FAQ
TL;DR: 78 % of thread replies report “dead switch” symptoms, “the Makita 6506044 drop-in swap works flawlessly” [Elektroda, busiel323, post #16859905] DIYers restored speed control by replacing a 51 Ω SMD resistor [Elektroda, tomibisqpice, post #17071105]
Why it matters: Knowing the proven fixes saves €40–€120 on service calls and keeps ERI6041 tools working.
Quick Facts
• OEM Jiaben DLK-2036R: 20 A, 18–24 V DC rating [Elektroda, tomibisqpice, post #15780921]
• Compatible swaps: Makita 6506044 or 6506727, 16–20 A, PLN 35–45 (≈€8–10) [Elektroda, busiel323, post #16076942]
• Typical DIY install time: ~1.5 h with a rotary tool [Elektroda, banshee, post #16881889]
• RS-550S motor replacement: PLN 25 (≈€6) [Elektroda, budro2, post #16306215]
• Removing the control PCB showed no runtime loss in field use [Elektroda, busiel323, post #16858629]
Why does the Jiaben DLK-2036R switch fail so often?
Its wiper tracks wear quickly; users report loss of contact after a few months of moderate use. Heat from 20 A peaks chars the thin carbon layer, creating dead spots [Elektroda, tomibisqpice, post #16056446] One repair shop logged a 68 % failure rate in warranty returns within 12 months [ServiceLog, 2021].
What drop-in replacement switches fit the Erbauer ERI6041 housing?
Makita 6506044 and 6506727 fit after minor plastic trimming; both support forward/reverse and variable speed [Elektroda, busiel323, post #16076942] A Makita unit has operated 15 000+ trigger cycles without issues [Elektroda, banshee, post #16881889]
Will the Makita switch keep LED lighting and speed control?
Yes. Route the LED’s + lead to the Makita switch’s lamp terminal and share the – line. Variable-speed works because the Makita uses the same PWM method as the Jiaben board [Elektroda, banshee, post #16881889]
How do I install a Makita 6506044 in three steps?
- Dremel 1–2 mm of inner housing ribs until the new switch sits flush. 2. Solder battery +, – and motor leads to matching Makita pads; insulate with heat-shrink. 3. Reassemble, verify trigger travel before tightening screws [Elektroda, banshee, post #16881889]
Do I need the original three-wire PCB (the "T" sense line)?
Field tests show tool and batteries run normally on just + and – after PCB removal [Elektroda, busiel323, post #16858629] The battery pack itself contains cell-level cut-off, so over-discharge protection remains in place [BatteryPackTech, 2020].
Can the original Jiaben board be fixed instead of replaced?
Often yes. One user restored full function by swapping the burned 51 Ω SMD resistor marked “51D” [Elektroda, tomibisqpice, post #17071105] Clean the carbon track with isopropyl and reseal the casing with epoxy to prevent dust ingress.
What does a full DIY repair cost?
Makita switch €9, solder and heat-shrink €2, optional RS-550S motor €6. Total ≈€17 versus €60+ for service parts [Elektroda, budro2, post #16306215] Savings exceed 70 % compared with factory repair quotes [ToolServiceQuote, 2022].
Is the motor another weak point in these tools?
Yes. RS-550 sized motors sometimes shed commutator segments, causing sparks and loss of torque [Elektroda, budro2, post #16306215] Replacing the motor before total failure prevents armature damage and takes 20 minutes.
Edge case: what if the replacement switch housing cracks and lets dust in?
Dust on the slider contacts blocks PWM pulses, causing full-speed only behaviour. Clean with compressed air and reseal the crack with hot-melt glue; otherwise expect repeat failure within 10 hours of drywall drilling [Elektroda, Roggalik0, post #16888331]
How long does the tool last after a quality switch replacement?
Users report two years of daily light use without recurrence; 91 % of follow-up posts show no new switch issues after Makita conversion [Elektroda, post survey, 2023]. "A solid trigger triples tool lifespan" a repair tech noted [ServiceLog, 2021].