Intermittent Functioning of Kenwood KM 287 Prospero: Arm Maneuvers Required for Operation

Hello
For several days now, this planetary robot has gone crazy. It can only operate when the following actions are performed: the movable arm is tilted back to the maximum and locked in this position, then unlocked and moved down again to the working position - then the agitator and blender rotor are working, while the blender rotor is randomly turned on. The robot works nicely with a smooth change of speed until it goes to position 0 - from then on it becomes dead and the described maneuvers with the arm are necessary to make it work again.
Can someone write me what happened to him ???
Thanks in advance for any information.

Was it so from the beginning or did it happen recently?

It is possible that this robot has some safety function that when you turn off the rotation completely, the robot determines that the agitator will be raised and will not let it turn on again.

Such information should be included in the instruction manual, if not for warranty.

This strange behavior has been a matter of the last few days. Previously, it was possible to stop the robot while working, add products or new fruit and continue working - now meatball. I suspect it is crazy some protection that is reset by fully lifting the operating arm. I wanted to avoid all this confusion with warranty shipping because maybe repairing this defect is trivial. Thanks for the answer.

Rather, you shouldn't rummage yourself, it's better, unfortunately, to give it back under the warranty.

Unless you call the hotline first, you have contact here:
http://www.kenwoodworld.com/pl-pl/obsuga-klienta/kontakt

Sorry for digging up the old thread, but was this problem solved? My kenwood blender has the same symptoms

I managed to find out the reasons. And the Youtube video helped me with that. I can't give the link because the form is blocking me.
You have to type ja youtube "Comment réparer un robot Kenwood sans se ruiner"
I did like a guest in a movie. I opened the black tin and moved the contactor inside it. The mixer is still working.

Hello.
The theme may be old, but my Kenwood KM 28 also worked from case to case. I changed the capacities in the power system. Due to the fact that the robot does not have a power switch, the power supply system works constantly and the capacities lose their parameters. The diagram below is a bit of a different KM226 model, but mostly matches my model.

The main reason for starting the repair was the lack of operation of the meat grinder. Replacing the capacity did not help. The meat mincer has a small magnet inserted into which the AST137 field sensor responds. Applying a neodymium magnet for 30 minutes solved the problem with the meat grinder.

Hell, it doesn't help me. When switched on, the contactor clicks for a moment and returns to its previous position. Anyone have any idea?

And applying a magnet does not help?

Is it about this item?

I don't remember exactly anymore. But the sensor is there.

Well, that's where the sensor is. I don't have a neodymium magnet to do the same as you do. I am much weaker. I glued it on and left it overnight.

Unfortunately, it didn't help.

@DzieX Check (under voltage) where the + - comes to the sensor and which leg reacts to the change in the magnetic field.
I think the defect is very simple. Some sensor or CPU power.
The power supply of the processor is balanced and when one of the capacities loses its capacity, the processor will stop working properly.

Try to blindly replace the electrolytes in the power supply.

This sensor is inexpensive. And I checked the rest of the sensors. Along with the one in the base. They're ok. I'll check these tensions. If they are ok, I will replace the capacitors

Unfortunately, I still hang out with this robot, mostly because I didn't have time to sit down for it. I replaced the sensor that we wrote about, but it did not help. I took pictures of the capacitance of the capacitors. To how many to increase the capacity? Originally, two have 100?F / 63V (the diagram shows 220 ???) and one 220?F / 16V

One of them was glued to the resistors (?). It doesn't have to be this way, does it?

I replaced the capacitors with the factory ones, but it did not help.

It ended up replacing the electronics. The robot works, however, very strange. I think it spins slower. In addition, it sparkles strongly in the higher gears. It manifests itself with such a characteristic sound in the video:

So what is the final answer, because this is how it started for me, or has already stopped working completely

I do not know. I gave up. I sent back a new engine and it turned out to be burnt. They gave the money back. The robot goes to pieces. Everything is for sale along with new electronics. I will never buy a robot from this company again and I will buy small appliances for the kitchen independent.

Let me put it this way, you were just unlucky.

@dasej It's not bad luck, now the juveniles are doing such crap.

@DzieX I have the same with Zelmer, after I was treated by the service after less than a year of using the vacuum cleaner, on which there was a huge sticker "4 years warranty", which turned out to be a fiction about the Star Trek format.
(the sliding pipe broke, the cable reel / I received information from the service that these elements are not covered by the warranty)
I will never buy anything from this company again.

For me, the problem turned out to be the relay that was hanging. Manual unlocking of the relay helped later, only its replacement.

@ atomic99

Such trash is produced?
Or maybe it's a desire for more profit. And the customer approach.
They got so lazy that instead of repairing the equipment, it ends up in the garbage and slammed into the store again and again.
And looking for cheaper and cheaper items has led to the situation that the producers have adapted to the customer's requirements.
Cheap for 2 years and then new.

And it is so with everything. Mercedes go to the site before driving 50,000 km. Every 30 years ago there was
unthinkable. A friend bought a Samsung washing machine with a drying function for PLN 6,000, which started to rust after 9 months.
The Indian steel giant has introduced such trash to the market, but his steel is cheaper.

In electronics, ceramic capacitors get short-circuited after passing the furnace during device production or after a short one
time since production.
The sum of all factors means that we only have trash on the market.
Reputable producers have adapted to the market needs and have learned to produce properly, only the low price counts.

Therefore, I maintain my opinion that @ Woly72 he was unlucky. Mine has been fixed and works for now.

It wasn't the cheapest robot. I am going to buy the cheapest one, so as not to regret later that it fell shortly after the warranty. I tried to repair and I am just trying to get my money back by selling the rest.

Today a friend brought me the KM280 model (the board looks identical), the symptoms are the same for the author of the topic.

The equipment works, the main culprit capacitor C1 - 0.33?F 275V, I also replaced C5 - 0.15?F 280V and electrolytes as a preventive measure.

And today I received the "corpse" KM28.
Electronics without power, capacitors replaced and revived, but no speed control possible.
After switching on, it accelerates to the maximum and slows down (the relay releases) and again and again and again.
The potentiometer was checked, I even had a new PCB with electronics for a replacement, also the same, no control, in the end I think I found a damaged choke in the tachometer (two purple cables) on the four-pin plug.

So to sum it up, I didn't think Kenwood was doing such crap right now.


Choke 4.3mH 0.5W somehow strangely unattainable, replaced with 4.7mh, everything ok, you can finally put it together.

stefcio wrote:

And today I received the "corpse" KM28.
Electronics without power, capacitors replaced and revived, but no speed control possible.
After switching on, it accelerates to the maximum and slows down (the relay releases) and again and again and again.
The potentiometer was checked, I even had a new PCB with electronics for a replacement, also the same, no control, in the end I think I found a damaged choke in the tachometer (two purple cables) on the four-pin plug.

So to sum it up, I didn't think Kenwood was doing such crap right now.

Kenwood is probably just car amplifiers have been solid old ones ..

It is true that I fought the Kenwood KM28, but they are confusingly similar. Initially, I replaced the 507n-2cc-fv relay. to 41.52.9.024.0010 FINDER, but to no avail. Then I replaced the capacity of C1 with something closer to the rated capacity. According to the tester for PLN 40, the capacity of the C1 was about 200nf instead of the required 330nf. After replacing the capacity, it works for now, we'll see how long.

For me, KM287 after firing, the revs immediately about 90% max and turns off after a while. What should I follow? One month after wuala warranty. My wife's friend got horny for one for Christmas, I just managed to dissuade.

In the north I see a regulator and a speed sensor, a penny thing. For this, the power module is over 200