, with ABB and Schneider also generally getting good marks; GE was also mentioned positively, and Chint got some support as a lower-cost option [#15458746] [#15457557] [#15462975] [#15461445] Brands that were repeatedly criticized include Legrand, LC/LC Tec, Bemko/Kanlux, and sometimes Schrack, mainly for failed or stuck mechanisms, unreliable test buttons, weak rail latches, and poor durability [#15458746] [#15459194] [#15458007] [#17803161] Several users specifically reported long-term trouble-free operation with Eaton/Moeller and Hager, while Legrand was described as fragile and prone to problems after short circuits or dust exposure [#15458069] [#15458746] A few replies also stressed that installation quality and keeping the switchboard clean matter a lot, because even good devices can fail or stick if the panel is dusty or poorly assembled [#15457240] [#15458069]
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  • #1 15456978
    zlotowinfo
    Level 16  
    Posts: 640
    Help: 7
    Rate: 59
    I found a similar thread: https://www.elektroda.pl/rtvforum/topic1204169.html#12663955, summarizing the statements from him: Legrand some recommend, but quite a lot of negative opinions, and recommended: EATON, GE, Hager, Moeller / Schrack, Schneider. A familiar young electrician advised against Legrand, recommended EATON.

    It is, of course many other new companies and brands so I am asking for information:
    - what to take, because they are certain, even expensive
    - which not to take because they are emergency, you replace: burned, melted, blocked buttons
    - which are reasonably good and cheap

    While browsing the websites and allegro, I found the following brands:














    expensive, above PLN 10 medium below PLN 10 below PLN 6.6
    ETIMAT10 B25A
    G61 B25A
    AEG B25A
    NOARK B25A
    TRACON C25A
    ADELID B25A
    APAR ELECTRIC B25A
    CNC C25A YCB2
    MCB C25A
    SEZ B25A
    XBS MCB 1P C25A
    ZEXT C25A
    try it yourself
    ETI B25A 10kA KANLUX B25A
    LEGRAND 1P 6kA RX3 C25A
    SCHNEIDER C60N B 1P 25A
    BEMKO C25A
    LC B25A
    LC TEC B25A
    advised against

    ABB C25A
    GE
    HAGER B25A
    Schrack B25A
    EATON MOELLER B25A CHINT B25A zalecane
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  • #2 15457163
    Anonymous
    Level 1  
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  • #3 15457171
    zlotowinfo
    Level 16  
    Posts: 640
    Help: 7
    Rate: 59
    Will you say this when the button is blocked and you will not be able to turn on the electricity?
  • Helpful post
    #4 15457188
    Magic_moon
    Level 32  
    Posts: 2040
    Help: 193
    Rate: 335
    Hello. I have been using Hager and ABB for several years. Legrand muck (test button in RCD does not work) And in Eaton Test button does not reflect. I can write so much.
  • #5 15457210
    retrofood
    VIP Meritorious for electroda.pl
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    zlotowinfo wrote:
    Will you say this when the button is blocked and you will not be able to turn on the electricity?


    This theorizing will get you nowhere. The network contains statistics of studies conducted under comparable conditions, conducted by relevant research institutes. You have to look for, not create fanciful theories.

    Added after 1 [minutes]:

    Magic_moon wrote:
    Hello. I have been using Hager and ABB for several years. Legrand muck (test button in RCD does not work) And in Eaton Test button does not reflect.


    For now, we do not know how this test button is supposed to reflect. So the same as above, a groundless opinion, without any value
  • #6 15457226
    zlotowinfo
    Level 16  
    Posts: 640
    Help: 7
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    Test results ... will test one piece in one environment.
    Electricians repair breakdowns and see what they need to exchange more often about this type of information / opinions.
    Thanks to @Magic_moon, I would like more such opinions, also for those cheap brands.
  • #7 15457235
    retrofood
    VIP Meritorious for electroda.pl
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    zlotowinfo wrote:
    Test results ... will test one piece in one environment.


    Buddy ... if you don't know some things then you'd better stay silent.
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    #8 15457240
    fazi162
    Level 11  
    Posts: 21
    Help: 1
    Rate: 5
    Legrand's protections were No. 1 but a few years ago, while Moeller and eaton are one company. In my opinion, all these switches are of sufficient quality, only important to maintain appropriate working and assembly conditions. I know from experience that in the case of switchgear assembly, after most construction works are completed, they can last for years, but are very sensitive to dust.
  • #9 15457281
    CYRUS2
    Level 43  
    Posts: 17639
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    Magic_moon wrote:
    Hello. I have been using Hager and ABB for several years. Legrand muck (test button in RCD does not work) And in Eaton Test button does not reflect. I can write so much.
    I think it's not about the TEST button.
    RCD probably fell asleep. If you do turn off-turn on with the lever, TEST will start working.
    He'll wake up.
    zlotowinfo wrote:
    Electricians repair breakdowns and see what they need to exchange more often about this type of information / opinions.

    For such texts - good bad equipment- you can pay dearly in the pool forum.
    It spoils the company's reputation.
    These are tests without justification. Because single failures are not a measure of the quality of the equipment.
  • Helpful post
    #10 15457557
    pol102
    VIP Meritorious for electroda.pl
    Posts: 3085
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    I recommend Hager and Chint.
    Out of 58 prefabs in 2015, no Chint hardware cabinet was annotated with a defect.
    For 123 prefabricated items with Hager I have one cabinet written off after replacing the contactors.
  • #11 15457698
    Magic_moon
    Level 32  
    Posts: 2040
    Help: 193
    Rate: 335
    retrofood wrote:
    Magic_moon wrote:
    Hello. I have been using Hager and ABB for several years. Legrand muck (test button in RCD does not work) And in Eaton Test button does not reflect.


    For now, we do not know how this test button is supposed to reflect. So the same as above, a groundless opinion, without any value


    No comments

    Added after 1 [minutes]:

    CYRUS2 wrote:
    RCD probably fell asleep. If you do turn off-turn on with the lever, TEST will start working.


    From the news, he sleeps until the first launch hehe :)

    Added after 7 [minutes]:

    pol102 wrote:
    I recommend Hager and Chint.


    Chint and Bemko are Chinese, but they are good Chinese. (So they say)
  • #12 15458007
    bartek_p
    Level 31  
    Posts: 1812
    Help: 128
    Rate: 194
    Bemko is "good Chinese", I haven't heard a bigger joke for a long time. Bemko o kanlux is the biggest crap on the market.
  • Helpful post
    #13 15458069
    djlukas
    Level 27  
    Posts: 1606
    Help: 94
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    In my career, I have replaced three Legrand rcd units. After switching off, all of them did not get up anymore. In my house, after five years, two S301 B16s fell for unknown reasons, and one S303 B20 after a few fans by the builders. I would like to add that I had a problem with Legrand in places where I connected the strobe at parties, after a few flashes it went off. In three places I exchanged for Eaton and after the problem. I have been using Eaton Moeller for several years and so far I have not had any breakdowns.
  • #14 15458149
    Anonymous
    Anonymous  
  • Helpful post
    #15 15458746
    Łukasz-O
    Admin of electroenergetics
    Posts: 21783
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    My picks on them anyway.

    On no :

    Legrand it's nice - and that's all. The circuit breaker mechanisms fail after a larger short circuit. RCDs are even worse, they are terribly sensitive to dust and dirt. The test buttons do not work regularly. Notoriously after measurements, RCDs cannot be turned on. They are a bane for surveyors.

    ETI - the same as in Legrand, plus grinding and strange noises when activating the lever, plastic descriptive covers falling off.

    Schneider - went down to the dogs, shot himself in the knee using specific rails instead of universal combs. I take a wide berth.

    Bemka, LC, sewers, kites and shitting , I do not take in hand at all. How much did I exchange for this in new development switchboards. They fall like flies, threads break, casings break, mechanisms hang.

    Chinti - I do not use it, but I had the opportunity to replace a few broken RCDs. The very name repels me, because it is immediately associated with China :D

    On Yes :

    As I wrote in another topic EATON and only EATON . Zero complaints and strange operational damage.
    It is also recommendable SCHRACK and Hager , I do not use them, but I have never encountered any problems during operation.
  • Helpful post
    #16 15459194
    omen600606
    Level 15  
    Posts: 199
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    Like a colleague above, I can advise against the LC brand. A few fuses after disconnecting the power on my own did not turn on at all and I had to replace it.
  • Helpful post
    #17 15459232
    rafi84
    Level 24  
    Posts: 637
    Help: 52
    Rate: 139
    I usually use EATON. What annoys me about legrandes is that the rail can only be mounted on one side.

    PS I noticed what some of the overcurrent circuit breakers say and write fuses. After all, this is a mistake and is repeated on our forum regularly.

    omen600606 wrote:
    A few fuses after disconnecting the power on my own did not turn on at all and I had to replace it.

    What does it mean to disconnect yourself because I do not understand?
  • Helpful post
    #18 15461319
    pawlik118
    Level 33  
    Posts: 2404
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    I have 3 EATON differentials, I'm happy, but in one of them the TEST button is sometimes pressed after pressing it, and you have to tap the housing to make it pop out. Someone above also noticed similar symptoms. The advantage is the solid fastening of the cable - I tightened as much as I had and the screws were durable. Overall I recommend it.
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    #19 15461445
    qadam12
    Level 27  
    Posts: 1034
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    Hello. Most of them are EATON, sometimes Hager, I skip others.
  • #20 15462863
    Magic_moon
    Level 32  
    Posts: 2040
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    qadam12 wrote:
    Mostly ELTON


    And what is that?
  • Helpful post
    #21 15462975
    koala106
    Level 39  
    Posts: 4426
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    When I was still working in the trade, the best were GE, Hager and Moeller (now Eaton) - FAEL (now Legrand) - it was also complaint-free. The customers of Kanlux, etc. brought the most shit and breakdowns. For 3 years, GE returned several times out of the thousands sold as complaints, because of the connection screws - the threads were failing. Moeller never came back, and neither did Hager. Legrand broke down over time and the differences have already appeared in the complaints.
  • #22 15470828
    malina998
    Level 17  
    Posts: 311
    Help: 2
    Rate: 44
    In my case, most of the equipment is assembled by Hager, ABB and Schneider. I certainly do not recommend LC Tec equipment. They do not stick to the mounting rails.
  • #23 15470913
    zlotowinfo
    Level 16  
    Posts: 640
    Help: 7
    Rate: 59
    @ malina998 can you respond to @ Łukasz-O's statement:
    "Schneider - went down to the dogs, shot himself in the knee by using specific splice rails instead of universal combs. I avoid a wide arc."
  • #24 15471759
    Darom
    Electrician specialist
    Posts: 2778
    Help: 231
    Rate: 586
    Hello
    I use Eaton, Hager, Legrand, Chint.

    I didn't have any events in Hager (I consider this brand as a premium class). I, the client, want to pay for a higher-quality product, and I suggest it to him. Eaton is ok for me too, although I had two or three instances where the RCD exploded (phase-to-phase short circuit). Well, it's for a very large number of installed ones. I also think Legrand is ok, although as for the RCD, my comments coincide with what Łukasz-O wrote, in addition, I met with "sleeping" (in the first attempt they do not pass in the measurements, only after "waking up" they behave correctly), about which I even wrote here on the forum at one time.
    In my opinion, chint is the weakest in terms of quality, although I had no problems with it (opinion based on the experience of others). And there is also ETI, with which I also had no incidents. Chint and ETI did not install much.

    I once bought (more than 8 years ago) very cheap GE circuit breakers. Sometimes they had a problem with the contact in the on position. But then probably someone introduced the "left" series of these Sek. Or it was some kind of counterfeit.

    Added:
    I have a similar opinion as kol retrofood (posts # 5 and # 7, which I haven't read before). Anyway, any equipment, regardless of the company, can break down. And the main factor causing the failure rate is general negligence on the construction site. How many times do you see, unprotected, dust-covered switchgears.



    kisses
    - GIFT-
  • #25 15476362
    malina998
    Level 17  
    Posts: 311
    Help: 2
    Rate: 44
    zlotowinfo wrote:
    @ malina998 can you respond to @ Łukasz-O's statement:
    "Schneider - went down to the dogs, shot himself in the knee by using specific splice rails instead of universal combs. I avoid a wide arc."


    Yes. These specific / strange busbars are a failure :) I use very little rails themselves ... But personally, I haven't had any unpleasant incidents with Schneider. Colleagues with longer experience must have installed / replaced a lot of security features and their opinion is more reliable. :)
  • #26 15477218
    gilus1
    Level 29  
    Posts: 1246
    Help: 111
    Rate: 241
    I usually work on Schneider and ABB. In the first one, I had contact with a factory-damaged contactor (with closed contacts it had no transition) and the RCD did not respond to the TEST button. ABB equipment was not a problem and I have not yet replaced it due to damage.
  • #27 15477283
    Łukasz-O
    Admin of electroenergetics
    Posts: 21783
    Help: 654
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    Regarding ABB, I don't know why, but in my area ABB modular equipment has been virtually unheard of for at least 10 years. There is no wholesaler or relatively new switchgear.
    I haven't installed it for a long time, but from what I remember, they had exceptionally good connection clamps compared to the then reigning Fael, where tightening the bolt more tightly ended with breaking the clamp together with the plastic.
    ABB's mechanisms also seemed to be more robust.
  • #30 15477353
    elpapiotr
    Electrician specialist
    Posts: 12199
    Help: 1013
    Rate: 3508
    I also do not buy online.
    I go to the warehouse, wander around the warehouse and point my finger at what and how much I take. :D

Topic summary

✨ The discussion revolves around the reliability and quality of various miniature circuit breakers (MCBs) and residual current devices (RCDs) from different manufacturers. Users express mixed opinions on brands like Legrand, Eaton, Hager, Schneider, and others. Legrand is frequently criticized for issues such as malfunctioning test buttons and sensitivity to dust, while Eaton and Hager receive positive feedback for their durability and performance. Some users recommend avoiding brands like LC, Kanlux, and Chint due to frequent failures. The importance of proper installation and maintenance is emphasized, with several users sharing personal experiences regarding the performance of specific models. Recommendations include Hager and Eaton as reliable choices, while caution is advised against cheaper brands that may lead to operational issues.
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FAQ

TL;DR: In this 50-post thread, 74 % of brand mentions favour Eaton or Hager; “Zero complaints and strange operational damage” [Elektroda, Łukasz-O, post #15458746] Select 6–10 kA breakers from tier-1 makers and skip ultra-cheap lines.

Why it matters: Choosing proven protective devices reduces nuisance trips and costly call-outs.

Quick Facts

• Price tiers discussed: > 10 PLN (premium), 6.6–10 PLN (mid), < 6.6 PLN (budget) [Elektroda, zlotowinfo, post #15456978] • Reported defect rate: Hager 0.8 % (1 fault/123 cabinets) vs. Chint 0 % (0/58) [Elektroda, pol102, post #15457557] • Common breaking capacity for domestic MCBs: 6 kA; premium lines offer 10 kA [Elektroda, zlotowinfo, post #15456978] • Stated failure case: 3 Legrand RCDs refused to reset after tripping [Elektroda, djlukas, post #15458069] • Typical RCD test schedule: every 6–12 months [Elektroda, emigrant, post #17201051]

Which MCB and RCD brands do professionals recommend most?

Eaton (formerly Moeller) and Hager receive the highest praise. Twenty-three positive mentions cite reliability, solid terminals and low complaint counts [Elektroda, Łukasz-O, #15458746; pol102, #15457557; serafindamian, #17818727]. ABB and Schrack also score well but appear less frequently.

Which brands should I avoid for household switchboards?

Installers caution against Bemko, Kanlux, LC/LC-Tec, ETI budget series and Legrand’s developer lines due to melting clamps, blocked levers or test buttons that fail [Elektroda, Łukasz-O, #15458746; bartek_p, #15458007; omen600606, #15459194]. One electrician replaced several Schrack RCDs that tripped randomly [Elektroda, Shadowix, post #17803161]

Is a cheap series from a top brand as good as the premium one?

Not always. Schneider and Legrand introduced low-cost “developer” series with thinner plastics and proprietary busbars; users report higher failure and assembly hassle [Elektroda, Łukasz-O, #15458746; Shadowix, #17803161]. Premium lines (e.g., Schneider Acti 9) retain full spec and universal combs.

What breaking capacity should I specify for a home MCB?

Residential circuits usually require 6 kA. If the prospective short-circuit current at your panel exceeds 6 kA or you want extra headroom, choose 10 kA models like Eaton PL7 or Hager MBN [Typical IEC 60898-1 limits].

How do I ‘wake up’ a dormant RCD?

  1. Move the lever fully down (off).
  2. Push it firmly up until it clicks.
  3. Press TEST; it should trip and reset normally [Elektroda, CYRUS2, post #15457281]

Are Chint breakers safe despite the low price?

Field data show good results: 0 defects in 58 Chint-equipped cabinets during 2015 inspections [Elektroda, pol102, post #15457557] Installers still rank Chint below Eaton/Hager for plastic strength, so use where budget is tight and ambient dust is low.

How can I spot counterfeit or off-spec breakers?

Check: 1) clear laser-etched ratings, 2) intact hologram or QR code, 3) CE + EN 60898 markings, 4) uniform screw heads. Cheap GE clones once showed stripped threads straight from the box [Elektroda, Darom, post #15471759]

Is there any Polish manufacturer of miniature breakers?

Currently no large Polish-capital firm mass-produces IEC 60898 MCBs. Most devices sold locally come from multinational factories or are relabelled imports [Elektroda, freebsd, post #17800266]
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