Intermittent Functioning of Kenwood KM 287 Prospero: Arm Maneuvers Required for Operation

Hello! Can anyone tell me where this three-wire sensor should be?

Found on Yout ..., It's almost here in the 1st photo, just inside- in the gasket under the planetary gear. Thanks.

Again, mine refused to obey.
This time I had more time and I hope it will last longer.



The processor did not have full power and taking into account that it "probably" measured the power level, it would not start.



I changed C1 (it was 330nF) to 470nF and the voltage on the zener diode returned to normal, according to the diagram.
In addition, I replaced the electrolytes had half the value. Instead of 220uF it is only 100uF.

Hello,
I had a problem - sometimes the robot turned on, sometimes not, most often it started after a long stop, not necessarily after work (as if the reason was heating).
I replaced C1 - 330nF, C9 - 100uF, C3 - 100uF, C2 - 220uF
it did not work,
I replaced the NT75 2C S 0.41 5 relay, unfortunately there was no such, I used RM85-2011-35-1024 (supposedly the same)
after the change, it started, but it started being turned off - the potentiometer is set to '0', i.e. it gives power, although it should not.
responds correctly to speed changes.
on the processor power supply equal to 5.00V
What could be wrong?

Maybe check the pin11 output and pin6 transistor etc.

Hello. I also "fight" with KM28 which does not turn on. I checked all the limit switches, potentiometer etc. I bought a new module with electronics and nothing like that. However, I noticed some absurdity in the ATS137 hall sensor system. This sensor in the arm lowered position, i.e. working position, has a short-circuited output with the arm lifting and lowering limit switch. I thought that someone had repaired it before and made a mistake, but now I look at this diagram that it should be like that. He doesn't understand any of this. I have no idea what can be done here. The tacho generator produces an alternating voltage when it is turned manually. I do not replace the HALL SENSOR because it is short-circuited during operation, specifically the collector with the emitter of the output transistor. It only opens when the arm is raised. I changed the contacts of the lowering lifting limit switch from NC to NO but it also did not change anything. Rel 1 relay on the board does not turn on after turning the knob.
Anyone have some ideas yet /

Hello,

from what I remember in this position, Hall should be open



only after you put it on


it should be compact.

The KM287 Hall is used to identify the assumption of a meat grinder.

Thanks to Dasej for the explanation, and here my problem was that I did not know the manual or had these attachments from the customer.
On the other hand, the problem was that one wire in the circuit of the adapters presence switches was broken in the insulation by a sharp cut with the casing.

Hello, I have a Kenwood KHC29A, I can't regulate the speed, it works at 100% from the very beginning, does anyone know what's going on? Regards

DzieX wrote:

Everything is for sale along with new electronics. .

Do you still have this control module for sale?

Good morning!
My KM28 was switching on when it wanted to, there was no rule. To start with, I replaced electrolytes, checked the wires, the switches and nothing.
On the advice of Col. dasej I measured the voltage on diode D4-it was undervoltage, replaced capacitor C1 and again the voltage is 5 volts and the robot starts when it wants. I locked the limiters, turned it on with the knob and started moving the wires coming to the board. It turned out that in the two-pin connector ( to the right of capacitor C3) the contact had deformed and the connection was when it wanted to. I disassembled the connector, tightened up the sheet metal and the unit works.
By the way, the whole robot vibrates quite a lot during operation and the method of connection through these delicate connectors is not the happiest solution.
Best regards and I wish you all a peaceful Christmas , and in the New Year 1925 good health and patience when repairing such malicious failures.

I have no voltage on capacitor C3. What should the voltage be there? The relay does not start - capacitors changed. On the other two capacitors, the voltage is 22.5V and 4.9V

And how does the zener diode stand in parallel with C3?

.

Diode D9 is in parallel with C3(no voltage on diode), diode D1 in series (voltage 11.1V). Resistors R9 and R10 have a resistance of 2.16 Kohm each. Could it be the fault that this PIC is not supplying power to C3 ? - it looks to me like the circuit is not working

I replaced electrolytes and c1 I noticed that when I unplug the Hall sensor it is 5v and when I plug it in it is 4.65v I desoldered the ats 137 circuit itself from this board with cables and it is 5v but the robot still will not start, will the robot start without this sensor ? Could this circuit itself be faulty ? I have no voltage on c3. The relay does not switch on either.

I have a strong conviction that if there is no voltage on C3, but there is 5V on the legs of the PIC, it is the fault of a faulty program chip.